Rockfax Description
III, 215m. Lesser known than its neighbours but a very appealing and worthwhile line. It makes an excellent option when the other routes are busy. There isn't much in the way of fixed gear so take a full rack. It is possible to link some of the pitches but beware of rope drag.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the slabby spur to a small ledge.
2) 5b, 55m. Climb just to the left of the spur until a large block belay is reached. This pitch can be split.
3) 5b, 35m. Traverse back rightward for a few metres before following a slabby groove system to a stance. There is a huge corner system to your right.
4) 5b, 35m. Climb blocky terrain above, before moving left and following easy ground to a stance beneath the steep wall.
5) 5c, 35m. A wide crack looms above. Thankfully you climb flakes and crack to its right. Continue more easily to a belay.
6) 5a, 45m. Follow easy ground behind the belay before traversing right up a series of slabby ribs.
7) 5b, 35m. Negotiate your way across rocky ledges (or a large snow patch) to reach the final slabby wall. Continue for short way onto a ledge.
8) 6a, 15m. Three stacked blocks stand between you and the summit. Climb up flakes and corners above the stance, before traversing into a corner beneath the leftmost flake. An airy traverse on huge holds is followed across this. Then climb and easy chimney to the summit of Point Lachenal.
Descent - There are no fixed belays so you either need to carry your glacier kit up and over the summit, and then descend via the start of the Pointes Lachenal Traverse, or work across the crag to the top of the Contamine. There are numerous fixed abseil points on the main face and abseiling Harold et Maud and Contamine usually involves using belays on both routes to avoid rope snags and congestion on busy days. © Rockfax

G Margotat, P Sombardier 23/Aug/1978

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Giles Eperon 4 Jul AltLd Potentially not really on route...
with Holly, Felicity Eperon
Potentially not really on route...
with Holly, Felicity Eperon
Katekeltie 4 Jul AltLd O/S Did this as a day hit from the lift as Contamine route was so busy. No idea if we did the actual route- was tricky to match up the rock with the description. The walk off to join the top of the Contamine involved a short steep icy snow field- we slipped and slid down the whole thing, stopping when we hit a crevasse!
Did this as a day hit from the lift as Contamine route was so busy. No idea if we did the actual route- was tricky to match up the rock with the description. The walk off to join the top of the Contamine involved a short steep icy snow field- we slipped and slid down the whole thing, stopping when we hit a crevasse!
Hidden 4 Jul AltLd O/S
markalmack 4 Jul AltLd O/S Well we started on this route, fuck knows what we finished on. The guide book and reality seemed very different. Day hit from the valley. Slipped on the decent and slid down an ice snow slope pulling kate off with me. Finally got stopped by a crevasse! Slog back up to the midi was a cunt of the first order.
with Trouble Bird
Well we started on this route, fuck knows what we finished on. The guide book and reality seemed very different. Day hit from the valley. Slipped on the decent and slid down an ice snow slope pulling kate off with me. Finally got stopped by a crevasse! Slog back up to the midi was a cunt of the first order.
with Trouble Bird
Petarghh 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with nv
with nv
mzchambers 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S A wee bit off route. Was on the rides to the left and endes up a chimney to top out up on. A great wee explore with top climbing
A wee bit off route. Was on the rides to the left and endes up a chimney to top out up on. A great wee explore with top climbing
Hidden 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Roberttaylor 5 Aug, 2015 Lead
Hidden 5 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2015 AltLd
olekemi 3 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Nice varied climbing on cracks, offwidths and faces. In 9 pitches of 12 described, so some were strung together.
with Ken B, Martin F
Nice varied climbing on cracks, offwidths and faces. In 9 pitches of 12 described, so some were strung together.
with Ken B, Martin F
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 18 Jun, 2013 AltLd dnf
Hidden 7 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Prez 21 Jun, 2012 -
stevepotter 31 Jul, 2011 -
with Matt
with Matt
AnnaBacklund ?Jul, 2011 2nd
Misha ?Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Day hit from the valley. Pleasant crack climbing. Did it in big boots I think and with all the gear as that meant we court walk off the too. Seem to recall we just about got back for the last lift. With a Dutch guy called Pim while Irish Dave and his mate were doing the Meije traverse.
Day hit from the valley. Pleasant crack climbing. Did it in big boots I think and with all the gear as that meant we court walk off the too. Seem to recall we just about got back for the last lift. With a Dutch guy called Pim while Irish Dave and his mate were doing the Meije traverse.
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