Rockfax Description
A fiercely-technical and powerful route with hard and bold climbing protected by small gear (micro-wires handy). Start right of the right arete of Brant Direct and make thin bouldery moves to a small ledge at 3m. Move up the pillar to eventually get to a good wire. Summon up all your power and make a long reach up and right to a reasonable hold. Continue up quickly, passing a slot (small cam useful) to reach an easing at 15m before your arms give out. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 2017 Target Climbs For Me, Wales Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
ferdia 19 Jun Lead dnf
Hidden 25 May Lead RP
Wil Treasure 13 May Lead dog Worth a bash, not as ridiculous as I expected but greased off a hold that was still catching the sun.
with Lorne
Worth a bash, not as ridiculous as I expected but greased off a hold that was still catching the sun.
with Lorne
simondunf 4 May Lead dnf Best go made the move up & right past the current in situ wire - still a few hard moves. V cold day
with owen
Best go made the move up & right past the current in situ wire - still a few hard moves. V cold day
with owen
Alex Mason 28 Oct, 2018 TR rpt To retrieve anchors
with George Ullrich
To retrieve anchors
with George Ullrich
Hidden 8 Jun, 2018 2nd
Hidden 8 Jun, 2018 Lead G/U
markalmack 3 Jun, 2018 Lead G/U Seem to be falling past my belayer a lot this year....
Seem to be falling past my belayer a lot this year....
Duncan Campbell 3 Jun, 2018 Lead G/U Much easier in cooler connies! 2nd go today, 7th overall. Put all the gear in today bar the runner for the runout. Mega climbing on this, chuffed to get it done.
with markalmack, Big Steve
Much easier in cooler connies! 2nd go today, 7th overall. Put all the gear in today bar the runner for the runout. Mega climbing on this, chuffed to get it done.
with markalmack, Big Steve
Duncan Campbell 19 May, 2018 Lead dnf Ahh just ace! Had 5 goes my best being the third and fourth where I fell going for it above the cheese (subtle beta). Took some big lobs. And on my fourth effort was so close to the jugs! Not a good one to try in the full sun but just brilliant. I’ll be back for sure.
with Alex Haslehurst AKA big dawg, Katy Whittaker
Ahh just ace! Had 5 goes my best being the third and fourth where I fell going for it above the cheese (subtle beta). Took some big lobs. And on my fourth effort was so close to the jugs! Not a good one to try in the full sun but just brilliant. I’ll be back for sure.
with Alex Haslehurst AKA big dawg, Katy Whittaker
td72 28 May, 2017 Lead dnf pumpy but great route. meant to go back the next day for the lead but it rained. definately one to come back for. enough gear to make it safe and the climbing is lovely and flowy
with bryan61
pumpy but great route. meant to go back the next day for the lead but it rained. definately one to come back for. enough gear to make it safe and the climbing is lovely and flowy
with bryan61
Hidden ??, 2017 -
jonleighton 2 Oct, 2016 Lead dnf Thought I was in there when I made the reach up right, but no, turns out the next move is hard!
with Emily C
Thought I was in there when I made the reach up right, but no, turns out the next move is hard!
with Emily C
Gus 18 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
dan gibson 10 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Really happy to onsight this great route.
with Katerina petkova
Really happy to onsight this great route.
with Katerina petkova
anguskille 23 May, 2016 Lead β Sweet. Down-climbed a couple of times after placing gear on the lead and it felt alright after that, bit of a run-out and still slightly pumped. Had a bit of tactic beta from Ed and knew the 'roquefort' joke so I'm taking the flash.
Sweet. Down-climbed a couple of times after placing gear on the lead and it felt alright after that, bit of a run-out and still slightly pumped. Had a bit of tactic beta from Ed and knew the 'roquefort' joke so I'm taking the flash.
Ed Booth 23 May, 2016 2nd rpt Thought getting gear out would be a ballache but luckily the wires all came out easily, so didn't have to hang around too long.
Thought getting gear out would be a ballache but luckily the wires all came out easily, so didn't have to hang around too long.
