245m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
VS. This famous route is too unbalanced and scrappy to be a real classic, but it is popular and takes an easy line up this magnificent big face. Although it is quite an expedition, retreat by abseil is fairly easy. There is a fair amount of fixed gear, but carry a light rack. The short crux pitch has become desperately polished - many use a bit of aid here.
1) 3, 35m. Climb first right, then back left and onto the base of the big white slab - loose. Belay bolts on the left or right.
2) 3, 45m. Walk left past bushes to gain a ledge running back right above the slab and belay directly above your second.
3) 5+, 35m. Climb the corner at the right-hand end of the ledge, then the tough slippery right-slanting crack (the crux, and very polished). The direct version straight up the corner is rumoured to be easier. Move left to belay below the upper slab.
4) 4, 20m. Climb left onto the slab to a bush belay.
5) 4, 30m. One pitch leads to a superb belay on the ridge.
6) 4+, 30m. Walk along the ridge then traverse to the left and climb a flake/crack to a bulge. Belay on bolts a little higher.
7) 20m. Climb rightwards by the easiest line. Belay in a notch.
8) 30m. Easy climbing leads to the summit. © Rockfax

FA. A.Martí, M.Gómez, A.Botella, A.Tebar 1958

Ticklists: Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes.

Jakcam 18/Jan 2nd O/S
jcoup 12/Jan Lead

Lead every pitch. Plenty of loose rock on the first few pitches. Used aid on the crux which is ridiculously polished. Upper slabs made up for it though! Amazing climbing and loads of exposure.

Smithy90 21/Dec/18 Lead
lithos 17/Dec/18 AltLd
Jonny Harrison 29/Nov/18 AltLd rpt
with Bob Alexander , Daz Williams
Jamiemcgrory 29/Nov/18 AltLd
Andrew Knight 29/Nov/18 AltLd O/S
Bob Alexander 29/Nov/18 AltLd
with Jon Harrison
robblowen 26/Nov/18 AltLd O/S

Pitches 3 - 8, planned on doing the slab pitches after doing the lower pitches of polvos magicos but bailed onto this earlier to avoid some serious rockfall!

ashtond6 26/Nov/18 Lead
Hidden 21/Nov/18 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Nov/18 2nd
mikestr555 16/Oct/18 -
Amy Kilpin 15/Oct/18 2nd
Jonny Crean 24/May/18 AltLd
humptydumpty 28/Apr/18 Lead O/S

Saw a snake at the top of P5. Freed the chimney - it's not bad if you like that kind of thing. Got attached by seagulls. Fantastic. As for gear, I remember placing a couple of slings and two nuts - sling on P1 to direct the rope around a corner, first nut on the traverse on P2 to protect my second, and the other next to a bolt before the chimney, because I was scared the bolt might come unclipped(??!) Also a thread on P6.

Hidden 20/Apr/18 AltLd RP
PanzerHanzler 19/Apr/18 AltLd O/S

Led p1 p3 p5 & 6. Pitch 3 clean lead no pulling on gear required at this grade.

99bolivar 09/Apr/18 2nd O/S
with Richard Smith, Aaron Campion, Ged Campion, Tim Josephy
mkbk93 ?/Apr/18 AltLd dnf
with Dan Webster
JMM 14/Mar/18 Lead

A star for situation etc. The climbing must once have been good but now the polish detracts from the whole route, making it feel poky rather than straightforward. The first two pitches are poor, the third is super slippy but sort of fun(!). Pitch 4 and 5 up the slabs would be excellent but impossible to trust your feet and thus enjoy. Glad to have done it but won't rush back.

5eamuz 17/Feb/18 AltLd
with Michal Samsel, HP9
HP9 17/Feb/18 AltLd
with 5eamuz
pftom 01/Jan/18 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3,5 &6

with Barry Whale
Hidden 01/Jan/18 AltLd
Naomi Havercroft 15/Dec/17 AltLd
tmawer 05/Dec/17 Lead rpt

After failing to find the belay on Paratas!

with Maz
MazElden 05/Dec/17 AltLd

Only did one pitch of this due to problem finding 3rd pitch of another climb. Tony finished it off

with tmawer
MichelleGreensted 30/Nov/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Nov/17 AltLd
Becky 20/Oct/17 AltLd RP
with Dom
Dominicgriff 20/Oct/17 AltLd RP

Second pitch we took the 6a direct line up the slab from UBSA

Chownsy 03/Apr/17 AltLd dog

Pitch 3 is ridiculously slippy, smooth, polished rock that felt like a 6b in my eyes and that was on a second,fair play to my partner who lead that pitch.

