Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
The first line of bolts encountered walking along the terrace under the Upper Lift Right. Hardest in its lower reaches. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Woodcroft quarry, to the right of Industrial Disease. Wye valley supplement, page 56. Climbs the narrow strip of less worrisome rock found at the widest area of the terrace. Some devious yet elegant technicalities on its initial bare wall. A touch snappy in the easy mid section.
Gordon Jenkin 29/Jan/2011.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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BexWaring | 19 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Stay direct and avoid going on the easier left part. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Stay direct and avoid going on the easier left part. |
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WyeValleyTashMan | 5 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Loose at the top, nice climbing though. | ||
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βeta: Loose at the top, nice climbing though. |
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HarryJohnston | 6 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Try not to stray too far left at the bottom, the most interesting moves are direct under the bolts | ||
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βeta: Try not to stray too far left at the bottom, the most interesting moves are direct under the bolts |
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sianabanana | 11 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Tricky stand up on the ledge - cricked my neck | ||
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βeta: Tricky stand up on the ledge - cricked my neck |
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Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wintour's Leap)