245m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
VS. This famous route is too unbalanced and scrappy to be a real classic, but it is popular and takes an easy line up this magnificent big face. Although it is quite an expedition, retreat by abseil is fairly easy. There is a fair amount of fixed gear, but carry a light rack. The short crux pitch has become desperately polished - many use a bit of aid here.
1) 3, 35m. Climb first right, then back left and onto the base of the big white slab - loose. Belay bolts on the left or right.
2) 3, 45m. Walk left past bushes to gain a ledge running back right above the slab and belay directly above your second.
3) 5+, 35m. Climb the corner at the right-hand end of the ledge, then the tough slippery right-slanting crack (the crux, and very polished). The direct version straight up the corner is rumoured to be easier. Move left to belay below the upper slab.
4) 4, 20m. Climb left onto the slab to a bush belay.
5) 4, 30m. One pitch leads to a superb belay on the ridge.
6) 4+, 30m. Walk along the ridge then traverse to the left and climb a flake/crack to a bulge. Belay on bolts a little higher.
7) 20m. Climb rightwards by the easiest line. Belay in a notch.
8) 30m. Easy climbing leads to the summit. © Rockfax

FA. A.Martí, M.Gómez, A.Botella, A.Tebar 1958

Ticklists

Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Steff 21 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice route. Didn't find it easy. Do yourself a favour and pull on the tat to do the crux. It's a big route, where "alpine tactics" are justified.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very nice route. Didn't find it easy. Do yourself a favour and pull on the tat to do the crux. It's a big route, where "alpine tactics" are justified.
Armchairmountaineer 28 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I led this route on Christmas Eve in stunning weather and it was magnificent. However, the crux pitch is pretty stiff: a good 5+ and very polished too. I normally lead VS 4c so found it pretty tough. I don't think Pitch 6 is undergraded, although when I was standing at the bottom it looked far harder than it actually was! Getting round the bulge is a pretty satisfying move (4) when you make it and you can protect it well. There were a couple of thin moves on the slab pitch (4) for the short. Gary has a very valid point: don't underestimate it! However, perhaps the most important piece of advice is to wear a helmet and watch out for loose rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I led this route on Christmas Eve in stunning weather and it was magnificent. However, the crux pitch is pretty stiff: a good 5+ and very polished too. I normally lead VS 4c so found it pretty tough. I don't think Pitch 6 is undergraded, although when I was standing at the bottom it looked far harder than it actually was! Getting round the bulge is a pretty satisfying move (4) when you make it and you can protect it well. There were a couple of thin moves on the slab pitch (4) for the short. Gary has a very valid point: don't underestimate it! However, perhaps the most important piece of advice is to wear a helmet and watch out for loose rock.
Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'd second everything that Shaun Walby says...nicely sustained at Severe, overall. The polished pitch felt no harder than MVS to me - I'd say that in terms of difficulty it compares well with infamous cruxy sections on long British Severes like Eagle Ridge. I assumed it was HS when I did it. It's a fine route, but horribly popular so start at dawn, and watch out for loose rocks sent down by parties above. It's possible - indeed I'd recommend it - to make a variety of bolted detour pitches at 6a-6b, which provide nicer climbing than the equivalent pitches of Valencianos itself, and help you skirt round the queues. Near the bottom of Valencianos is a pitch up a smooth corner (as I recall...or it might have taken the slab immediately left of the corner), and then a little distance above this there's a steep 6b (I think) wall climb on juggy cracks up the wall bounding the left side of Valencianos. The main route can then be re-joined in time to tackle the big slabby wall section, which is after all the meat of the route, and the only 3-star bit...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd second everything that Shaun Walby says...nicely sustained at Severe, overall. The polished pitch felt no harder than MVS to me - I'd say that in terms of difficulty it compares well with infamous cruxy sections on long British Severes like Eagle Ridge. I assumed it was HS when I did it. It's a fine route, but horribly popular so start at dawn, and watch out for loose rocks sent down by parties above. It's possible - indeed I'd recommend it - to make a variety of bolted detour pitches at 6a-6b, which provide nicer climbing than the equivalent pitches of Valencianos itself, and help you skirt round the queues. Near the bottom of Valencianos is a pitch up a smooth corner (as I recall...or it might have taken the slab immediately left of the corner), and then a little distance above this there's a steep 6b (I think) wall climb on juggy cracks up the wall bounding the left side of Valencianos. The main route can then be re-joined in time to tackle the big slabby wall section, which is after all the meat of the route, and the only 3-star bit...
shaun walby 5 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The climb is 95% Severe 4a with more insitu gear than you can shake a quickdraw at. The crux is above a big ledge so in effect your only 6ft of the deck (one cam and two rope lopes to help you if you dont do polish)yer yer its polished to death (but easy enough).The slabs above and the moves after the ridge are perfect severe 4a fodder(if you used to been heigher upon multipitch). Now having said that.....its has a bit of a mountain feel about it, so if 50ft grit is your thing you might just have to be leading HS4b to be totally happy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The climb is 95% Severe 4a with more insitu gear than you can shake a quickdraw at. The crux is above a big ledge so in effect your only 6ft of the deck (one cam and two rope lopes to help you if you dont do polish)yer yer its polished to death (but easy enough).The slabs above and the moves after the ridge are perfect severe 4a fodder(if you used to been heigher upon multipitch). Now having said that.....its has a bit of a mountain feel about it, so if 50ft grit is your thing you might just have to be leading HS4b to be totally happy.
Ander 29 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. I agree that HVS climbers will be disappointed, but if you're after something easier, then it is a must do, the 'hard pitch', I thought, went quite easily. Pitch 5 is awesome.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. I agree that HVS climbers will be disappointed, but if you're after something easier, then it is a must do, the 'hard pitch', I thought, went quite easily. Pitch 5 is awesome.
Simon Caldwell 27 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: To Simon A - what nonsense. It's an 8 pitch Severe with a single polished unpleasant but aidable pitch of HVS. If you're looking for an HVS route you'll be disappointed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: To Simon A - what nonsense. It's an 8 pitch Severe with a single polished unpleasant but aidable pitch of HVS. If you're looking for an HVS route you'll be disappointed.
EmilyG 26 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Most of the route was so polished it took away all the enjoyment of climbing the route, and the bits that weren't polished were loose and chossy!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Most of the route was so polished it took away all the enjoyment of climbing the route, and the bits that weren't polished were loose and chossy!
Simon Caldwell 18 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The obvious reason for wanting to frig the third pitch would be if you can climb 4 but not 5+
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The obvious reason for wanting to frig the third pitch would be if you can climb 4 but not 5+
drpetermorgan 18 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i love this route and have done it twice. pitch 5 and 6 are good and exposed. its harder using the tat than not on pitch 3, it just gets in the way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i love this route and have done it twice. pitch 5 and 6 are good and exposed. its harder using the tat than not on pitch 3, it just gets in the way.
Simon Caldwell 5 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Eh? Only one pitch (3) is badly polished, and if you object that much you can go straight up (earthy exit) instead of going right. The whole thing's worth it if only for pitch 5.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Eh? Only one pitch (3) is badly polished, and if you object that much you can go straight up (earthy exit) instead of going right. The whole thing's worth it if only for pitch 5.
Ally Smith 5 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: yuck, don't do it. The polish is something else 9and this comes from an Avon habitue)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: yuck, don't do it. The polish is something else 9and this comes from an Avon habitue)
Simon Caldwell 22 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: In situ tat on pitch 3 meakes it possible to aid (ie frig) it, bringing the overall grade down to a more consistent level (4+/5?).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In situ tat on pitch 3 meakes it possible to aid (ie frig) it, bringing the overall grade down to a more consistent level (4+/5?).
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Krystal 19 Dec, 2019 AltLd dnf
Marc Roig 19 Dec, 2019 AltLd dnf Got through the 5+ crux but decided to absail down after it because Krystal wasn't feeling great.
with Krystal
Got through the 5+ crux but decided to absail down after it because Krystal wasn't feeling great.
