Restricted Access
Climbers using the Left Wall area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 24 June to 20 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
5 August 2022: the nest previously reported in the route Samarkand is now empty. Please always exercise caution around bird nests, spring-early summer is the key season.
Tawny owls were previously noted as nesting on Falkland Walls but this seems to be an older note. Tawny owls have been known to attack people climbing near their nest. Background note: owls typically lay mid-late March with an incubation of around 30 days and 5 weeks to fledge.
Rockfax Description
The line is clear enough, though the moves are less so, and the top overhang is distinctly disposable. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
(September 2022) - a large block from just underneath the overlap was removed. It is recommended to avoid this route until the rest is removed.
FA. Mark Liptrot 1988.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Col Kingshott | 6 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Took a big block out from beneath the overhang on 3/9/22, some loose stuff remains……probably all of it. So beware. If I get back soon, I’ll remove the remaining bits and update on here. It spooked me, so I backed off. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Took a big block out from beneath the overhang on 3/9/22, some loose stuff remains……probably all of it. So beware. If I get back soon, I’ll remove the remaining bits and update on here. It spooked me, so I backed off. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Anglezarke Quarry
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Terminal Trajectory
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Warton Main Quarry)