Rockfax Description
10m. The flake that runs up the right edge of the buttress is the substance of the route. Reach it with difficulty (hard for everybody and especially so for the short - E2) and sprint up it by quality barn-door layback moves. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A potentially very good route. E1 if you can place cams from the ledge, E3 otherwise. 5c if you can reach the undercuts from the ledge, 6a otherwise.

FA. Gary Gibson 1978

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge.

Lottie T 12/Aug 2nd dog

Couldn't stretch straight up to the roof in the middle. Found a crystal out left which was useful in taking a little weight off the right side-pull to stand up onto the right foot and get to a small rail with the left hand first. Great fun :)

Hidden 12/Aug 2nd dog
Jack J Keogan 12/Aug Lead O/S
Rob Laird 07/Aug Lead O/S

I could just about place cams with my feet on the ledge, but had to make an off balance move or 2 before I could reach the good holds

with B Sosin
mr random 07/Aug 2nd

A long reach for the tall an impossible one for the short without a bold and committing move up to the overhang to place gear. A of combination of thin face holds and thin side pulls get you up there, desperate.

fuzzysheep01 01/Jul Lead O/S

Felt hard for 5c and hard for E1. Placing gear from half way through crux move was desperate - the move itself not desperate once gear was in. Excellent moves - both boulder problem start and main crux section.

with Nono
Nono 01/Jul 2nd

The pure definition of high foot.

Alan James - UKC and UKH 03/Jun Lead
with Luke Green, Dominic Green
Dominic Green 03/Jun Lead
Quarryboy 07/May Lead O/S
with Nottingham University climbing club, Alkis Tsapanidis, Elias Khoury
Gordon W 07/May Lead O/S

Thought it was quite hard and a long reach

with Alkis
Alkis 07/May 2nd β
Fraser hill-casey 07/May 2nd O/S
jimlear ??/2017 Lead β
Hidden 29/Nov/16 Lead
Stroppy 19/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with SUMC
DanChad 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Andrew Abraham, Paul Deane
lost.arrow 09/Oct/16 TR
ollyrowe 09/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Kinge 17/Sep/16 TR
Anti-faff 11/Sep/16 Lead dnf
with Jas Wood
Senna 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Ned
ned_85 04/Sep/16 2nd
Andrew Abraham 24/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Simon Davis 18/Jun/16 2nd
with Andrew James
Felix la shat 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Tim Rodgers 08/May/16 2nd
Neil McA 29/Dec/15 2nd rpt
with Simon Nadin, Jake McAdie
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
will9911 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Toms first e1 lead.

with Tom Hudson
Hidden 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
TomRiddelsdell 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

At 5"8 this was a real struggle. Just about managed to place the cam from the ledge with terrible hand holds. Probably wouldn't have commited to the next move without it

islandlynx 05/Sep/15 Lead β

On toms gear

Matt77 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Horton, Tom Riddelsdell, Shane
bencole ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden 21/Jun/15 2nd O/S
bigdrew 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Eve
duncan 30/May/15 Lead O/S
Chris_barr 10/May/15 Lead
with Gus
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
jamesgodwin64 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Done in strange September sun, greasy and quite crimpy in places had me going a little for sure but still a good route.

with John Cooper
Hidden 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
John Higgs 31/Aug/14 Lead dnf
Rosie Henstock 22/Jul/14 2nd

A certain amount of pulling me up by the rope was done to gain the underside of the flake

TGreen 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Andrew Abraham 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Sam Riley, Ceara
Ceara 01/Jun/14 2nd dog

lots more practise before I can lead!!!

with Andrew
Andrew Abraham 18/May/14 2nd
Chriswallis2 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Paul Stoke, Andy Stoke
Hidden 15/May/14 2nd O/S
Cake 24/Apr/14 Lead

Not that hard for me at 6'

with Matt
Hidden 24/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 02/Feb/14 Lead β
Ed carrigan 02/Feb/14 Lead O/S
robertmctague ??/2014 Lead β
msoldn 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic technical climbing. Arms felt like they were pulling out of shoulder sockets on stretch up to undercut. Getting up to flake best done with high foot out right and using crimps on face, not too bad that way.

with Adele, Dave Wynne-Jones
simonfilson 25/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 23/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with George
bwestwood 10/Nov/13 2nd
with pete sargeant
philhilo 26/Oct/13 Lead dog