with Krystal
Steve Woollard 18 Dec, 2019 AltLd
with Rafael, Eva
with Rafael, Eva
Eva 18 Dec, 2019 AltLd O/S Block leads in a three. Did the last 3 pitches
Block leads in a three. Did the last 3 pitches
Jakcam 17 Dec, 2019 Lead
venny 5 Dec, 2019 AltLd
with Hastie
with Hastie
Hidden 5 Dec, 2019 AltLd O/S
Glenb86 28 Nov, 2019 2nd O/S
with Joe Gittins
with Joe Gittins
Jamesnorton31 28 Nov, 2019 AltLd
Andy Williams 27 Nov, 2019 Lead
LanceSolf 22 Nov, 2019 AltLd O/S
with The Griffalo
with The Griffalo
Jamiemcgrory 21 Nov, 2019 AltLd
Carlm 20 Nov, 2019 AltLd
with Phil Don
with Phil Don
DazOwens 20 Nov, 2019 2nd
with Mike401
with Mike401
james5810 20 Nov, 2019 2nd O/S
Mike401 20 Nov, 2019 2nd
Pinguville 16 Nov, 2019 Lead Great to tick off the penon ! Route finding was pretty easy , glassy corner no where near as bad as people say ! And then move up out right then left to stance . - only thing I would say is don’t climb on a Saturday ! And watch out for rock fall , it’s real ! A few narrow escapes , all in all easy climbing didn’t feel any harder than 5 to me ( apart from the crack that you should just aid ... a bit )
Great to tick off the penon ! Route finding was pretty easy , glassy corner no where near as bad as people say ! And then move up out right then left to stance . - only thing I would say is don’t climb on a Saturday ! And watch out for rock fall , it’s real ! A few narrow escapes , all in all easy climbing didn’t feel any harder than 5 to me ( apart from the crack that you should just aid ... a bit )
HannahGo 15 Nov, 2019 AltLd dog
with Jack Blundy
with Jack Blundy
Hidden 20 Oct, 2019 AltLd dog
mikestr555 20 Oct, 2019 AltLd Pitches 1,,4 via valencianos Pitches 2,3 direct de ubsa³
Pitches 1,,4 via valencianos Pitches 2,3 direct de ubsa³
ABeadle 5 Oct, 2019 Lead
with samwfd
with samwfd
samwfd 5 Oct, 2019 AltLd Made a few mistakes 1 - not taking enough water in the peak of summer 2 - getting the wrong route and ending up doing a 6a+ crux 3 - did another pitch that felt like 6b but rested and aid climbed the Crux of the pitch because I was absolutely shagged. Lots of lessons learned during the process. Great views from the top. Attention to detail is key. Hardest I've climbed to date EVER.
Made a few mistakes 1 - not taking enough water in the peak of summer 2 - getting the wrong route and ending up doing a 6a+ crux 3 - did another pitch that felt like 6b but rested and aid climbed the Crux of the pitch because I was absolutely shagged. Lots of lessons learned during the process. Great views from the top. Attention to detail is key. Hardest I've climbed to date EVER.
Tash_Barnes 2 Aug, 2019 2nd
Matt_Power 2 Aug, 2019 Lead dnf Eyes were way too big for my stomach on this route, ended up accepting the loss at the top of the third pitch and went to abseil off. Unfortunately our half ropes got snagged while pulling through and after two hours of trying to free them getting baked in the sun we cut off what we had pulled through and conducted a series of emergency abseil leaving behind some gear. Alot learned from an unsuccessful outing.
Eyes were way too big for my stomach on this route, ended up accepting the loss at the top of the third pitch and went to abseil off. Unfortunately our half ropes got snagged while pulling through and after two hours of trying to free them getting baked in the sun we cut off what we had pulled through and conducted a series of emergency abseil leaving behind some gear. Alot learned from an unsuccessful outing.
Tom Poulter 23 Jul, 2019 - Fantastic route. Started very early as it was scorching hot. Thought i'd bottle it halfway up the 1st pitch but gradually my nerves settled and my climbing improved. An awesome day out with Mark Edwards from Compass West.
with Mark Edwards
Fantastic route. Started very early as it was scorching hot. Thought i'd bottle it halfway up the 1st pitch but gradually my nerves settled and my climbing improved. An awesome day out with Mark Edwards from Compass West.
with Mark Edwards
Blanka 4 Jul, 2019 AltLd β Fabulous climb Pitch 3 (crux) felt sandbag even as a second. Did it without using any aid though :)
Fabulous climb Pitch 3 (crux) felt sandbag even as a second. Did it without using any aid though :)
mmac195 15 Jun, 2019 AltLd O/S Jordan lead pitches 1, 3, 4, 6. Crux (P3) incredibly polished and not particularly enjoyable. P5 ends with an amazing belay. Mostly bolted / in situ gear, small rack definitely recommended and extendable draws a must.
with jordanclimbs
Jordan lead pitches 1, 3, 4, 6. Crux (P3) incredibly polished and not particularly enjoyable. P5 ends with an amazing belay. Mostly bolted / in situ gear, small rack definitely recommended and extendable draws a must.
with jordanclimbs
jordanclimbs 15 Jun, 2019 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1, 3, 4, 6. Crux on 3 extremely polished! Take lots of extendable draws. Took 5hours
with Mike Macmillan
Lead pitches 1, 3, 4, 6. Crux on 3 extremely polished! Take lots of extendable draws. Took 5hours
with Mike Macmillan
Gambit 10 Apr, 2019 Lead rpt Done with my kids and nearly got wiped out by loose rock. Date a guess.
with Adam, Ethan
Done with my kids and nearly got wiped out by loose rock. Date a guess.
with Adam, Ethan
Hidden 9 Apr, 2019 Lead O/S
Alison Page 9 Apr, 2019 2nd
with Angus, Jon
with Angus, Jon
ShaneMoore 8 Mar, 2019 Lead O/S amazing, slippery fun on the 3rd pitch
amazing, slippery fun on the 3rd pitch
Rich.Sullivan96 8 Mar, 2019 2nd
Hidden 1 Mar, 2019 Lead O/S
KLPearson 1 Mar, 2019 2nd
Willythegreat 25 Feb, 2019 Lead
Jakcam 18 Jan, 2019 2nd O/S
jcoup 12 Jan, 2019 Lead Lead every pitch. Plenty of loose rock on the first few pitches. Used aid on the crux which is ridiculously polished. Upper slabs made up for it though! Amazing climbing and loads of exposure.
Lead every pitch. Plenty of loose rock on the first few pitches. Used aid on the crux which is ridiculously polished. Upper slabs made up for it though! Amazing climbing and loads of exposure.
Smithy90 21 Dec, 2018 Lead
peterbradshaw101 17 Dec, 2018 AltLd
with lithos
with lithos
lithos 17 Dec, 2018 AltLd
Jonny Harrison 29 Nov, 2018 AltLd rpt
with Bob Alexander , Daz Williams
with Bob Alexander , Daz Williams
Jamiemcgrory 29 Nov, 2018 AltLd
Andrew Knight 29 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
Bob Alexander 29 Nov, 2018 AltLd
with Jon Harrison
with Jon Harrison
robblowen 26 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S Pitches 3 - 8, planned on doing the slab pitches after doing the lower pitches of polvos magicos but bailed onto this earlier to avoid some serious rockfall!
Pitches 3 - 8, planned on doing the slab pitches after doing the lower pitches of polvos magicos but bailed onto this earlier to avoid some serious rockfall!
ashtond6 26 Nov, 2018 Lead
Hidden 21 Nov, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 9 Nov, 2018 2nd
mikestr555 16 Oct, 2018 -
danhaydnfitz 15 Oct, 2018 AltLd β 8 pitches swing leads with Jamie Waddington- led pitches 2,4,6,8
with Jamie Waddington
8 pitches swing leads with Jamie Waddington- led pitches 2,4,6,8
with Jamie Waddington
Amy Kilpin 15 Oct, 2018 2nd
DanC1985 10 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Sarah
with Sarah
Jonny Crean 24 May, 2018 AltLd
humptydumpty 28 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Saw a snake at the top of P5. Freed the chimney - it's not bad if you like that kind of thing. Got attached by seagulls. Fantastic. As for gear, I remember placing a couple of slings and two nuts - sling on P1 to direct the rope around a corner, first nut on the traverse on P2 to protect my second, and the other next to a bolt before the chimney, because I was scared the bolt might come unclipped(??!) Also a thread on P6.
Saw a snake at the top of P5. Freed the chimney - it's not bad if you like that kind of thing. Got attached by seagulls. Fantastic. As for gear, I remember placing a couple of slings and two nuts - sling on P1 to direct the rope around a corner, first nut on the traverse on P2 to protect my second, and the other next to a bolt before the chimney, because I was scared the bolt might come unclipped(??!) Also a thread on P6.
Hidden 20 Apr, 2018 AltLd RP
PanzerHanzler 19 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S Led p1 p3 p5 & 6. Pitch 3 clean lead no pulling on gear required at this grade.
Led p1 p3 p5 & 6. Pitch 3 clean lead no pulling on gear required at this grade.
99bolivar 9 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S
with Richard Smith, Aaron Campion, Ged Campion, Tim Josephy
with Richard Smith, Aaron Campion, Ged Campion, Tim Josephy
mkbk93 ?Apr, 2018 AltLd dnf
with Dan Webster
with Dan Webster
Jonty Mills 14 Mar, 2018 Lead A star for situation etc. The climbing must once have been good but now the polish detracts from the whole route, making it feel poky rather than straightforward. The first two pitches are poor, the third is super slippy but sort of fun(!). Pitch 4 and 5 up the slabs would be excellent but impossible to trust your feet and thus enjoy. Glad to have done it but won't rush back.
A star for situation etc. The climbing must once have been good but now the polish detracts from the whole route, making it feel poky rather than straightforward. The first two pitches are poor, the third is super slippy but sort of fun(!). Pitch 4 and 5 up the slabs would be excellent but impossible to trust your feet and thus enjoy. Glad to have done it but won't rush back.
