66m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the older climbs up the huge curving groove on the right side of the buttress. Something of a traditional thrutch, where crimping ability is never required - wall rats will have a humbling experience. Start on the right-hand side of the pedestal.
1) 4c, 10m. Climb the huge flake to the top of the pedestal via laybacks or jamming.
2) 4c, 20m. Swing left on a jug into the corner-chimney. Thrutch up the crack with a variety of off-width techniques past a steeper more awkward section. Belay on a ledge out left as for Vember.
3) 4c, 35m. Move back into the corner and bridge wildly up, moving back into the depths to arrange protection. Follow this until the right wall starts to form a slab. Move up this before finally gaining the fantastically-exposed arete. Finish up this on good holds to a grassy ledge and belay. Scramble out to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Classic Corners, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Thrutch and Clutch, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), UK road to wide crack mastery, High Quality Adventure routes, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

George_Surf 19/Jun AltLd O/S

Pretty hard work! Heat wave walk in. p1 is ok, p2 pretty thrutchy and awkward, p3 has tricky bridging moves to start and then the top arete is easier but run out a bit.

steven_daniels99 19/Jun Lead
Mike505 26/May AltLd O/S

Eugenie lead p1 and p2 leaving p3 for me, I can't remember having to fight so hard on a VS, you can body jam and rest at any point, however progress always seem slow.

eb202 26/May AltLd O/S

I led P1 & P2, Michael led P3. A good challenge in a brilliant setting, can't wait to get back here.

with Michael
Hidden 07/May AltLd dog
MarcinK 07/May AltLd dog
Markheighton 29/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/16 AltLd
drolex 05/Jun/16 2nd

Definition of type II fun. Greasy, muddy, intolerable foot jams, midges. 10/10 would come back

with JohnW, SteveG
Hidden 05/Jun/16 -
Chubbard 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Type II fun

with Michael, C Godfrey
Em66 ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Teappleby 16/Jun/15 AltLd dnf

Bailed after the second pitch as we were not having fun damp thruching. The route turned out to be not anything like as good as the guide made it out to be. I like chimneys and cracks but even I found it very brutal, so can't imagine what Matt thought! It's a shame because it's such a cool feature but the climbing just didn't seem to quite match. Maybe it was just conditions.

Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
Pete_Frost 22/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. If you can jam, P1 is pleasant. P2 is difficult and not very pleasant. P3 is almost worth doing for the arĂȘte at the top. Top tip: bring hexes as well as medium and large cams.

with Climbing Joe from Anglesey
sgl 10/Sep/14 Lead

A classic of the genre

with will
Hidden 10/Sep/14 -
Hidden 08/Sep/14 Solo
johnkeith 08/Aug/14 AltLd

Held on to runner leading pitch 2.

with Michael Sandison
pimpy 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

led pitches 1 & 3. brutal

with Herve, Charles
cem 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led p2.

with Hervé Peter-Contesse, Will Grayson
robpartridge 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Noddy
crag_monster 24/Jul/14 AltLd
with Leo
Hidden 23/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jul/14 2nd O/S
redshapedfriday 11/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt Harris, Owen Pearce
Roget 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with robin
Robin Nichols 01/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Roger
R0bbie 23/Jun/14 AltLd
with leighn
Harri777 22/Jun/14 AltLd
with Khalid
khalidq 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Tony Ryland 21/Jun/14 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch Brute force required to thrutch up chimney using back and foot technique after airy move left from belay stance

with Steve Barby
Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd
Duncan Campbell 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led all the difficulties with the 5a direct start in a oner - very traditional climbing.

with Hazel Findlay
Andrew Lodge 21/Jun/14 AltLd

Can't say I loved the climb, it is in a great position but it all feels a bit of a grovel up a dirty crack. Much better routes on th ecrag.

with Dave
Bob ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Dave Woodcock
Sam Cooke 25/Aug/13 Lead
with Hal
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd
Tadams 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Damp, green crack made for interesting climbing - bridging, back and footing and thin face climbing were all preferable to the slimy jamming on offer.

