65m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good, tough route with a tricky second pitch. Start below a groove, just right of the large overhang at 15m.
1) 4b, 15m. Weave up the lower wall to the large ledge.
2) 5b, 15m. Climb the small groove above and right of the ledge and make a hard move to gain the main groove on the left. Unicorn Direct (HVS) gains the same point by beefy jamming up the crack directly up and left of the belay. Pass the trees to a good belay below an overhang.
3) 4b, 28m. Follow the groove on the right, then traverse right to a tiny ledge on the exposed rib. Follow the rib to the top. © Rockfax

P R J Harding, P R Hodgkinson, M G Hughes (1 pt aid) 17/Apr/1949

Ticklists

"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 5 May AltLd RP
neilmackie 5 May AltLd O/S
with Ali graves
with Ali graves
Hidden 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd
TimvanRiessen 10 Jun, 2018 2nd β
with ebutton
with ebutton
ebutton 10 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Thought we were doing overhanging chimney. Moved out of the corner at the end of P2 on to the overlap. The last pitch was probably the top 4a pitch of the E3. Adventurous!
Thought we were doing overhanging chimney. Moved out of the corner at the end of P2 on to the overlap. The last pitch was probably the top 4a pitch of the E3. Adventurous!
AMorris 20 May, 2018 2nd O/S Turbo shuffle into 3 meters of tricky climbing after the P2 belay, followed by further shuffling. Ambushed by holly on P2.
with Ian
Turbo shuffle into 3 meters of tricky climbing after the P2 belay, followed by further shuffling. Ambushed by holly on P2.
with Ian
ianstevens 20 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Davy Gunn ??, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Greg Cunningham 24 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with neil mcadie
with neil mcadie
Neil McA 24 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S P2 is tough, you probably would not complain too much at E1 5c. P3 is run out and could feel like E1 5a
P2 is tough, you probably would not complain too much at E1 5c. P3 is run out and could feel like E1 5a
mattx1123 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S led p2 - stiff polished moves on not much gear (common theme!) but it went. horrific hollybush encounter at the belay!
led p2 - stiff polished moves on not much gear (common theme!) but it went. horrific hollybush encounter at the belay!
Hidden 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 17 May, 2017 2nd O/S
James Worthington 17 May, 2017 Lead I was going to link the first two pitches but in my attempt to avoid the wet vegetation in the corner after the tree I missed the belay and ended up committed to climbing the third pitch as well. Just about made it to a passable belay! Only ten pieces of gear placed in nearly 60m of climbing, exciting!
I was going to link the first two pitches but in my attempt to avoid the wet vegetation in the corner after the tree I missed the belay and ended up committed to climbing the third pitch as well. Just about made it to a passable belay! Only ten pieces of gear placed in nearly 60m of climbing, exciting!
Mark Fairhurst 9 May, 2017 AltLd
with Rob Harden
with Rob Harden
Hoyes 22 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Good climbing. The groove on the second pitch is hard. More like 5c than 5b!
Good climbing. The groove on the second pitch is hard. More like 5c than 5b!
Hidden 22 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 22 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S P2 Crux probably 5c, I led p3 which might have been the 5a top pitch of the direct route. Not a particularly good route - others here are much better.
P2 Crux probably 5c, I led p3 which might have been the 5a top pitch of the direct route. Not a particularly good route - others here are much better.
Hidden 9 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 9 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Led second pitch. The 5b crux groove took a bit of figuring. The rest of the route was VS.
with Agnes
Led second pitch. The 5b crux groove took a bit of figuring. The rest of the route was VS.
with Agnes
Sarah Roscoe 30 Jul, 2016 2nd
Matt Harmon 30 Jul, 2016 Lead dog very awkward moves at crux on P2 with poor gear meant i rested while figuring out the move. not one i'm keen to go back to do clean anytime soon
very awkward moves at crux on P2 with poor gear meant i rested while figuring out the move. not one i'm keen to go back to do clean anytime soon
wi11 17 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
John Bunney 17 Jul, 2016 2nd Well that was not one of my better evenings. That second pitch is nails, Will had to lead it after my attempt. I fell seconding it, then got it. Won't be rushing back for the lead on this'un anytime soon.