5eamuz 17 Feb, 2018 AltLd
with Michal Samsel, HP9
with Michal Samsel, HP9
HP9 17 Feb, 2018 AltLd
with 5eamuz
with 5eamuz
pftom 1 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P1,3,5 &6
with Barry Whale
Led P1,3,5 &6
with Barry Whale
Hidden 1 Jan, 2018 AltLd
Naomi Havercroft 15 Dec, 2017 AltLd
tmawer 5 Dec, 2017 Lead rpt After failing to find the belay on Paratas!
with Maz
After failing to find the belay on Paratas!
with Maz
MazElden 5 Dec, 2017 AltLd Only did one pitch of this due to problem finding 3rd pitch of another climb. Tony finished it off
with tmawer
Only did one pitch of this due to problem finding 3rd pitch of another climb. Tony finished it off
with tmawer
MichelleGreensted 30 Nov, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 9 Nov, 2017 AltLd
Becky 20 Oct, 2017 AltLd RP
with Dom
with Dom
Dominicgriff 20 Oct, 2017 AltLd RP Second pitch we took the 6a direct line up the slab from UBSA
Second pitch we took the 6a direct line up the slab from UBSA
Chownsy 3 Apr, 2017 AltLd dog Pitch 3 is ridiculously slippy, smooth, polished rock that felt like a 6b in my eyes and that was on a second,fair play to my partner who lead that pitch.
Pitch 3 is ridiculously slippy, smooth, polished rock that felt like a 6b in my eyes and that was on a second,fair play to my partner who lead that pitch.
Paul16 3 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf We gave up in disgust - if polished limestone is your thing then go for it, but not one we enjoyed so we abbed off from the third pitch and went for beers. Third pitch is 6a+/6b with the polish (by the direct route).
with Ian
We gave up in disgust - if polished limestone is your thing then go for it, but not one we enjoyed so we abbed off from the third pitch and went for beers. Third pitch is 6a+/6b with the polish (by the direct route).
with Ian
GStone 19 Mar, 2017 AltLd
with Dan3266
with Dan3266
Dan3266 19 Mar, 2017 AltLd
with GStone
with GStone
teamvix 18 Mar, 2017 2nd Cris led; I seconded. Our first multipitch.
with Cristiano
Cris led; I seconded. Our first multipitch.
with Cristiano
Mick r 2 Mar, 2017 Lead rpt Went for the direct second pitch up the slab, rather than the corner. Foot slipped on the crux move, otherwise, great climb up the slabs above
with Chris Gooder
Went for the direct second pitch up the slab, rather than the corner. Foot slipped on the crux move, otherwise, great climb up the slabs above
with Chris Gooder
Hidden 26 Feb, 2017 -
Mark Eddy 26 Feb, 2017 Lead Even more polished than I remembered it being! Still a worthwhile route.
with Ann Leese, KateA
Even more polished than I remembered it being! Still a worthwhile route.
with Ann Leese, KateA
Becky 21 Feb, 2017 Lead dnf
with Olly Ray
with Olly Ray
OliverR17 21 Feb, 2017 2nd dnf Abbed off - 3rd pitch was very highly polished
Abbed off - 3rd pitch was very highly polished
pdamann 17 Feb, 2017 AltLd Led P2,4,6,8, taking the variation up the corner. I confess to aiding the slippery rock on second with the pack on.
Led P2,4,6,8, taking the variation up the corner. I confess to aiding the slippery rock on second with the pack on.
Hidden 17 Feb, 2017 AltLd
HumphreyJ20 11 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
Valentino 11 Feb, 2017 AltLd rpt
craig naylor 7 Feb, 2017 AltLd
with kris
with kris
kellyb (velvet.mustard) 3 Jan, 2017 2nd Slab variation for pitch two, lovely day. Busy penon!!
Slab variation for pitch two, lovely day. Busy penon!!
Shaw Brown 3 Jan, 2017 Lead Did the slab variation on pitch 2, quite tricky to do clean with a heavyish rucksack. Did the whole route with just quickdraws but you have to happy with 30ft runouts.
Did the slab variation on pitch 2, quite tricky to do clean with a heavyish rucksack. Did the whole route with just quickdraws but you have to happy with 30ft runouts.
judith neaves 3 Jan, 2017 2nd
rachelpearce01 25 Dec, 2016 AltLd Christmas Day 2016! A great end to 2 months in Costa blanca, despite injuries and stolen gear. Despite the climb being very polished, especially in trainers it was still good for the setting. Blue seas and sky and finished with an ice cream in the harbour. Horrid slimy walk off though.
with George Sanderson
Christmas Day 2016! A great end to 2 months in Costa blanca, despite injuries and stolen gear. Despite the climb being very polished, especially in trainers it was still good for the setting. Blue seas and sky and finished with an ice cream in the harbour. Horrid slimy walk off though.
with George Sanderson
George_Surf 25 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S Christmas climb! 5hrs (2hrs approach/descent) car to car; started about 12pm. First two pitches are scrappy followed by the glassy corner. Gets a bit nicer after that, pitch 5 was enjoyable (and 6). Really nice above the sea, no wind and hot. The walk down was much worse than I remember. Skating around on muddy polish...
Christmas climb! 5hrs (2hrs approach/descent) car to car; started about 12pm. First two pitches are scrappy followed by the glassy corner. Gets a bit nicer after that, pitch 5 was enjoyable (and 6). Really nice above the sea, no wind and hot. The walk down was much worse than I remember. Skating around on muddy polish...
Scottysparks 24 Nov, 2016 2nd O/S Completed on last day of Ex SPANROCK
with Grace Stelfox
Completed on last day of Ex SPANROCK
with Grace Stelfox
Hidden 19 Nov, 2016 AltLd
Higher Primate 19 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1, 2, 7 and 8. Lots of polish on pitches 1-4.
with Rob Harden, Ryder
Lead pitches 1, 2, 7 and 8. Lots of polish on pitches 1-4.
with Rob Harden, Ryder
tiga271 6 Nov, 2016 AltLd
with Dave
with Dave
gaz3212 1 Nov, 2016 AltLd
my 27 Oct, 2016 - Led all 8 pitches, 3.5 hr total
Led all 8 pitches, 3.5 hr total
Jack Manfredi 1 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with Dad
with Dad
j_hiscox 27 Apr, 2016 2nd dog
Hidden 30 Dec, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Dec, 2015 Lead O/S
DavidR 30 Dec, 2015 AltLd rpt 2 hours 40 minutes. Straight after doing Costa Blanca in the morning. Pitch 1 - Dave; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Dave; Pitch 8 - Dave.
2 hours 40 minutes. Straight after doing Costa Blanca in the morning. Pitch 1 - Dave; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Dave; Pitch 8 - Dave.
Mark Eddy 14 Dec, 2015 Lead Even slipper than I remember! Good climb though, especially on the upper slab
with KateA
Even slipper than I remember! Good climb though, especially on the upper slab
with KateA
Hidden 14 Dec, 2015 2nd
Martin Bennett 12 Dec, 2015 - Alan's last climb? He says at the moment. For a change did the original finish round to the left. A bit veg but OK.
with AlanB
Alan's last climb? He says at the moment. For a change did the original finish round to the left. A bit veg but OK.
with AlanB
Mike Dudley 9 Dec, 2015 Lead dnf After descending Diedro UBSA, caught up with rest of the team on this but we abbed off as a group at the shiny corner when it suddenly rained very heavily.
After descending Diedro UBSA, caught up with rest of the team on this but we abbed off as a group at the shiny corner when it suddenly rained very heavily.
pauldrew 7 Dec, 2015 AltLd
with Kevin Sales
with Kevin Sales
swmackey 26 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
Zoomer 26 Nov, 2015 AltLd rpt Another lap of the old classic with a Spanrock student.
with A Student
Another lap of the old classic with a Spanrock student.
with A Student
Cerris90 25 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Kenty
with Kenty
louisnewman 25 Nov, 2015 AltLd
Kenty 25 Nov, 2015 AltLd
GStone 24 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Jamie Ward
with Jamie Ward
jamie ward 24 Nov, 2015 AltLd
with Simon Gladstone
with Simon Gladstone
payney1973 24 Nov, 2015 Lead Lead all but pitch 4
Lead all but pitch 4
Hidden ?Nov, 2015 AltLd
Hidden ?Nov, 2015 AltLd G/U
Gibbs3799 ?Nov, 2015 AltLd
dmorgan27 9 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S Pitch 1 is rather scruffy, pitch 3 is very polished and hard but pitches 4, 5 and 6 make up for it. Fabulous positions and exposure. Plus make sure you take some food for the cats living on the top.
with Terryl
Pitch 1 is rather scruffy, pitch 3 is very polished and hard but pitches 4, 5 and 6 make up for it. Fabulous positions and exposure. Plus make sure you take some food for the cats living on the top.
with Terryl
Jonno30 18 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Amazing climb, the 5+ was insanely smooth but the next three pitches were amazing.
