Rockfax Description
A great, historical classic that traditionally involves a tension traverse on P2. The route is HVS if done this way and many prefer to use the original method as Joe Brown himself believes this retains the "original spirit of adventure".
1) 4a, 25m. Follow Sunset Crack to a stance below the corner by a manky thread.
2) 5c (5a), 20m. Delicately foot traverse a slopy ledge right to a groove. Move up the groove which leads up to a ledge on the rib. Traverse right below the overlap into a corner then pull up and right through the roof. Follow the good holds above and right to a spike. Descend slightly and, either make a technical traverse across right, or, using tension off the spike, pull yourself across to a belay ledge with pegs and wires.
3) 4c, 15m. Move up and right to gain and follow a crack. Make hard moves up to gain the base of a corner to a possible belay, although it is common to link this into the next pitch.
4) 4c, 18m. Climb the corner to a ledge on the right and then move left into a crack. This leads to a belay on a ledge just below the Green Gallery.
5) 4a, 5m. Climb up the short wall/crack to reach the terrace. Either escape off rightwards, or head up to climb Pinnacle Arete. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST.

RKirke 26/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
CraigOsborne 26/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

1 and 3

Stroppy 26/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Nice wet streak on the crux - although the non-crux pitches felt equally as hard!!!

BRoe 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with CRAIG!
joedean 18/Jun/17 AltLd
ianstevens 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

P2, no tension, just climbing. Joe ran top 3 together.

joeflan 17/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
alastairparkin 17/Jun/17 AltLd β

Awesome. Followed joes tutelage at crux, stoked. p1 & 3

with joeflan
Dan724 16/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Serena Brotherton
Hidden 24/May/17 AltLd O/S
JackM92 10/May/17 AltLd O/S

Middle pitch quality, top sections green and lichenous.

Climbingspike ??/2017 -
JendeHoxar 18/Sep/16 AltLd
with Pati
Hidden 17/Sep/16 AltLd
Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Francois R 27/Aug/16 AltLd

Very good route, with 4 short pitches though. Pitches 3 and 4 could be merged. 5+.

with Jason
Ewan Russell 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Climbed p2

with Luke, Kelly
LDudill 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

First route on cloggy. Me p1. Ewan p2. Did the tension traverse instead of free ! Felt hard at 5c! I did p3,4,5 into one long pitch to the top, felt like HVS 4c as one long pitch!

with Ewan, Kelly campbell
DaveThexton 16/Aug/16 AltLd
with Tom, josh
Hidden 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/16 AltLd
Dan0Me 19/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Moritz L 19/Jul/16 AltLd dog

Struggled on the last move of the downclimb

jon_gill1 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Mj did P1 & p3, I did p2 free, very hard moves on traverse and JR did p4 &p5 in one.

with john ripley, martin johnson
ripper 05/Jun/16 AltLd

didn't enjoy this route as much as I thought I would - and only partly because of the midge swarms

Hidden 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Free version

mark4344 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Climbed 5c pitch free.

with Mark jackson
mjackson 05/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Jun/16 AltLd
with Westy
jezb1 17/May/16 AltLd

P2 and climbed crux free. Awesome.

Antony Mariani ??/2016 Lead O/S

Climbed free

with Jacek
Hidden ??/2016 AltLd
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Matt77 03/Oct/15 AltLd dog

Fell off the crux move after reading it all wrong. A bit of a cloudy, cold day on Cloggy

with Owen
Owen W-G 03/Oct/15 AltLd rpt

7 teams on Cloggy in October. Grimly cold, took ages incl descent, such an intimidating crag. Freed crux on second, felt 6a

with Matt B
Mackinclimb 02/Oct/15 AltLd

Fell off crux. Very out of character with the rest of the route. Good fun though, and pretty safe. Probably only justifies 2 stars.

Michael Morrell 02/Sep/15 AltLd dog

Nails route, friend fell of the traverse.

dan ely 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S

1 pitch with a single. AWWw! I didnt wanna let the strong american down. I did a bit of a direct version to miss out the shitty crux which still felt like a hard but better e2. Actually part of Opening Bid

with dave chew
Hidden 23/May/15 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
Paul ablitt 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
lanky 08/Sep/14 AltLd
with Crook
Bulls Crack ?/Jul/14 AltLd β

I agree with Joe, a much better route with a tension move rather than what we did first time around!

with SP
john lynch 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant line, loved the downwards traversey bit

with Tommy
Hidden 20/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/14 AltLd
Martin Bagshaw 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Tried the traverse about 4 times but just couldn't work it out. Judging from photos on here, I might have gone a bit too high, but shit at slab, so whatever. Carried on to the corner instead.