with wi11
Well that was not one of my better evenings. That second pitch is nails, Will had to lead it after my attempt. I fell seconding it, then got it. Won't be rushing back for the lead on this'un anytime soon.
with wi11
tom.e 17 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with AndyWigley, Claire
with AndyWigley, Claire
AndyWigley 17 Jul, 2016 2nd
with tom.e
with tom.e
Hidden 10 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 31 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
dewiturton 29 May, 2016 AltLd
with keitht
with keitht
keitht 29 May, 2016 AltLd
Dan Vaj 16 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Wow.... Tried the direct.... Hard second pitch
with khalidq
Wow.... Tried the direct.... Hard second pitch
with khalidq
khalidq 16 May, 2016 AltLd dog
with Dan Vaj
with Dan Vaj
clams ?May, 2016 AltLd Led P1 and 2 in one. Good gear before crux if you've got the right pieces
with Toby
Led P1 and 2 in one. Good gear before crux if you've got the right pieces
with Toby
David Kay 12 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Sammi Rogers
with Sammi Rogers
Hidden 12 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 4 Oct, 2015 AltLd rpt Finally worked out how to do the crux on the second pitch. Yes, it does involve the brick-sized pinch grip half way across the edge of the traverse above the belay. Very polished up to the crux, less so afterwards - I think this says it all. Bring loppers/chainsaw/napalm to cut through the encroaching gorse and holly to get to the belay below the overhang. The top pitch is hard for 4b, but very pleasant. Chris led p1 and p3 - I think he placed about 5 bits of gear in total. These are not well protected pitches.
with Chris Gardener
Finally worked out how to do the crux on the second pitch. Yes, it does involve the brick-sized pinch grip half way across the edge of the traverse above the belay. Very polished up to the crux, less so afterwards - I think this says it all. Bring loppers/chainsaw/napalm to cut through the encroaching gorse and holly to get to the belay below the overhang. The top pitch is hard for 4b, but very pleasant. Chris led p1 and p3 - I think he placed about 5 bits of gear in total. These are not well protected pitches.
with Chris Gardener
BushwackerBritz 27 Sep, 2015 Lead dnf Shutdown by the crux on pitch 2 after seconding Pete up SS Special - E2 beforehand.
with Peter Sterling
Shutdown by the crux on pitch 2 after seconding Pete up SS Special - E2 beforehand.
with Peter Sterling
JamesWilliams 11 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S bold first pitch which i tried to link into the crux which i backed off with the belayer being so far away. bren wizzed up the tricky grove which has some tricky bridging and sloping holds. final pitch was a bit of an adventure with no obvious line so followed the path of least resistance and think I ended up at the top of Elidor (E1) which had some pretty marginal gear and rock not a pitch to fall off and certainly hard for the grade.
with Bren
bold first pitch which i tried to link into the crux which i backed off with the belayer being so far away. bren wizzed up the tricky grove which has some tricky bridging and sloping holds. final pitch was a bit of an adventure with no obvious line so followed the path of least resistance and think I ended up at the top of Elidor (E1) which had some pretty marginal gear and rock not a pitch to fall off and certainly hard for the grade.
with Bren
cornishbekx 18 Jul, 2015 2nd dog
Hidden 15 Jun, 2015 AltLd dog
jimmatthews 15 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 7 Jun, 2015 AltLd dnf Attempted to lead P2 but backed-off. Nasty crux with poor gear, sloping holds and almost inevitable contact with the belayer or the belay ledge if you slip - not my idea of fun. I lodged one half-way decent DMM grey wallnut into the crack below the crux but could find no other gear worth falling on. Small tri-cams might work.
with Chris Brooks
Attempted to lead P2 but backed-off. Nasty crux with poor gear, sloping holds and almost inevitable contact with the belayer or the belay ledge if you slip - not my idea of fun. I lodged one half-way decent DMM grey wallnut into the crack below the crux but could find no other gear worth falling on. Small tri-cams might work.
with Chris Brooks
jezb1 4 Jun, 2015 AltLd Crux moves good. The rest is ok, gear a bit crap and so is the rock in places.
Crux moves good. The rest is ok, gear a bit crap and so is the rock in places.
