Rockfax Description
Another unique route that begins and ends on the ground below the crag. It follows a line of weakness below an arching roof line. Start by scrambling up to a grassy ledge level with, and left of, the start of the route and traverse across to belay at the start of the break-line.
1) 5a, 22m. Move up and right to gain the break-line below the roof and traverse rightwards along this on good holds to the arete. Arrange good gear here and make the crux pull round the arete and across the short steep wall to belay in the corner.
2) 4c, 32m. Follow the break-line right across the wall, heading slightly up, before making the long descent to the far end of the crag. Care is needed with some rock and remember to protect the second who will feel like they are leading this pitch. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A traversing journey that starts and finishes on the ground.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, The V.S.+ Ticklist, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Ewan Russell 12/Sep Lead O/S
with aaron evans
dkd 14/Aug AltLd

Wet day. Good route but wet bracken approach.

with Mike Tutt
George_Surf 09/Aug Lead O/S

Great route, walked in from cwm dyli power station, a bit boggy but ok. pitch 1 is brilliant and generally easy, felt 4c max, safe and the holds are massive. p2 felt harder because its more friable, a bit wetter/greener and its a bit longer than p1. overall good fun and an unusual line

rachelpearce01 09/Aug 2nd O/S
Cheese Monkey 30/Jul AltLd O/S

Starting and finishing on the ground was unique. Perfect rainy day route

with Colin
Hidden 16/Jun AltLd O/S
Sarah Roscoe 29/May AltLd

seconded Matt on P1. Attempted to lead P2 but had to be lowered down when reached a damp patch

Matt Harmon 29/May Lead O/S

led p1 and led p2 in both directions

guy757 02/May -
Hidden 30/Apr 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr AltLd
Rory Shaw 22/Apr -
SJPowderham1 03/Jan AltLd

Lead P2, the very ugly sister next to the pleasant first pitch.

davidibex 03/Jan AltLd
swmackey 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Col Kingshott 09/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Little Amy 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Abi Chard 29/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd
robpartridge 09/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Helen
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
maty500 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches the first being the best by far. Second pitch had a nasty torn bush and quite a loose large block, but it was worth it for the first pitch.

James Oakes 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Fragmod 27/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 31/May/15 AltLd O/S
ianstevens 31/May/15 AltLd O/S

Cool, quirky route. Could do with a bit more traffic to remove the occasional plant or two. Lead P1, "Seconded" P2 (mostly sideways and down, so not far from leading anyway...)

james.slater 24/May/15 AltLd O/S

Weird and awesome

Hidden ??/2015 -
mrginna 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Led both pitches

with Tim
Tim Francis 18/Oct/14 AltLd
with ian
Qureshi 22/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
adamre12 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Dan Led P1, i did P2. Found P2 slightly harder than P1 which was easy. Nice route well worth doing.

jmills94 ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

great route for when its been rainy (or any time!) pitch 1 is the harder and pumpier pitch despite being shorter but your on great holds and its fine if you bridge. pitch 2 is just superb traversing using a juggey hand rail and plenty of footholds to get the weight off your arms. didnt notice any 4c move on this pitch and it was not pumpy as there was so much for your feet. a great route only slightly let down because of the 'samey' feel. ade p1 me p2

with ade
wi11 02/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Felt soft. Good fun though

with Henry F
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
justin burgoyne 22/May/14 AltLd O/S

dDry weather. Some wet areas on route and a fair bit of vegetation to climb past on both pitches. a Great pumpy route though

fizzychewitt 10/May/14 AltLd
with Alun, Jayne
Hidden 10/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/May/14 2nd O/S
rbharries 09/May/14 AltLd O/S
with neils EW, josie McG
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead
Si ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Simon Leigh Smith
Anthony Dixon 23/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/13 2nd O/S
Tarquin 23/May/13 Lead
Hidden 22/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/12 Lead O/S
moelfras 13/May/12 2nd
Gareth Bowen 14/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led p2.

with Dave Whitely
moelfras ??/2012 2nd
tedburt 02/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Aaron Burdett
spacey 23/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

seeping dampness and vegetation added to the interest, good route

Paul Evans 23/Sep/11 AltLd
with spacey
Noodles 22/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1, great hand holds, airy move around the arĂȘte, a cool little route where plenty of cams will be helpful.

with Andy Mcque
Hidden 30/Jul/11 2nd
Zoomer 30/Jul/11 Lead dog

Excellent route, great holds throughout but got pumped on the crux trying to arrange bomber gear for my second (had a wee rest!). Doesn't look like it gets much traffic which is a shame because its mega!

owain86 23/Jul/11 Solo O/S
with Max
Bill Lawrence 23/Jul/11 Solo O/S

really enjoyable traverse, big jugs!

with alex mason
Alex Mason 06/Mar/11 Solo O/S

The perfect solo. I dont think any handhold is not an incut jug. Great fun.

with Laura Perry
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Mark Kemball 23/Oct/10 AltLd

A good route - reasonably dry, not much seepage.

with Nye Kemball, Nic Dill
jayrenegade 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Very good, perfect for a rainy day at the hotel.

with Prav
caradoc 16/Aug/10 Lead
with nick yapp
mikelaing ?/May/10 AltLd
with Ian Whitehead
Calder 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Rich
RCrockford 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Graham
Ows ?/Mar/10 AltLd
Carly 23/Sep/09 AltLd
with Richard
prwalker 11/Sep/09 AltLd

Led pitch 2. Interesting, different climb. Good handhold all along the route, delicate feet needed. Hanging belay at stance, watch out for brambles!

with Helena Robinson
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden 08/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
dan_o_b ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/07 AltLd
A Crook 06/May/07 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 06/May/07 AltLd
with A Crook
tumbling wizard ?/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead
samwelli 05/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
with Steve Hobbs
Chris Ellis 12/May/02 AltLd
with Paul Evans
Hidden 08/Apr/98 AltLd
dionhughes ??/1998 2nd dog
with Bob Bertalot
Hidden 04/Aug/97 AltLd
Rob Davies ??/1995 AltLd

Date?

with Angus McLean
Hidden 01/Jun/94 AltLd
Ched ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 26/Jul/92 AltLd
babymoac 30/Jul/89 -
with Rob A
nigehughes ?/May/88 AltLd
with Graham Stamp
Hidden 19/Apr/87 AltLd
RichardMc 05/Oct/75 Lead O/S
with Betty Seifert
jcw 04/Jun/73 -
with Martin Harris
jon 09/Apr/72 2nd
with phil r
greenbuoy 12/Aug/70 AltLd
with Ken Toms
mikej 17/May/69 AltLd
with Wil Hurford
uphillnow ??/1968 Lead
with Pete Clayton
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 19
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set