Paul16 03/Apr/17 Lead dnf

We gave up in disgust - if polished limestone is your thing then go for it, but not one we enjoyed so we abbed off from the third pitch and went for beers. Third pitch is 6a+/6b with the polish (by the direct route).

with Ian
GStone 19/Mar/17 AltLd
with Dan3266
Dan3266 19/Mar/17 AltLd
with GStone
teamvix 18/Mar/17 2nd

Cris led; I seconded. Our first multipitch.

with Cristiano
Mick r 02/Mar/17 Lead rpt

Went for the direct second pitch up the slab, rather than the corner. Foot slipped on the crux move, otherwise, great climb up the slabs above

with Chris Gooder
Hidden 26/Feb/17 -
Mark Eddy 26/Feb/17 Lead

Even more polished than I remembered it being! Still a worthwhile route.

with Ann Leese, KateA
Becky 21/Feb/17 Lead dnf
with Olly Ray
OliverR17 21/Feb/17 2nd dnf

Abbed off - 3rd pitch was very highly polished

pdamann 17/Feb/17 AltLd

Led P2,4,6,8, taking the variation up the corner. I confess to aiding the slippery rock on second with the pack on.

Hidden 17/Feb/17 AltLd
HumphreyJ20 11/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Valentino 11/Feb/17 AltLd rpt
craig naylor 07/Feb/17 AltLd
with kris
kellyb (velvet.mustard) 03/Jan/17 2nd

Slab variation for pitch two, lovely day. Busy penon!!

Shaw Brown 03/Jan/17 Lead

Did the slab variation on pitch 2, quite tricky to do clean with a heavyish rucksack. Did the whole route with just quickdraws but you have to happy with 30ft runouts.

judith neaves 03/Jan/17 2nd
rachelpearce01 25/Dec/16 AltLd

Christmas Day 2016! A great end to 2 months in Costa blanca, despite injuries and stolen gear. Despite the climb being very polished, especially in trainers it was still good for the setting. Blue seas and sky and finished with an ice cream in the harbour. Horrid slimy walk off though.

with George Sanderson
George_Surf 25/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Christmas climb! 5hrs (2hrs approach/descent) car to car; started about 12pm. First two pitches are scrappy followed by the glassy corner. Gets a bit nicer after that, pitch 5 was enjoyable (and 6). Really nice above the sea, no wind and hot. The walk down was much worse than I remember. Skating around on muddy polish...

Scottysparks 24/Nov/16 2nd O/S

Completed on last day of Ex SPANROCK

with Grace Stelfox
Hidden 19/Nov/16 AltLd
Higher Primate 19/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1, 2, 7 and 8. Lots of polish on pitches 1-4.

with Rob Harden, Ryder
tiga271 06/Nov/16 AltLd
with Dave
gaz3212 01/Nov/16 AltLd
my 27/Oct/16 -

Led all 8 pitches, 3.5 hr total

Jack Manfredi 01/Jun/16 AltLd
with Dad
j_hiscox 27/Apr/16 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Dec/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Dec/15 Lead O/S
DavidR 30/Dec/15 AltLd rpt

2 hours 40 minutes. Straight after doing Costa Blanca in the morning. Pitch 1 - Dave; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Dave; Pitch 8 - Dave.

Mark Eddy 14/Dec/15 Lead

Even slipper than I remember! Good climb though, especially on the upper slab

with KateA
Hidden 14/Dec/15 2nd
Martin Bennett 12/Dec/15 -

Alan's last climb? He says at the moment. For a change did the original finish round to the left. A bit veg but OK.

with AlanB
Hidden 09/Dec/15 Lead dnf
pauldrew 07/Dec/15 AltLd
with Kevin Sales
swmackey 26/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
Zoomer 26/Nov/15 AltLd rpt

Another lap of the old classic with a Spanrock student.

with A Student
Cerris90 25/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
with Kenty
louisnewman 25/Nov/15 AltLd
Kenty 25/Nov/15 AltLd
GStone 24/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
with Jamie Ward
jamie ward 24/Nov/15 AltLd
with Simon Gladstone
payney1973 24/Nov/15 Lead

Lead all but pitch 4

Hidden ?/Nov/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Nov/15 AltLd G/U
Gibbs3799 ?/Nov/15 AltLd
dmorgan27 09/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 is rather scruffy, pitch 3 is very polished and hard but pitches 4, 5 and 6 make up for it. Fabulous positions and exposure. Plus make sure you take some food for the cats living on the top.

with Terryl
Jonno30 18/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Amazing climb, the 5+ was insanely smooth but the next three pitches were amazing.

sibluer ?/Jul/15 AltLd
jon59 03/Apr/15 Lead
Sam2257 01/Apr/15 Lead O/S

route is ruined by the utterly awful 3rd pitch, 1st two are a little poor as well, but marginally made up for by the excellent slabs of p 4 & 5. lead p 1, 3, 5 & 8

