Rockfax Description
A long line that has a very traditional feel to it, and is a little dirty in places. Start at the toe of the ramp at the end of a seawater-filled trench.
1) 20m. Climb the intimidating right-trending ramp and crack to a good ledge and spike belay at its right-hand end (care is needed to protect the second on this pitch).
2) 12m. Ascend the large flake rightwards to its top and then work up the slab above it to a stance next to a large crack/corner.
3) 14m. Move right to a crack and climb it to a break. Step right to another wider crack and climb its left wall to a ledge and belay on blocks.
4) 10m. Climb a short crack to a horizontal break, traverse left to a ledge and finish up the corner-crack above it. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 28 Jul AltLd
Jim blackford 2 Jul Solo O/S Soloed the direct route which is easier but less pleasant
Soloed the direct route which is easier but less pleasant
climbdevon 25 May -
Hidden 3 May 2nd
banjoDan 3 May Lead O/S Lead two pitches quickly, with only one tricky move on the ramp. Jodie lead well up the direct line along the corner crack to the base of the chimney, building a belay here. Lead final pitch of direct route, which was exceptionally 'adventurous'. Chimney full of mud and grime, only excelled by the fistfuls of grass to grab at the top. Good giggle, only 3 pieces of gear needed for this pitch.
Lead two pitches quickly, with only one tricky move on the ramp. Jodie lead well up the direct line along the corner crack to the base of the chimney, building a belay here. Lead final pitch of direct route, which was exceptionally 'adventurous'. Chimney full of mud and grime, only excelled by the fistfuls of grass to grab at the top. Good giggle, only 3 pieces of gear needed for this pitch.
Hidden 21 Apr 2nd O/S
cdpuk 21 Apr Lead O/S
with KLucy, Alfia
with KLucy, Alfia
garywong 21 Apr AltLd O/S Led P1 and P3
with Zoe Wright
Led P1 and P3
with Zoe Wright
John MacQuarrie 29 Sep, 2018 2nd Beginning was nice, towards the end was less directional. first climb of the weekend
Beginning was nice, towards the end was less directional. first climb of the weekend
Raggar 29 Sep, 2018 2nd
with Ian M
with Ian M
Hidden 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
django 10 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with John Rowe
with John Rowe
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Rob Seymour 9 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf P1 only. Arrived short of time, with an incoming tide, intending to do Kaleidoscope, but we couldn't get across the deep, sea-filled trench to the start of that route (better to abseil in from the wide ledge above to greasy ledges on the landward side of the trench). More or less avoided the waves jumping across to start Rake's Progress. P1 is a good pitch, but place gear to protect the second, rest of the route hardly looks worth doing.
with Ron Chambers
P1 only. Arrived short of time, with an incoming tide, intending to do Kaleidoscope, but we couldn't get across the deep, sea-filled trench to the start of that route (better to abseil in from the wide ledge above to greasy ledges on the landward side of the trench). More or less avoided the waves jumping across to start Rake's Progress. P1 is a good pitch, but place gear to protect the second, rest of the route hardly looks worth doing.
with Ron Chambers
JezzaCat 23 Jun, 2018 Lead
caron gaisford 23 Jun, 2018 2nd
gillyml 31 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
overdrawnboy 22 May, 2018 AltLd 1st 2 pitches feel like a sea cliff , the second 2 feel like some obscure stuff in eastern lakes, but really good fun, maybe not one for a first v diff lead
with mc
1st 2 pitches feel like a sea cliff , the second 2 feel like some obscure stuff in eastern lakes, but really good fun, maybe not one for a first v diff lead
with mc
Hidden 31 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
crampy11 ??, 2018 AltLd First of all the guidebook West Country climbs by Rockfax does not help much with any aspect of this climb. The approach description is difficult to interpret and on seeing the ‘prominentry’ you can get drawn there. The decent was intimidating with a worrying step across the chock stone waves lapping underneath. Could require you to rope up! First pitch was as described a squeeze move for short people near the mantle shelf. Description and diagrams of the rest of the route were not helpful and it is difficult to pick a line, exploration is needed! Final pitches were green and hairy with loose rocks. Needs gardening. Took far too long! Not advised for first sea cliff climb can definitely turn into a severe!
