65m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good, tough route with a tricky second pitch. Start below a groove, just right of the large overhang at 15m.
1) 4b, 15m. Weave up the lower wall to the large ledge.
2) 5b, 15m. Climb the small groove above and right of the ledge and make a hard move to gain the main groove on the left. Unicorn Direct (HVS) gains the same point by beefy jamming up the crack directly up and left of the belay. Pass the trees to a good belay below an overhang.
3) 4b, 28m. Follow the groove on the right, then traverse right to a tiny ledge on the exposed rib. Follow the rib to the top. © Rockfax

P R J Harding, P R Hodgkinson, M G Hughes (1 pt aid) 17/Apr/1949

Ticklists: "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST.

Greg Cunningham 24/Jul Lead O/S
with neil mcadie
Neil McA 24/Jul 2nd O/S

P2 is tough, you probably would not complain too much at E1 5c. P3 is run out and could feel like E1 5a

with Greg Cunningham
mattx1123 17/Jul AltLd O/S

led p2 - stiff polished moves on not much gear (common theme!) but it went. horrific hollybush encounter at the belay!

Hidden 17/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul AltLd
Ewan Russell 17/May 2nd O/S
with James Worthington
James Worthington 17/May Lead

I was going to link the first two pitches but in my attempt to avoid the wet vegetation in the corner after the tree I missed the belay and ended up committed to climbing the third pitch as well. Just about made it to a passable belay! Only ten pieces of gear placed in nearly 60m of climbing, exciting!

with Ewan
Mark Fairhurst 09/May AltLd
with Rob Harden
Hoyes 22/Apr AltLd O/S

Good climbing. The groove on the second pitch is hard. More like 5c than 5b!

Hidden 22/Apr AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 22/Apr AltLd O/S

P2 Crux probably 5c, I led p3 which might have been the 5a top pitch of the direct route. Not a particularly good route - others here are much better.

Hidden 09/Apr AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 09/Apr AltLd O/S

Led second pitch. The 5b crux groove took a bit of figuring. The rest of the route was VS.

with Agnes
Sarah Roscoe 30/Jul/16 2nd
Matt Harmon 30/Jul/16 Lead dog

very awkward moves at crux on P2 with poor gear meant i rested while figuring out the move. not one i'm keen to go back to do clean anytime soon

wi11 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
John Bunney 17/Jul/16 2nd

Well that was not one of my better evenings. That second pitch is nails, Will had to lead it after my attempt. I fell seconding it, then got it. Won't be rushing back for the lead on this'un anytime soon.

with wi11
tom.e 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Andy Wigley, Claire
Hidden 10/Jun/16 AltLd
Hidden 31/May/16 AltLd O/S
dewiturton 29/May/16 AltLd
with keitht
keitht 29/May/16 AltLd
Dan Vaj 16/May/16 AltLd O/S

Wow.... Tried the direct.... Hard second pitch

with Khalid
khalidq 16/May/16 AltLd dog
clams ?/May/16 AltLd

Led P1 and 2 in one. Good gear before crux if you've got the right pieces

with Toby
David Kay 12/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
with Sammi Rogers
Hidden 12/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 04/Oct/15 AltLd rpt

Finally worked out how to do the crux on the second pitch. Yes, it does involve the brick-sized pinch grip half way across the edge of the traverse above the belay. Very polished up to the crux, less so afterwards - I think this says it all. Bring loppers/chainsaw/napalm to cut through the encroaching gorse and holly to get to the belay below the overhang. The top pitch is hard for 4b, but very pleasant. Chris led p1 and p3 - I think he placed about 5 bits of gear in total. These are not well protected pitches.

with Chris Gardener
JamesWilliams 11/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

bold first pitch which i tried to link into the crux which i backed off with the belayer being so far away. bren wizzed up the tricky grove which has some tricky bridging and sloping holds. final pitch was a bit of an adventure with no obvious line so followed the path of least resistance and think I ended up at the top of Elidor (E1) which had some pretty marginal gear and rock not a pitch to fall off and certainly hard for the grade.

with Bren
cornishbekx 18/Jul/15 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Jun/15 AltLd dog
jimmatthews 15/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 07/Jun/15 AltLd dnf

Attempted to lead P2 but backed-off. Nasty crux with poor gear, sloping holds and almost inevitable contact with the belayer or the belay ledge if you slip - not my idea of fun. I lodged one half-way decent DMM grey wallnut into the crack below the crux but could find no other gear worth falling on. Small tri-cams might work.

with Chris Brooks
jezb1 04/Jun/15 AltLd

Crux moves good. The rest is ok, gear a bit crap and so is the rock in places.

