Rockfax Description
A fiercely-technical and powerful route with hard and bold climbing protected by small gear (micro-wires handy). Start right of the right arete of Brant Direct and make thin bouldery moves to a small ledge at 3m. Move up the pillar to eventually get to a good wire. Summon up all your power and make a long reach up and right to a reasonable hold. Continue up quickly, passing a slot (small cam useful) to reach an easing at 15m before your arms give out. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 2017 Target Climbs For Me.

td72 28/May -

pumpy but great route. meant to go back the next day for the lead but it rained. definately one to come back for. enough gear to make it safe and the climbing is lovely and flowy

Hidden ??/2017 -
jonleighton 02/Oct/16 Lead dnf

Thought I was in there when I made the reach up right, but no, turns out the next move is hard!

Gus 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
dan gibson 10/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Really happy to onsight this great route.

with Katerina petkova
anguskille 23/May/16 Lead β

Sweet. Down-climbed a couple of times after placing gear on the lead and it felt alright after that, bit of a run-out and still slightly pumped. Had a bit of tactic beta from Ed and knew the 'roquefort' joke so I'm taking the flash.

Ed Booth 23/May/16 2nd rpt

Thought getting gear out would be a ballache but luckily the wires all came out easily, so didn't have to hang around too long.

GraMc 08/May/16 Lead dnf

providing hungover stag entertainment! three or so whippers from the crux - think I could have got it but the last fall came pretty close to the ground so decided to be sensible!

with stag lads
UncleMephisto 03/May/16 TR dnf
with Sam Farnsworth, Rob Partridge
robpartridge 03/May/16 TR dog
Mike Goldthorp 10/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Thinking back to the style in which I did this 6 years ago (scraping my way up it sprint-style) made for a nice marker of progression, to see how I've changed as a climber - a more patient approach, more calculated and much fitter - felt relaxed and enjoying the moves, good place to be.

with Will
Hidden ??/2016 -
Nifec14 ??/2016 -
Hidden 01/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 10/Sep/15 Lead G/U

Nearly flashed it but slipped off! Had all the gear in situ when I did it.

with KM
Tom Livingstone 18/Aug/15 Lead G/U

3rd go?

with Lou Titchfield
sev 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/15 Lead dnf
brianhall16 13/May/15 Lead O/S
with Helen Wallace
Hidden 19/Sep/14 Lead β
nathanlee 30/Jun/14 Lead

Ground up 2nd go on a mixture of jack and wills gear. No friction! Nails!

with Will Sim, Jack Lawledge
fennerz 11/Apr/14 2nd β
with Ed and Adam
Ed Booth 11/Apr/14 Lead RP

G.u 3rd go today. Had fallen a few years back and then it had rained.

Hidden ??/2014 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2014 Lead G/U
with Oli Grounsell
Hidden 19/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Dave Turnbull, BMC 16/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Stuart McAleese
Glyn 27/Jul/12 Lead RP

Onsight attempt, three falls then got it ground up with Will's beta for the crux and wIth gear In place. Awesome moves.

with Will Oates
willoates 26/Jul/12 Lead β

Wasn't going to get on this for ages but did after Glyn fell off so did it on his gear up to the top of the pillars. thought the description was a bit off. getting wrong handed on the pillars was a bit of a mistake, but will definitely do it again next time i go to the Grochan.

with Glyn
Hannes B 20/Jun/12 2nd dog
with Luke
Luke Brooks 20/Jun/12 Lead β

Took the lob from the crux, awesome! Then abbed down it to have a quick look at the holds. Did it next go, so easy when you know what you're doing.

with Hannes
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 14/Aug/11 TR RP
Toby Dunn 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S

A brilliant sequence, with substantial gear. Intense, but not particularly hard.

with Andy Cave
AdrianP 02/Jul/11 Lead dog

one rest, ground up... until next time

with Olli
Pippa 29/Apr/11 2nd
with Jon
Ally Smith 10/Apr/11 Lead dog
with Pete H
barni 29/Mar/11 Lead β

quick look at the gear

Liam FLeming 29/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Found it very easy

with barni
Ed Booth 20/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Few lobs onto the nut. Will be back. Conditions not ideal. Need to man up!

with Mikey G
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Rich Kirby 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Sustained-F7a+/b. Top tip...use a sport rope. Great sequence, very sport climb-y.

with Pete
eddy-on-the-rocks 02/Jun/10 Lead dnf

I got my feet above the 'the runner'. There is more gear than it looks like.

with Rich
Alex Mason 28/May/10 Lead β

Found it really hard and scary to get 'the bomber runners' in. Only felt E5 6a (bar move off the deck). Hung around for ages, being intimidated by the routes reputation. What an awesome pitch, proper moves. E5.7/f7a

with Laura Perry, Mikey G
Hidden 28/May/10 2nd dog
Sam W 02/May/10 2nd dog
with Sam Ring
Mike Goldthorp 12/Feb/10 Lead RP

4 star!! Ground up 3rd try, placing gear on lead. Feels really cool to be doing proper difficult moves on trad gear, maybe F7a/+?

with Ben Alsford
Cassidy 24/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant route.

with Neil Busby
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead rpt
IOAN D 05/May/08 Lead


with Mills
lx 28/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/01 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ched ??/1998 TR
Dave Musgrove Jnr ??/1997 Lead RP
with Jon Sykes
jfletcher 18/Aug/96 Lead dog

Fell off after making a few moves past the good nuts. A replay of an attempt a couple of years earlier!

with John Boyle, Steve Adams
sadams 23/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
Hidden ??/1994 Lead dnf
Paul Clarke ??/1993 2nd RP
with Tim White, Nick Dalzell
Mike Owen 14/May/92 Lead rpt
with Christian
Seymore Butt ??/1990 -
with Dave Barton
Nick Biven ??/1990 2nd
with Rich Whitwell
Chris Wright 28/May/89 Lead O/S
craig d ??/1989 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 27/Sep/87 2nd
with Murray Hamilton
Mike Owen 02/Sep/87 Lead rpt
with Mark Taylor (Fluff)
Hidden ?/May/87 2nd
keefe 13/Sep/86 -
Mike Owen 22/Jun/86 Lead rpt
with Mike Mortimer
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
mark mcgowan01 ??/1986 Lead
with John Baine
Mike Owen 07/Jul/85 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 31/Jul/83 Lead dnf
26 users have this on their wishlist
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 15
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set