UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
Fine sustained tufa climbing; technical and balancy despite its steepness. Climb the wall via a couple of bulges to an open groove and easier ground. © Rockfax

FA. Phil Burke, George Cooper 1981.

Ticklists

World Graded List , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , UK Flowstone

Feedback

User Date Notes
Longsufferingropeholder 10 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: If I didn't feel pumped, it's not pumpy. Loads of obvious, quick to place gear. Enough places to shake out if you look for the feet. This is E2.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If I didn't feel pumped, it's not pumpy. Loads of obvious, quick to place gear. Enough places to shake out if you look for the feet. This is E2.
John H Bull 3 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Darius? Scoop Wall? Widely reckoned to be E3 if comments on this database are anything to go by.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Darius? Scoop Wall? Widely reckoned to be E3 if comments on this database are anything to go by.
soph 19 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Just thought I would add that this route is very safe with easy to place gear - as placments are quite worn. It is def sustained with no real rests - but very nice climbing too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just thought I would add that this route is very safe with easy to place gear - as placments are quite worn. It is def sustained with no real rests - but very nice climbing too.
Fiend 10 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Good route that could do with a pumpy symbol, because it is. Intricate climbing and some great rock features.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route that could do with a pumpy symbol, because it is. Intricate climbing and some great rock features.
phatlad 6 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: not hard E2 just E2, never seen E3 in it's life
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: not hard E2 just E2, never seen E3 in it's life
John2 5 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I only seconded this one, but I agree with what the previous comment says - solid E3 and hard work getting the gear in and out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I only seconded this one, but I agree with what the previous comment says - solid E3 and hard work getting the gear in and out.
John H Bull 4 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Seemed solid E3 to me. Hard to get the crucial gear, no real rests, sustained, crux when you're pumped, all those things say E3. Downgrading the 'amenable E2s' eg Captain Reliable seems more appropriate.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seemed solid E3 to me. Hard to get the crucial gear, no real rests, sustained, crux when you're pumped, all those things say E3. Downgrading the 'amenable E2s' eg Captain Reliable seems more appropriate.
Katya 14 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah, but it is only a hard E2 in reality - easier than Scoop Wall etc and plenty of others... Just E3 compared to Stadens ameanable E2's
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yeah, but it is only a hard E2 in reality - easier than Scoop Wall etc and plenty of others... Just E3 compared to Stadens ameanable E2's
Carl Smethurst 3 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: In the 1987 Stoney guide, this was reckoned to be the 4th hardest _E3_ at Staden.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In the 1987 Stoney guide, this was reckoned to be the 4th hardest _E3_ at Staden.

Logged Ascents

452 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Staden Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book

Guidebook Correction

Peak Limestone (2020)

Alan James - Rockfax
22 Apr, 2022

Topo has line for Cathy's Clown and Liquid Courage too far to the right

View correction image
29 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 109
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 106
Votes cast 101
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Armageddon

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

Loading Notifications...