8m.

Rockfax Description
8m. Start up Wild Thing but follow the impossibly-thin seam up the smooth slab to the right. Good but hard-earned small wires protect; they have been tested but this definitely isn't to be recommended. © Rockfax

FA. Andrew Woodward 1982

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List

Feedback

UserDateNotes
StuartM 5 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: "Youre not going to hang around there and fiddle that wire in when the tops only a move away." i did!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: "Youre not going to hang around there and fiddle that wire in when the tops only a move away." i did!!
simes303 10 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I agree. Youre not going to hang around there and fiddle that wire in when the tops only a move away.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree. Youre not going to hang around there and fiddle that wire in when the tops only a move away.
StuartM 27 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Nige M - sneaky side runner! think that might reduce the grade a tad. The routes Sheer Class though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nige M - sneaky side runner! think that might reduce the grade a tad. The routes Sheer Class though
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
smithjake16 5 May Solo O/S Followed the thin crack, I not sure if the route goes further to the right though
Followed the thin crack, I not sure if the route goes further to the right though
Lewis Perrin Williams 22 Mar Lead RP Will had a rope up on the slab so thought I'd give this a go on top rope, nice techy sequence so led it afterwards. Used a preplaced offset rp post-crux
Will had a rope up on the slab so thought I'd give this a go on top rope, nice techy sequence so led it afterwards. Used a preplaced offset rp post-crux
eazyclimbing 3 Jan Sent Two pads, perfect highball height, jumped twice before commiting.
Two pads, perfect highball height, jumped twice before commiting.
themattyshep 7 Oct, 2018 Sent rpt One year later!
with tghayne
One year later!
with tghayne
grady 5 Jun, 2018 Solo dnf Fell off with fingers in the seam and bruised my heel. Will be back!
Fell off with fingers in the seam and bruised my heel. Will be back!
James rogers86 12 Apr, 2018 Sent x Got it on my 4th attempt after a few Exciting falls from the top so stoked thought about trying it for years!
Got it on my 4th attempt after a few Exciting falls from the top so stoked thought about trying it for years!
themattyshep 9 Mar, 2018 Solo rpt Took a big lob from just below the top as started to pour down
Took a big lob from just below the top as started to pour down
Tom Last 8 Nov, 2017 Solo dnf Nice to make a start on this. Dialled the start anyway!
with Fiend
Nice to make a start on this. Dialled the start anyway!
with Fiend
themattyshep 6 Oct, 2017 Lead G/U Placed the RP’s from leaning in, two falls on the gear, solo would have been easier as the gear was in the way
Placed the RP’s from leaning in, two falls on the gear, solo would have been easier as the gear was in the way
Sam Marks 14 Feb, 2016 Lead G/U Bloody great
Bloody great
Hidden 14 Feb, 2016 Lead dnf
Benjamin Mitchell 14 Feb, 2016 Lead RP
with Sam Marks
with Sam Marks
Hidden 13 Feb, 2016 Sent dnf
Jake Young 13 Feb, 2016 Lead G/U
thomas108 ??, 2016 -
stvey 3 Aug, 2015 Sent dnf First session on this, pleased with high point. 4 pads used for landing which seemed OK. Good sequence figured for getting on slab now compared to when I did Wild thing.
First session on this, pleased with high point. 4 pads used for landing which seemed OK. Good sequence figured for getting on slab now compared to when I did Wild thing.
Andrew Abraham 14 May, 2014 TR dog Going to get this badger one day
with Ky
Going to get this badger one day
with Ky
nathanlee 22 Feb, 2014 Sent rpt
with Duncan Campbell, Rob Greenwood, BenNorman, al123
with Duncan Campbell, Rob Greenwood, BenNorman, al123
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 22 Feb, 2014 Solo
BenNorman 22 Feb, 2014 Solo β Very good beta here, felt pretty steady, great climbing, chuffed
with Crew, nathanlee
Very good beta here, felt pretty steady, great climbing, chuffed
with Crew, nathanlee
fennerz 22 Feb, 2014 Solo β
Ed Booth 22 Feb, 2014 Solo Ground up with pads. had 1 go and jumped off to test pads, then next go, slipped with fingers on top of crag, not sure why i fell off. next go did it. Awesome sequence!!
with Duncan, Bubbles, Nathan Lee, Benno Wagner, Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing, fennerz
