Rockfax Description
24m. A bit of an eliminate though with good positions, some interesting moves and low in the grade. Start up Hollybush Crack until above the prickly beast then climb the arete on the left passing a tricky overhang to gain the final exposed rib. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1978

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Days of the Week, Roaches HVS Challenge.

deruiter14 12/Nov/17 2nd O/S
lost.arrow 15/Oct/17 Lead rpt
with Rav
Rav 15/Oct/17 2nd O/S
with Hendo
PanzerHanzler 16/Sep/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/17 Lead dog
pingora 16/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Claire Potter
HenryMeier 14/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Philip Biglands
buxtoncoffeelover 29/Aug/17 TR

Nice line, & interesting moves. Not particularly easy/low in the grade

with SHUNT
gavster 13/Aug/17 Lead
with rob
Rob Royle 13/Aug/17 2nd
with Gav
stratandrew 06/Aug/17 2nd
with Andy Pierce
Lazer sk eh 25/May/17 Lead O/S
with mark
liebs 20/Apr/17 Lead O/S
bigbobbyking 08/Apr/17 Lead
with Chris Bull
derekwwl 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S
kevinlee 02/Apr/17 2nd dog
AnitaClimb 26/Mar/17 2nd
with LC&CC
WillRhodes ??/2017 Lead O/S
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
AlistairBerridge 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Sarah Fong, Rogelio Medina
Jules Lane 17/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Really fun climb. Worth 2stars

with Mynydd Mark W
Tru 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Andy Clarke 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S

A fine route, which feels pretty independent and direct once you're on it. Three good sections of varied 5a climbing: crack, mantel and slab. Didn't think it was particularly low in the grade. Well worth doing.

with Ross
Dale Comley 12/Aug/16 Solo O/S
shaunhumphreys 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Calum w
Andrew Martin 31/Jul/16 2nd
with Julian
Tim_C7 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Toby D
Oo 10/Jul/16 2nd
with Tim_C7
Mark Loveday 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Great route with varied climbing. Squashed between two popular lower grade routes so probably get’s ignored but well worth the effort and better than a single star.

gpcomps 07/Jun/16 Lead β

Great route, felt quite exposed veering off from Hollybusg Crack

with Mark L
tobydunford 05/Jun/16 2nd β
with Simon Thursz
SimonOliver 04/Jun/16 2nd
Peter Metcalfe 08/May/16 2nd
with Jon Lawson, Katie McKay
K Mckay 08/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/16 2nd O/S
Andrew Abraham 22/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Ky
Ky 22/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Wales
Hidden 19/Apr/16 Lead rpt
BareBears 31/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Connor, Kay
FelixPeterken 26/Oct/15 Lead O/S

I absolutely loved it, but maybe not so much if you're not a fan of eliminates.

with AndrewP
AndrewP 26/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/15 Lead
Andypeak 12/Oct/15 Lead

I found this quite tough. I may have also broken a vital foothold on the crux of the slab (all I did was stand on it)

Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Dan Vaj 26/Sep/15 2nd rpt
mark4344 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Dan Vaj
eastonator 13/Sep/15 2nd O/S
StevieLee 13/Sep/15 Lead
Neal Jobling 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Tracy
Alessandro Tentori 30/Aug/15 2nd
with Jan.Hrb
Jan.Hrb 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
James Rigby 28/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Pushing on the limits of single pitch with a 50m rope! The rain came in making all holds wet! Held a lead fall above the tree aswell!

with Ben Richie
Hidden 25/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
mariannekhoo 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Deserves another star despite being an eliminate - has two or three distinct technical moves above pretty reasonable gear. The 5a is fair and not really a soft touch (Knight's Move is easier!). Finding decent gear for an anchor was the hardest bit - glad I did as Chris took a couple of falls.

Hidden 18/Jul/15 2nd dog
tom bre 15/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/15 Lead
Dan Vaj 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
guy757 11/Jun/15 -
Flavio 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #15

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
Hidden 04/Jun/15 2nd
Martin Dale 30/May/15 2nd
with Wriggers
NickJH 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with P Stridgen
john lynch 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with Bethan D
Morris123 24/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Dom Bloomfield 24/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Matt Amos 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Dan Dry
Hidden 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S
robgixer ??/2015 Lead O/S
cem 15/Nov/14 Lead rpt

A bit greasy in places.

Hidden 15/Nov/14 2nd
Kirill 15/Nov/14 2nd rpt

Seconded just about cleanly this time. Hard for the grade.

AlexxelA 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Really good route, felt quite hard but then haven't climed much recently. Quite bold in places. And cracking toe rubber combined with greasy conditions didn't help.

