Rockfax Description
The original classic has become polished over the years. It is still worth doing but be prepared for a slippery time. Start from a narrow grassy ledge above and left of the large tree growing left of the toe of the buttress.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the glossy flake-crack then step right onto a short, steep, shattered wall above (some suspect holds). Step out right and belay left of a large pinnacle.
2) 4b, 26m. Climb to the top of the pinnacle, then slide up the shiny crack to a possible stance. Climb the pleasant ramp, in a superb situation, to finish up the grassy groove. Belay on the ledge on the right or find a well-hidden iron spike in the grass. © Rockfax
FA. D.Johnson, D.Mellor 1960.
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , 2016 Targets , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
supermembrane | 19 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Reasonably fun route but probably worth 1 star not 3. Not sure why it is VS. More like HS. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Reasonably fun route but probably worth 1 star not 3. Not sure why it is VS. More like HS. |
||||
Anvil.Chorus | 19 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: New BMC guide maybe off route at the start compared to 1980s BMC guide. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: New BMC guide maybe off route at the start compared to 1980s BMC guide. |
||||
alasdair.scott | 30 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Evidence of Peregrines nesting at the belay, although it appears they are fully fledged and have left now. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Evidence of Peregrines nesting at the belay, although it appears they are fully fledged and have left now. |
||||
nick w | 13 Jun, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: nesting birds next to the belay stance 2 days ago,thought it was a bit chossy.3 stars? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: nesting birds next to the belay stance 2 days ago,thought it was a bit chossy.3 stars? |
||||
craigswoods | 15 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: First 4 metres or so of the first pitch were good. Quite loose and chossy after that. Second pitch was ncie though | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First 4 metres or so of the first pitch were good. Quite loose and chossy after that. Second pitch was ncie though |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)