UKC

28m.

Rockfax Description
Excellent, the best of its grade here, following the sinuous crack-line that runs the full height of the face. A steep and technical start leads to easier sustained climbing (threads) and on up pleasantly sustained rock above. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Dearman (2 pts) 1969.

Ticklists

Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , The Eal List

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User Date Notes
Rob M 14 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A very special climb & the perfect partner. For some reason I thought it was only a VS 4c on the way there, when I saw it & was told the grade I thought "I can't do that!" So I lead the one near the arete for a warm up then gave it a go. It went & I don't know if it was just because of my reach or initial fear & level of concentration but it's not a 5b! Possibly only just a HVS also given the perfect positions for wires, perhaps it gets it due to the pollish on the first few foot placements but a quality route & very enjoyable none the less.
Show beta
βeta: A very special climb & the perfect partner. For some reason I thought it was only a VS 4c on the way there, when I saw it & was told the grade I thought "I can't do that!" So I lead the one near the arete for a warm up then gave it a go. It went & I don't know if it was just because of my reach or initial fear & level of concentration but it's not a 5b! Possibly only just a HVS also given the perfect positions for wires, perhaps it gets it due to the pollish on the first few foot placements but a quality route & very enjoyable none the less.
Fidget 6 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: What a great route! I fell off near the start - used the wrong foothold which was a little polished and reached up too far for a pocket so my foot slipped, but when I found a more useful foothold it was all go from there. I still feel like I led a whole route, as it's so long! The first half is great, and right on the edge of my ability - I was trying to use my feet as well as I could to take the weight off my arms and stop me getting too pumped, but it took all I had to keep going until the rest on the ledge, the holds got bigger and bigger approaching it but I was less and less able to use them! I had to wait for ages to get back my feeling then my strength (all my fingers tendond still feel tweaked) before I carried on. There's an easy section with cool rock, then some more thoughtful bits as Souljah said (although I didn't do any of the high footwork mentioned, quite unlike me in fact). The gear is perfect too, in fact I have no reason to fault this route at all!
βeta?
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βeta: What a great route! I fell off near the start - used the wrong foothold which was a little polished and reached up too far for a pocket so my foot slipped, but when I found a more useful foothold it was all go from there. I still feel like I led a whole route, as it's so long! The first half is great, and right on the edge of my ability - I was trying to use my feet as well as I could to take the weight off my arms and stop me getting too pumped, but it took all I had to keep going until the rest on the ledge, the holds got bigger and bigger approaching it but I was less and less able to use them! I had to wait for ages to get back my feeling then my strength (all my fingers tendond still feel tweaked) before I carried on. There's an easy section with cool rock, then some more thoughtful bits as Souljah said (although I didn't do any of the high footwork mentioned, quite unlike me in fact). The gear is perfect too, in fact I have no reason to fault this route at all!
Souljah 17 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A nice technical start then eases into a long enjoyable climb with some big pockets and high footwork. Another tricky move 3/4 of the way up wakes you up for the top-out.
βeta?
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βeta: A nice technical start then eases into a long enjoyable climb with some big pockets and high footwork. Another tricky move 3/4 of the way up wakes you up for the top-out.
mat_galvin 17 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Great pro. Great location!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Great pro. Great location!
Chris the Tall 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, crux at the start, so you can enjoy the rest of route in comfort
βeta?
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βeta: Great route, crux at the start, so you can enjoy the rest of route in comfort
Dave Mason 26 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Thoroughly enjoyable route
βeta?
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βeta: Thoroughly enjoyable route
Ropeboy 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A very good line, worth all 3 of it's stars.
βeta?
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βeta: A very good line, worth all 3 of it's stars.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 177
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 174
Votes cast 173
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Original Route

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(High Tor)

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