with Hal Roberts, Sam Cooke
kelliroberts3 20/Jul/13 AltLd
with Chasqui Patter, Peter Rigby
Chazwoz 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

bad idea to take rucksacks on this climb......

joese7en 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Pete Rigby 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

with rucksacks!

dan gibson 19/Jul/13 Solo O/S
UncleMephisto 18/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Initially like being born again, but in a bad way. Once you get into thrutch mode, it's ace.

with Brian Seery
The_Boy_ODwyer 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome. Put a massive smile on my face having been a bit disappointed by Vember...

with Colin Harvey
Hidden 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Dan Mckinlay 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Helen Gibson 13/Jul/13 2nd

first two pitches then on to vember

with Ollie B
Ollie B 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Horrendous! Did P1+2, finished up the top pitch of vember.

with H.Gibson
richiebongo 10/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

2nd and 3rd pitches with Jon Dydimus.

Didymus 10/Jul/13 AltLd

First Cloggy experience. Led p1, had meltdown on p2 - coincidentally watching Calum top roping Indian Face! p3 2nd.

with Rich
James Oswald 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Really thuggy and pretty hard for VS!? Mark found the 3rd pitch up the final chimney really bold!

Mark Reeves 10/Jul/13 2nd
Mathias Willerup ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Martin Beale
Jones_88 09/Jun/13 AltLd

Your a better man than me if you can do this without swearing.

adam06 09/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd
guy757 07/Jun/13 -
duncandarnell ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Andy Chadwick ??/2013 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2013 -
rob16 ??/2013 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
alasdair19 11/Aug/12 Lead

led JAMIE up it the wriggle on P2 was hard but slightly easier than it looked. a traditional classic

djromberg 27/May/12 Lead O/S
cheeky 26/May/12 AltLd O/S
vertically_challenged 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

tough and thrutchy. wouldn't recommend as a warm up.

Dave Rumney 26/May/12 Lead

just 1st 2 pitches then did Vember as it looked more appealing.

with Tanya Milner
mark4344 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Tough for grade, as every pitch full on 4c moves. pitch 1 thuggy, pitch 2 a squirm and pitch 3 airy at top.

with Matt Payne
antonymcphillips ?/May/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/12 -
Spongeclimber ?/May/12 2nd O/S
with adi bryant, lee godson
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
davidtrelawnyross ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Katex 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Great climb, apart from the second pitch, which I led, which is a chimney horrorshow.

with Simon Edwards
adam 24 ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
al123 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

very traditional is fitting. led P2, awkrawd when your tall

with alex
Hidden 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 11/Jul/11 Solo O/S

Terrifying solo on second pitch in the awkward corner. Great 'trad' climbing.

Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3

Simon Allcock 02/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch

with Wilki
jamesh 29/Apr/11 2nd
with Jim Unwin
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
djking1983 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
JasonV 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

you gotta like them chimblies for this one. P1 very nice jamming crack.

with Phil
dan ely 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S

most of it was a damp chimley horror show but the end and start just about made up for it, anywhere else it would'nt

with jon
Pippa 05/Jun/10 AltLd
with Jon
Hidden 03/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 22/May/10 Lead dnf

Did pitch 1 and 2. Too wet and slimy

adi bryant 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Very traditional!

with Jake, Lee
Graham Westbrook ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Apr/10 AltLd
with Westy
Aaron Lines ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with sue hazel
gritrash0 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
zukator ??/2010 Lead
chrisallan 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Chris Sansum 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

My first time on Cloggy, after having it on the 'to do' list for ages! Loved it. Initial jamming crack was very greasy inside! Chris led P1 & 3, Gary P2

with Gary Lewin
theotherpetehill 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2

Bennykr 25/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Jonny
Jillybean 25/Jun/09 AltLd
with Od
Od 25/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Jill Reinsch
Hidden 01/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
CharlotteJelleyman 01/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Hilarious. Even Steve didn't climb gracefully.

with Herve Nuttall, Steve Franklin
hervenuttall ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve
Glyn Davidson 31/May/09 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches, ran the last three into 1.

lost.arrow 31/May/09 AltLd
with David Bowler
Shaw Brown 25/May/09 AltLd
with Conan
Conan 25/May/09 AltLd O/S