GraMc 8 May, 2016 Lead dnf providing hungover stag entertainment! three or so whippers from the crux - think I could have got it but the last fall came pretty close to the ground so decided to be sensible!
with stag lads
providing hungover stag entertainment! three or so whippers from the crux - think I could have got it but the last fall came pretty close to the ground so decided to be sensible!
with stag lads
UncleMephisto 3 May, 2016 TR dnf
with Sam Farnsworth, robpartridge
with Sam Farnsworth, robpartridge
robpartridge 3 May, 2016 TR dog
Mike Goldthorp 10 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt Thinking back to the style in which I did this 6 years ago (scraping my way up it sprint-style) made for a nice marker of progression, to see how I've changed as a climber - a more patient approach, more calculated and much fitter - felt relaxed and enjoying the moves, good place to be.
with Will
Thinking back to the style in which I did this 6 years ago (scraping my way up it sprint-style) made for a nice marker of progression, to see how I've changed as a climber - a more patient approach, more calculated and much fitter - felt relaxed and enjoying the moves, good place to be.
with Will
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Cefin14 ??, 2016 -
Hidden 1 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 10 Sep, 2015 Lead G/U Nearly flashed it but slipped off! Had all the gear in situ when I did it.
with karin
Nearly flashed it but slipped off! Had all the gear in situ when I did it.
with karin
Tom Livingstone 18 Aug, 2015 Lead G/U 3rd go?
with Lou Titchfield
3rd go?
with Lou Titchfield
sev 15 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 23 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf
brianhall16 13 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Helen Wallace
with Helen Wallace
Hidden 19 Sep, 2014 Lead β
nathanlee 30 Jun, 2014 Lead Ground up 2nd go on a mixture of jack and wills gear. No friction! Nails!
with Will Sim, Jack Lawledge
Ground up 2nd go on a mixture of jack and wills gear. No friction! Nails!
with Will Sim, Jack Lawledge
fennerz 11 Apr, 2014 2nd β
with Ed and Adam
with Ed and Adam
Ed Booth 11 Apr, 2014 Lead RP G.u 3rd go today. Had fallen a few years back and then it had rained.
G.u 3rd go today. Had fallen a few years back and then it had rained.
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2014 Lead G/U
with Oli Grounsell
with Oli Grounsell
chris m fisher 19 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf Bugger. Must have been weighed down by the breakfast in Petes Eats
with Ken
Bugger. Must have been weighed down by the breakfast in Petes Eats
with Ken
Dave Turnbull, BMC 16 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
with Stuart McAleese
with Stuart McAleese
Glyn 27 Jul, 2012 Lead RP Onsight attempt, three falls then got it ground up with Will's beta for the crux and wIth gear In place. Awesome moves.
with Will Oates
Onsight attempt, three falls then got it ground up with Will's beta for the crux and wIth gear In place. Awesome moves.
with Will Oates
willoates 26 Jul, 2012 Lead β Wasn't going to get on this for ages but did after Glyn fell off so did it on his gear up to the top of the pillars. thought the description was a bit off. getting wrong handed on the pillars was a bit of a mistake, but will definitely do it again next time i go to the Grochan.
with Glyn
Wasn't going to get on this for ages but did after Glyn fell off so did it on his gear up to the top of the pillars. thought the description was a bit off. getting wrong handed on the pillars was a bit of a mistake, but will definitely do it again next time i go to the Grochan.
with Glyn
Hannes B 20 Jun, 2012 2nd dog
Luke Brooks 20 Jun, 2012 Lead β Took the lob from the crux, awesome! Then abbed down it to have a quick look at the holds. Did it next go, so easy when you know what you're doing.
with Hannes
Took the lob from the crux, awesome! Then abbed down it to have a quick look at the holds. Did it next go, so easy when you know what you're doing.
with Hannes
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 14 Aug, 2011 TR RP
Toby Dunn 1 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S A brilliant sequence, with substantial gear. Intense, but not particularly hard.
with Andy Cave
A brilliant sequence, with substantial gear. Intense, but not particularly hard.