Amazing climb, the 5+ was insanely smooth but the next three pitches were amazing.
sibluer ?Jul, 2015 AltLd
jon59 3 Apr, 2015 Lead
Sam2257 1 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S route is ruined by the utterly awful 3rd pitch, 1st two are a little poor as well, but marginally made up for by the excellent slabs of p 4 & 5. lead p 1, 3, 5 & 8
route is ruined by the utterly awful 3rd pitch, 1st two are a little poor as well, but marginally made up for by the excellent slabs of p 4 & 5. lead p 1, 3, 5 & 8
boman1882 31 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
Puckle 20 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Took the direct line up the 6a UBSA for the second pitch, tough but fun!
Took the direct line up the 6a UBSA for the second pitch, tough but fun!
darrenpp ?Mar, 2015 AltLd
cissacarvalho 19 Feb, 2015 AltLd
with Alfonso
with Alfonso
jamie ward 5 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S DNF - RAIN STOPPED PLAY
with Ellis Blower
DNF - RAIN STOPPED PLAY
with Ellis Blower
Hidden ??, 2015 AltLd
dsears ??, 2015 -
bob johnson 31 Dec, 2014 AltLd
with Bram
with Bram
Hidden 31 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Dec, 2014 AltLd
alpinismo.uk 24 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S
olekemi 22 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S As others have said, the crux us polished, but still well climbable clean. A very nice climb.
with Heike P
As others have said, the crux us polished, but still well climbable clean. A very nice climb.
with Heike P
Hidden 27 Nov, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 27 Nov, 2014 AltLd
SteChappie 25 Nov, 2014 2nd Led last pitch
Led last pitch
Hotcake ?Nov, 2014 AltLd MP. Mainly trad (very spaced bolts). Really good climbing especially P4-6. Hard crux at polished crack but well protected by a bolt so no real danger as you squirm up! - needed the tat!
MP. Mainly trad (very spaced bolts). Really good climbing especially P4-6. Hard crux at polished crack but well protected by a bolt so no real danger as you squirm up! - needed the tat!
Alex 74 21 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Hannah
with Hannah
Hidden 11 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
NatCheeseman ?Sep, 2014 -
with tobra
with tobra
Hidden 25 Apr, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 24 Apr, 2014 Lead
hayden cook 23 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 23 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
daveclarke5 16 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Stephen
with Stephen
bigrob 2 Apr, 2014 Lead
with em whitehouse
with em whitehouse
jon59 25 Mar, 2014 Lead Ive lead this a few times now over the years with different people, the 5+ pitch is ridiculously polished far more than i remember. The polish spoils the route to the point of un-climbability, i won't be doing this route again theres far better about with far less polish.
Ive lead this a few times now over the years with different people, the 5+ pitch is ridiculously polished far more than i remember. The polish spoils the route to the point of un-climbability, i won't be doing this route again theres far better about with far less polish.
Hidden 18 Mar, 2014 2nd
leemagowan 3 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Recce
Recce
Rich ??, 2014 -
Jonny Harrison ??, 2014 -
Hidden 31 Dec, 2013 2nd
scott mayled 15 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S Great climb with exposed positions, the 5+ section is like climbing glass. There is literally no way, to climb this section with finesse. Salmon out of water techniques needed!
with A student
Great climb with exposed positions, the 5+ section is like climbing glass. There is literally no way, to climb this section with finesse. Salmon out of water techniques needed!
with A student
JonesJ 12 Nov, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 10 Nov, 2013 2nd O/S
SHONAJONES 10 Nov, 2013 2nd O/S
with Zaheer
with Zaheer
Andrew Lester 7 Nov, 2013 Lead
Hidden 1 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
Zoomer 1 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S Teaching Gary for his RCI, under 3 hours bottom to top!
Teaching Gary for his RCI, under 3 hours bottom to top!
Hidden 1 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S
ashsleight 1 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S Led 1st, crux and 4+ pitch. Climbed as a three. Great belay on the ridge.
with tdoyle, Student
Led 1st, crux and 4+ pitch. Climbed as a three. Great belay on the ridge.
with tdoyle, Student
tdoyle 1 Nov, 2013 Lead
Hidden 22 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
Christian_S85 10 May, 2013 2nd rpt Climbed with Mick Barraclough, Ray Peace, Chris Hambly
Climbed with Mick Barraclough, Ray Peace, Chris Hambly
Hidden ?Apr, 2013 -
JohnMetcalfe 28 Mar, 2013 2nd
with Jose Garcia, Alex Metcalfe
with Jose Garcia, Alex Metcalfe
crampy11 27 Mar, 2013 Lead rpt
Hidden 17 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
carlh 20 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Bit windy, bit loose and a bit polished, but great positions and two or three good pitches towards the top. The two pitches leading up to ridge are nice (especially the long pitch) and the steep flake crack (final technical pitch) was great. The polished chimney pitch is exactly what it says on the tin! No tat/fixed gear, as mentoned in guide, but shouldn't be needed. It's tricky, but well protected. We climbed as a 3, with John Makin & me alternating pitches (and with Tony Myers in the middle). We had the route to ourselves, which was fantastic. A good first route for 2013! Make sure you stop for a beer and sign the logbook at the Dracular cafe afterwards! :)
Bit windy, bit loose and a bit polished, but great positions and two or three good pitches towards the top. The two pitches leading up to ridge are nice (especially the long pitch) and the steep flake crack (final technical pitch) was great. The polished chimney pitch is exactly what it says on the tin! No tat/fixed gear, as mentoned in guide, but shouldn't be needed. It's tricky, but well protected. We climbed as a 3, with John Makin & me alternating pitches (and with Tony Myers in the middle). We had the route to ourselves, which was fantastic. A good first route for 2013! Make sure you stop for a beer and sign the logbook at the Dracular cafe afterwards! :)
Hidden ??, 2013 AltLd
ashtond6 24 Dec, 2012 Lead
Hidden 10 Dec, 2012 Lead dog
Duncan Hardy 5 Dec, 2012 AltLd
with Si Burrows
with Si Burrows
Hidden 4 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
Sam_Marsland ?Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hills
with Andy Hills
Hidden ?Dec, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 30 Nov, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 Nov, 2012 AltLd
akhutton88 28 Nov, 2012 2nd Polished Chimney(!!!!) Went up HVS pitch straight up slab to chimney rather than the VS pitch by the bushes! Awesome.
with SPANROCK
Polished Chimney(!!!!) Went up HVS pitch straight up slab to chimney rather than the VS pitch by the bushes! Awesome.
with SPANROCK
simon mitchie 21 Nov, 2012 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1,3,5,7. Pitch 3 very polished, used chockstones in crack. Pitch 5 awesome peering over the ridge is amazing.
Led pitches 1,3,5,7. Pitch 3 very polished, used chockstones in crack. Pitch 5 awesome peering over the ridge is amazing.
charlesmfrench 18 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S Moved together on first 2 pitches.
with Alex
Moved together on first 2 pitches.
with Alex
adamsandy1 14 Nov, 2012 2nd O/S Multi Pitch
Multi Pitch
k2blow 2 Nov, 2012 AltLd aproach upto start and once there at 12ish was busy, (need early start to avoid traffic) turned out after 3rd pitch we were on us own, this route is a corker, one hard polished pitch 3rd, every other was fine, plenty of gear placements, and odd bolt and bits of tat, last two pitches linked up with 60m run out of rope to top, top day to top off a great week, thanks to master howes! take plenty of water! and descent footwear for walk down other side,
with john howes
aproach upto start and once there at 12ish was busy, (need early start to avoid traffic) turned out after 3rd pitch we were on us own, this route is a corker, one hard polished pitch 3rd, every other was fine, plenty of gear placements, and odd bolt and bits of tat, last two pitches linked up with 60m run out of rope to top, top day to top off a great week, thanks to master howes! take plenty of water! and descent footwear for walk down other side,
with john howes
The Bad Cough 12 Oct, 2012 AltLd rpt
with John Nesbitt
with John Nesbitt
Hidden 27 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
rovers777 25 May, 2012 2nd O/S
Zoomer 25 May, 2012 Lead Teaching 1 student. Tried the direct but realised it was a no go with a novice. Loads of seagulls/nests/chicks. Avoided being pecked all the way up, got to the top, took my helmet off and promptly got shat on!
with A Student
Teaching 1 student. Tried the direct but realised it was a no go with a novice. Loads of seagulls/nests/chicks. Avoided being pecked all the way up, got to the top, took my helmet off and promptly got shat on!
with A Student
gingergeorge 25 May, 2012 Lead
Hidden 4 May, 2012 Lead O/S
mdg skidmore 29 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
with joe penfold, clive dean
with joe penfold, clive dean
Joepenfold 23 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
mike_hough_uk 12 Apr, 2012 AltLd Alt leads
Alt leads
chri55ie 12 Apr, 2012 AltLd Lead Pitches 1, 3 and 6
Lead Pitches 1, 3 and 6
Hidden 8 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
Lev 8 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
with ramblecote, Adrian Ross, Emma
with ramblecote, Adrian Ross, Emma
Westcorkman 6 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Bob Dawson
with Bob Dawson
richyg 3 Apr, 2012 -
Hidden 2 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
simonwaters5 ?Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S A longish day carting a pack up this climb past a number of angry gulls. Some great positions and great climbing, and a very satisfying "big" climb to round off the trip. I led the odd pitches
with Gavin Edwards
A longish day carting a pack up this climb past a number of angry gulls. Some great positions and great climbing, and a very satisfying "big" climb to round off the trip. I led the odd pitches
with Gavin Edwards
judith neaves 19 Mar, 2012 2nd polvos magicos second pitch, 6a+ laternataive done
polvos magicos second pitch, 6a+ laternataive done
Shaw Brown 19 Mar, 2012 Lead Climbed the 6a+ pitch of Polvos Magicos as a variation, had to resort to a rest on a bolt :-( good slippery fun.