Puckle 20/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Took the direct line up the 6a UBSA for the second pitch, tough but fun!

darrenpp ?/Mar/15 AltLd
jamie ward 05/Feb/15 Lead O/S


with Ellis Blower
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
dsears ??/2015 -
bob johnson 31/Dec/14 AltLd
with Bram
Hidden 31/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Dec/14 AltLd
alpinismo.uk 24/Dec/14 Lead O/S
olekemi 22/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

As others have said, the crux us polished, but still well climbable clean. A very nice climb.

with Heike P
Hidden 27/Nov/14 AltLd
Hidden 27/Nov/14 AltLd
SteChappie 25/Nov/14 2nd

Led last pitch

Hotcake ?/Nov/14 AltLd

MP. Mainly trad (very spaced bolts). Really good climbing especially P4-6. Hard crux at polished crack but well protected by a bolt so no real danger as you squirm up! - needed the tat!

Alex 74 21/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Hannah
Hidden 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S
NatCheeseman ?/Sep/14 -
with tobra
Hidden 25/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden 24/Apr/14 Lead
hayden cook 23/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/14 2nd O/S
daveclarke5 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Stephen
Hidden 02/Apr/14 Lead
jon59 25/Mar/14 Lead

Ive lead this a few times now over the years with different people, the 5+ pitch is ridiculously polished far more than i remember. The polish spoils the route to the point of un-climbability, i won't be doing this route again theres far better about with far less polish.

Hidden 18/Mar/14 2nd
leemagowan 03/Mar/14 Lead O/S


Rich ??/2014 -
Jonny Harrison ??/2014 -
Hidden 31/Dec/13 2nd
scott mayled 15/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Great climb with exposed positions, the 5+ section is like climbing glass. There is literally no way, to climb this section with finesse. Salmon out of water techniques needed!

with A student
JonesJ 12/Nov/13 AltLd
Hidden 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
SHONAJONES 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Zaheer
Andrew Lester 07/Nov/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Zoomer 01/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Teaching Gary for his RCI, under 3 hours bottom to top!

Hidden 01/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
ashsleight 01/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Led 1st, crux and 4+ pitch. Climbed as a three. Great belay on the ridge.

with tdoyle, Student
tdoyle 01/Nov/13 Lead
Hidden 22/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Christian_S85 10/May/13 2nd rpt

Climbed with Mick Barraclough, Ray Peace, Chris Hambly

Hidden ?/Apr/13 -
JohnMetcalfe 28/Mar/13 2nd
with Jose Garcia, Alex Metcalfe
crampy11 27/Mar/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
carlh 20/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Bit windy, bit loose and a bit polished, but great positions and two or three good pitches towards the top. The two pitches leading up to ridge are nice (especially the long pitch) and the steep flake crack (final technical pitch) was great. The polished chimney pitch is exactly what it says on the tin! No tat/fixed gear, as mentoned in guide, but shouldn't be needed. It's tricky, but well protected. We climbed as a 3, with John Makin & me alternating pitches (and with Tony Myers in the middle). We had the route to ourselves, which was fantastic. A good first route for 2013! Make sure you stop for a beer and sign the logbook at the Dracular cafe afterwards! :)

Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 -
ashtond6 24/Dec/12 Lead
Hidden 10/Dec/12 Lead dog
Duncan Hardy 05/Dec/12 AltLd
with Si Burrows
Hidden 04/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Sam_Marsland ?/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hills
Hidden ?/Dec/12 AltLd
Hidden 30/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Nov/12 AltLd
akhutton88 28/Nov/12 2nd

Polished Chimney(!!!!) Went up HVS pitch straight up slab to chimney rather than the VS pitch by the bushes! Awesome.

simon mitchie 21/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,3,5,7. Pitch 3 very polished, used chockstones in crack. Pitch 5 awesome peering over the ridge is amazing.

charlesmfrench 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Moved together on first 2 pitches.

with Alex
adamsandy1 14/Nov/12 2nd O/S

Multi Pitch

k2blow 02/Nov/12 AltLd

aproach upto start and once there at 12ish was busy, (need early start to avoid traffic) turned out after 3rd pitch we were on us own, this route is a corker, one hard polished pitch 3rd, every other was fine, plenty of gear placements, and odd bolt and bits of tat, last two pitches linked up with 60m run out of rope to top, top day to top off a great week, thanks to master howes! take plenty of water! and descent footwear for walk down other side,

with john howes
The Bad Cough 12/Oct/12 AltLd rpt
with rab
Hidden 27/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
rovers777 25/May/12 2nd O/S
Zoomer 25/May/12 Lead