with Andy Cave
AdrianP 2 Jul, 2011 Lead dog one rest, ground up... until next time
with Olli
one rest, ground up... until next time
with Olli
Pippa 29 Apr, 2011 2nd
Ally Smith 10 Apr, 2011 Lead dog
barni 29 Mar, 2011 Lead β quick look at the gear
quick look at the gear
Liam FLeming 29 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S Found it very easy
with barni
Found it very easy
with barni
Ed Booth 20 Mar, 2011 Lead dnf Few lobs onto the nut. Will be back. Conditions not ideal. Need to man up!
with Mikey G
Few lobs onto the nut. Will be back. Conditions not ideal. Need to man up!
with Mikey G
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Rich Kirby 12 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Sustained-F7a+/b. Top tip...use a sport rope. Great sequence, very sport climb-y.
with Pete
Sustained-F7a+/b. Top tip...use a sport rope. Great sequence, very sport climb-y.
with Pete
eddy-on-the-rocks 2 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf I got my feet above the 'the runner'. There is more gear than it looks like.
with Rich
I got my feet above the 'the runner'. There is more gear than it looks like.
with Rich
Alex Mason 28 May, 2010 Lead β Found it really hard and scary to get 'the bomber runners' in. Only felt E5 6a (bar move off the deck). Hung around for ages, being intimidated by the routes reputation. What an awesome pitch, proper moves. E5.7/f7a
with Laura Perry, Mike Goldthorp
Found it really hard and scary to get 'the bomber runners' in. Only felt E5 6a (bar move off the deck). Hung around for ages, being intimidated by the routes reputation. What an awesome pitch, proper moves. E5.7/f7a
with Laura Perry, Mike Goldthorp
Hidden 28 May, 2010 2nd dog
Sam W 2 May, 2010 2nd dog
with Sam Ring
with Sam Ring
hamer89 17 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S Awesome route, good run out gear pumpy to place. WEll chuffed to onsight this in February
Awesome route, good run out gear pumpy to place. WEll chuffed to onsight this in February
Mike Goldthorp 12 Feb, 2010 Lead RP 4 star!! Ground up 3rd try, placing gear on lead. Feels really cool to be doing proper difficult moves on trad gear, maybe F7a/+?
with Ben Alsford
4 star!! Ground up 3rd try, placing gear on lead. Feels really cool to be doing proper difficult moves on trad gear, maybe F7a/+?
with Ben Alsford
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
Cassidy 24 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S Brilliant route.
with Neil Busby
Brilliant route.
with Neil Busby
Hidden ??, 2009 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2008 Lead rpt
IOAN D 5 May, 2008 Lead brill
with Mills
brill
with Mills
lx 28 Aug, 2002 Lead
Hidden 1 Jun, 2001 Lead dog
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Ched ??, 1998 TR
Dave Musgrove Jnr ??, 1997 Lead RP
with Jon Sykes
with Jon Sykes
jfletcher 18 Aug, 1996 Lead dog Fell off after making a few moves past the good nuts. A replay of an attempt a couple of years earlier!
with John Boyle, sadams
Fell off after making a few moves past the good nuts. A replay of an attempt a couple of years earlier!
with John Boyle, sadams
sadams 23 Jun, 1996 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
Hidden ??, 1994 Lead dnf
Hidden ??, 1993 2nd RP
Mike Owen 14 May, 1992 Lead rpt
with Christian
with Christian
Hidden 26 May, 1990 2nd
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 2nd
with Dave Barton
with Dave Barton
Nick Biven ??, 1990 2nd
with Rich Whitwell
with Rich Whitwell
Chris Wright 28 May, 1989 Lead O/S
craig d ??, 1989 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 27 Sep, 1987 2nd
with Murray Hamilton
with Murray Hamilton
Mike Owen 2 Sep, 1987 Lead rpt
with Mark Taylor (Fluff)
with Mark Taylor (Fluff)
Hidden ?May, 1987 2nd
keefe 13 Sep, 1986 -
Mike Owen 22 Jun, 1986 Lead rpt
with Mike Mortimer
with Mike Mortimer
DDDD ??, 1986 Lead O/S
with Simon Lee
with Simon Lee
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1986 Lead
with John Baine
with John Baine
Mike Owen 7 Jul, 1985 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 31 Jul, 1983 Lead dnf
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 18
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set