Rockfax Description
8m. Start up Wild Thing but follow the impossibly-thin seam up the smooth slab to the right. Good but hard-earned small wires protect; they have been tested but this definitely isn't to be recommended. © Rockfax

FA. Andrew Woodward 1982

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

themattyshep 06/Oct Lead G/U

Placed the RP’s from leaning in, two falls on the gear, solo would have been easier as the gear was in the way

Sam Marks 14/Feb/16 Lead G/U

Bloody great

Hidden 14/Feb/16 Lead dnf
Benjamin Mitchell 14/Feb/16 Lead RP
with Sam Marks
Wood for Trees 13/Feb/16 Sent dnf

very fun

with crew
Jake Young 13/Feb/16 Lead G/U
thomas108 ??/2016 -
stvey 03/Aug/15 Sent dnf

First session on this, pleased with high point. 4 pads used for landing which seemed OK. Good sequence figured for getting on slab now compared to when I did Wild thing.

Andrew Abraham 14/May/14 TR dog

Going to get this badger one day

with Ky
nathanlee 22/Feb/14 Sent rpt
with Duncan Campbell, Rob Greenwood, Ben Norman, Emlyn James
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 22/Feb/14 Solo
BenNorman 22/Feb/14 Solo β

Very good beta here, felt pretty steady, great climbing, chuffed

with Crew, Nathan Lee
fennerz 22/Feb/14 Solo β
Ed Booth 22/Feb/14 Solo

Ground up with pads. had 1 go and jumped off to test pads, then next go, slipped with fingers on top of crag, not sure why i fell off. next go did it. Awesome sequence!!

with Duncan, Bubbles, Nathan Lee, Benno Wagner, Rob Greenwood, Fennerz
markalmack 29/Dec/13 Sent x
Ewano 22/Aug/13 Sent dnf

Way too hot. Above 2 good pads and 2 bad pads. Definitely going back for it when it's cooler.

Hidden 09/Jul/13 TR dnf
PeteWilson 25/Jun/13 Solo

best line I will ever do. fantastic climbing, first E5, very happy!

pipof747 10/May/13 Lead RP
Ky 08/Apr/13 TR RP
with Will Davies
Ky 04/Apr/13 TR RP
with Stevie Hammond
sgl0jd ?/Apr/13 Solo RP


Harry Chaplin 02/Mar/13 Lead RP

managed to place to reasonable looking wires

C coldwell-storry 17/Feb/13 Lead β
with rob lay
Andrew Jennings 02/Feb/13 Sent β
with Dan Mcmanus, Andy Reeve
mark20 18/Nov/12 Sent β
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Solo
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead RP
al123 13/May/12 Solo

Amazing climb, so so good. 4 pads, took the fall from where my fingers were 1cm from the top and skidded down the slab but it was fine. 4th or 5th go, just a amazing route.

Hidden 02/Mar/12 Solo RP
jacobjacob 26/Feb/12 Solo RP

Second go ground up above pads.

Ian Broome 14/Jan/12 Sent

ground up with pads. Special route.

Ky ??/2012 -
maddy.c ??/2012 Sent

first go

Ram MkiV 29/Jan/11 Lead

initially bouldered up and did a couple of controlled jump offs - one from quite high where I realised how good the small wire placement is (which made me inclined to use it). Placed the wire from reaching down from the top, then sketched it out first go with a rope on after that. Class micro route, brilliant fun.

with Guy & Oaks
Wood for Trees 29/Jan/11 Solo dnf

easy fall but a scary proposition, will be back with more pads or a wire to lead

with noaks and stephen
harvie 22/Jan/11 Solo
Hidden ??/2011 Solo
Mr Wild 14/Nov/10 Solo

ground up, pads 1 fall

edinbed 30/Oct/10 Sent
Richard Hall 24/Oct/10 Solo β

Amazing. Flash with pads and good foot work beta. Never done anything like this before, loved it.

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 24/Oct/10 Solo rpt
with Rachel Briggs
thrutch 17/Oct/10 Lead dog
with Sven
nathanlee 25/Sep/10 Lead

Ground up - Excellent!

with Dom Lee
dominic lee 25/Sep/10 Lead β
simeclimb68 01/Sep/10 TR dog
sgl0jd 01/Sep/10 TR

I'll have to come back on a colder day. My foot kept pinging rather unpredictably off the crux

northy1983 ??/2010 Solo

super prob

sam8oy 08/Sep/07 TR RP

Those thin seams are tricky little things!

with John
nathanmanc 04/Feb/07 Solo RP
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Solo

Ground up. 1 fall onto a mat from the crux. Contender for the best micro-route, along with Tierdrop.

Hidden 21/Sep/04 Solo RP
mark s ??/2003 Lead
Gus 03/Jul/01 Lead
nige ??/2000 Lead RP
with mark hounslea
Hidden ??/2000 Lead β
Hidden 01/Jul/99 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 20/Sep/98 Lead
with tim lowe
Jon Read ?/Oct/97 Lead rpt
with Matt Gallagher
simes303 ??/1995 Solo RP

No cheating pads.

Jon Read ?/Jul/92 Solo RP


with Roger Peppe
mark mcgowan01 ?/May/86 -
mark mcgowan01 ??/1986 -
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 29
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set