UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
Well-protected climbing on pleasing holds, and understandably popular. Climb the crack, passing an overlap early on, to a finish up the final groove (a bit loose) at the left edge of the roof. © Rockfax

FA. Colin Dickinson 1972. FFA. Dave Knighton 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Northern Rock's Little Gems , UMC ticklist for the turbo punter (Trad) , Western Grit E1/E2s

Feedback

User Date Notes
planetmarshall 30 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Large pinch just as the good crack runs out is loose. Left as is to let others judge for themselves but I down climbed from here.
βeta?
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βeta: Large pinch just as the good crack runs out is loose. Left as is to let others judge for themselves but I down climbed from here.
fraserstubbs10 14 Oct, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Crux pinch is loose, last flake before top moves is also super loose, caution needed
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crux pinch is loose, last flake before top moves is also super loose, caution needed
fraserstubbs10 14 Oct, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Broken hold just below the roof, previously a crimp now a fairly stout flat rail, not sure if it affects the grade as it's between all the hard climbing in my opinion
Show beta
βeta: Broken hold just below the roof, previously a crimp now a fairly stout flat rail, not sure if it affects the grade as it's between all the hard climbing in my opinion
Shaun climbs 92 25 Jul, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Seconded this route previously and had no issues. Head fell off today but managed to downclimb and not take in gear get back in the zone and sent it great route
βeta?
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βeta: Seconded this route previously and had no issues. Head fell off today but managed to downclimb and not take in gear get back in the zone and sent it great route
C Rettiw 26 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose rock below and above top break...! Some of those blocks below the scoop are very hollow sounding and below that rock moves at the touch... that\'s not even to mention the choss in the scoop! Shame, as otherwise pleasant.
βeta?
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βeta: Some loose rock below and above top break...! Some of those blocks below the scoop are very hollow sounding and below that rock moves at the touch... that's not even to mention the choss in the scoop! Shame, as otherwise pleasant.
mattdarli92 14 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Wobbly block sounds like it's been wobbly for at least 5 years. Save your worry for the grime grabbing, mud munching top out!
βeta?
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βeta: Wobbly block sounds like it's been wobbly for at least 5 years. Save your worry for the grime grabbing, mud munching top out!
donkarlo 3 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I would like to claim E2 because that would mean I lead my first HVS, E1 and E2 in a day but it definitely didn't feel it. Superb route though.
βeta?
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βeta: I would like to claim E2 because that would mean I lead my first HVS, E1 and E2 in a day but it definitely didn't feel it. Superb route though.
Dan-gerMouse 21 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not an E2, but nice idea for a tick list i guess! E1, 5b - great route, technical and requires bit of foot manouvery! get on it!
βeta?
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βeta: Not an E2, but nice idea for a tick list i guess! E1, 5b - great route, technical and requires bit of foot manouvery! get on it!
r0b 10 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I don't like loose holds so did the route without using the big rattly one - don't think it really increased the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I don't like loose holds so did the route without using the big rattly one - don't think it really increased the grade.

Logged Ascents

802 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Anglezarke Quarry

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 87
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 137
Votes cast 130
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Deceptive Bends

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Warton Main Quarry)

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