First of all the guidebook West Country climbs by Rockfax does not help much with any aspect of this climb. The approach description is difficult to interpret and on seeing the ‘prominentry’ you can get drawn there. The decent was intimidating with a worrying step across the chock stone waves lapping underneath. Could require you to rope up! First pitch was as described a squeeze move for short people near the mantle shelf. Description and diagrams of the rest of the route were not helpful and it is difficult to pick a line, exploration is needed! Final pitches were green and hairy with loose rocks. Needs gardening. Took far too long! Not advised for first sea cliff climb can definitely turn into a severe!
Tom Seccombe 19 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S Lead up the ramp, then continued up the big corner and slab, then another couple of pitches.
with Carolyn Bainbridge
Lead up the ramp, then continued up the big corner and slab, then another couple of pitches.
with Carolyn Bainbridge
runwildjohn 15 Jun, 2017 Lead
with Dave Rawlinson
with Dave Rawlinson
Phil_Brock 16 Apr, 2017 AltLd LMC Cornwall meet. Enjoyable climb if a bit overgrown in places. Led pitches 1 & 3. Scramble down is a tricky one - down climbing required in places and definitely wouldn't want to slip!
LMC Cornwall meet. Enjoyable climb if a bit overgrown in places. Led pitches 1 & 3. Scramble down is a tricky one - down climbing required in places and definitely wouldn't want to slip!
BarrySW19 16 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Good route - first pitch has a bit of a desperate dyno for shorter climbers to get the pocket, otherwise pretty much VDiff.
Good route - first pitch has a bit of a desperate dyno for shorter climbers to get the pocket, otherwise pretty much VDiff.
spgibbs 15 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Lynn Robin 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S I led pitch 2
I led pitch 2
Poco Loco 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd rpt
with Dave B
with Dave B
PanzerHanzler 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 & 2 - great adventure climbing, probably harder than a standard Vdiff. Lynn, P3 & Martin P4. Fantastic little route each pitch has its own character and all were fun - P1 was interesting for the grade.
with Martin Hore, Lynn Robin
Led pitches 1 & 2 - great adventure climbing, probably harder than a standard Vdiff. Lynn, P3 & Martin P4. Fantastic little route each pitch has its own character and all were fun - P1 was interesting for the grade.
with Martin Hore, Lynn Robin
Guy Lowndes 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with davej17
with davej17
Hidden 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 18 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Down in three pitches, up this in four. Four hours. I think we both had a great time!
with fshbf
Down in three pitches, up this in four. Four hours. I think we both had a great time!
with fshbf
Hidden 18 Jun, 2016 2nd
perrys 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Alex Beuchert
with Alex Beuchert
Raggar 27 Sep, 2015 AltLd
with Carol, Andy J
with Carol, Andy J
ChrisGard 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Jack Hampson, Brandon Banfield
with Jack Hampson, Brandon Banfield
Hidden 31 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Whole Nut 31 Aug, 2015 2nd dog Last pitch very green so came out though gully
with foulis
Last pitch very green so came out though gully
with foulis
robertcollier 19 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Sunny and hot. Lead all 4 pitches, navigation on pitch 2 and 3 tricky. Surprisingly challenging for a VDiff, felt more like a severe. Pitch 3&4 are dirty (but dry)
with Emily Collier
Sunny and hot. Lead all 4 pitches, navigation on pitch 2 and 3 tricky. Surprisingly challenging for a VDiff, felt more like a severe. Pitch 3&4 are dirty (but dry)
with Emily Collier
Hidden 30 May, 2015 Lead
K_Maywood 30 May, 2015 2nd
Hidden 7 May, 2015 AltLd
JohnBotham 7 May, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 2nd
Poco Loco 5 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S I led the first and last pitch. The first pitch was a bit wet which was more interesting since I was climbing in trainers... Interesting slabby hand traverse on the final pitch.
with Becky
I led the first and last pitch. The first pitch was a bit wet which was more interesting since I was climbing in trainers... Interesting slabby hand traverse on the final pitch.
with Becky
gingerbex 5 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
9fingerjon 3 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Dan
with Dan
danieleaston 3 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
dkd 12 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
Mark Kemball 3 Aug, 2014 Lead
with Solomon Kemball Dorey, Alison Dorey
with Solomon Kemball Dorey, Alison Dorey
CLyus 13 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
chrismadar 13 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Lead all pitches. Went off route after pitch 2 and went straight up rather than right and up the slap, had a technical overhanging move which was harder than VDiff, great fun though.