Fun and scary climb. Glad the route was dry. When you look around the corner after the Pedestal 1st pitch, you'll think "Oh My God"

with Shaw Brown
Hidden 11/May/09 Lead O/S
jon thompson27 ??/2009 2nd O/S
with Alex Thompson
Hidden 25/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Marcus ??/2008 -
Gman ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Strenuous first pitch

with Jonathan
five 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with TW
Hidden 01/May/07 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 29/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

led second pitch. 3 tough little pitches on the high mountain, warrant HVS as far as I'm concerned.

with Steve Grove
Mark A Humphries 17/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Jim 1st pitch, Me 2nd pitch and Jim 3rd pitch

with Jim
caradoc 16/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Very enjoyable route. One of, if not the best VS I have climbed.

with john b
ritchierich 07/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Rob Greenwood
mike lawrence? ??/2006 -
runestone 22/Jul/04 Lead
with J
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd O/S
Just Another Dave ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Laura
duncan 21/Sep/02 AltLd O/S

Inc. direct start (5a)

Hidden ??/2002 AltLd
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
Bob M ?/Jun/01 AltLd
with Jill Stevens
BenTiffin ?/Aug/00 AltLd
with Andy Bissell
John Pickles 10/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with John Short
WB ??/1998 -
alan moore ??/1998 -

Dirty, brutal, and not at all what we expected!

Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1994 -
lithos ?/May/92 Lead
Julian Wedd ??/1991 -
with A. Brierley
pingora 18/Jul/90 AltLd O/S
with Bankhead
mark-abz 13/May/90 AltLd
with Ian D
Nick Rundall ??/1990 AltLd O/S
michael burrows 25/Jul/89 AltLd O/S
with john roberts
Hidden 28/May/89 Lead
Hidden 17/May/89 Lead
Hidden 12/Jun/88 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/88 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/88 Lead
Hidden ??/1988 2nd
BigHairyIan 29/Mar/87 2nd O/S

Wasn't happy at all!

GuySummers 29/Mar/87 Lead
Melok ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1984 -
andy gittins ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden 26/May/78 AltLd
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Steve Lewis 09/Jul/77 Solo
climbing_goose ??/1976 AltLd O/S

climbed with dave naul - had to wait at the bottom of the crux pitch and while al evans and partner smoothed up and early (first?) ascent of curving arete

with dave naul
petemeads ??/1976 Lead
Bob M ?/Jun/75 -
with Graham Mayo
Hidden ??/1975 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 15/Jun/74 Lead
with Pete Dainty
sharpie ?/Jun/74 Solo
Bolt Phobia 26/May/74 AltLd
Hidden 14/Apr/74 Lead dnf
Paul Clarke ??/1974 AltLd
with FMC
Steve Woollard ??/1974 Lead
with Doug Adams
RichardMc 25/Aug/73 AltLd O/S
with Betty Seifert
Martin Bennett 16/Aug/73 -
with Sue Andrews, RA
Hidden ??/1973 AltLd
Hidden ??/1973 AltLd
rockofades ?/Sep/72 AltLd
with LB
uphillnow 17/Jul/71 AltLd

Climbed many times since

with charlie Tanner, john stanger, Dave Ellis, Al Bennett
pneame ??/1971 AltLd
mikej 17/Oct/70 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
eroica64 30/Aug/70 AltLd
with Barry Cooper, Roger Everett
Dave Musgrove 21/Jun/70 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
rogerskews ??/1970 AltLd
with Dane Atkins
Gordon Stainforth 31/Aug/69 AltLd
with John Stainforth
tapley 28/Jun/69 AltLd
ill_bill ??/1969 AltLd
Campbell42 24/Aug/68 AltLd O/S
with Kim Wainwright
Hidden 11/Jul/66 AltLd
eroica64 31/May/66 Lead
with Eric Reynolds
Seymore Butt ??/1965 -
with Nev
oldmanofmow 14/Oct/60 2nd

Pete Johnson. It rained didnt think it was a great route

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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
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Votes cast 32
High 5a
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High 4c
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High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 30
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