Climbed the 6a+ pitch of Polvos Magicos as a variation, had to resort to a rest on a bolt :-( good slippery fun.
jev ?Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Sian, Flo
with Sian, Flo
HodgePL ?Mar, 2012 AltLd
Valentino 27 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Climbed pitch 2 of direct UBSA 6a
Climbed pitch 2 of direct UBSA 6a
chriisu 18 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S My first "serious" multi-pitch climb! Awesome views on a sunny day and good climbing. We did the 2nd pitch as the 6a+ direct corner pitch variation (and one fall on this pitch).
My first "serious" multi-pitch climb! Awesome views on a sunny day and good climbing. We did the 2nd pitch as the 6a+ direct corner pitch variation (and one fall on this pitch).
valentinesbabe 17 Feb, 2012 AltLd I led P1 p3 and p5...had to have quite a few attempts at p3 though, downclimbed all bar one. Climbed last 3 pitches in the dark, 7 & 8 on toprope provided by Charley and Kev. Amazing how much you can see without a head torch. On the descent path we were met by a "sky-runner" policeman who had been sent to investigate as our headtorches had been spied from the town!!! :D Epic!!
I led P1 p3 and p5...had to have quite a few attempts at p3 though, downclimbed all bar one. Climbed last 3 pitches in the dark, 7 & 8 on toprope provided by Charley and Kev. Amazing how much you can see without a head torch. On the descent path we were met by a "sky-runner" policeman who had been sent to investigate as our headtorches had been spied from the town!!! :D Epic!!
chumleywarner 17 Feb, 2012 AltLd
Tithe Technique 17 Feb, 2012 AltLd dog Lead 2 and 7 clean, 5 dogged, rest clean with charley leading.
with charley
Lead 2 and 7 clean, 5 dogged, rest clean with charley leading.
with charley
charley 17 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S Led every pitch apart from pitch 2 and 7. Definitely more trad then sport. First 3 pitches were quite poor (first two were rubbish), the crack on the crux pitch is let down by the amount of polish but the next 3 pitches were good fun, especially climbing up to the ridge. Not sure I did the correct climb on pitch 6, didn't see the flake, went up a slab instead but did go over a small roof/bulge. Felt hard and bit scary but that was probably due to the monster rope drag I had going on then the actual climbing. Did the final scramble pitch in the dark.
Led every pitch apart from pitch 2 and 7. Definitely more trad then sport. First 3 pitches were quite poor (first two were rubbish), the crack on the crux pitch is let down by the amount of polish but the next 3 pitches were good fun, especially climbing up to the ridge. Not sure I did the correct climb on pitch 6, didn't see the flake, went up a slab instead but did go over a small roof/bulge. Felt hard and bit scary but that was probably due to the monster rope drag I had going on then the actual climbing. Did the final scramble pitch in the dark.
Hidden 12 Feb, 2012 2nd O/S
Jonny M 12 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
with The Pix
with The Pix
khumbu-Kid ?Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Valentino
with Valentino
Mark Eddy 5 Jan, 2012 AltLd
Sam_Marsland 5 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
FrancescaFord 2 Jan, 2012 AltLd Led evens. Pitch 3...polished is not the word...
with MN
Led evens. Pitch 3...polished is not the word...
with MN
Mark Eddy ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Richard P Coates 19 Dec, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Brad
with Brad
Steve13 6 Dec, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Aurelia, clukins
with Aurelia, clukins
Hidden ?Dec, 2011 AltLd
clukins ?Dec, 2011 Lead O/S
with Steve13
with Steve13
ST3V10 ?Dec, 2011 AltLd Apart from the slab going to the ridge belay this is shit do your self a favour climb something a little harder and enjoy yourself.
Apart from the slab going to the ridge belay this is shit do your self a favour climb something a little harder and enjoy yourself.
stevens744 16 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S Awsome Climb very nice day done in 3 hours with 2 other partners
with Andy Span rock
Awsome Climb very nice day done in 3 hours with 2 other partners
with Andy Span rock
Hidden 15 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S
Will Gordon 11 Nov, 2011 Lead rpt
with Novice
with Novice
1918hasti 11 Nov, 2011 AltLd
antonymcphillips ?Nov, 2011 AltLd
SamStokes 28 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
with emilyj
with emilyj
Liz Wakelin 26 Oct, 2011 AltLd
with Rich Mayfield
with Rich Mayfield
scoth 23 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S Crux felt more like a 6a especially as it was damp
Crux felt more like a 6a especially as it was damp
Pete_Hamlin 17 Oct, 2011 2nd β
AmandaJG 17 Oct, 2011 2nd 6 pitches - climbed with Jon
6 pitches - climbed with Jon
skiswan 17 Oct, 2011 2nd
katherinesydney 12 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S 3 pitches of rock-avalanching, ant-infested, polished choss followed by 4 really good pitches. andrew got the luxury of the ridge belay to make up for having to lead the polished chimney (really the only bit deserving of F5+; the rest is about F4+). the descent takes ages along the highly polished uneven rock slide of a tourist route; beach and ice cream at the bottom though. Climbed with Mark & Anna on the other rope.
3 pitches of rock-avalanching, ant-infested, polished choss followed by 4 really good pitches. andrew got the luxury of the ridge belay to make up for having to lead the polished chimney (really the only bit deserving of F5+; the rest is about F4+). the descent takes ages along the highly polished uneven rock slide of a tourist route; beach and ice cream at the bottom though. Climbed with Mark & Anna on the other rope.
AndyFunnell 12 Oct, 2011 AltLd
Marq 12 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Tried Piratas but backed off 4th pitch as nasty and continued up VV
with Anna N
Tried Piratas but backed off 4th pitch as nasty and continued up VV
with Anna N
LukeyG ?Oct, 2011 AltLd
Rowan Mitchell 27 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S P1 Alan, P2 Me etc... P7 & P8 Alan
with Alan100
P1 Alan, P2 Me etc... P7 & P8 Alan
with Alan100
Hidden 18 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
JohnBear 7 Sep, 2011 AltLd
with Steve, Pete
with Steve, Pete
Hidden 5 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 11 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
hellboundblr 11 Apr, 2011 AltLd First climb with Ian. John & Sheldon went first. Me P1, P3, P5 & P7. Ian P2(of Direct de UBSA - due to nesting bird) P4, P6 & P8. Shit on three times by birds. Very slow, 8 hours car to car.
with Ian Wilkinson
First climb with Ian. John & Sheldon went first. Me P1, P3, P5 & P7. Ian P2(of Direct de UBSA - due to nesting bird) P4, P6 & P8. Shit on three times by birds. Very slow, 8 hours car to car.
with Ian Wilkinson
john_ni 11 Apr, 2011 AltLd Substituted the second pitch of Direct de USBA [5] and pitches 4 [f4] and 5 [f5] of Polvos Magicos. 2nd climbed with sac but hauled it on the slippery crux pitch3 and on pitch5. Bryan & Ian W climbed behind. Led pitch1 but mistakengly belayed at left belay intended for Direct de UBSA. Sheldon led P2 up slab of Direct de UBSA to avoid nests on Via path, slab was very thin leading/seconding [cheated & stood on peg/bolt]. Threw in an extra half pitch then to traverse/walk across & belay immediately below Via chimney, inserting gear to protect 2nds. Lots of loose stones there, glad we were only 4 on route. P3 crux was polished as stated by many & with no grip on slab have to haul up on the jammed chockstones. Sheldon led pitch4 of Polvos, loose in places then I led pitch 5 up the corner which has more jugs above than you'd suspect. Belayed 10m below ridge so could haul up sac after Sheldon. Sheldon led to ridge then I led the nice pitch up to belay bolts. Final 2 pitches are a scramble.
with chip
Substituted the second pitch of Direct de USBA [5] and pitches 4 [f4] and 5 [f5] of Polvos Magicos. 2nd climbed with sac but hauled it on the slippery crux pitch3 and on pitch5. Bryan & Ian W climbed behind. Led pitch1 but mistakengly belayed at left belay intended for Direct de UBSA. Sheldon led P2 up slab of Direct de UBSA to avoid nests on Via path, slab was very thin leading/seconding [cheated & stood on peg/bolt]. Threw in an extra half pitch then to traverse/walk across & belay immediately below Via chimney, inserting gear to protect 2nds. Lots of loose stones there, glad we were only 4 on route. P3 crux was polished as stated by many & with no grip on slab have to haul up on the jammed chockstones. Sheldon led pitch4 of Polvos, loose in places then I led pitch 5 up the corner which has more jugs above than you'd suspect. Belayed 10m below ridge so could haul up sac after Sheldon. Sheldon led to ridge then I led the nice pitch up to belay bolts. Final 2 pitches are a scramble.
with chip
Mick Riley 28 Mar, 2011 -
Hidden 23 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
beckybray1 16 Mar, 2011 2nd
rgd1977 16 Mar, 2011 Lead Did pitch two of Polvos magicos(6a+) by accident oops, it was a good pitch but I was a bit out of my depth with a rucksack on! I know everyone mentions the polished crack on pitch 3 but it really is bad, slipperiest thing I've ever climbed, I'm sure it was easier and more fun years ago but spoils the route a bit now really. Many thanks go out to a German couple we met who give me a drink of beer as I topped out, tasted fantastic and just what I needed!