Teaching 1 student. Tried the direct but realised it was a no go with a novice. Loads of seagulls/nests/chicks. Avoided being pecked all the way up, got to the top, took my helmet off and promptly got shat on!

with A Student
gingergeorge 25/May/12 Lead
Hidden 04/May/12 Lead O/S
mdg skidmore 29/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with joe penfold, clive dean
Hidden 23/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
mike_hough_uk 12/Apr/12 AltLd

Alt leads

chri55ie 12/Apr/12 AltLd

Lead Pitches 1, 3 and 6

Hidden 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Lev 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with ramblecote, Adrian Ross, Emma
Westcorkman 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Bob Dawson
richyg 03/Apr/12 -
Hidden 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
simonwaters5 ?/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

A longish day carting a pack up this climb past a number of angry gulls. Some great positions and great climbing, and a very satisfying "big" climb to round off the trip. I led the odd pitches

with Gavin Edwards
judith neaves 19/Mar/12 2nd

polvos magicos second pitch, 6a+ laternataive done

Shaw Brown 19/Mar/12 Lead

Climbed the 6a+ pitch of Polvos Magicos as a variation, had to resort to a rest on a bolt :-( good slippery fun.

jev ?/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Sian, Flo
HodgePL ?/Mar/12 AltLd
Valentino 27/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed pitch 2 of direct UBSA 6a

chriisu 18/Feb/12 Lead O/S

My first "serious" multi-pitch climb! Awesome views on a sunny day and good climbing. We did the 2nd pitch as the 6a+ direct corner pitch variation (and one fall on this pitch).

valentinesbabe 17/Feb/12 AltLd

I led P1 p3 and p5...had to have quite a few attempts at p3 though, downclimbed all bar one. Climbed last 3 pitches in the dark, 7 & 8 on toprope provided by Charley and Kev. Amazing how much you can see without a head torch. On the descent path we were met by a "sky-runner" policeman who had been sent to investigate as our headtorches had been spied from the town!!! :D Epic!!

chumleywarner 17/Feb/12 AltLd
Tithe Technique 17/Feb/12 AltLd dog

Lead 2 and 7 clean, 5 dogged, rest clean with charley leading.

with charley
charley 17/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Led every pitch apart from pitch 2 and 7. Definitely more trad then sport. First 3 pitches were quite poor (first two were rubbish), the crack on the crux pitch is let down by the amount of polish but the next 3 pitches were good fun, especially climbing up to the ridge. Not sure I did the correct climb on pitch 6, didn't see the flake, went up a slab instead but did go over a small roof/bulge. Felt hard and bit scary but that was probably due to the monster rope drag I had going on then the actual climbing. Did the final scramble pitch in the dark.

Hidden 12/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Jonny M 12/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with The Pix
khumbu-Kid ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Valentino
Mark Eddy 05/Jan/12 AltLd
Sam_Marsland 05/Jan/12 Lead O/S
FrancescaFord 02/Jan/12 AltLd

Led evens. Pitch 3...polished is not the word...

with MN
Mark Eddy ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Richard P Coates 19/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
with Brad
Steve13 06/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
with Aurelia, clukins
Hidden ?/Dec/11 AltLd
clukins ?/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with Steve13
ST3V10 ?/Dec/11 AltLd

Apart from the slab going to the ridge belay this is shit do your self a favour climb something a little harder and enjoy yourself.

stevens744 16/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Awsome Climb very nice day done in 3 hours with 2 other partners

with Andy Span rock
Hidden 15/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
Will Gordon 11/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with Novice
1918hasti 11/Nov/11 AltLd
antonymcphillips ?/Nov/11 AltLd
SamStokes 28/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with emilyj
Liz Wakelin 26/Oct/11 AltLd
with Rich Mayfield
scoth 23/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Crux felt more like a 6a especially as it was damp

Pete_Hamlin 17/Oct/11 2nd β
AmandaJG 17/Oct/11 2nd

6 pitches - climbed with Jon

skiswan 17/Oct/11 2nd
katherinesydney 12/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

3 pitches of rock-avalanching, ant-infested, polished choss followed by 4 really good pitches. andrew got the luxury of the ridge belay to make up for having to lead the polished chimney (really the only bit deserving of F5+; the rest is about F4+). the descent takes ages along the highly polished uneven rock slide of a tourist route; beach and ice cream at the bottom though. Climbed with Mark & Anna on the other rope.