Tomasz Smith 28/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
mr random 27/Sep/14 2nd
with Ian Peg
Katsmiff 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Justyn Philpot
Rafal Malczyk 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S

I followed Ian - easy and pleasant climb.

with Ian Pegg
KeenClimber 22/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/14 2nd
fuzzysheep01 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Naomi Walker, Matt Kettle
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Ben1983 31/Aug/14 2nd
chris smith 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A really nice climb, deserves more than 1 star.

benlatham07 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
MikeLell 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Mark, Fraser
poigol5043 12/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
peaterpan 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Did my first HVS on the summer solstice. Good day

with james
Hidden 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 18/Jun/14 TR O/S
with Rich A
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead dog
Andrew Abraham 13/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Sam Riley
PeteWilson 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
WillDoyle ?/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 04/May/14 2nd
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead rpt
MattKettle 06/Apr/14 2nd O/S
DanChad 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Chris Murray 01/Apr/14 Lead

As good as I remember it.

warrygallace ?/Apr/14 Lead
with ben edwin
John sealey 29/Mar/14 Lead
with si witcher
switch 29/Mar/14 2nd
with John S
Hidden 24/Nov/13 Lead rpt
e_t_1990 ?/Nov/13 2nd
lost.arrow 29/Sep/13 Lead
with Emma Veitch
Amber Chaloner 28/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Tim Popplestone
khalidq 26/Sep/13 2nd O/S
ralphio 26/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this. Nice finger jams, then a thin middle section followed but a protectionless run-out on massive jugs at the top.

Hidden 24/Sep/13 -
Hidden 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S
hotfeet 14/Sep/13 Lead
with David Hammond
rich_hw 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with James
Hidden 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S
davebrox 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Fiona
Jules Lane 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this. 2 or 3 tricky moves, right at my limit, the one on the slab over the overhang very friction - dependent. I was 90% sure I could do them and felt good so went for it. Excellent. I am told it it a fair 5a, not especially 'low in the grade'as per rockfax.

with Mynydd Dave K
David Kay 11/Aug/13 2nd
UnkArl 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Lee
Calum Wadsworth 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Steve D, Harrogate club
Hidden 27/Jul/13 2nd
jasonpm 20/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Eddie Webster
leon 13/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Done properly this time.

fabricio 11/Jul/13 2nd
with Shaun
djones66 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Good fun and well protected in the lower half - excellent gear at the crux, and a comfortable position to place it. But....being so close to Black Velvet takes a bit of the fun out of it, and...there's one wire placement just above the crux, and then there's no gear till you get to the top (unless you step left into Black Velvet). Luckily its easy territory.

with Stve mc D
CharlieMack 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Alice
JayAyBee ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Rich
Rob Gillespie ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 10/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Dad
Hardcore Pat 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
claregardiner 15/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/12 2nd β
Whitters 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Paula Ryan ?/Sep/12 2nd
with Hazel
littleluke 21/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead
pebbles 12/Jul/12 2nd
with guido
climb the peak 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S
whitehouse_rhys 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with ben roe
BRoe 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/12 2nd
Charley Carpenter ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 29/May/12 Lead
Hidden 24/May/12 2nd O/S
hellboundblr 20/May/12 Lead
with Richard Savage
bobpilgrem 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Bob/Nic
Charlie Zephyr Booth ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with martin broadhurst
PAJames ??/2012 -
Morris123 05/Nov/11 -
Skell 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jules
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
waynem1985 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S
antdav 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S

First HVS, either low in the grade or suited to me but didn't find it tough

with Wayne
monika paprzycka 24/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead
moberg 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Shortarse.Crowley ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
eel 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Barry D 14/Jun/11 2nd
with Andy H
Andy Hardy 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Avoided the crux - couldn't work it out :(

guy757 09/Jun/11 2nd
Frostie 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
jaimer 28/May/11 2nd
Mikael 28/May/11 Lead
Hidden ?/May/11 2nd
Dave Mahon ?/May/11 Lead O/S

straight forward for the grade.

claregardiner 29/Apr/11 Lead
richyg 28/Apr/11 -
ColinD 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Took a while to commit. Signs of recent breaks on slabby holds, but still good for the grade. 2nd confirmed grade from previous ascents.

chrisbussell 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Tim O'Neill
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
NB Pixel 18/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Wicked moves up onto break, and tricky feet starting up slab on the left... Awesome!

with JT
Hidden 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Jonas Paulsson 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Robin Dahlberg
rd20 31/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Climbed cleanly up the crack and corner but stupidly went up Black Velvet rather than continuing up the slab - damn

smolders 31/Oct/10 2nd dnf

Finished up the crack in the top section ofBlack Velvet

Emma-Louise Anderson 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Loved this climb. The hollybush crack a the start was tough... It took forever to commit to moving from the groove onto the gearless, hold less slab. When I finally did it was amazing. The top flowed too perfectly to interrupt the pace to place gear.

Hidden 22/Sep/10 2nd rpt
leon 04/Sep/10 Lead

Started off up this route but mistakenly moved left into the crack when I should have moved straight up on the slab. The bit I did was very good.

with Steven Davidson
cem 22/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Paul Wilkinson
riddle 21/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Jamesb55 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with John Slarke
Hidden 11/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
riff156 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Alex Falconer
Hidden 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
ianslade 22/Jun/10 Lead β

Happy Day's, did not know it was HVS at the time :)

with Dave
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd
matt.jj 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

A good route, not too pumpy and more thoughtful. The line of the route is not very clear just be careful not to stray left into easy ground.

