75m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An exciting route with memorable moments. Start to the left of a low overhang just before the base of the crag starts to rise up rightwards.
1) 4c, 27m. Tackle the wall left of the large overhang for 6m, then traverse right to a ledge above it. Continue straight up to a stance below the chockstone of Overhanging Chimney (VS).
2) 5b, 21m. Start up the groove and gain the left arete just below the overlap. Head left, passing the overlap at its narrowest point. Commit to getting over the steepest ground and step left, above a groove leads back right to a ledge. Move right to a corner and a belay.
3) 4c, 27m. Traverse up and right across the wall to gain the final exposed rib. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST.

Scraggadoo 28/Aug AltLd

Led P1 & P3

JendeHoxar 23/Aug 2nd
with Flavio
Flavio 23/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 01/Aug AltLd O/S
JackSewell1997 24/Jul Lead O/S
with Jack M
Jack Manfredi 24/Jul -
with Jack Sewell
Hidden 06/Jul AltLd
joe.91 03/Jun AltLd O/S

Obvious nut my arse, felt a little bold.

Hidden 11/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/May AltLd
Hoyes 22/Apr AltLd O/S

A good and exciting climb. Led the second pitch. Fairly easy for 5b but protection is a bit spaced.

Hidden 22/Apr AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 22/Apr AltLd O/S

Led p3, awesome route.

arose 19/Apr AltLd
Mackinclimb 19/Apr AltLd O/S
Cam Bevan ??/2017 AltLd
SimonWooden 22/Oct/16 Lead
with michael woolcott, Mark Lewis
pauline_chester 17/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Neilaw 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Brannock 11/Sep/16 AltLd rpt

No recollection for doing this before, led p2 ran together into p3, bit goey at the crux.

Martin Haworth 11/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
jackob 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S
jackbrooks 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S
therat 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Lead all 3 pitches.

cem 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Led all 3 pitches.

georgenvk 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with cem
jon22 30/Jul/16 AltLd
with Dave Garry
Lenny 21/Jul/16 AltLd β
with Steve
steveboote 21/Jul/16 AltLd dog

Fell off onto rock1 over overlap, Leon led through,confused by some descriptions ' crossing overlap at lowest point' may mean should have been further left but there is a peg higher up if you take overlap above the arête

with Leon Winchester
emgroves 18/Jul/16 AltLd
frejashannon 17/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Jenn_Stretton 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch. Second pitch was a bit pinchy and pumpy!

DaveThexton 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/16 -
Hidden 23/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/16 AltLd
Pete Rigby 31/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Kelli Roberts, Jim Tan
kelliroberts3 31/May/16 AltLd
with Jim Tan, Peter Rigby
Hidden 31/May/16 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 23/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Jon Gupta
pete johnson 13/May/16 AltLd rpt
pauldrew 13/May/16 AltLd
Butel 22/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with Harriet Ridley, John Bunney
John Bunney 22/Apr/16 AltLd
with Butel
Dan Vaj 20/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
Pete_Frost 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Led p2. P1 is delightful, not much gear but great incut holds which are solid, even if they look a bit funky. P2 is good fun but the gear above the overlap isn't great and a steady head is needed, even if the climbing isn't hard. P3 goes up very impressive wall and on to a lovely arête at a really amenable standard. I'd recommend this route to a friend.

with Will Treasure, Chris Gardener
Hidden 02/Oct/15 Lead O/S
static266 02/Oct/15 2nd dnf
Hidden 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
redshapedfriday 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
mapperley samurai 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P1.

Happy Wanderer 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and p3

with Mike D
MD 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led p2, crux pitch quite bold.

with Jo
Hidden 07/Sep/15 Lead O/S
SAF 07/Sep/15 2nd

After battling through cobwebs and past spiders, I got stung by a bee on the first beelay ledge.... good route though!!!

with Phil
Hidden 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S
soph 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tony Stone
JoeCoxson 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant position. Messed up the ropework so I had loads of drag through the crux, which made it all the more difficult.

Stuart William 05/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

P1 + 3 - Me P2 - Stu. First half of the route very wet, fortunately crux dry. Hard climbing was short-lived but the seepage and loose rock in places made the easier sections quite interesting.

with Stu (WMC)
jcw ??/2015 -
wazzalad20 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Class route. Loved every pitch, very spaced gear on crux pitch though

ryan_d 18/Sep/14 2nd dog
with Warren Adjeriou
wi11 01/Sep/14 AltLd O/S


with Paul Swail, Tamsin
Hidden 24/Aug/14 AltLd dnf
Brannock 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2, thought the gear was ok, not as serious as I was expecting from the guidebook description. Pitch 3 is easy but really good.