with Bryan Clary
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Dave Woodcock
mike mo ??/2014 -
Bob ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
pie_eater_pete 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with bwestwood
cbeard 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great moves through the traverse crux. Shame about the fiddly gear on the belay after

bwestwood 22/Jul/13 AltLd

1st and 3rd

richsmithinbristol 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and ran last pitches together.

shed_hed 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Dougie took the first two in one and I did the third and fourth in one. Started a bit too far right so climbed up to join the end of the traverse on the first pitch. Did the pendulum move free - a little tricky. Unclipped the spike on second to avoid rope faff and make it a little more interesting!

Graham Atkins 21/Jul/13 AltLd
dswansonlow 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Simon Davis 20/Jul/13 AltLd
with Tim P
Dan Mckinlay 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
AlexD 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

led pitch 2, highly enjoyable running it out on great rock.

James Oswald 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Nice route. I lead 1 and 3. We went for the tension traverse method.. The 3rd pitch is lovely exposed jug pulling

Mark Reeves 11/Jul/13 AltLd
alasdair19 ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Olli-C 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Good history and quirky pendulum/backrope option. Would feel like a better climb if it wasn't at cloggy and next to so many other amazing routes.

matt.woodfield 08/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. Fun.

cathymiller 08/Jun/13 AltLd

Lead P1 and 3, Mike on 2 and 4. Took pendulum swing on second pitch (HVS alt).

bobpilgrem 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Good lead by Jim-after much faffing I had to resort to the 'traditional'pendulum.Excellent sustained route- my first on Cloggy.

with JIm
John Nuttall 07/Jun/13 2nd
with Andy H
jcw ??/2013 -
Danjones 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches. Great route. Climbed crux traverse free seconding with back rope from in situ sling on spike. Quite thin but ok. Rest of route HVS/VS.

with Owen (London)
Owen W-G 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2 (free) and P4/5. Good route.

Stig 25/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led last three pitches, run together. Unbalanced route I thought.

with Chris
chrishedgehog 25/May/12 AltLd O/S

Took the "roundhead" option!

with James Rees
Owain Llewelyn 23/May/12 Lead O/S
with Dan and Kris
Stone Muppet 23/May/12 2nd O/S
with Owain, dan ely
dan ely 23/May/12 2nd rpt
with crispin, owian
Liam FLeming 28/Mar/12 -
Alex Winter 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

First route on Cloggy. Good. Crux traverse fine if you find the right footholds.

with Sam
sgl 28/Mar/12 AltLd
with Alex
OffshoreAndy ?/Jan/12 AltLd
OffshoreAndy ?/Jan/12 AltLd
OffshoreAndy ?/Jan/12 AltLd
OffshoreAndy ?/Jan/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
kingholmesy ??/2012 AltLd O/S

Led p2 free. Andy ran 3 & 4 together.

Dizz 30/Jul/11 AltLd

Direct start up Serf, in 2 pitches, I led from the belay after traverse in one pitch. Had a silly slip off due to trying to reverse a mossy move to check the wire I then loaded :-)

with brian
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
CRiddiford 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

me p2, john p1,3and4.

with John
five 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with AV
owain86 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Chris
chriscarroll 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Got megga confused on this one. Could see the spike and the ledge but ended building a belay on the jugs, owain effectively top roped the stiff 5c move

with Owain
Alex Mason 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

In two pitches. Went wrong way andd headed straight up to the main corner at the top.

with George Ullrich
givemetea 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

4a, 5c, 4c, 4c, 4a - led P1 + P4/5

dan gibson 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with roslyn mckendry
mynyddresident 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with gareth
tomdude 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with rob
robertmichaellovell 04/Jun/11 AltLd
with Tom
theotherpetehill 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Me P1, Glynne P2, me P3 and 4 run together

A Crook 02/May/11 AltLd O/S

Done clean without the pendulum. Stiff move on a almost blank slab. Great

frost 02/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Adam, D Garry
mux 02/May/11 AltLd O/S

Baltic - had intended to then go on to the axe but bailed as it was just too cold.

