16m.

Rockfax Description
A well-named slab route, which is desperate to figure out, and almost as hard to climb. Follow the hairline weakness in the left-hand side of the slab to the central bulge, and pass this phlegmatically. The grade is for side-runners, although it was originally climbed without and given E2! High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Johnny Woodward, Andrew Woodward 1976

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Andrew Barker 22 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: My first E5. I headpointed this on Wednesday and thought it was an awesome line. It'd definitely be tricky to onsight, even for someone who is solid at E5 as it's not easy to read. A monster reach would definitely make the first crux move easier but might make the ones after feel harder. I lead it without side-runners (the book says they're in at the grade) and placed the gear on the lead - you definitely wouldn't want to fall off the crux! A side runner would probably stop you from decking which makes me wonder whether the grade would change without side runners - anyone else done it and have any ideas?
 
Show beta
βeta: My first E5. I headpointed this on Wednesday and thought it was an awesome line. It'd definitely be tricky to onsight, even for someone who is solid at E5 as it's not easy to read. A monster reach would definitely make the first crux move easier but might make the ones after feel harder. I lead it without side-runners (the book says they're in at the grade) and placed the gear on the lead - you definitely wouldn't want to fall off the crux! A side runner would probably stop you from decking which makes me wonder whether the grade would change without side runners - anyone else done it and have any ideas?
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Gambit 23 May TR dog Having headpointed a couple of grit E5s this year, I found this to be a totally different ball game with moves I could not, prior to getting any gear. Or to put it another way, I've had a lot easier Games of Chess
with Alone
Having headpointed a couple of grit E5s this year, I found this to be a totally different ball game with moves I could not, prior to getting any gear. Or to put it another way, I've had a lot easier Games of Chess
with Alone
Rory_Cummings_NI 1 Aug, 2017 TR dog
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 Lead RP
Andrew Barker ?Jul, 2006 Lead RP My 1st E5 - awesome route, deserves 2 stars. Headpointed it. Rockfax guide says side runners are in a the grade but I didn't use them.
with Tom Ramsden
My 1st E5 - awesome route, deserves 2 stars. Headpointed it. Rockfax guide says side runners are in a the grade but I didn't use them.
with Tom Ramsden
robtrooper ??, 1995 Lead O/S
robtrooper ??, 1995 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 May, 1991 2nd
Chris Wright 27 Oct, 1985 Lead O/S
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