Jim Slater 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/14 AltLd
frost 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Nicole Almond, D Almond
Dave Almond 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Hot and sunny.

Nicole Almond 29/Jun/14 2nd

Hot, sunny, midge free conditions just topped off the route. Super climb. Really enjoyed the 5b pitch as the climbing involves interesting moves. Great rock to climb on as well.

Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 23/Jun/14 AltLd

led main pitch, missed a peg apparently, worth taking some small stuff

with FatRob
Pete Wimbush 14/Jun/14 AltLd

Lead pitch 1 +3

with Chris Hindley
ColinD 13/Jun/14 AltLd

P2. Great.

wynaptomos 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tim newton 11/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
with mike grant
Dan724 01/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Better than it looked. Good second pitch.

with George Ullrich
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Simon Leigh Smith
mike mo ??/2014 -
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
Sardien 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2, really enjoyed it!

with Megan Beaumont
ollyroberts 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1+3

with Luis Parsons
Hidden 23/Aug/13 Lead
davewsargent 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

pitch 1 wish id done 3 too

jshields 10/Aug/13 AltLd
Will Sheaff 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Led p1,3 (4c,4c)

with Will Harris
Alex.M-M. 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led; p. 1/2.

with Vasco Bull
Richard Horn 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
La Mont 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

lead 2 & 3, work ok in one.

Hardcore Pat 25/May/13 Solo O/S
with Sir William of pettitsmith
Olli-C 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Hall
Marti999 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
climbergg 01/Jun/12 AltLd
Tim M 01/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Emma
Hidden 22/May/12 Lead O/S
geoff b 22/May/12 AltLd
The Bad Cough 05/May/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

P2. Brilliant route!

with S.Harris
SamuelHarris 27/Mar/12 AltLd
efrance24234 26/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
pie_eater_pete 07/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with ben smedley
bsmedz 07/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with Peter Sargent
Falko 28/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Not really - we did the Overganging Chimney variation at VS 4c.

with Steve M
Ewan Russell 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch+Halla did shadow wall(crux) afterwards

with Halla
Coel Hellier 25/Jul/11 AltLd
with Ben Tibbetts
Em66 09/Jul/11 AltLd
with Mat
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with terry
tim newton 04/May/11 AltLd O/S
with andy stotesbury
al123 18/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
djromberg ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Duncan Campbell 13/Oct/10 AltLd rpt
with Jimmy G
farmus21 13/Oct/10 AltLd

p2... really nice. Blind-ish move over the 'lap but steady.

with Duncan
jgrigson 29/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 04/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Abi Chard 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Tightsgirl 19/Jun/10 2nd
Duncan Campbell 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

led crux pitch, good value for E1, the gear is weird and there ain't much of it..moves are fairly straightforward though there aren't many sinker holds...

with Mav, Hannah
Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
HIGHTOWER 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
wilchivs 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Trisha Murphy 16/Jun/10 AltLd dog
with mike
Hidden 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Christian Minett
Alex Mason 23/May/10 Solo O/S


whiting.jp 15/May/10 AltLd
Hidden 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
Bennykr 02/May/10 AltLd O/S

sketchy, led second n third pitch

with Noodles
Noodles 02/May/10 AltLd

Led P1 which was awkward as.

simonp ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with Lucy Ham
mick1jones 17/Apr/10 AltLd dog

Led pitches 1 and 3. Fell off at 5b crux pulling through roof

with Chris Dale
Dale ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

lead crux pitch thought protection was good. the exposer on the top pitch is great

with mick
farmus21 11/Mar/10 AltLd dnf

Led the 1st pitch, was going dark as Tom got to the crux so backed off for another day.

with Tom Ripley
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
mr mills ??/2010 -
with paul simkiss
Sam Marland ??/2010 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3

Liam FLeming 13/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Liam FLeming 13/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Dan Jackson
hervenuttall ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Ben
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
RobRock84 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Adam Bevan
Owen W-G 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Not particularly hard for E1 but I had to wait until the end of the pitch before getting a runner I was really happy with.