J...s - fell off an E1 :-( Not been on E grade grit for .... a number of years so forgotten the dark arts, and this requires the 'how to use a selection of not much to rise up the wall'. Good moves when I sorted it.

with Helen E
benny_m 05/Oct/13 TR O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 TR O/S
ChrisBrooke 05/Oct/13 2nd
with Nick Barratt
mike lawrence? 26/Sep/13 2nd
with Ali, luca
Ali.B 22/Sep/13 2nd

i wish i was taller

with mikelawrence
deacondeacon 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

As others have said, would be hard for the short. I managed to get a couple of cams in before attempting the crux but was a very tenuous move. I'm 5'8" and coul just reach the undercut part of the flake when rocking over. The top is quite spicy too. Quality route.

Karl Wooffindin 26/Aug/13 2nd
with Andrew Deacon
Hidden 18/Aug/13 TR O/S
Jordanh031 27/Jun/13 Lead
WillDoyle 24/Jun/13 2nd
with Mike
Alistair Corbett 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Mike
RichyBOYY 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead dog
MichaelGallimore 27/May/13 TR dog

Tried to lead, couldn't reach the overlap to place gear or get a finger jam. Tried traversing left and placed cam and finger lockers in middle of roof, and rightward traverse back on route. Too short (5'5") so bailed out up safety net. Afterwards top roped, fell off 10 times, finally made the move with a far high right foot. Not something i'll try on lead in a hurry.

with Rob, MikeR
PeteWilson 27/Feb/13 Lead O/S

hard work placing the gear for the crux, awesome technical bit of climbing though!

Hillson 27/Feb/13 Lead
Hidden 17/Feb/13 TR dog
JayAyBee ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Pat
saffy ??/2013 -
admackie ??/2013 -
joeflan 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

If ukc had a category for "Lead - Lanked" I would deserve it

with ah
julesmckim 06/Oct/12 Lead

Loooong stretch to plug in a cam overhead!

with dave lewis
timmsy 15/Sep/12 2nd

pulled on rope, told jack where crimp was. 1st route back since may injury

with Neil
Alex Winter 22/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Saul
Souljah 28/Jul/12 Lead

Committing, but worth it

with Andi T
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead rpt
WillDoyle 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Just about managed to reach the crucial gear in before committing to the crux

Ross Barnes 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Neil A
Neil Adams 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ross B
ed woods 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
gaz.marshall 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Eddie
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead dog
northy1983 ??/2012 Lead
with david h
Ky ??/2012 -
Lunar25 01/Nov/11 Lead O/S

long reach for the undercut on the overhang, easy for my ape arms :D

with Pete nurse climber
tebs 26/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Ok route.Lank helps, I found the moves laybacking around the bulge quite pressing. Judicious use of a knee helped.

with Sam, Tim
James Oswald 26/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Tough but nice moves. A weird bit at the top where all the holds face sideways..

stephenhartley 27/Sep/11 2nd
with Burns
mark20 04/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Sam W 24/Jul/11 -

This route would be both hard to protect and climb if you are much below 6'

richardr 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Felt like a hard 6a move to get to the flake for me. 5'7"

Graeme Hammond 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S

luckily the crux under the roof stays dry in the rain. Good climbing well worth its two stars, must be much bolder for anyone short!

clive-greenwood 21/May/11 Lead dog
with Dave Clarke
OMSKB 17/May/11 TR
with Richard Winfield
galpinos 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sam
chrissyboy ?/May/11 2nd
with Jim Lear
will9911 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Mikael 20/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead
Pete Graham 19/Jan/11 Lead
HowieB ??/2011 Lead
djking1983 14/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Mark Dennison 12/Dec/10 Lead rpt

Took a flyer of this trying to place gear for crux move. - ripped out gear and bent a crab - second attempt went much better

donkster 12/Dec/10 2nd rpt
with mark
maggsy 17/Oct/10 TR
scotty h 17/Oct/10 TR dnf

nice route but i need new shoes

with Matt Reynolds, Alex Maggs
donkster 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with jus
bobpilgrem 09/Sep/10 TR O/S
with Bob/Nic
tigertim 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 08/Sep/10 2nd rpt
jiles 23/Jul/10 2nd dog
with Alex Winter
Alex Winter 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Similar style to Safety Net but harder and better

Mark D 19/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/10 2nd O/S
zerocool_jj2000 23/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Helped being 6ft4!

