Rockfax Description
26m. A pumpy traverse that is the easiest way up the wall but keeps on coming! Climb Heavy Duty to the peg then follow the break across the wall before climbing diagonally on good holds to a finish up the final shallow corner of Redemption...... © Rockfax

FA. Al Evans , Andrea Evans 20/May/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors).

jimxxx 16/Jul AltLd dnf

Felt weak and struggled with this one

with Craig, Ron
WilliamRupp 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Vorlette 13/Nov/16 2nd
with Will
bryce.dorin 22/Jul/16 Lead O/S

finished out left after the traverse as the top section looked like a swamp

MrFantastic 25/Mar/16 Lead dnf

probably finished up the wrong bit

with Catherine
Hidden 16/Jun/15 2nd
Hardcore Pat 14/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Had a couple of 'rests' and and ended up continuing out left into the vegetation.

with Dr Julie
DanielGyi 30/Jun/14 2nd dog

Bag of dicks

James Oakes 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Bag of shit, a non line.

with Dan Gyi
Stig 15/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Emlyn
Leo Woodhead 27/May/14 Lead β
with Mischa
deacondeacon 02/Mar/14 Lead

Finished out left because the top was gopping. Looking at the comments it appears that I've seconded this previously with James.

Andy Peak 1 02/Mar/14 2nd

Nice on second! but we finished to far left as the top was wet.

with Andrew Deckon
jamesgodwin64 26/Jun/13 Lead β
with John Copper
Hidden 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Frank the Husky ??/2013 -
Rich Kirby 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ruth, Phil
gw3285 23/Aug/12 2nd
James Oswald 31/Jul/12 Lead dog

With Deacon. Really tough and definitely e2.! Placed to much gear and got pumped out of my mind. Ended up resting twice as had little motivation 2nd time..!

with deacon
Graeme Hammond 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Need to go back and top out properly as finished slightly left through some ivy, but was pumped silly and the top section was wet. Cool route

stratandrew 15/Apr/12 2nd dnf

This route and all the others that lead to the top of Bionics wall have a serious issue with their finishes on the upper section. There isd a serious need of some crag gardening at the top before any of the last sections on this wall are viable. Paul escaped off left to the small tree after the pumpy traverse.

with Paul Evans
jshields 11/Mar/12 2nd
with Paul Tretheway
Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Alex@home 06/Nov/11 Lead rpt

after a few failures i realised that it's all about tactics - and knowing 2 gear placements in advance. still think it's very hard for E1 though. not technically, just very sustained and with potential for big swings - maybe there's a clue in the name

Ian Broome 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Felt hard. A moment when I wondered if I had the minerals!

with Pete, Simon
rob.s22 ?/May/11 Lead O/S

Topo wrong in Rockfax (no surprise) finnished up Bionic's wall instead, left looked chossy. Steep

with A.K
Mr Sparkle 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 22/Jan/11 2nd
Nickc ??/2011 -
Stig 07/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Greg
Hidden 08/May/10 2nd
Dan Lane 01/May/10 Lead dog

Nails, really really pumpy, although the technical crux is certainly the start.

cymjt ??/2010 -
PeteH 06/Oct/09 Lead dog

This was about the only dry(ish) line on four crags we looked at! I may have traversed too low, felt well hard for E1, hence resting on gear. Then I slipped off a couple of times due to the soaking wet breaks... Maybe it'll feel like E1 on a dry, sunny day :)

with Chris Fox
Stig 25/Jun/08 2nd rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
metal arms 14/Jun/08 Lead dog

its shit and sandy and well 'ard

Stig 05/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Quality. Start is probably the crux.

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
gregoritos ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Dave kettle
Hidden 04/Jan/08 TR dnf
cem 18/Aug/07 Lead dnf

Well named: traversed at wrong height & took a big swing

Roget 18/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Chris Ellis 17/Jul/93 2nd
with Andy Barker
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 19
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set