with Tony Seale
gregoritos ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with fox
Hidden 18/Apr/09 -
michael burrows 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

led pitch 1+3

with norman clacher
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
Becky C 18/Oct/08 2nd dog
with Jez
Pete Graham 26/Jul/08 2nd
with Rick Graham, Ted Rogers
Sean Kelly ?/Jul/08 AltLd
with Duncan Lee
haydng 24/May/08 AltLd rpt


with Rachel
RMG 24/May/08 AltLd
with haydng
Hidden ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden 11/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
sadams 10/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Eric Hildrew
dicky79 09/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Pete
OffshoreAndy 30/Aug/07 AltLd

Lead P1

with UKC Rob Greenwood
Morgan Woods 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

got lost on the last pitch as the moves right looked a lot harder than 4c. pro can be a little fiddly and the moves over the bulge don't feel very secure due to the slopy nature of the rock.

with Stacy & Will
Wilbur 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

I lead the two VS pitches (1+3). P1 was incredibly bold for VS. 30 ft off the deck with no pro after a traverse on creaking jugs. Unnerving! P3 was wrong. dried moss anyone?

with Morgan
Hidden 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Si dH 31/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Led main pitch. Really good, and not as scary as the description makes it sound.

with Neil Furniss
Mike H 03/Jun/06 AltLd
with Jamie Smith
Hidden ??/2006 -
Richard Hession 07/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with Phil Corf
Mark Stevenson 18/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
with Blue
Hidden ??/2005 -
joe c ook ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with T. Gore
unfit 04/Aug/02 AltLd
with ruth
Mark Riley ?/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Greenall
geoff b 08/Mar/01 AltLd
Derek Ryden 08/Mar/01 AltLd O/S
Paul Figg 02/Jul/00 Lead
Roget 02/May/99 Lead O/S
with jon
WB 06/Jul/98 AltLd O/S
with Ciaran
Hidden ?/Jun/98 Lead
BenTiffin 08/May/98 AltLd
with Andy Bissell
lost.arrow 03/May/98 Lead
with Gill Heartly
Hidden 23/Jun/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/95 Lead
Bullybones ??/1995 -
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
NeilGriffiths ?/Jul/93 AltLd
with Richard Tanner
Rob Davies 29/Jun/93 Lead

Run-out after crux on P2

with Roy Lindsay
andrew300169 27/Mar/93 2nd dog
with Tim
tlr 27/Mar/93 AltLd
with Cal
rob.grafton 28/Jun/92 Lead
with Bruce
Andy Say 13/Jun/92 Lead
Hidden 10/May/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/91 AltLd
Dave Rumney ??/1991 Lead
whispering nic 08/Sep/90 -
with Sammy PYB
Hidden 24/Aug/90 2nd
mattnuttall 17/Aug/90 Lead
with Alan Holden
NickJH ?/May/90 Lead
with D Picker
RichardMc 29/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with Angel Vila
Hidden 29/Apr/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
alan moore ??/1990 -

Really good. Crux wall protected by half in wires but the bold bit above was easy.

Eduardo Martinez ??/1989 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/88 2nd
Hidden 01/May/88 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1988 -
Hidden 30/Aug/87 AltLd
mark-abz ?/Jul/85 Lead
with Graham W
John Marsland 21/Apr/84 2nd
with Dave Mould
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Melok ??/1984 -
Martin Bennett 21/Aug/83 -
with Mick Donnelly
Robmwatt ??/1983 -
Hidden ??/1983 -
steveboote ??/1982 Lead O/S

Easier then

with Al Scott
Brian Wilderspin 16/Aug/81 AltLd
with Steve Gough
Chris Terrey 21/Oct/80 Lead
with Mike Quantrell
daviesxxx ??/1980 Lead
with Harry, jjk
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Steve Woollard ??/1980 Lead
with Andy Allaway
Mike Owen 10/Sep/79 Lead rpt
with Huw Watkins, Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 02/Jun/79 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
Hidden 27/May/78 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/78 2nd
Ian Jones ??/1978 2nd O/S
with Tommy Curtis
jon 03/Sep/77 AltLd
with junior
Mike Owen 05/Sep/76 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
Steve Lewis 18/May/76 Lead O/S
with sharpie
Bolt Phobia 26/Feb/75 AltLd
with John Young
D Tempest 14/Jul/74 AltLd

Led the hard pitch

with Chris
petemeads ??/1974 Lead
with John Troke
granitbahn ??/1974 AltLd
eroica64 25/May/70 2nd
with Roger Everett
mikej 20/Jun/66 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Seymore Butt ??/1965 -
with Ian Heys
eroica64 ??/1965 2nd
with John Ewbank
oldmanofmow ?/Jul/61 2nd

Both Pete Williams and I failed on the second pitch, Pete led the overhanging pitch but still pretty hard.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 37
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set