Did pitch two of Polvos magicos(6a+) by accident oops, it was a good pitch but I was a bit out of my depth with a rucksack on! I know everyone mentions the polished crack on pitch 3 but it really is bad, slipperiest thing I've ever climbed, I'm sure it was easier and more fun years ago but spoils the route a bit now really. Many thanks go out to a German couple we met who give me a drink of beer as I topped out, tasted fantastic and just what I needed!
Hidden 26 Feb, 2011 2nd
Hidden 23 Feb, 2011 2nd β
Hidden 23 Feb, 2011 2nd β
tmawer 13 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
with John
with John
bigrob 2 Feb, 2011 AltLd caz 4 me rest! 3.5hrs
with caz neely
caz 4 me rest! 3.5hrs
with caz neely
twm 14 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with George
with George
the shoe shed 2 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with btc
with btc
btc 2 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Bob Workman
with Bob Workman
Hidden ?Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
RossT ??, 2011 AltLd
with Guy R
with Guy R
Jules 210681 25 Dec, 2010 2nd
with Zoomer
with Zoomer
Zoomer 25 Dec, 2010 Lead Xmas Day route, blazing sunshine. Bit of polish about (the crux, ha ha) but also enjoy the exposed move up on the 6th(?) pitch before the scrambling starts. Best Xmas ever!
Xmas Day route, blazing sunshine. Bit of polish about (the crux, ha ha) but also enjoy the exposed move up on the 6th(?) pitch before the scrambling starts. Best Xmas ever!
jw231 15 Dec, 2010 2nd O/S
Martin Bennett 11 Dec, 2010 -
with Ali
with Ali
timcedwards 18 Nov, 2010 2nd Bottom 2 pitches poor. Pitch 3 VERY polished. Pitches 4 & 5 excellent.
with Andrew Edwards
Bottom 2 pitches poor. Pitch 3 VERY polished. Pitches 4 & 5 excellent.
with Andrew Edwards
bigdan050 12 Nov, 2010 AltLd trad leads 2/4/6
with steve H, steve R
trad leads 2/4/6
with steve H, steve R
stvredmond 11 Nov, 2010 AltLd
with Dan
with Dan
Hidden 8 Nov, 2010 AltLd
Fiona Reid 8 Nov, 2010 AltLd Led the odd pitches. Pitch 3 is a polished horror. No idea how I got up this but I never wish to encounter rock like that again. The rest of the climb is lovely and you end up in a stunning position on the ridge.
Led the odd pitches. Pitch 3 is a polished horror. No idea how I got up this but I never wish to encounter rock like that again. The rest of the climb is lovely and you end up in a stunning position on the ridge.
JimBee ?Nov, 2010 AltLd dog P1 J. (Did P2 of Direct de UBSA - mistake! very hard and polished) P3 J. P4 M, P5 J (dog). P6 M. P7,8 J simul climbing. Lots of fixed gear take a very light rack only. Extremely tired after taking too much gear and starting around 1pm in winter sun. Steep climb up rubbishy ground got us off to a bad start, still have fun and made the top (and pub) before sunset.
with Matt Ellis
P1 J. (Did P2 of Direct de UBSA - mistake! very hard and polished) P3 J. P4 M, P5 J (dog). P6 M. P7,8 J simul climbing. Lots of fixed gear take a very light rack only. Extremely tired after taking too much gear and starting around 1pm in winter sun. Steep climb up rubbishy ground got us off to a bad start, still have fun and made the top (and pub) before sunset.
with Matt Ellis
pamvdb17 21 Oct, 2010 -
Graham Pearson 21 Oct, 2010 2nd dog
with Pam van de Brug
with Pam van de Brug
melville18 22 Sep, 2010 AltLd rpt thankfully someone was kind enough to place a bolt as a foothold on the slippery chimney of death (would have been rude not to use it)
with claire melville
thankfully someone was kind enough to place a bolt as a foothold on the slippery chimney of death (would have been rude not to use it)
with claire melville
jacobfinn 22 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1, 3 (slippery chimney of death, 5, 6 (sting in the tail) and 8
with jjax
Lead pitches 1, 3 (slippery chimney of death, 5, 6 (sting in the tail) and 8
with jjax
jjax 22 Sep, 2010 Lead led pitches 2, 4 and 7. got horrendously stuck at she slippery chimney on pitch 3 as no chalk on a swelteringly hot day. sweaty palms and polished limestone dont mix. Got sunburned as took us a lot longer than we accounted for.
led pitches 2, 4 and 7. got horrendously stuck at she slippery chimney on pitch 3 as no chalk on a swelteringly hot day. sweaty palms and polished limestone dont mix. Got sunburned as took us a lot longer than we accounted for.
gpcomps 9 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf First three pitches climbed successfully. Went off route on the fourth pitch and had to retreat
First three pitches climbed successfully. Went off route on the fourth pitch and had to retreat
Hidden 28 May, 2010 2nd
31770 28 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Sam Crookshank, Fiona Bangs
with Sam Crookshank, Fiona Bangs
Shaw Brown 15 Apr, 2010 Lead Epic enchainment with a route on Toix using public transport and shank's pony.
with Earl Gray Larty
Epic enchainment with a route on Toix using public transport and shank's pony.
with Earl Gray Larty
chri55ie 12 Apr, 2010 AltLd Lead pitches 1, 3, 5, 6 and 8
with Niel Stevens
Lead pitches 1, 3, 5, 6 and 8
with Niel Stevens
Nigel Bond 12 Apr, 2010 AltLd
with Martin Coward, rogerskews
with Martin Coward, rogerskews
rogerskews 12 Apr, 2010 AltLd Crux very polished and no "tat" in situ. Becoming a polished horror!
with Martin Coward, Nigel Bond
Crux very polished and no "tat" in situ. Becoming a polished horror!
with Martin Coward, Nigel Bond
Hidden 12 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
lrandall 4 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Lead all pitches. One very short section of 5/5+ climbing, otherwise very easy going. Bolts are pretty spaced, but not really comparable to VS climbing in my opinion. Nice, relaxing climb, with some nice climbing in pleasent positions.
with Flo
Lead all pitches. One very short section of 5/5+ climbing, otherwise very easy going. Bolts are pretty spaced, but not really comparable to VS climbing in my opinion. Nice, relaxing climb, with some nice climbing in pleasent positions.
with Flo
Hidden 30 Mar, 2010 AltLd
Mike Dudley 26 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S 6p. Semi-trad. Very polished in parts, especially the shiny corner.
with Lads from 23 Engr Regt
6p. Semi-trad. Very polished in parts, especially the shiny corner.
with Lads from 23 Engr Regt
WRMusall 17 Mar, 2010 AltLd dnf Had to be recued from the ledge below the 6th pitch.
with Stephenie, Derick
Had to be recued from the ledge below the 6th pitch.
with Stephenie, Derick
Will Gordon ?Mar, 2010 Lead rpt
with John Abbot
with John Abbot
Will Gordon ?Mar, 2010 Lead rpt
with Jose
with Jose
toby2000 ?Mar, 2010 -
Hidden ?Mar, 2010 2nd
steve2006 1 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S beautifull sunny day in shorts and teashirt great start to year.
with Ann Blandford
beautifull sunny day in shorts and teashirt great start to year.
with Ann Blandford
Elsier 1 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead all except crux pitch, which was very polished. The route was quite vegitated and loose in places, but overall a great day out.
with Mary, Stuart
Lead all except crux pitch, which was very polished. The route was quite vegitated and loose in places, but overall a great day out.
with Mary, Stuart
John Roe 14 Nov, 2009 AltLd Justin led pitch 1 & 4, Chips led 5 and I led pitch 2 of "Direct de UBSA" and pitches 3 & 5 of Valencianos
with Justin (Ratty) Burgoyne, Paul (Chips) Rafferty
Justin led pitch 1 & 4, Chips led 5 and I led pitch 2 of "Direct de UBSA" and pitches 3 & 5 of Valencianos
with Justin (Ratty) Burgoyne, Paul (Chips) Rafferty
dani.harris 11 Nov, 2009 2nd
whiting.jp 5 Nov, 2009 AltLd
with jamesca
with jamesca
Hidden 5 Nov, 2009 AltLd
GScot38 ?Nov, 2009 Lead 2 seconds.