with frost, Adam
Billg 24/Apr/11 AltLd

Led in 2 long pitches

with Megan Beaumont
Tim Sparrow 22/Apr/11 AltLd

Lovely intricate climbing on main pitch

with Piers Nesbitt
dan ely 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with tim
tim newton 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with dan ely
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
adam coxsell 16/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 16/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Cowflinger 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Led 1st and 2nd pitches. 2nd free

with Pete Lewis
Somerset swede basher 25/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Using the pendulum after a very ill martin was sick all over the traverse! (sorry to the next party to follow us up)

with Martin Cleaver
Martin Cleaver 25/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Dom Selers
brian watson 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd
Marti999 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Graham C 17/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
Tomprusk 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S

with pendulum

with Nick
Nick Nitro 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
zukator ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
lazybones 14/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. Tom did really well to get the traverse clean onsight. Epic day out.

with Tom Pearson
Luke Brooks 10/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
DannyK 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Finished direct up the corner- felt like 5b/5c.

with pep
Hidden 27/Jul/08 AltLd rpt
morganator 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
barni ??/2008 AltLd
with Paul James
Ben1983 09/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/07 AltLd
rob1 05/May/07 AltLd

With Pendulum Traditional Ascent !

with Tom Martin
Hidden 01/May/07 Lead O/S
Nicos 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
shoulders 25/Jul/06 Lead
caradoc 15/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Tension traverse.

with john b
Hidden 17/Jun/06 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Si dH 03/Jun/06 AltLd dnf


with Kane Chandler
Hidden 29/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
with Al leary
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? ??/2006 -
Hidden 12/Jul/05 AltLd
sadams 22/May/04 Lead O/S
with Hugh Cottom
mike fenwick ?/May/04 AltLd

did the pendulum

John Pickles 09/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
with Jill Singleton
Mark Davies PK ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
with Fed up
Hidden 17/Jun/03 AltLd
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
csalvage ??/2002 AltLd O/S

Bry led the pitch with the swing, I led the one after and recall being very chuffed!

with Bryan
BenTiffin ?/Aug/00 AltLd
with Andy Bissell
D Tempest ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Chris, Rick
WB ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Paul
The Reaper 31/Jul/99 Lead O/S
zero six ??/1998 AltLd O/S
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Paul Boardman 12/Jun/97 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
rob.grafton ??/1997 Lead
with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, Simon Wood
Duncan I ?/Jul/96 -
with Myles Jordan
GuyM ??/1996 -
Chris Ellis 20/Jul/94 AltLd

I led pitch one and pitch three

with Dan Morgan
biggianthead 24/Jun/94 -
with HT
Hidden ?/Jan/91 AltLd
NickJH ??/1991 -
Nigel Coe ??/1991 AltLd
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jul/87 AltLd
Melok ??/1985 -
Rob Davies 15/Jul/83 Lead

The traditional way, with tension traverse. Bought myself a Sticht plate after this experience, as holding Angus on waist belay while he swung across was very uncomfortable

with Angus McLean
Nigel Bond 10/Jul/83 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
charlesmfrench 03/Jul/83 AltLd O/S

Soloed first pitch. Led second.

with DAVID SMITH, Alan Bennett
uphillnow 02/Jul/83 AltLd

Since climbed on several occasions(led all pitches)

with charlie french, Al Bennett
Hidden ??/1983 AltLd
babymoac 24/May/80 Lead
with MTW
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 -
RichardMc 25/Aug/79 Lead
with Paul Richards
Pete Nugent ?/Jul/79 AltLd

Led p2 (with lasso & pendulum as per guide, HVS, 1 pt, 1976 guide)

with Pete Harris
Brian Wilderspin 22/Sep/78 AltLd O/S

With Frank ?? Done with the lasso.

Hidden 26/May/78 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1978 Lead
with Dave Westby
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1978 Lead O/S
with Psycho Mike from the Chester club?
Dave Musgrove 15/Oct/77 AltLd
with Jim Worthington
Steve Lewis 28/May/77 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
Sean Kelly ?/Jul/76 AltLd


with Bob Millward
Hidden ?/Jun/76 AltLd
Mike Owen 24/Apr/76 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
Hidden 19/Apr/76 AltLd
petemeads ??/1976 Lead
sharpie ?/Jul/75 Lead O/S
with PL
Bolt Phobia 13/Jun/75 Lead
with Trev Steele
RichardMc 06/Jul/74 AltLd O/S
with Dave Langmead
Frank Price ??/1974 -
Steve Woollard ??/1974 Lead
with Doug Adams
Hidden ?/Aug/73 AltLd
Martin Bennett 29/May/73 -
with JD
pneame ??/1973 AltLd

But we did it with the pendulum - nowhere near 5c!

with Eric Holligan
Hidden 03/Jun/70 AltLd
mikej 02/Sep/69 AltLd

We had a good day, but a team of our climbing mates (GMW & WFH) were successful on Great Wall over to the right.

with Chris Fitzhugh
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 27
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set