Dave Mahon ?/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Happy Wanderer 28/May/10 2nd O/S
with Ken T
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
chrisallan 09/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd O/S
marclloyd77 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Shelby
mattyork2 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S
tatz45 ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
keith leonard ??/2010 -
donkster 23/Oct/09 Lead rpt
with crooko
rfdl100 26/Sep/09 2nd
PeteH 16/Sep/09 2nd O/S
ndp 15/Sep/09 Lead
ben__day 29/Aug/09 2nd
spacey 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/09 2nd
jandyd05 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Alfredo 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ben H
b.hayley 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with alfredo
garywong 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
stvey 26/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Jay_Kay
Jim Slater 20/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd
mic_b 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/09 2nd
Elsier 03/May/09 2nd
with Ian, Stuart
Si dH 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Great route and didnt feel eliminate at all to me - climbing up the groove is toally indepedent the crux is close to BlackVelvet but you dont really notice it. I thoguht it was worth at least 2 stars, would be 3 if the Holly Bush wasnt there!

with Neil Furniss
Barry D 18/Apr/09 Lead
with Chris M
Hidden 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
paul.valentine 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Adrian Wood
Trobbo 12/Apr/09 2nd
with martin bennett
Martin Bennett 12/Apr/09 -
with Terry Rob
Hidden 06/Oct/08 Lead
Jim Slater 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Angus Malcolm
stuckonarock 16/Sep/08 2nd

The holly bush stole my hat!

with Matthew
Kirill 13/Sep/08 2nd dog

only done it with the help of the tight rope

cem 13/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Dave Foster ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Another great climb worth more than one star. Top section very run out, but easy, so take your bold slab head with you.

with Carl
Dave Lacey 30/Aug/08 Lead
jak.kelly 30/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Sankey 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S

Poor route, awkward moves to gain the meat of the route, which is a couple of reachy moves between breaks, then straightforward

with John + Eddy
Tanya Savage 16/Feb/08 2nd

hard but excellent

Neil Pacey 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Really good varied climbing, some nice technical moves with gear where it counts, deserves at least two star's IMO.

daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
SamStrong 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Greg Kieckhefer
Different Steve 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Clio
Shaw Brown 03/Aug/07 Lead
with David Jones
Duncan Skelton 29/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Kai Green
Geras 28/Jul/07 2nd
with Kai
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/07 Lead
Chesh 02/May/07 2nd
with Paul Lestor
dpmUK 25/Apr/07 Lead

Think I may have traversed round one bit - apparently not the crux.

with ebygomm
Hidden 25/Apr/07 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rosie Henstock 11/Apr/07 2nd
ungracefulathlete 10/Apr/07 2nd dog

Dogged? i fell off numerous times, as it was PITCH BLACK.... i must get points for that...?

with Tim
Steve Waters, Mynydd 01/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Very good route. Sustained but do-able as a lead.

with Martin Kocsis
sce8 10/Mar/07 Lead dnf
with Masa and Gemma
masa-alpin 10/Mar/07 Lead β

Steve attempted to lead but backed off, so I took over using his gear.

with Steve El, Gemma F
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Si01 ??/2007 -
cem 26/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Pete Atkinson, Rob Truckle
BallsofBritishSteel 26/Nov/06 2nd
A Crook 04/Nov/06 2nd
Hidden 07/Sep/06 Lead
Stig 07/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Pete
Paul Burgess 29/Jun/06 2nd
with Dan Henderson
goi.ashmore 27/Apr/06 Lead β
with Andy Leavitt
Lawrence Eccles ??/2006 2nd O/S
with A. Crook
The old James turnbull ??/2006 -
orb ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with Mojo
Jez 24/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/05 2nd
maybe_si ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/05 Lead
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/05 Lead

Had to start up Tech Slab due to traffic on Black and Tans so may have missed the crux, all flet a bit artificial

with Jenny Fones
lost.arrow 11/Apr/05 -
mark s ??/2005 -
Budge 17/Jun/04 2nd O/S
with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates
Mark Collins 21/Feb/04 Lead O/S
with Neil Henson
Coel Hellier ??/2004 Lead
James B 24/Aug/03 -
ASchwirtz 21/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Gus ??/2002 Lead
dan gibson ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/01 Lead
ArnaudG ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tarquin ??/1999 -
Chris Murray ?/May/97 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
brady 26/Jun/96 Lead

landed in Holly Bush first time!

with John Cameron
roncaves 02/Jun/96 2nd
with Mike Entwhistle
Roget 23/Apr/91 Solo O/S
Raggar 30/Mar/91 2nd
with Steve B
Hidden 01/Aug/90 Lead
andybirtwistle 25/Jul/90 -
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
OMSKB ?/Aug/89 Lead
with John Roberts
rogerskews 22/Mar/86 -
with John Blackburn
Richard Weller 22/Sep/85 Lead
with Rory O'Connor
ukb & bmc shark 05/Nov/83 Lead O/S

Graded MVS then - my third lead. Until today I thought I had not led HVS until the following spring

with Paul Hempstock
Nigel Bond 19/Feb/83 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 63
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 60
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set