Rockfax Description
14m. Begin left of Deception's cracks and gain a peg runner with difficulty - V4. Use the improving side-pull to continue direct, passing a break, to ledges and an escape. Apparently it was originally graded HVS and is now low in the (E4) grade. © Rockfax

FA. Nick Colton 1979

Ticklists: Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests.

Jaytaylor 18/Apr/17 Lead dog
with Laverick the maverick, Leo Woodhead
Leo Woodhead 18/Apr/17 Lead rpt
WilliamRupp 09/Mar/17 Lead G/U
charliepickering 18/Oct/16 2nd
Rory_Cummings_NI 18/Oct/16 Lead G/U
Longsufferingropeholder 19/Aug/16 Lead

Wet finishing ledge cost me the onsight. Robbed :-(

with Ed
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 09/Jan/16 Lead G/U
deacondeacon 05/Dec/15 Lead O/S

Didn't escape, but carried on up the crumbly pillar as I didn't know where it finished. Great starting moves.

Alfie Maun 22/Nov/15 2nd
M_Robinson 22/Nov/15 Lead dog
Jake Young 01/Sep/15 Lead RP
Teappleby 31/Aug/15 Lead RP

Should have flashed it. Boulder problem went alright and once I was above that I should have done it, but got confused and came off. Dogged to the top to look at the moves. Second go again off the move by the peg due to being stupid again. Finally got it done third go!

scottcoates 14/Jun/15 Lead RP

First E4

with Will
Adam24B 28/May/15 Lead G/U

Tricky moves but little danger, easy E4 I think

Toby Dunn 04/May/15 Lead
with Tom Mills
Alfie Maun ??/2015 2nd
Matt Groom 20/Dec/14 Lead
harry_lewis 19/Dec/14 Lead RP
with Jed
Hidden 29/Nov/14 Lead β
amccann 16/Nov/14 Lead RP

Flashed the start, then got pumped trying to work out the move off the sidepull, rested and worked it out, lowered off, pulled the ropes and led clean 10 mins later.

Nick1812P 15/Nov/14 Lead rpt
with Jake
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Jake Young 13/Jul/14 Sent x
Leo Woodhead 29/May/14 Lead β

On my first go I took a big lob right off the top of the boulder problem. My foot was in the wrong place and as I hit the ledge I peeled off, landing on Mischa. After a moment to compose myself I dusted myself off and jumped back on. This time I cruised the boulder problem through to the first peg. A moment to chalk up and then on to the crux. Surprisingly, the crux went down fairly easily and before I knew it the route was done. Enjoyable climbing, short and powerful!

with Mischa
MischaHY 27/May/14 Lead RP

Ground up, having done the boulder problem in the past. Felt very easy on the lead!

The Grist 21/May/14 Lead RP
with Alan Barnes
James Oakes 05/Apr/14 Lead G/U

Fell off moving past first peg, pulled ropes and led clean.

tim newton 05/Apr/14 Lead G/U
Bloke on a Rope 23/Mar/14 Lead G/U

Ground up. Flashed the boulder problem start but didn't work out the 2nd crux quick enough, lowered off and got it next try. Only short but pretty powerful.

with Vic, Mischa, Matt
Climbster 23/Mar/14 2nd β


with Vick, Ian
Haydn Jones 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

in the dark after work! cool climb, needs more traffic to clean it up!

harry_lewis ??/2014 Lead RP
with Jed
jedster1111 ??/2014 2nd
Hidden 17/Nov/13 Sent
alaan 17/Nov/13 Sent O/S

High-balled. Bit wet and sandy at the top, which added a little excitement.

with Will
David Kay 28/Jul/13 Lead RP

Glad to have finally got this clean!

jamesgodwin64 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with John Copper
Jonathan Hall 15/Jun/13 Lead dog

Really dirty and mega pumpy, cudnt quite get the second hard move without a rest.