Andy Clarke 9 Apr, 2015 AltLd Led crux P2, but had to ground (& grind!) up it. Fell off first go, failing to bridge properly. Fortunately Johnny absorbed most of impact, when my arse landed on his head. Glad I had small cams for protection. Found solution both technical & strenuous: tough for 5b. But a good route, which left me limping & suitably chastened.
with Johnny
Led crux P2, but had to ground (& grind!) up it. Fell off first go, failing to bridge properly. Fortunately Johnny absorbed most of impact, when my arse landed on his head. Glad I had small cams for protection. Found solution both technical & strenuous: tough for 5b. But a good route, which left me limping & suitably chastened.
with Johnny
Si ??, 2015 -
benkelsey 13 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S p2. awkward move on pitch 2 with less than inspiring gear for HVS 5b. cool top pitch
with rory wadsworth
p2. awkward move on pitch 2 with less than inspiring gear for HVS 5b. cool top pitch
with rory wadsworth
ruairidhwad ?Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Lead P1,3 P2 crux
with Ben Kelsey
Lead P1,3 P2 crux
with Ben Kelsey
KristianBirchall 22 Sep, 2014 Lead dnf Claire led pitch 1 but then abandoned after being stuck for ages behind slow party in front
with Claire Chadderton
Claire led pitch 1 but then abandoned after being stuck for ages behind slow party in front
with Claire Chadderton
freemanTom 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Did first bold pitch before Tris struggled with the 2nd pitch. Handed me the reigns after small fall onto cluster of shit gear. I only kept going cos I didn't fancy the down climb. Awkward crux. Didn't get to savour final pitch as rain had started so rushed it.
with Tristian
Did first bold pitch before Tris struggled with the 2nd pitch. Handed me the reigns after small fall onto cluster of shit gear. I only kept going cos I didn't fancy the down climb. Awkward crux. Didn't get to savour final pitch as rain had started so rushed it.
with Tristian
Hidden 1 Jul, 2014 AltLd dnf
Andrew Lester 10 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
highclimber 12 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Harder than expected. top pitch was awesome.
Harder than expected. top pitch was awesome.
Neil ??, 2014 Lead O/S
joedoherty 30 Nov, 2013 AltLd
dobby 200 30 Nov, 2013 AltLd RP I led P1 and 3. Seconding pitch 2 with a heavy bag and a too tight toprope made it so hard! After falling off a couple of times, i made it through
I led P1 and 3. Seconding pitch 2 with a heavy bag and a too tight toprope made it so hard! After falling off a couple of times, i made it through
metal arms 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S 2nd pitch
2nd pitch
Siobhan McGowan 27 Jul, 2013 2nd dnf Abandoned after lead fell and his gear failed.
Abandoned after lead fell and his gear failed.
CrispsSmiths 27 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with cem
with cem
cem 27 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led p 1 & then kept going up the crux second pitch to make one long pitch
with CrispsSmiths, Pete Atkinson
Led p 1 & then kept going up the crux second pitch to make one long pitch
with CrispsSmiths, Pete Atkinson
partz 25 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Did pitch 2+3 together by accident. One move wonder really
with Halla Parkin
Did pitch 2+3 together by accident. One move wonder really
with Halla Parkin
Nick Biven ??, 2013 -
Dave Rumney 8 Jul, 2012 Lead Hard for 5b. Not over impressed with the protection on P2 either or maybe I was having a bad day.
with Tanya Milner
Hard for 5b. Not over impressed with the protection on P2 either or maybe I was having a bad day.
with Tanya Milner
Hidden ?Mar, 2012 -
Lawrie Brand 17 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Joe
with Joe
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd dnf
pete johnson 4 Jun, 2011 -
with Lun
with Lun
Swotson 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Ian Athroll
with Ian Athroll
Ed Griffin 30 Jun, 2010 2nd dog
with A123
with A123
Hidden 30 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
HannahFrancis 19 Jun, 2010 2nd
Duncan Campbell 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S p1+p3. 1 hard, thrutchy move on 2nd pitch..good effort mav!
with HIGHTOWER, Hannah
p1+p3. 1 hard, thrutchy move on 2nd pitch..good effort mav!
with HIGHTOWER, Hannah
HIGHTOWER 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 12 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Christian Minett
with Christian Minett
Ken Applegate 15 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2. Crux is just off the belay. I spent as much time gardening the second belay as I could!
