198m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent route which is of the same calibre as Costa Blanca, or even better, some say. It follows a very steep and direct line up the centre of the face to reach a fine position high on the wall. A wire or two may be needed for the section shared with Diedro UBSA which also contains some loose rock.
1) & 2) 4+, 45m. As for Diedro UBSA.
3) 5+, 15m. Continue up the corner, but step right and climb up as far as a sloping ledge. Belay at the right-hand end of this.
4) 6b, 28m. Climb straight up the vertical rubble on some weird and wonderful holds (scary) and then smoother rock above.
5) 6b, 30m. Another long pitch leads left, then back right and up an area of flowstone. Juggy climbing reaches a crack which leads to a belay shared with Gómez-Cano.
6) 6c, 20m. Up a short, steep Arete or the groove to the left.
7) 6a, 30m. Move left awkwardly, then climb the groove and crack on the left to a good stance (strenuous).
8) 7a, 30m. Climb the overhanging face above via the crack on the right with one hard move (or aid). Continue on steep rock via a crack then swing left to a niche. Exit right then climb a groove and slab. Scramble up easy rock to the summit. © Rockfax

FA. Salvador Guerola, Emilio Perales, Juan Terradez, Jaime Arviza 1991

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50.

mattb42 20/Nov AltLd

Did it in 4 pitches

YamCam 20/Nov AltLd

Fantastic route. Pitches 1-3 are OK, but 4 onwards are all ace. Pitch 8 felt hard for 7a - the "hard move" is a cool, quite bouldery sequence, that's probably harder now it's a bit polished. It's well protected and could be aided if necessary. The whole pitch is tough though, and doesn't relent till you're on the scramble to the summit. There's a hardish move on 6, too, helped out by a heel hook. Can be done in 4 with an 80m rope (1-3,4-5,6-7,8), studious clip skipping and monumental rope drag...

with mattb42
cjbaker 05/Apr Lead RP

Thought we were doing Costa Blanca till we got near the top!! Last pitch was insanely good (most of the others were too!). Got bombarded by the sea gulls at the top, a minefield of nests. Beware.

Teappleby 17/Feb AltLd O/S

Led 3,4 ,6 and 7. Mega route. Some good exposure on the final pitch!

Dangerous Dave 12/Feb AltLd O/S

Excellent, prob better than Costa Blanca. Led the the trickier pitches.

with Dave O
Luuuuuke 24/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
AlexRenshaw 07/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
with Tim Raffle
sopaz 24/Nov/16 AltLd

Epic. Lead P2,3,5,7. Many hours and lots of pulling on gear...

with Mackie
admackie 24/Nov/16 AltLd

wow was amazing, took a real ass kicking on the last pitch

KKilroy 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Very good. The arete pitch is the best one with all the others being very good as well. Costa blanca I think is more memorable though.

with claire
robertmichaellovell 02/Nov/16 AltLd

every pitch a winner. rubble pitch was brilliant, top pitch was something else!

with Doug Sharpe
Dan724 11/May/16 AltLd O/S

Epic in every way, the exposure, the moves, the view, the polish. Swung leads with Lauren. I did the 6c and 7a pitch and a couple of the other ones.

with Lauren Holliman
sd2k 22/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Incredible climb, every pitch was great!

with Eddo
mrteale 22/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Incredible line, not a bad pitch on it. Lead pitches 2, 4, 6, 8. Crux pitch was steady after the sharp pull but in an exciting position. A Must do!

with sd2k
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 16/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

So good! Great climbing with excellent belay ledges. The last pitch had a really hard move, as Roisin said when she topped out, 'I'm ready to die'. Took about 6 hours.

with Roisin
LeeWood 31/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Great diversity and incredible interest with amazing scenery. Perfect conditions, no-one else competing for space at the stance. A vivid and memorable highlight to finish 2013. L5 is 6b+. Did not onsight 6c pitch; topo could be more helpful in saying: climb the arête, but using also the corner at LHS as necessary.

quiffhanger 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Strung first 2 pitches together, then lead the first 6b on crazy holds, the awesome 6c arete and 7a crux. Luckily Kate got the sandbag scary 6a pitch :) ~4hours in total.

with Kate
Hidden 17/Jan/13 AltLd dog
Hidden 17/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
HansStuttgart ??/2013 -

Also nice! Messed up the last pitch and ended up on very sharp steep rock, luckily seconding

nige 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

The F6c pitch (3rd from the top) is a bit scary and the bolts have seen better days.

with mark hounslea
Hidden 04/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
elCapitano 20/Dec/11 AltLd

Led pitches 3,5,7 onsight. Flashed pitch 6 at 6c up the desperate technical groove. Aided pitch 8 at 7a and clipped a rest on the bolts. Even better than Costa Blanca, a phenomenal route.

with Patch
richardashe 28/Mar/11 2nd dog

Great multi pitch climb! Though half way up, in the baking sun, feet hurting and with a 50m instead of 60m rope I wasn't exactly that enthusiastic about it! Did it in a three. Took 8 hours on the route and three getting down in the dark.

Graham Westbrook ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Last pitch felt really hard going, even after the niche! Fantastic route. 6 hours!

JBO ?/Feb/11 AltLd dog
Hidden ??/2010 -
mr mills 17/Dec/09 AltLd dog

great route, aided the first bit on the last pitch.

with alun hughes
Dave Reeve 02/Feb/09 AltLd
with Steve Hordley
Hidden 02/Jan/09 AltLd rpt
dan gibson 02/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
Hidden 02/Jan/08 AltLd
DavidR 02/Jan/08 AltLd dog

Fell once seconding F6c pitch. Aided crux on F7a pitch, as well as one rest!

Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd
Bella 22/Dec/05 AltLd O/S
with Chris
Hidden 12/Dec/05 Lead O/S
sadams 28/Feb/04 AltLd O/S
with Kathryn & Nic
Russell Birkett ?/Apr/03 AltLd O/S

Led crux pitch. Then we drank all the beer in the villa before the others got back.

with Sandy Richie
jamiev 19/Jan/02 AltLd O/S
with Adrian Berry
sharpie ?/Feb/01 Lead O/S
with PL
skygodley 19/Feb/99 AltLd
with Silvia Fitzpatrick
Hidden 25/Dec/97 AltLd O/S
jon 27/Dec/96 Lead
with H
Hidden 25/Jan/95 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/93 AltLd
12 users have this on their wishlist
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set