Lead all pitches. Went off route after pitch 2 and went straight up rather than right and up the slap, had a technical overhanging move which was harder than VDiff, great fun though.
Meinertzhagen 13 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Christopher Lyus
with Christopher Lyus
Jeester 13 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Didn't take enough gear and went off route. Bit of a 'mare. Lesson learnt: Climb multipitch with more snap gates, screwgates or quickdraws!
with Rogelio Medina
Didn't take enough gear and went off route. Bit of a 'mare. Lesson learnt: Climb multipitch with more snap gates, screwgates or quickdraws!
with Rogelio Medina
Hidden 30 Mar, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 30 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Nov, 2013 2nd
Hidden 9 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S
Ian Bell 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S P1 & P3. P1 & P2 very nice. P3 a bit horrible and mossy. No feet hand traverse seemed a bit stiff for V Diff. Lovely place and weather though.
with Tania T
P1 & P3. P1 & P2 very nice. P3 a bit horrible and mossy. No feet hand traverse seemed a bit stiff for V Diff. Lovely place and weather though.
with Tania T
BigHairyIan 30 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S First pitch is brilliant. Can be tough for the second, if the leader isn't thoughtful with the protection. Upper pitches are not obvious, but worth it for the first pitch...
with rickstaylor, Katy Stranack
First pitch is brilliant. Can be tough for the second, if the leader isn't thoughtful with the protection. Upper pitches are not obvious, but worth it for the first pitch...
with rickstaylor, Katy Stranack
rickstaylor 30 Jul, 2013 AltLd
jhb0510 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Tom Lowe, Dave Webster
with Tom Lowe, Dave Webster
Thecoastalroute 26 May, 2013 Lead Beautiful setting! First multi-pitch lead. Dead seagull.
Beautiful setting! First multi-pitch lead. Dead seagull.
perranman 26 May, 2013 2nd O/S The first pitch is in a spectacular position, giving vdiff access to E grade territory. Lovely climb in perfect sunshine.
with Tom Lowe, James berwick
The first pitch is in a spectacular position, giving vdiff access to E grade territory. Lovely climb in perfect sunshine.
with Tom Lowe, James berwick
ParkFace 6 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Dave Bedford
with Dave Bedford
NancyJones 5 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Pete Jones 5 Sep, 2012 2nd
Skip 1 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Pitches 3 and 4 terrible, loads of mud and hairy lichen.
Pitches 3 and 4 terrible, loads of mud and hairy lichen.
Hidden 1 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
A Walker 1 Sep, 2012 AltLd
with Skip
with Skip
Hidden 1 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
bsparky 23 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead 1st & 3rd pitches. 1st pitch a pleasure, 2nd still fun, 3rd & 4th not obvious and soggy/overgrown.
Lead 1st & 3rd pitches. 1st pitch a pleasure, 2nd still fun, 3rd & 4th not obvious and soggy/overgrown.
Hidden 23 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Betha. 28 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Neil D
with Neil D
Neil D 28 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1, P3, P4. Dirty!
with Betha.
Led P1, P3, P4. Dirty!
with Betha.
robbiek 3 Jun, 2012 AltLd
with Alistair Everett, will brown
with Alistair Everett, will brown
BenLarby 6 May, 2012 Lead O/S One tricky move on suspect gear on first pitch. Rest was a pleasure. Sunburnt arms
with Demetris, Al
One tricky move on suspect gear on first pitch. Rest was a pleasure. Sunburnt arms
with Demetris, Al
Chris Manasseh 5 May, 2012 AltLd Led pp 2 + 3
with Jonah Jones, Andy Gee
Led pp 2 + 3
with Jonah Jones, Andy Gee
Marti999 14 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S Escape in the rain
with Guy Buckingham
Escape in the rain
with Guy Buckingham
Hidden 14 Apr, 2012 -
arandall 11 Feb, 2012 Solo O/S Good fun, shame the middle pitches were a bit damp.