NeilGriffiths 18/Apr/10 Lead
with Dom, Adam
A Crook 18/Apr/10 2nd
rikbattye ?/Mar/10 Solo
gingerwolf 13/Dec/09 Lead dog

Lead with gear in

climbergg 19/Sep/09 2nd
Tim M 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Emma
PeteH 16/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Not sure if I did this right... The photo-topo is from really far away in the guidebook. I only found gear in a low break, meaning a groundfall from the base of the flake (where the next gear was) - wasn't willing to take the chance so downclimbed to the ground. Not sure how this can be E1 5c with potential groundfall like that.

spacey 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 02/Aug/09 -
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead dnf
craig d 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Tough for E1

with Simon Kincaid
Hidden 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S
mulletcocktail2000 07/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with john
caradoc 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S

View at- http://youtu.be/ZShQpZ1c1xw

with nick yapp
jored ?/Apr/09 -
with Ryan
Dan 85 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Mark
Martin Cooper 24/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Stan Halstead
Hidden 19/Oct/08 2nd dog
ASchwirtz 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
kitkat78 11/Oct/08 2nd
with SteveM
SteveM 11/Oct/08 Lead dnf
with Kat
snakebite 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Becki Blackshaw
metal arms 20/Sep/08 Lead dog

Led up on ev's gear and still sat on it twice.

Steve Banham 10/Feb/08 Lead dog

Fell off while stood there!

The old James turnbull ?/Feb/08 Lead
with aiden
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Billg ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Alisdair Pettifer
kingholmesy ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Brian
Jack Symmons 16/Sep/07 Lead

Finger tip reach to place pro. Excellent

with Chris T
Mike W 25/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Martin
mattyork2 04/Feb/07 2nd
Birdo ??/2007 -
with Dave Bird
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Si dH 04/Nov/06 2nd O/S

I reckon I'd have bee npretty scared going for the flake if I'd been leading this (couldnt reach it from the break), although perhaps not too hard for 5c?

with Neil Furniss
dan gibson 07/Oct/06 2nd
with AJ
AJ007 07/Oct/06 Lead dog
with Dan
Hidden 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
adam carless 17/Sep/06 2nd O/S

Definitely hard for the short, nasty moves on poor crimps, and a fairly offputting finish too.

gregoritos ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Rampikino 02/Jul/06 Lead
with Ian & Liam
Hidden 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/06 2nd
Andrew Abraham ??/2006 Lead dog

Fell off just after placing gear

Boy ??/2006 -
AngelaC 29/Aug/05 2nd
FrankW 11/Aug/05 TR O/S
with My Shunt
Stig 25/May/05 2nd dog
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Rachael Barlow 01/May/05 2nd
with Pete Robins
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
mark s ??/2005 Solo
Hidden 18/Jul/04 2nd
Coel Hellier ??/2004 Lead
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Easier for the tall!!

cem 14/Jun/03 Lead rpt
with Rod Strachan
Rob Davies 01/Jun/03 TR

Very long reach

with David Kinniburgh
Hidden 04/May/02 Lead O/S
Gus ??/2002 -
cem 23/Sep/01 Lead dog
jonka ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Lead
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/99 Lead
antroy 10/May/99 2nd
Chris Murray 10/Jul/98 Lead
with Richard Bower
Rob Kinsey ??/1998 Lead
craig h 15/Feb/97 Lead O/S
with Phil B
Hidden ?/Apr/96 Lead O/S
nige ??/1996 Lead
with john buckley
robtrooper ??/1996 -
crossleysm ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Scott McRae 30/Apr/95 Lead β
with Steve Lucas
Scott McRae 29/Apr/95 TR O/S
with Steve Lucas
nai ??/1995 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/93 Lead
Chris Reid ?/May/93 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 24/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
The Reaper 14/Apr/93 TR O/S


andrew300169 01/Apr/92 Lead dnf
with Tim
teespaddler ??/1992 2nd

Late in the day, i was knackered.

with Al George
Rich Kirby 04/Nov/90 Lead
with Joanne Jowett
sadams 31/Aug/90 2nd
with Mark Bonham
OMSKB ?/Apr/90 TR
with John Roberts
goi.ashmore 11/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Richard France, Andy Joyce
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Roget 22/Jul/89 Lead O/S
with jim
Gambit 16/Jul/89 Lead O/S
with Barney
Hidden 20/May/89 Lead
Hidden 07/May/89 Lead
Hidden 26/May/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/84 Lead
Hidden 10/May/82 Lead
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 47
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set