AndyFunnell 12/Oct/11 AltLd
Marq 12/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Tried Piratas but backed off 4th pitch as nasty and continued up VV

with Anna N
LukeyG ?/Oct/11 AltLd
Rowan Mitchell 27/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

P1 Alan, P2 Me etc... P7 & P8 Alan

with Alan100
Hidden 18/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
JohnBear 07/Sep/11 AltLd
with Steve, Pete
Hidden 05/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 11/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
hellboundblr 11/Apr/11 AltLd

First climb with Ian. John & Sheldon went first. Me P1, P3, P5 & P7. Ian P2(of Direct de UBSA - due to nesting bird) P4, P6 & P8. Shit on three times by birds. Very slow, 8 hours car to car.

with Ian Wilkinson
john_ni 11/Apr/11 AltLd

Substituted the second pitch of Direct de USBA [5] and pitches 4 [f4] and 5 [f5] of Polvos Magicos. 2nd climbed with sac but hauled it on the slippery crux pitch3 and on pitch5. Bryan & Ian W climbed behind. Led pitch1 but mistakengly belayed at left belay intended for Direct de UBSA. Sheldon led P2 up slab of Direct de UBSA to avoid nests on Via path, slab was very thin leading/seconding [cheated & stood on peg/bolt]. Threw in an extra half pitch then to traverse/walk across & belay immediately below Via chimney, inserting gear to protect 2nds. Lots of loose stones there, glad we were only 4 on route. P3 crux was polished as stated by many & with no grip on slab have to haul up on the jammed chockstones. Sheldon led pitch4 of Polvos, loose in places then I led pitch 5 up the corner which has more jugs above than you'd suspect. Belayed 10m below ridge so could haul up sac after Sheldon. Sheldon led to ridge then I led the nice pitch up to belay bolts. Final 2 pitches are a scramble.

with chip
Mick Riley 28/Mar/11 -
Hidden 23/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
beckybray1 16/Mar/11 2nd
rgd1977 16/Mar/11 Lead

Did pitch two of Polvos magicos(6a+) by accident oops, it was a good pitch but I was a bit out of my depth with a rucksack on! I know everyone mentions the polished crack on pitch 3 but it really is bad, slipperiest thing I've ever climbed, I'm sure it was easier and more fun years ago but spoils the route a bit now really. Many thanks go out to a German couple we met who give me a drink of beer as I topped out, tasted fantastic and just what I needed!

jas128 23/Feb/11 2nd β

did pitch 2 of Polvos mágicos which made things more "interesting". pitch 3 very polished. rest was lovely. really good day.

Hidden 23/Feb/11 2nd β
tmawer 13/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with John
Hidden 02/Feb/11 AltLd
twm 14/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with George
rw7399 02/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with btc
btc 02/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Bob Workman
Hidden ?/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
drew8connelly ??/2011 -
RossT ??/2011 AltLd
with Guy R
Jules 210681 25/Dec/10 2nd
with Zoomer
Zoomer 25/Dec/10 Lead

Xmas Day route, blazing sunshine. Bit of polish about (the crux, ha ha) but also enjoy the exposed move up on the 6th(?) pitch before the scrambling starts. Best Xmas ever!

jw231 15/Dec/10 2nd O/S
Martin Bennett 11/Dec/10 -
with Ali
timcedwards 18/Nov/10 2nd

Bottom 2 pitches poor. Pitch 3 VERY polished. Pitches 4 & 5 excellent.

with Andrew Edwards
bigdan050 12/Nov/10 AltLd

trad leads 2/4/6

with steve H, steve R
stvredmond 11/Nov/10 AltLd
with Dan
Mike-W-99 08/Nov/10 AltLd

Could have done without the polished section! Partially bolted but a few wires & cams still useful.

Fiona Reid 08/Nov/10 AltLd

Led the odd pitches. Pitch 3 is a polished horror. No idea how I got up this but I never wish to encounter rock like that again. The rest of the climb is lovely and you end up in a stunning position on the ridge.

JimBee ?/Nov/10 AltLd dog

P1 J. (Did P2 of Direct de UBSA - mistake! very hard and polished) P3 J. P4 M, P5 J (dog). P6 M. P7,8 J simul climbing. Lots of fixed gear take a very light rack only. Extremely tired after taking too much gear and starting around 1pm in winter sun. Steep climb up rubbishy ground got us off to a bad start, still have fun and made the top (and pub) before sunset.

with Matt Ellis
pamvdb17 21/Oct/10 -
Graham Pearson 21/Oct/10 2nd dog
with Pam van de Brug
melville18 22/Sep/10 AltLd rpt

thankfully someone was kind enough to place a bolt as a foothold on the slippery chimney of death (would have been rude not to use it)

with claire melville
jacobfinn 22/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1, 3 (slippery chimney of death, 5, 6 (sting in the tail) and 8

with jjax
jjax 22/Sep/10 Lead

led pitches 2, 4 and 7. got horrendously stuck at she slippery chimney on pitch 3 as no chalk on a swelteringly hot day. sweaty palms and polished limestone dont mix. Got sunburned as took us a lot longer than we accounted for.