Andy Clarke 09/Apr/15 AltLd

Led crux P2, but had to ground (& grind!) up it. Fell off first go, failing to bridge properly. Fortunately Johnny absorbed most of impact, when my arse landed on his head. Glad I had small cams for protection. Found solution both technical & strenuous: tough for 5b. But a good route, which left me limping & suitably chastened.

with Johnny
Si ??/2015 -
benkelsey 13/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

p2. awkward move on pitch 2 with less than inspiring gear for HVS 5b. cool top pitch

with rory wadsworth
ruairidhwad ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Lead P1,3 P2 crux

with Ben Kelsey
freemanTom 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Did first bold pitch before Tris struggled with the 2nd pitch. Handed me the reigns after small fall onto cluster of shit gear. I only kept going cos I didn't fancy the down climb. Awkward crux. Didn't get to savour final pitch as rain had started so rushed it.

with Tristian
Hidden 01/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
climbtim 01/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
Andrew Lester 10/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
highclimber 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Harder than expected. top pitch was awesome.

Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
joedoherty 30/Nov/13 AltLd
dobby 200 30/Nov/13 AltLd RP

I led P1 and 3. Seconding pitch 2 with a heavy bag and a too tight toprope made it so hard! After falling off a couple of times, i made it through

metal arms 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

Siobhan McGowan 27/Jul/13 2nd dnf

Abandoned after lead fell and his gear failed.

CrispsSmiths 27/Jul/13 AltLd
with cem
cem 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led p 1 & then kept going up the crux second pitch to make one long pitch

with Chris Smith, Pete Atkinson
partz 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Did pitch 2+3 together by accident. One move wonder really

with Halla Parkin
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Dave Rumney 08/Jul/12 Lead

Hard for 5b. Not over impressed with the protection on P2 either or maybe I was having a bad day.

with Tanya Milner
Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
Lawrie Brand 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Joe
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Ed Griffin 30/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Alaric
Alaric 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Quite chuffed with this. But closest I have come to falling off for a while. I contemplated jumping away out from the groove, but wasn't sure the gear would hold, so self preservation kicked in and I found some extra tenacity from somewhere. Extended the traverse on pitch 3 to add extra excitement, and came up the far side of the final rib which is steeper.

with Ed
Tightsgirl 19/Jun/10 2nd
Duncan Campbell 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

p1+p3. 1 hard, thrutchy move on 2nd pitch..good effort mav!

with Mav, Hannah
HIGHTOWER 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Christian Minett
Ken Applegate 15/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Crux is just off the belay. I spent as much time gardening the second belay as I could!

Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
jchenoweth 18/Oct/08 Lead RP
with Charlie Jeynes and Andy Miller
barni 24/Jun/08 AltLd


with Paul James
mje1398 31/May/08 AltLd O/S
with John M
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd
richardr ?/Apr/07 -
adrianj 03/Jun/06 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
mattyork2 15/Aug/05 AltLd
with moony
Stone Muppet ??/2005 -
Hidden 02/May/04 AltLd O/S
SteveM 02/May/04 AltLd
with AS
jparry75 ?/May/04 Lead
with m.evans
michael burrows 20/Jun/03 2nd
with mark ryan
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
with Carl
Different Steve 12/Jul/99 AltLd O/S

Led P2 crux

with Rupert Holbrook & Christina Ennis
Chris Reid 03/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/1994 AltLd
with kev
WB ??/1992 -
Hidden 20/Oct/90 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden 22/Jul/87 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/87 Lead dnf
michael burrows 14/Jun/87 AltLd O/S
with pete roberts
Hammy 10/Mar/84 Lead
with Les Witt
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Robmwatt ??/1983 -
Mark Kemball 18/Oct/81 -
RichardMc 01/Aug/81 Lead
with Dave Langmead
Hidden 30/May/81 Lead
Falko ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Chris Plant
Rob Davies 05/Apr/77 2nd

Very cold - we probably used the aid peg

with Simon Wheeler (CUMC), Rob Banks (CUMC)
beaumap ?/Jun/76 AltLd
with Bernie Green
Ian Jones ??/1976 AltLd O/S


with Chris Newton
Martin Bennett 27/Oct/75 -
with JD
Bolt Phobia 26/Oct/75 Lead O/S
with Howard
mikej 10/Sep/75 AltLd
with Mike Byles
kjacks ??/1975 Lead

Relatively easy except for pitch 2 which went with a peg at the time - still about HVS 5a

with Ken Lax
granitbahn ??/1974 AltLd
rogerskews 30/Jun/73 -
with Keith Jenkins
Tom V ??/1972 -
RichardMc 19/Aug/69 AltLd
with Derek Bull
tapley 19/Jul/69 Lead
with Alex George
Hidden 17/Jun/67 Lead
eroica64 08/Apr/66 2nd
with Clive Powell
uphillnow ??/1964 AltLd

Line runners on spikes with double steel krabs to stop them lifting.Done for second time about 2005

with Van Dave
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 18
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set