Ground up with pads. had 1 go and jumped off to test pads, then next go, slipped with fingers on top of crag, not sure why i fell off. next go did it. Awesome sequence!!
with Duncan, Bubbles, Nathan Lee, Benno Wagner, Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing, fennerz
markalmack 29 Dec, 2013 Sent x
Ewano 22 Aug, 2013 Sent dnf Way too hot. Above 2 good pads and 2 bad pads. Definitely going back for it when it's cooler.
with peat
Way too hot. Above 2 good pads and 2 bad pads. Definitely going back for it when it's cooler.
with peat
Hidden 9 Jul, 2013 TR dnf
PeteWilson 25 Jun, 2013 Solo best line I will ever do. fantastic climbing, first E5, very happy!
with Hillson
best line I will ever do. fantastic climbing, first E5, very happy!
with Hillson
pipof747 10 May, 2013 Lead RP
Ky 8 Apr, 2013 TR RP
with Will Davies
with Will Davies
Ky 4 Apr, 2013 TR RP
with Stevie Hammond
with Stevie Hammond
sgl0jd ?Apr, 2013 Solo RP Snowballed
Snowballed
Harry Chaplin 2 Mar, 2013 Lead RP managed to place to reasonable looking wires
managed to place to reasonable looking wires
C coldwell-storry 17 Feb, 2013 Lead β
with rob lay
with rob lay
Andrew Jennings 2 Feb, 2013 Sent β
with Dan Mcmanus, Andy Reeve
with Dan Mcmanus, Andy Reeve
mark20 18 Nov, 2012 Sent β
Hidden 18 Nov, 2012 Solo
Hidden 18 Nov, 2012 Lead RP
al123 13 May, 2012 Solo Amazing climb, so so good. 4 pads, took the fall from where my fingers were 1cm from the top and skidded down the slab but it was fine. 4th or 5th go, just a amazing route.
Amazing climb, so so good. 4 pads, took the fall from where my fingers were 1cm from the top and skidded down the slab but it was fine. 4th or 5th go, just a amazing route.
Hidden 2 Mar, 2012 Solo RP
jacobjacob 26 Feb, 2012 Solo RP Second go ground up above pads.
Second go ground up above pads.
Ian Broome 14 Jan, 2012 Sent ground up with pads. Special route.
ground up with pads. Special route.
Ky ??, 2012 -
maddy.c ??, 2012 Sent first go
first go
Ram MkiV 29 Jan, 2011 Lead initially bouldered up and did a couple of controlled jump offs - one from quite high where I realised how good the small wire placement is (which made me inclined to use it). Placed the wire from reaching down from the top, then sketched it out first go with a rope on after that. Class micro route, brilliant fun.
with Guy & Oaks
initially bouldered up and did a couple of controlled jump offs - one from quite high where I realised how good the small wire placement is (which made me inclined to use it). Placed the wire from reaching down from the top, then sketched it out first go with a rope on after that. Class micro route, brilliant fun.
with Guy & Oaks
Hidden 29 Jan, 2011 Solo dnf
harvie 22 Jan, 2011 Solo
Hidden ??, 2011 Solo
Mr Wild 14 Nov, 2010 Solo ground up, pads 1 fall
ground up, pads 1 fall
Hidden 30 Oct, 2010 Sent
Richard Hall 24 Oct, 2010 Solo β Amazing. Flash with pads and good foot work beta. Never done anything like this before, loved it.
Amazing. Flash with pads and good foot work beta. Never done anything like this before, loved it.
Tom Briggs 24 Oct, 2010 Solo rpt
with Rachel Briggs
with Rachel Briggs
thrutch 17 Oct, 2010 Lead dog
with Sven
with Sven
nathanlee 25 Sep, 2010 Lead Ground up - Excellent!
Ground up - Excellent!
dominic lee 25 Sep, 2010 Lead β
simeclimb68 1 Sep, 2010 TR dog
sgl0jd 1 Sep, 2010 TR I'll have to come back on a colder day. My foot kept pinging rather unpredictably off the crux
I'll have to come back on a colder day. My foot kept pinging rather unpredictably off the crux
northy1983 ??, 2010 Solo super prob
super prob
sam8oy 8 Sep, 2007 TR RP Those thin seams are tricky little things!
with John
Those thin seams are tricky little things!
with John
nathanmanc 4 Feb, 2007 Solo RP
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Solo Ground up. 1 fall onto a mat from the crux. Contender for the best micro-route, along with Tierdrop.
Ground up. 1 fall onto a mat from the crux. Contender for the best micro-route, along with Tierdrop.
Hidden 21 Sep, 2004 Solo RP
mark s ??, 2003 Lead
Gus 3 Jul, 2001 Lead
nige ??, 2000 Lead RP
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead β
Hidden 1 Jul, 1999 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 20 Sep, 1998 Lead
with tim lowe
with tim lowe
Jon Read ?Oct, 1997 Lead rpt
with Matt Gallagher
with Matt Gallagher
simes303 ??, 1995 Solo RP No cheating pads.
No cheating pads.
Jon Read ?Jul, 1992 Solo RP Pre-mats.
with Roger Peppe
Pre-mats.
with Roger Peppe
mark mcgowan01 ?May, 1986 -
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1986 -
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Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Bouldered
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Onsighted
Not Set