gpcomps 09/Sep/10 Lead dnf

First three pitches climbed successfully. Went off route on the fourth pitch and had to retreat

Hidden 28/May/10 2nd
31770 28/May/10 Lead O/S
with Sam Crookshank, Fiona Bangs
Shaw Brown 15/Apr/10 Lead

Epic enchainment with a route on Toix using public transport and shank's pony.

with Earl Gray Larty
chri55ie 12/Apr/10 AltLd

Lead pitches 1, 3, 5, 6 and 8

with Niel Stevens
Nigel Bond 12/Apr/10 AltLd
with Martin Coward, rogerskews
rogerskews 12/Apr/10 AltLd

Crux very polished and no "tat" in situ. Becoming a polished horror!

with Martin Coward, Nigel Bond
Hidden 12/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
lrandall 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. One very short section of 5/5+ climbing, otherwise very easy going. Bolts are pretty spaced, but not really comparable to VS climbing in my opinion. Nice, relaxing climb, with some nice climbing in pleasent positions.

with Flo
Hidden 30/Mar/10 AltLd
Hidden 26/Mar/10 Lead O/S
WRMusall 17/Mar/10 AltLd dnf

Had to be recued from the ledge below the 6th pitch.

with Stephenie, Derick
Will Gordon ?/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with John Abbot
Will Gordon ?/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Jose
toby2000 ?/Mar/10 -
Hidden ?/Mar/10 2nd
steve2006 01/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

beautifull sunny day in shorts and teashirt great start to year.

with Ann Blandford
Elsier 01/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Lead all except crux pitch, which was very polished. The route was quite vegitated and loose in places, but overall a great day out.

with Mary, Stuart
John Roe 14/Nov/09 AltLd

Justin led pitch 1 & 4, Chips led 5 and I led pitch 2 of "Direct de UBSA" and pitches 3 & 5 of Valencianos

with Justin (Ratty) Burgoyne, Paul (Chips) Rafferty
dani.harris 11/Nov/09 2nd
whiting.jp 05/Nov/09 AltLd
with jamesca
Hidden 05/Nov/09 AltLd
GScot38 ?/Nov/09 Lead

2 seconds.

Malpractise ?/Nov/09 -
richardhopton 21/Oct/09 AltLd

Obviously a great route but could it not take a varient on the crux to avoid the polish and go up the left crack instead of the right?

steveadkinson 08/May/09 AltLd O/S

Alt leads with Si, I led even pitches. Top of pitch 5 over the ridge to Calpe the most memorable climd so far! The walk along the ridge to start pitch 6 almost as memorable.

with Si & Simmo
Mark Fairhurst 02/May/09 AltLd O/S
jacoob81 ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
matty123 09/Apr/09 AltLd rpt
with Tom Breakell
craig h 09/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Not the classic route I was expecting, the first 3 pitches are very exposed to any rockfall from seagulls or anyone above you, lots of rocks/stones on all the ledges for a rope to dislodge. Added a short pitch - wander between pitch 2&3 as the slope was full of rocks and had climbers below. Pitch 3 was very much out of place, bit of a polished grunt (my holiday bug did kick in on this pitch though). We finished up Polvos Mágicos after this, and the following 2 pitches are fantastic, and my wife prefered them to following Vía Valencianos (she's done it before). For me they were some of the best multi-pitches I've done in the Costa Blanca, and would balance the 3rd pitch out to give a good VS.

with Janet Hannah
RobSteere ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Jason
tompercy ?/Apr/09 Lead
with Kat Pratschke
Bob M 03/Feb/09 AltLd
with riggy
barrington1978 ?/Feb/09 -
ldadams ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Tor Pitts
GaryK 03/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Horribly polished crux.

DavidR 02/Jan/09 AltLd O/S

2 hours 33 minutes. Straight after doing Diedro UBSA in the morning. Pitch 1 - Dave; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Dave; Pitch 8 - Dave.

