18m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
30m. A mini-expedition, devious with some excellent climbing.
1) 5b, 12m. Climb to the block overhang and pull over to the base of a short ramp. Exit rightwards from the top of this to join Black and Tans which is followed to its stance.
2) 5b, 18m. Climb out left then up the short rib to a possible small stance (4b to here). Pull onto the right edge of the wall above and traverse left (gripping - tiny wires) to the exposed rounded rib. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Guilliard, John Yates (alts) 1970

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Days of the Week, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Graeme Hammond 06/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

quite bold on both pitches, led p1 (take micro RPs!)

with Neil Colquhoun
mikeski 26/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
SimonOliver 04/Jun/16 2nd
Sammy Oakes 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
alexspurling 25/Oct/15 2nd

It's not over after the lip of the roof. Save some boldness for the technical slab following it.

with Juan
Flavio 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with A Stranger
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead
Dan724 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Dan Ely
dan ely 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

bouldery,bold and contrived but good moves

with dan
Alex@home 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S

P1 only. Dropped RPs from the ledge so had to finish with no gear above the roof which was interesting...Thought it was quite high in the grade even with gear there due to the start. Very good climbing

with The Doctor
Tim Rodgers 26/Apr/15 AltLd
robertmichaellovell 26/Apr/15 AltLd

actually pretty good, ace rock over on pitch one, two bits of gear on the last pitch

with Tim
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 12/Jul/14 AltLd

took the line described in the BMC guide. the traverse of the final pitch was run out and a fall would've meant a massive swing. e3 5c. led p1 and p3.

with Roisin
jimmatthews 30/May/14 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

Hidden 30/May/14 AltLd O/S
John sealey 29/Mar/14 Lead
with si witcher
switch 29/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Great first pitch. I found the top pitch line contrived - seemed more logical to wander up leftwards to the arete. Good position though.

with John S
Alistair Corbett 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Not 3 star or 5b... average route at best. i thought first pitch was bold near the top and a little tricky!

with Mike
Mike W 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
Whitters 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with pep
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd
dannyboy83 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Ramsey Villanueva
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead
deejmonkey 05/Jun/11 Lead
with Tom
tomparrott 05/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with DJ
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hannes B 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Shane
chris fox ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Never E2 5b for someone 5'4" tall !!! very strenuous pull up after the big reach right off the ramp with gear way below under the roof. Shaking like a dog sh*tting razor blades !

Hidden 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Adam Potter 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
climbergg 18/Sep/09 2nd
Tim M 18/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Emma
Hidden 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
D-Si 24/Jun/09 2nd

3 on the little ledge, cosy

with Dominic Bridgwood, Peter Bridgwood
benkelsey ??/2009 2nd RP
IanJackson 17/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Had to get Rob to past me my Rp's up!

with Robeverybody
sadams 09/Feb/08 AltLd

eric led 2nd pitch

with Eric Hildrew
Ian Parnell 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with helen
AJ007 11/Aug/07 2nd
with Dan
Hidden 03/Feb/07 AltLd
dan gibson 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with AJ
climbingrick 01/Mar/06 2nd dog
ukb & bmc shark 28/Jan/06 AltLd O/S

May have been a hindsight rather than an onsight -had a distinct feeling of deja-vu at the top of the first pitch ie the move rightwards into Black & Tans with only an rp for protection.

with Mike Garton
Billg ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
The old James turnbull ??/2006 -
datoon 04/Sep/05 Lead dog
with RT
mark s ??/2005 -
Hidden 15/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/03 AltLd
Gus 07/Jun/02 Lead O/S

awesome outing!!

ArnaudG ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/1999 Lead
with ciaran troup
Hidden 19/Sep/98 Lead
djones66 ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S

Excellent route. Felt like E25b to me, and I'm 5ft 4". For me, the crux was the thin pull in the groove near the top of pitch 1. Getting over the little roof on pitch 1 turned out to be easy. Best move is at the start of the hanging groove on pitch 2. Big pinch-grip pull-up, with solid gear. Recommended!

with Nick Evans
nige ??/1996 2nd
with john buckley
Sean Kelly ?/Apr/93 Lead

Easy for the grade.

with Pete Carmichael
whispering nic 13/Oct/91 -
with slow hand nick
Tony Little 13/Oct/91 AltLd O/S
with Sam
samt 13/Oct/91 2nd

Run out apparently.

adi bryant 06/Oct/91 AltLd O/S
with Clive
Steve Crowe 03/Aug/91 Lead

1st pitch only

with KM
Roget 27/Jun/91 Solo dnf

Backed off from the arête.

Roget 29/Apr/90 Lead O/S
SB_NWUK_99 ??/1990 2nd
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Mike Owen 19/May/87 Lead rpt
with Richard Twinning
Eduardo Martinez ?/Jun/84 AltLd O/S

led pitch 2

Hidden ??/1984 2nd
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 Lead
with Bob Higginbotham
Mike Owen 12/Sep/81 Lead O/S
with Gavin Peat
Hidden 12/Jun/81 AltLd
Mark Kemball ??/1977 Lead
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High E3
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