Led pitch 2. Crux is just off the belay. I spent as much time gardening the second belay as I could!
Ken Taylor ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Seymore Butt ??, 2009 AltLd
jchenoweth 18 Oct, 2008 Lead RP
with Charlie Jeynes and Andy Miller
with Charlie Jeynes and Andy Miller
barni 24 Jun, 2008 AltLd P2
with Paul James
P2
with Paul James
mje1398 31 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
with John M
with John M
pauldrew 5 May, 2008 2nd
with Kevin Sales
with Kevin Sales
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd
Matt Vigg ??, 2008 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2007 AltLd
richardr ?Apr, 2007 -
adrianj 3 Jun, 2006 AltLd
with TimmyG
with TimmyG
Hidden 3 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
mattyork2 15 Aug, 2005 AltLd
with moony
with moony
Stone Muppet ??, 2005 -
Hidden 2 May, 2004 AltLd O/S
SteveM 2 May, 2004 AltLd
with AS
with AS
jparry75 ?May, 2004 Lead
with m.evans
with m.evans
michael burrows 20 Jun, 2003 2nd
with mark ryan
with mark ryan
Rock Fairy ??, 2000 2nd
with Carl
with Carl
Different Steve 12 Jul, 1999 AltLd O/S Led P2 crux
with Rupert Holbrook & Christina Ennis
Led P2 crux
with Rupert Holbrook & Christina Ennis
Chris Reid 3 Jun, 1999 Lead O/S
Mick King 27 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
with Carl Gilbert LC&CC
with Carl Gilbert LC&CC
Marti999 ??, 1994 AltLd
with kev
with kev
WB ??, 1992 -
Hidden 20 Oct, 1990 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 1990 -
Hidden 22 Jul, 1987 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 1987 Lead dnf
Hidden 21 Jun, 1987 Lead O/S
michael burrows 14 Jun, 1987 AltLd O/S
with pete roberts
with pete roberts
Hammy 10 Mar, 1984 Lead
with Les Witt
with Les Witt
Ian Clare ??, 1984 -
Robmwatt ??, 1983 -
Mark Kemball 18 Oct, 1981 -
RichardMc 1 Aug, 1981 Lead
with Dave Langmead
with Dave Langmead
Hidden 30 May, 1981 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Falko ??, 1980 Lead O/S
with Chris Plant
with Chris Plant
Rob Davies 5 Apr, 1977 2nd Very cold - we probably used the aid peg
with Simon Wheeler (CUMC), Rob Banks (CUMC)
Very cold - we probably used the aid peg
with Simon Wheeler (CUMC), Rob Banks (CUMC)
beaumap ?Jun, 1976 AltLd
with Bernie Green
with Bernie Green
Ian Jones ??, 1976 AltLd O/S Desperate.
with Chris Newton
Desperate.
with Chris Newton
Martin Bennett 27 Oct, 1975 -
with JD
with JD
Bolt Phobia 26 Oct, 1975 Lead O/S
with Howard
with Howard
mikej 10 Sep, 1975 AltLd
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
kjacks ??, 1975 Lead Relatively easy except for pitch 2 which went with a peg at the time - still about HVS 5a
with Ken Lax
Relatively easy except for pitch 2 which went with a peg at the time - still about HVS 5a
with Ken Lax
granitbahn ??, 1974 AltLd
rogerskews 30 Jun, 1973 -
with Keith Jenkins
with Keith Jenkins
Tom V ??, 1972 -
RichardMc 19 Aug, 1969 AltLd
with Derek Bull
with Derek Bull
tapley 19 Jul, 1969 Lead
with Alex George
with Alex George
Hidden 17 Jun, 1967 Lead
eroica64 8 Apr, 1966 2nd
with Clive Powell
with Clive Powell
uphillnow ??, 1964 AltLd Line runners on spikes with double steel krabs to stop them lifting.Done for second time about 2005
with Van Dave
Line runners on spikes with double steel krabs to stop them lifting.Done for second time about 2005
with Van Dave
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 18
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set