Hidden 02/Jan/09 AltLd rpt
sdht ??/2009 -
chris.mac ??/2009 -
with gordon
Si ??/2009 AltLd
with Sal O
eldre070 25/Nov/08 Lead dnf

Abbed off after crux pitch as one of the students was struggling, alot!

with 2 students
Tenko 24/Nov/08 AltLd
Tenko 24/Nov/08 AltLd

The classic of the crag, mega 45m slab pitch. Crux is real pollished at 5+, rest of climb pure luxury.

with Wayne Elliott
climbingxcat ?/Nov/08 AltLd
with Brian
tomcoomber 13/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Dan Swift
mr.alex ?/Oct/08 2nd


melville18 ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with claire melville
Ken Taylor 26/Apr/08 AltLd
with Andy Chadwick
Conan 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Start was pants. Slab was great despite being dive bombed by the locals!

with Lindsay
Rob Hirst 05/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
with Mark Ross
RichardMc 30/Mar/08 AltLd
Hidden 22/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Will Gordon ?/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve Baker
Will Gordon ?/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve Baker, Novice
Johnny B Diggerman 08/Feb/08 2nd O/S

8 pitch climb 35m, 36m, 30m, 20m, 44m, 30m, 20m 30m. Start is a bit of an overgrown scramble. Mid section has a difficult crux followed by impressive slabs. Great climb and a great day out. Easy walk off. A 'must do' climb.

with Paul G
Hidden 29/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Peter Metcalfe 28/Jan/08 AltLd

A lovely day out. We did the direct variation up the thin but well-protected slab above P1 which involved some falling off and swearing, not necessarily in that order. 5+? 6a+ more like. Got off the Hill in time for beers at the Spanish / Brit bar by the marina. Here tapas = Walkers Salt and Vinegar crisps... lovely.

with Jenn Burt
net 25/Jan/08 AltLd

Shaw lead most of it!

Shaw Brown 25/Jan/08 AltLd
with net
Hidden ??/2008 -
Phil PBC ??/2008 -
lyneux 25/Nov/07 AltLd O/S

I lead even-numbered pitches

with Chris Glasson
haydng 18/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with RMG
ioboy 07/Nov/07 AltLd
with Dave
Jon Pilling ?/Jun/07 Lead β
with Giles Penn
kitkat78 31/May/07 AltLd
with Sarah C
Hidden 02/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
hamish2016 ?/Apr/07 Lead dnf

I lead P1, Ross lead P2, then it started raining and Ross dropped his belay device down the face so we decided to retreat. We abseiled back down (lovely abseil down slab!) in the rain and got bombarded by angry seagulls. A fun morning!

with Ross Overhead
roverhead ?/Apr/07 2nd dnf
Chesh 05/Mar/07 AltLd

and Graham Meigh. Climbed pitch 2 of Polvos magicos at 6a+.

with Phil B
Hidden ?/Mar/07 Solo
steve mee 24/Feb/07 AltLd
with Mike Frith
Weedyskid ?/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
SteveM 02/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
with Corky
Hidden ?/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
auld al ?/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Dec/06 AltLd O/S
BruceW 28/Dec/06 AltLd O/S

What a horrible shiney crux pitch. Slab and view over ridge great!

with bectodd
jl 16/Dec/06 Lead O/S
with pennyb
pennyb 16/Dec/06 2nd O/S
with jl
John HW ?/Dec/06 Lead O/S

Instructing on Tarquin's Exped 2 x students

with 2 x Students
featuresforfeet 26/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
with Angel
Sylvi 16/Nov/06 AltLd
rilem 01/Nov/06 -
The Bad Cough 29/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with rab
andy mcc ?/Sep/06 Lead
with Arifa Chakera, Jason King & Kirsty Hogg
DerwentDiluted 07/Aug/06 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
timstyles 11/May/06 AltLd O/S

Huw P1,3,5,7+8; Tim P2,4,6

with Huw Howells
Hidden 14/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/06 -
antroy 23/Mar/06 AltLd
Allan Young 20/Mar/06 AltLd dog
with Liz Kay
9fingerjon ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S

Various types of wildlife encountered

with Rich H
WRMusall 18/Jan/06 AltLd
with Chris R and Gary
Hidden ?/Jan/06 2nd β
mikelaing ??/2006 -
dfbpdave ??/2006 AltLd
Hidden ??/2006 -
steve mee 08/Dec/05 AltLd
with mrsmish
Adrian Daniels 30/Sep/05 AltLd
Steve Webster 30/Sep/05 AltLd
A Downing ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Monkton
Hidden 20/May/05 AltLd
Peter Metcalfe 25/Apr/05 AltLd

Would get HS 4+ if not for the horrendously polished crack. Homicidal gulls can make life interesting.

with David Hudson
Stuart Macfarlane 11/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
with Dave M, el diablo
el diablo 11/Apr/05 AltLd
Hidden 02/Mar/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/05 AltLd
matty123 13/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
with Fred Salt
Hidden 10/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
WRMusall 16/Jan/05 2nd
mjeffery ?/Jan/05 AltLd O/S

In the snow!

