16m.
Rockfax Description
A well-named slab route, which is desperate to figure out, and almost as hard to climb. Follow the hairline weakness in the left-hand side of the slab to the bulge and pass this phlegmatically. Side runners can be used but they aren't much help. © Rockfax
FA. Johnny Woodward, Andrew Woodward 1976.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andrew Barker | 22 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: My first E5. I headpointed this on Wednesday and thought it was an awesome line. It'd definitely be tricky to onsight, even for someone who is solid at E5 as it's not easy to read. A monster reach would definitely make the first crux move easier but might make the ones after feel harder. I lead it without side-runners (the book says they're in at the grade) and placed the gear on the lead - you definitely wouldn't want to fall off the crux! A side runner would probably stop you from decking which makes me wonder whether the grade would change without side runners - anyone else done it and have any ideas? | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: My first E5. I headpointed this on Wednesday and thought it was an awesome line. It'd definitely be tricky to onsight, even for someone who is solid at E5 as it's not easy to read. A monster reach would definitely make the first crux move easier but might make the ones after feel harder. I lead it without side-runners (the book says they're in at the grade) and placed the gear on the lead - you definitely wouldn't want to fall off the crux! A side runner would probably stop you from decking which makes me wonder whether the grade would change without side runners - anyone else done it and have any ideas? |
||||
Logged Ascents
10 users have logged this
Guidebooks for Staden Quarry
Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 7 users have this on their wishlist
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Tales of Yankee Power
Grade: E5 6a ***
(High Tor)