Rockfax Description
A poor bushwhacking starts leads to a fantastic pillar. Start below a big yew tree about 15m up the cliff in a groove.
1) 15m. Climb the groove and traverse to the yew tree and belay.
2) 5b, 34m. Climb the crack in the slab to a spike and move up and left on flakes to a small roof. Balancy moves up onto a ledge on the left lead to a very cruxy pull onto the rib. The stepped rib is a joy to climb and leads to the tree belay on Shadow Wall.
3) 8m. As for the last pitch of Shadow Wall or abseil off the tree. © Rockfax

Ticklists

"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
willpitt07 2 Aug AltLd No purpose to the final pitch and the first pitch was nothing notable. The 2nd pitch was actually quite enjoyable
with Angus A
No purpose to the final pitch and the first pitch was nothing notable. The 2nd pitch was actually quite enjoyable
with Angus A
Rob Gillespie 8 Jul AltLd
Hidden 8 Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 May Lead O/S
neilmackie 5 May AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Apr Lead
EliasKhoury 31 Mar AltLd
OliverRoss 31 Mar AltLd O/S P1
with Elias Khoury
P1
with Elias Khoury
Ellie.Webb 31 Mar 2nd
with Uni club
with Uni club
Tom Redwood 26 May, 2018 2nd O/S First bit is green, top bit is absolutely stunning and on its own would be 3 star VD/ S, one very tricky 5b move between the sections with good gear but down to the right at the roof. Overall not too bad but the route doesn't flow and isn't clean so 1 star makes sense. Vlad lead and oddly slipped after the crux taking a 7m whip onto an RP, finished with style, good lad.
First bit is green, top bit is absolutely stunning and on its own would be 3 star VD/ S, one very tricky 5b move between the sections with good gear but down to the right at the roof. Overall not too bad but the route doesn't flow and isn't clean so 1 star makes sense. Vlad lead and oddly slipped after the crux taking a 7m whip onto an RP, finished with style, good lad.
Vlad Pepper 26 May, 2018 Lead
Terry Cruise 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Tom McCabe 16 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
8PetrieC 16 Jun, 2017 2nd
Martin Bagshaw 18 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S A lot of crap rock and heather pulling (and slinging) to get to a boulder problem.
with Ben from Bristol
A lot of crap rock and heather pulling (and slinging) to get to a boulder problem.
with Ben from Bristol
tom.e 17 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with AndyWigley, Claire
with AndyWigley, Claire
AndyWigley 17 Jul, 2016 2nd
with tom.e
with tom.e
Hidden 19 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
jimmatthews 15 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Oct, 2014 Lead
Marti999 11 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Al ep
with Al ep
jezb1 21 Sep, 2014 Lead With Lou tricky 5a move but well protected crux. A bit green and vegetated leading up to the crux.
With Lou tricky 5a move but well protected crux. A bit green and vegetated leading up to the crux.
Hidden 19 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 19 Aug, 2013 AltLd
BeckyS 1 Jun, 2013 2nd
Hidden 25 May, 2013 Lead
alpinismo.uk 20 Apr, 2013 AltLd dnf
Nick Biven ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hanky 15 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S Protection sparse first pitch. Nice 2nd pitch with tentative moves up into niche. Well worth doing.
with Andy
Protection sparse first pitch. Nice 2nd pitch with tentative moves up into niche. Well worth doing.
