UKC

Rockfax Description
The best route on the right-hand side of the West Buttress tackles the clean red slab. Start by scrambling high up the Western Terrace to a point below the right edge of the slab, just before a large boulder.
1) 5b, 30m. Pull up, then traverse up leftwards to a flake at 15m. Move up over a bulge, then continue up leftwards along a flake to a small overhang. Pull round this on the left and belay in a shallow corner (peg).
2) 5b, 25m. Traverse left and head up to a tiny ledge, then move down and left to reach a grassy gully. Follow this to a stance.
3) 35m. The rib above leads to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, North Wales E3's, UK Lonely Leads, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, CUMC First Ascents.


ClimberDateStyle
breed 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st! I Hope

with Brad
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Bob ??/2014 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Owain Llewelyn 14/Jul/11 Lead
with Dad
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Neil McA 23/May/10 AltLd O/S

Both pitches get 5b but the first is serious E3 and 2nd pitch is easy. Stan led the first!

with Stan
The old James turnbull ?/Jun/08 Lead
pauldrew 26/Jun/05 AltLd
pete johnson 26/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
D Tempest ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Chris, Rick
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/91 Lead O/S

Quote from Nick, 'Where are the bloody holds!'

with Sarah Keekus, Nick Keekus
Billg ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton, Dave Gregory
Hidden 27/May/89 AltLd
Will Webb ?/May/89 AltLd
with Mark Cole
wynaptomos ?/May/89 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??/1989 Lead O/S
Melok ??/1985 -
charlesmfrench 13/Aug/83 AltLd O/S

L,2,L.

with Nick
Nigel Bond 10/Jul/83 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Leverton
Mark Kemball 06/Jul/83 AltLd
with Dave Abbey
Hidden 24/May/80 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden 15/Jul/79 Lead
Hidden 15/Jul/79 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1979 Lead O/S

Good feeling treading in Whillan's footsteps. Mild E2 at the time....

with Billy Jones
Steve Lewis 03/Jun/78 Lead O/S
with John Harwood
Mike Owen 14/Jul/77 2nd β
with Colin Rowe, Chester Dent
GeoffG 09/Jul/77 Lead
with tony bowker
Martin Bennett 06/Jul/77 -
with JD
mike lawrence? ??/1977 Lead

In those days done with a tension traverse

RichardMc 28/Aug/76 2nd O/S
with Dave Langmead
mikej 12/Aug/76 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Falko 07/Jun/75 Lead O/S
with Alan Taylor
granitbahn ??/1971 AltLd
Seymore Butt ??/1970 2nd
with Keith Roberts
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 4
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set