2 seconds.
Malpractise ?Nov, 2009 -
richardhopton 21 Oct, 2009 AltLd Obviously a great route but could it not take a varient on the crux to avoid the polish and go up the left crack instead of the right?
Obviously a great route but could it not take a varient on the crux to avoid the polish and go up the left crack instead of the right?
steveadkinson 8 May, 2009 AltLd O/S Alt leads with Si, I led even pitches. Top of pitch 5 over the ridge to Calpe the most memorable climd so far! The walk along the ridge to start pitch 6 almost as memorable.
with Si & Simmo
Alt leads with Si, I led even pitches. Top of pitch 5 over the ridge to Calpe the most memorable climd so far! The walk along the ridge to start pitch 6 almost as memorable.
with Si & Simmo
Mark Fairhurst 2 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
jacoob81 ?May, 2009 AltLd O/S
matty123 9 Apr, 2009 AltLd rpt
with Tom Breakell
with Tom Breakell
craig h 9 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S Not the classic route I was expecting, the first 3 pitches are very exposed to any rockfall from seagulls or anyone above you, lots of rocks/stones on all the ledges for a rope to dislodge. Added a short pitch - wander between pitch 2&3 as the slope was full of rocks and had climbers below. Pitch 3 was very much out of place, bit of a polished grunt (my holiday bug did kick in on this pitch though). We finished up Polvos Mágicos after this, and the following 2 pitches are fantastic, and my wife prefered them to following Vía Valencianos (she's done it before). For me they were some of the best multi-pitches I've done in the Costa Blanca, and would balance the 3rd pitch out to give a good VS.
with Janet Hannah
Not the classic route I was expecting, the first 3 pitches are very exposed to any rockfall from seagulls or anyone above you, lots of rocks/stones on all the ledges for a rope to dislodge. Added a short pitch - wander between pitch 2&3 as the slope was full of rocks and had climbers below. Pitch 3 was very much out of place, bit of a polished grunt (my holiday bug did kick in on this pitch though). We finished up Polvos Mágicos after this, and the following 2 pitches are fantastic, and my wife prefered them to following Vía Valencianos (she's done it before). For me they were some of the best multi-pitches I've done in the Costa Blanca, and would balance the 3rd pitch out to give a good VS.
with Janet Hannah
RobSteere ?Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Jason
with Jason
tompercy ?Apr, 2009 Lead
with Kat Pratschke
with Kat Pratschke
Bob M 3 Feb, 2009 AltLd
with riggy
with riggy
barrington1978 ?Feb, 2009 -
ldadams ?Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
with Tor Pitts
with Tor Pitts
GaryK 3 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S Horribly polished crux.
Horribly polished crux.
DavidR 2 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S 2 hours 33 minutes. Straight after doing Diedro UBSA in the morning. Pitch 1 - Dave; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Dave; Pitch 8 - Dave.
2 hours 33 minutes. Straight after doing Diedro UBSA in the morning. Pitch 1 - Dave; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Dave; Pitch 8 - Dave.
Hidden 2 Jan, 2009 AltLd rpt
sdht ??, 2009 -
chris.mac ??, 2009 -
with gordon
with gordon
Si ??, 2009 AltLd
with Sal O
with Sal O
eldre070 25 Nov, 2008 Lead dnf Abbed off after crux pitch as one of the students was struggling, alot!
with 2 students
Abbed off after crux pitch as one of the students was struggling, alot!
with 2 students
Tenko 24 Nov, 2008 AltLd
Tenko 24 Nov, 2008 AltLd The classic of the crag, mega 45m slab pitch. Crux is real pollished at 5+, rest of climb pure luxury.
with Wayne Elliott
The classic of the crag, mega 45m slab pitch. Crux is real pollished at 5+, rest of climb pure luxury.
with Wayne Elliott
climbingxcat ?Nov, 2008 AltLd
with Brian
with Brian
tomcoomber 13 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with Dan Swift
with Dan Swift
mr.alex ?Oct, 2008 2nd Large!
Large!
melville18 ?Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with claire melville
with claire melville
Ken Taylor 26 Apr, 2008 AltLd
with Andy Chadwick
with Andy Chadwick
Conan 26 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S Start was pants. Slab was great despite being dive bombed by the locals!
with Lindsay
Start was pants. Slab was great despite being dive bombed by the locals!
with Lindsay
Rob Hirst 5 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Mark Ross
with Mark Ross
RichardMc 30 Mar, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 22 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
Will Gordon ?Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Steve Baker
with Steve Baker
Will Gordon ?Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Steve Baker, Novice
with Steve Baker, Novice
Johnny B Diggerman 8 Feb, 2008 2nd O/S 8 pitch climb 35m, 36m, 30m, 20m, 44m, 30m, 20m 30m. Start is a bit of an overgrown scramble. Mid section has a difficult crux followed by impressive slabs. Great climb and a great day out. Easy walk off. A 'must do' climb.
with Paul G
8 pitch climb 35m, 36m, 30m, 20m, 44m, 30m, 20m 30m. Start is a bit of an overgrown scramble. Mid section has a difficult crux followed by impressive slabs. Great climb and a great day out. Easy walk off. A 'must do' climb.
with Paul G
Hidden 29 Jan, 2008 Lead O/S
Peter Metcalfe 28 Jan, 2008 AltLd A lovely day out. We did the direct variation up the thin but well-protected slab above P1 which involved some falling off and swearing, not necessarily in that order. 5+? 6a+ more like. Got off the Hill in time for beers at the Spanish / Brit bar by the marina. Here tapas = Walkers Salt and Vinegar crisps... lovely.
with Jenn Burt
A lovely day out. We did the direct variation up the thin but well-protected slab above P1 which involved some falling off and swearing, not necessarily in that order. 5+? 6a+ more like. Got off the Hill in time for beers at the Spanish / Brit bar by the marina. Here tapas = Walkers Salt and Vinegar crisps... lovely.
with Jenn Burt
net 25 Jan, 2008 AltLd Shaw lead most of it!
Shaw lead most of it!
Shaw Brown 25 Jan, 2008 AltLd
with net
with net
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Phil PBC ??, 2008 -
lyneux 25 Nov, 2007 AltLd O/S I lead even-numbered pitches
with Chris Glasson
I lead even-numbered pitches
with Chris Glasson
haydng 18 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
with RMG
with RMG
ioboy 7 Nov, 2007 AltLd
with Dave
with Dave
Jon Pilling ?Jun, 2007 Lead β
with Giles Penn
with Giles Penn
kitkat78 31 May, 2007 AltLd
with Sarah C
with Sarah C
Hidden 2 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?May, 2007 Lead O/S
hamish2016 ?Apr, 2007 Lead dnf I lead P1, Ross lead P2, then it started raining and Ross dropped his belay device down the face so we decided to retreat. We abseiled back down (lovely abseil down slab!) in the rain and got bombarded by angry seagulls. A fun morning!
with Ross Overhead
I lead P1, Ross lead P2, then it started raining and Ross dropped his belay device down the face so we decided to retreat. We abseiled back down (lovely abseil down slab!) in the rain and got bombarded by angry seagulls. A fun morning!
with Ross Overhead
roverhead ?Apr, 2007 2nd dnf
Chesh 5 Mar, 2007 AltLd and Graham Meigh. Climbed pitch 2 of Polvos magicos at 6a+.
with Phil B
and Graham Meigh. Climbed pitch 2 of Polvos magicos at 6a+.
with Phil B
Hidden ?Mar, 2007 Solo
steve mee 24 Feb, 2007 AltLd
with Mike Frith
with Mike Frith
Weedyskid ?Feb, 2007 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S
SteveM 2 Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Corky
with Corky
Hidden ?Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S
auld al ?Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Dec, 2006 AltLd O/S
BruceW 28 Dec, 2006 AltLd O/S What a horrible shiney crux pitch. Slab and view over ridge great!
with bectodd
What a horrible shiney crux pitch. Slab and view over ridge great!