with Andy
DanC1985 16 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf Seconded first pitch, Lead second pitch but had to back off due to belayer becoming ill
with Charlotte
Seconded first pitch, Lead second pitch but had to back off due to belayer becoming ill
with Charlotte
beci tointen ?Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with my uncle carl
with my uncle carl
Hidden 1 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jun, 2009 2nd
Hidden 11 Apr, 2009 AltLd
Seymore Butt ??, 2009 AltLd
Richard Kinsman 30 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Tony Lamberton
with Tony Lamberton
Hidden ??, 2008 2nd
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Richard Hession 7 Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Phil Corf
with Phil Corf
Hidden ?May, 2005 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2005 AltLd
jparry75 ?Jun, 2004 2nd
with m.evans
with m.evans
Hidden 10 May, 2003 2nd
Hidden 4 Sep, 1999 2nd
RockPhoenix 2 Jun, 1998 Lead O/S
with Bruv Simon
with Bruv Simon
zero six ??, 1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Jun, 1997 2nd
Paul Boardman 24 Aug, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
with Iain Boardman
Ched ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Hidden 19 May, 1990 2nd
Hidden 30 Aug, 1987 2nd
Robmwatt ??, 1983 -
mikej 8 Jul, 1982 Lead
with Tony Waite
with Tony Waite
Neil McA 2 Jul, 1981 Lead
with Norwegian Tom
with Norwegian Tom
Nigel Coe 4 May, 1980 -
with Pat Stanley, Steve Portnoi
with Pat Stanley, Steve Portnoi
daviesxxx ??, 1980 Lead
with Harry, jjk
with Harry, jjk
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Hammy 19 Apr, 1979 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
with Jonathon Stacey
Bruce Kerr 18 Apr, 1979 Lead
with Brian Carson
with Brian Carson
RichardMc 21 May, 1978 Lead
with Betty Seifert
with Betty Seifert
RichardMc 7 May, 1978 AltLd
with Dave Langmead, Mark Waters
with Dave Langmead, Mark Waters
JohnHutch 30 Oct, 1977 2nd One arm - other recovering from V's Rib!
with CR
One arm - other recovering from V's Rib!
with CR
Derek Ryden ?Aug, 1976 AltLd O/S
with Nicola Davies
with Nicola Davies
Chris Terrey 12 Jun, 1976 Lead
with Roger Wilson
with Roger Wilson
Gordon Stainforth 29 May, 1976 AltLd
with Dave Yates
with Dave Yates
Hidden ?Aug, 1975 AltLd
Mike Owen ?Aug, 1975 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
with John Roberts
Rob Davies 24 Jun, 1975 Lead dnf Used to be VS - loose holds, backed off. Date?
with Mike Papworth
Used to be VS - loose holds, backed off. Date?
with Mike Papworth
Bolt Phobia 8 Mar, 1975 Lead O/S
with Kit Spencer
with Kit Spencer
Bob M ??, 1975 -
granitbahn ??, 1974 AltLd
Sean Kelly ??, 1973 AltLd With the peg.
with Bob Millward
With the peg.
with Bob Millward
Rick51 3 Jul, 1970 AltLd
Martin Bennett 9 May, 1970 -
with Jim Wigginton
with Jim Wigginton
RichardMc 18 Aug, 1969 AltLd There was a peg for aid
with Derek Bull
There was a peg for aid
with Derek Bull
greenbuoy 18 Aug, 1969 2nd
with A N Other
with A N Other
tapley 3 Aug, 1969 AltLd
with Dave Hearnshaw
with Dave Hearnshaw
Dave Musgrove 14 Sep, 1968 AltLd
with Paul Long, Bob Knapton
with Paul Long, Bob Knapton
Gordon Stainforth 11 Aug, 1968 AltLd Found a lot harder than Skylon
with John Stainforth
Found a lot harder than Skylon
with John Stainforth
mikej 18 Apr, 1968 2nd
with Ian Clayton
with Ian Clayton
RichardMc 13 Apr, 1968 Lead β The peg was normal then
with Tony Richards
The peg was normal then
with Tony Richards
Hidden 17 Jun, 1967 Lead
RichardMc 5 Jan, 1967 AltLd O/S
with Richard Oddy
with Richard Oddy
mikej 20 Jun, 1966 Lead
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
eroica64 ?May, 1966 2nd Al Morrow was in the party too.
with Bill Harrison
Al Morrow was in the party too.
with Bill Harrison
kjacks ??, 1965 2nd Peg for aid at the 5b move made more difficult by not unclipping from the runner on the peg - difficult pull when your mate's pulling you back down. Have since led it 'clean'.
with Dave Peers
Peg for aid at the 5b move made more difficult by not unclipping from the runner on the peg - difficult pull when your mate's pulling you back down. Have since led it 'clean'.
with Dave Peers
jcw 21 Nov, 1964 -
with Casey (KC.) Gordon
with Casey (KC.) Gordon
uphillnow ??, 1963 -
oldmanofmow 12 Sep, 1960 AltLd Pete Williams, Pete led the long pitch
Pete Williams, Pete led the long pitch
oldmanofmow 12 Sep, 1960 AltLd Pete Williams, not that hard just one tricky move.
Pete Williams, not that hard just one tricky move.
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 8
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set