Hidden ??/2005 -
tapley 26/Nov/04 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 24/Oct/04 Lead
Celia Watson 24/Oct/04 2nd
Phil West 16/Sep/04 AltLd O/S

I led 1st, 3rd, 5th & 7th(Scramble) pitches.

with Shaun Walby
shaun walby 16/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
with Phil West
Katex ?/Jun/04 AltLd dnf

Chased off by ferocious seagulls. The excellent sushi restaurant nearby made up for it though.

with Simon Edwards
Jason Gotel ?/May/04 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
Hidden ??/2004 -
Ken lindsay ??/2004 AltLd O/S
HansStuttgart ??/2004 -
TimPerkin 28/Nov/03 AltLd O/S
with Mark Perkin
hayleylouise 16/Sep/03 2nd
with Holly Adamthwaite
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
gjd 01/Jun/03 AltLd
with emily
dave o ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with JuliaH
Hidden 28/Feb/03 AltLd
Matt Rowat 28/Feb/03 AltLd O/S

Awesome day out- may have gone slightly off route once or twice. A mini adventure!

with Owen
Goody 24/Feb/03 2nd O/S
with Jon Edwards, Jim Dewhurst
Ander 26/Jan/03 AltLd
with Kev
Tarquin ??/2003 -
Hidden ??/2003 2nd O/S
dan gibson ?/Dec/02 Lead O/S
with karing
Allan Young 30/Oct/02 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Robinson
MikeC59 22/May/02 2nd
chrishedgehog 30/Apr/02 AltLd O/S
with Joe Thompson
Rob Davies 17/Apr/02 AltLd

Crux is like a polished VS in Derbyshire. Nice exposed slab above.

with David Kinniburgh, Charles Kinniburgh
Hidden 12/Apr/02 AltLd O/S
Howard J 28/Feb/02 Lead rpt
with Steve Astley
WRMusall 17/Feb/02 AltLd dnf

Climbed first 3 pitches, got lost on 4th pitch

Mark Stevenson 02/Dec/01 Lead rpt
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 09/Apr/01 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca
Hidden 13/Mar/01 Lead O/S
chris skipton 12/Feb/01 AltLd rpt

A good day with a good partner, but hit by migraine near the top.

John Brayshaw 12/Feb/01 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell ??/2001 AltLd rpt

Aided the shiny crux pitch

with Carmen and Mike
Howard J 02/Mar/00 AltLd dog

We pulled on the gear in the sweaty crack (who doesn't?)

with Julie Wassell
Simon Caldwell 31/Jan/00 AltLd O/S
with Ian A and Mike
EllieWoods 20/Dec/99 AltLd O/S
with Kath Rosedale
Mark Stevenson 16/Dec/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/99 AltLd O/S
chris skipton 22/Oct/99 AltLd O/S

A great expedition. Get an early start to reduce risk of stonefall from parties above. Led most of the pitches.

with CF, Hemo
Nigel R Lewis 23/Mar/99 AltLd
with Pete Bennett
Howard J 24/Feb/99 2nd
with Paul Barker
cpoad 16/Feb/99 Lead O/S
with Jo Macnab
tjekel ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Tarquin ??/1999 -
Richard Alderton 20/Dec/98 AltLd dnf

Failed on the crux pitch 3. Retreated to Calpe for beer.

with Travis
csalvage 11/Nov/98 AltLd
with Jack and Paul Jones
nige pacer ?/Apr/98 AltLd O/S
dickypips ?/Feb/98 AltLd
with john richards
apollo18 ??/1998 AltLd O/S
with The Youth
chris sm ?/Dec/97 AltLd O/S
with Nick Wheeler
Hidden ?/Jan/97 Lead
uphillnow ??/1997 AltLd
Tarquin ??/1997 -
Hidden ?/Apr/96 AltLd
brianrunner 15/Mar/96 AltLd

fun route

with steve wells, martina
Nick Biven 25/Dec/95 -
Mick r 08/Dec/95 AltLd O/S
with Jim Kirkwood
EddieA ?/Nov/95 AltLd O/S

I got the polished crack pitch

with Simon W
Neil Conway 26/Sep/95 2nd O/S
with Steve Hardy
Hidden ?/Feb/95 AltLd
Yourlead ?/Oct/94 Lead
with Ric Gregory
Scott McRae ?/Apr/94 AltLd O/S

Steve led slab pitch of UBSA direct. Long hot day, but great positions.

with Steve Lucas
Hidden 30/Nov/93 AltLd O/S
freeheel47 ??/1993 AltLd
lithos ?/Mar/92 AltLd
Chris Ellis 15/Dec/91 AltLd
with Ernie Horrocks, Andy Barker
Hidden ?/May/88 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 -
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High 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
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Votes cast 51
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set