with bectodd
jl 16 Dec, 2006 Lead O/S
with pennyb
with pennyb
pennyb 16 Dec, 2006 2nd O/S
with jl
with jl
John HW ?Dec, 2006 Lead O/S Instructing on Tarquin's Exped 2 x students
with 2 x Students
Instructing on Tarquin's Exped 2 x students
with 2 x Students
featuresforfeet 26 Nov, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Angel
with Angel
Sylvi 16 Nov, 2006 AltLd
rilem 1 Nov, 2006 -
The Bad Cough 29 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
with John Nesbitt
with John Nesbitt
andy mcc ?Sep, 2006 Lead
with Arifa Chakera, Jason King & Kirsty Hogg
with Arifa Chakera, Jason King & Kirsty Hogg
DerwentDiluted 7 Aug, 2006 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
with Nicola Pettit
timstyles 11 May, 2006 AltLd O/S Huw P1,3,5,7+8; Tim P2,4,6
with Huw Howells
Huw P1,3,5,7+8; Tim P2,4,6
with Huw Howells
Hidden 14 Apr, 2006 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2006 -
antroy 23 Mar, 2006 AltLd
Allan Young 20 Mar, 2006 AltLd dog
with Liz Kay
with Liz Kay
Hidden 11 Mar, 2006 2nd
9fingerjon ?Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S Various types of wildlife encountered
with Rich H
Various types of wildlife encountered
with Rich H
WRMusall 18 Jan, 2006 AltLd
with Chris R and Gary
with Chris R and Gary
Hidden ?Jan, 2006 2nd β
mikelaing ??, 2006 -
dfbpdave ??, 2006 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2006 -
steve mee 8 Dec, 2005 AltLd
with mrsmish
with mrsmish
Adrian Daniels 30 Sep, 2005 AltLd
Steve Webster 30 Sep, 2005 AltLd
A Downing ?Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
with Ben Monkton
with Ben Monkton
Hidden 20 May, 2005 AltLd
Peter Metcalfe 25 Apr, 2005 AltLd Would get HS 4+ if not for the horrendously polished crack. Homicidal gulls can make life interesting.
with David Hudson
Would get HS 4+ if not for the horrendously polished crack. Homicidal gulls can make life interesting.
with David Hudson
Stuart Macfarlane 11 Apr, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Dave M, el diablo
with Dave M, el diablo
el diablo 11 Apr, 2005 AltLd
with Dave M, Stuart Macfarlane
with Dave M, Stuart Macfarlane
Hidden 2 Mar, 2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2005 AltLd
matty123 13 Feb, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Fred Salt
with Fred Salt
Hidden 10 Feb, 2005 AltLd O/S
steveboote ?Feb, 2005 AltLd Snake on ledge
with Vic Belshaw
Snake on ledge
with Vic Belshaw
WRMusall 16 Jan, 2005 2nd
mjeffery ?Jan, 2005 AltLd O/S In the snow!
In the snow!
Hidden ??, 2005 -
tapley 26 Nov, 2004 Lead
with Alison Tapley
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 24 Oct, 2004 Lead
Celia Watson 24 Oct, 2004 2nd
Phil West 16 Sep, 2004 AltLd O/S I led 1st, 3rd, 5th & 7th(Scramble) pitches.
with Shaun Walby
I led 1st, 3rd, 5th & 7th(Scramble) pitches.
with Shaun Walby
shaun walby 16 Sep, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Phil West
with Phil West
Katex ?Jun, 2004 AltLd dnf Chased off by ferocious seagulls. The excellent sushi restaurant nearby made up for it though.
with Simon Edwards
Chased off by ferocious seagulls. The excellent sushi restaurant nearby made up for it though.
with Simon Edwards
Jason Gotel ?May, 2004 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
with Pippa Lansdown
Hidden ??, 2004 -
Ken lindsay ??, 2004 AltLd O/S
HansStuttgart ??, 2004 -
TimPerkin 28 Nov, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Mark Perkin
with Mark Perkin
hayleylouise 16 Sep, 2003 2nd
with Holly Adamthwaite
with Holly Adamthwaite
Hidden ?Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
gjd 1 Jun, 2003 AltLd
with emily
with emily
andyb211 8 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
with Clients
with Clients
dave o ?Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
with JuliaH
with JuliaH
Hidden 28 Feb, 2003 AltLd
Matt Rowat 28 Feb, 2003 AltLd O/S Awesome day out- may have gone slightly off route once or twice. A mini adventure!
with Owen
Awesome day out- may have gone slightly off route once or twice. A mini adventure!
with Owen
Goody 24 Feb, 2003 2nd O/S
with Jon Edwards, Jim Dewhurst
with Jon Edwards, Jim Dewhurst
Ander 26 Jan, 2003 AltLd
with Kev
with Kev
Tarquin ??, 2003 -
Hidden ??, 2003 2nd O/S
dan gibson ?Dec, 2002 Lead O/S
with karing
with karing
Allan Young 30 Oct, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Robinson
with Andrew Robinson
MikeC59 22 May, 2002 2nd
chrishedgehog 30 Apr, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Joe Thompson
with Joe Thompson
Rob Davies 17 Apr, 2002 AltLd Crux is like a polished VS in Derbyshire. Nice exposed slab above.
with David Kinniburgh, Charles Kinniburgh
Crux is like a polished VS in Derbyshire. Nice exposed slab above.
with David Kinniburgh, Charles Kinniburgh
Hidden 12 Apr, 2002 AltLd O/S
Howard J 28 Feb, 2002 Lead rpt
with Steve Astley
with Steve Astley
WRMusall 17 Feb, 2002 AltLd dnf Climbed first 3 pitches, got lost on 4th pitch
Climbed first 3 pitches, got lost on 4th pitch
Mark Stevenson 2 Dec, 2001 Lead rpt
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 9 Apr, 2001 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca
with Rebecca
Hidden 13 Mar, 2001 Lead O/S
chris skipton 12 Feb, 2001 AltLd rpt A good day with a good partner, but hit by migraine near the top.
A good day with a good partner, but hit by migraine near the top.
John Brayshaw 12 Feb, 2001 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell ??, 2001 AltLd rpt Aided the shiny crux pitch
with Carmen and Mike
Aided the shiny crux pitch
with Carmen and Mike
Howard J 2 Mar, 2000 AltLd dog We pulled on the gear in the sweaty crack (who doesn't?)
with Julie Wassell
We pulled on the gear in the sweaty crack (who doesn't?)
with Julie Wassell
Simon Caldwell 31 Jan, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Ian A and Mike
with Ian A and Mike
EllieWoods 20 Dec, 1999 AltLd O/S
with Kath Rosedale
with Kath Rosedale
Mark Stevenson 16 Dec, 1999 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Nov, 1999 AltLd O/S
chris skipton 22 Oct, 1999 AltLd O/S A great expedition. Get an early start to reduce risk of stonefall from parties above. Led most of the pitches.
with CF, Hemo
A great expedition. Get an early start to reduce risk of stonefall from parties above. Led most of the pitches.
with CF, Hemo
Nigel R Lewis 23 Mar, 1999 AltLd
with Pete Bennett
with Pete Bennett
Howard J 24 Feb, 1999 2nd
with Paul Barker
with Paul Barker
cpoad 16 Feb, 1999 Lead O/S
with Jo Macnab
with Jo Macnab
tjekel ??, 1999 -
Hidden ??, 1999 Lead
Tarquin ??, 1999 -
Richard Alderton 20 Dec, 1998 AltLd dnf Failed on the crux pitch 3. Retreated to Calpe for beer.
with Travis
Failed on the crux pitch 3. Retreated to Calpe for beer.
with Travis
Hidden 11 Nov, 1998 AltLd
redpointillist ?Nov, 1998 AltLd
with Andrew
with Andrew
nige pacer ?Apr, 1998 AltLd O/S
dickypips ?Feb, 1998 AltLd
with john richards
with john richards
apollo18 ??, 1998 AltLd O/S
with The Youth
with The Youth
chris sm ?Dec, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Nick Wheeler
with Nick Wheeler
steve prior ?Jan, 1997 Lead
with Roz C
with Roz C
uphillnow ??, 1997 AltLd
Tarquin ??, 1997 -
PeteCheung ?Apr, 1996 AltLd
with Pete Butler and Sue
with Pete Butler and Sue
brianrunner 15 Mar, 1996 AltLd fun route
with steve wells, martina
fun route
with steve wells, martina
Nick Biven 25 Dec, 1995 -
Mick r 8 Dec, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Jim Kirkwood
with Jim Kirkwood
EddieA ?Nov, 1995 AltLd O/S I got the polished crack pitch
with Simon W
I got the polished crack pitch
with Simon W
Neil Conway 26 Sep, 1995 2nd O/S
with Steve Hardy
with Steve Hardy
Hidden ?Feb, 1995 AltLd
Yourlead ?Oct, 1994 Lead
with Ric Gregory
with Ric Gregory
ATAE 14 Apr, 1994 AltLd Went up the corner of Polvos Magicos on pitch 2 to avoid huge gull nesting on the traverse. It may have changed since but at that time there were bolts for belays on the stances but very few bolt runners in between so some very big run outs as we only had a few rocks not a full rack.
with James
Went up the corner of Polvos Magicos on pitch 2 to avoid huge gull nesting on the traverse. It may have changed since but at that time there were bolts for belays on the stances but very few bolt runners in between so some very big run outs as we only had a few rocks not a full rack.
with James
Scott McRae ?Apr, 1994 AltLd O/S Steve led slab pitch of UBSA direct. Long hot day, but great positions.
with Steve Lucas
Steve led slab pitch of UBSA direct. Long hot day, but great positions.
with Steve Lucas
Hidden 30 Nov, 1993 AltLd O/S
freeheel47 ??, 1993 AltLd
lithos ?Mar, 1992 AltLd
Chris Ellis 15 Dec, 1991 AltLd
with Ernie Horrocks, Andy Barker
with Ernie Horrocks, Andy Barker
Hidden ?May, 1988 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 -
40 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set