Jake 12/May/13 Lead RP
Matt_C9716 12/May/13 TR
Somerset swede basher 02/May/13 Lead O/S

Properly onsight as have never tried the boulder problem or seen anyone on it. Good fun.

with Petar the Bulgarian
Alex@home 08/Apr/13 Lead dog
with leon
angus 08/Dec/12 Lead RP

ground up, grabbed onto a big block up the top (150 kgs?) it moved be careful.

akhughes 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Dirty after the boulder problem

with Pete Harris
Rich Kirby 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ruth & Carl
Harry Holmes 19/Jul/12 Lead RP
with Joanna
Nick1812P 09/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Mike, Jonny
mwatson 09/Jul/12 Lead O/S
David Kay 05/Jul/12 Lead dog
pie_eater_pete 03/Jul/12 Lead β

Had done the boulder problem before so it was a onsight after the peg.

Hidden 05/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 05/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Steeve ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S

had a few goes at the first few moves; flashed the rest.

metal arms 19/May/12 Lead dog
gregoritos 30/Mar/12 Lead rpt
JBO 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Just an extended boulder problem. I'm short so it was tough to get into the break, harder than the 'crux' lower down.

David Kay 27/Mar/12 2nd
timmyhobby 20/Feb/12 Lead dog
timmyhobby 18/Feb/12 Lead dnf

love it but couldnt get my balence off the sidepull to reatch the next break, next time! definatly worth a go.

kingholmesy ??/2012 Lead rpt

Shunted years ago.

with Hills
David Kay 03/Dec/11 Lead dog

Took a couple of falls/rest trying to get past the peg. Made it eventually, though not the best sequence perhaps. Need to come back and do it clean.

danjimwill 12/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/11 Lead RP
melonmike 26/Aug/11 2nd β
with Nick, Jack Metcalfe
nic42 26/Aug/11 2nd dnf
with mike, Jack
John Cooper 04/Jul/11 Lead RP
PeteH 04/Jul/11 Lead rpt

Having worked it with someone else a bit shorter, this is definitely pretty morpho. I'm 6ft1 and can static all the moves, just about. Anyone shorter would have to pop.

with John Cooper
gregoritos 07/May/11 Lead rpt
rob.s22 ?/May/11 Lead O/S

Flashed boulder problem. Came down tied in did route (peg pre-clipped)

with A.K
Dave Turnbull, BMC 12/Apr/11 Lead β
with Tim Raffle
jacobjacob 28/Feb/11 Lead O/S
i_a_coops 28/Feb/11 Lead β
with Jacob
Mr Sparkle 22/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 22/Jan/11 Lead RP

I thought this was pretty hard. Depends on wether you trust the peg?

Nickc ??/2011 -
Hidden 23/Oct/10 Lead O/S
HIGHTOWER 23/Aug/10 TR dog
with Pete Staves, Hannah, Danny Mickers
Tightsgirl 23/Aug/10 TR
Tony Little 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Did it above a pad

with Dan
PeteH 01/May/10 Solo O/S

No way this is E4 or 6b, at least not for those with my body shape (tallish, decent reach). Nice climb though.

with Chris Fox
mark20 01/May/10 Lead dog

Bouldered out the start then 1 slump on peg, need to come back to do clean

Hidden 26/Dec/09 TR dog
willoates ?/Jul/09 Lead RP

hard holding the layback. Its my only 6b, i normally struggle on 6a... maybe a hard 6a?

Brown 08/Mar/09 Lead β


with Henry
Stoff ?/Dec/08 Lead dnf

Failed - but enjoyed it !

Hidden 19/Sep/08 Lead RP
Mr Wild 23/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Greg
Hidden 18/Jul/08 TR RP
Stig 25/Jun/08 TR dog

can just about do the moves. surprisingly powerful

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 08/Apr/08 Lead RP
jonnyboy 24/Sep/06 Lead dog

repated tryed without fall.

with Tim Griffin
Hidden 02/May/05 Lead O/S
jonnyboy ?/Mar/05 Lead dog

hard work!!!

Gus ??/2004 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 27/Jun/99 2nd
with Martin Crocker
Stoney Boy 27/Oct/96 Lead O/S
with Rick Scott
Roget 25/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with colin
andy gittins ??/1982 Lead
with Bill Mckee
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 28
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set