Good fun, shame the middle pitches were a bit damp.
2602steve ??, 2012 -
Callum Anderson ??, 2012 -
mark_jee 14 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S First two pitches sweet but lost route on final pitch and had to battle lichen and other grot
First two pitches sweet but lost route on final pitch and had to battle lichen and other grot
cathymiller 14 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S First two pitches ok, then got lost!
with rose shaddock
First two pitches ok, then got lost!
with rose shaddock
Thumbspragger ?Aug, 2011 2nd
Alex 74 1 Jun, 2011 AltLd good first pich - rest rather overgrown
with Dave m
good first pich - rest rather overgrown
with Dave m
simoncov 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Challenging route finding through plants, lichen and guano. Intimidating but feasible final pitch with hand-traverse into mantel-shelf onto guano covered ledge. Had to wash hands afterwards but all good fun.
with LJ
Challenging route finding through plants, lichen and guano. Intimidating but feasible final pitch with hand-traverse into mantel-shelf onto guano covered ledge. Had to wash hands afterwards but all good fun.
with LJ
Hidden 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Oct, 2010 AltLd
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S First pitch was really promising, then went off route, not obvious, ended up gardening. Poor
with Mick Sissons
First pitch was really promising, then went off route, not obvious, ended up gardening. Poor
with Mick Sissons
Hidden 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Mike Bayley 2 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Pitches 1 & 3
with Lee Attwater
Pitches 1 & 3
with Lee Attwater
adam.wheeler 27 Jul, 2009 2nd
with Andrea van der Vilt, Dave Wheeler
with Andrea van der Vilt, Dave Wheeler
Hidden 27 Jul, 2009 2nd
bigrob 13 Jun, 2009 AltLd andy led middle pitches as to avoid nesing gulls on pegasus
with coombs
andy led middle pitches as to avoid nesing gulls on pegasus
with coombs
Master Chief 14 Nov, 2008 AltLd O/S
with jgclimb
with jgclimb
Eccentric 2 Nov, 2008 AltLd O/S Nice VD, bit bold on the final pitch.
with Tom Wilson
Nice VD, bit bold on the final pitch.
with Tom Wilson
blenner 1 Nov, 2008 2nd
with helix
with helix
Hidden 1 Nov, 2008 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 5 May, 2008 2nd rpt
Hidden 5 May, 2008 2nd rpt
Hidden 5 May, 2008 2nd rpt
Jules 210681 27 Aug, 2007 AltLd
with Zoomer
with Zoomer
Zoomer 27 Aug, 2007 AltLd Bottom was wet as the tide had just pulled out, nice route.
Bottom was wet as the tide had just pulled out, nice route.
mattparratt 17 Jun, 2007 AltLd With Paul Robson
With Paul Robson
Hidden 5 May, 2007 2nd
mol 5 May, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 29 May, 2006 AltLd O/S
shazbat ?May, 2006 AltLd
with SCC
with SCC
jonny357 ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
hepitt ??, 2005 -
EllieWoods ?May, 2004 Lead O/S
with Simon Greenslade
with Simon Greenslade
Hidden 1 Sep, 2003 Lead
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 23 Aug, 2002 Solo O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2002 Lead
Rog Wilko ?Mar, 2001 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
with Debbie Wilkinson
Neil Henson ??, 2001 2nd My first ever outdoor climb (except for PYB course). Will always remember this.
with Mark Collins
My first ever outdoor climb (except for PYB course). Will always remember this.
with Mark Collins
plain kitten ?Jul, 1998 Lead
Raggar ?May, 1996 Lead Guessing dates
with Jo G
Guessing dates
with Jo G
tlr 12 Apr, 1990 AltLd
with Fin
with Fin
Hidden ?Aug, 1989 Lead O/S
RockPhoenix 20 Jul, 1988 Lead O/S Leading group of students with ISR
Leading group of students with ISR
Nigel Bond 27 Aug, 1981 Lead
with Glyn Jones
with Glyn Jones
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??, 1981 Lead
Hidden 1 Jan, 1977 Lead
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Voting
High HVD
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Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set