Rockfax Description
A spectacular pitch on good rock and good holds all the way, with enough protection from wires to keep the flutter factor manageable. Start beneath the amazing narrow wall of culm in the centre of the cliff.
Climb the heavily pock-marked wall just to the right of the arete, past a small spike runner at 8m (on the arete) to where it forks left. Continue up the face on the right past good but spaced gear to the top. Low in the technical grade. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

ChrisGard 02/Sep Lead
with Tarin Payne
abi.k.l 10/Aug 2nd

Possibly my favourite climb of the holiday so far. Magical rock and wonderful technical moves. Bit of a bother getting down though- abseiled off some of our tat on an in situ stake towards the main tourist beach, struggled to pull our ropes through, then just managed to scramble across to the other beach to retrieve our bags 2-2.5 hours after low tide.

with David
David Kay 10/Aug Lead O/S

Probably my favourite route of the trip - just enough gear in the right places.

willow harman 20/Jun Lead O/S
Rob Davies 11/May 2nd

Dave retreated when rain shower began; he tried again after rock had dried out, but it still seemed a bit sandy. Left slings at top to use both stakes. Gear not great but OK.

with Dave Nicol
cameron_hall 02/May 2nd O/S

A much more relaxing climb after Caravanserai. Really pleasant climbing even if there wasn't much gear for the leader.

gritstone7 ?/May Lead O/S
with HB
whiteexplorer 13/Mar 2nd O/S
dready 13/Mar Lead O/S

id say easy climbing but the gears pretty terrible you'd want to be Very confident at the grade or don't fall off. nice face climbing though

Tboeckx ??/2017 -
Lady Vee 19/Jul/16 2nd
callummackay 16/Mar/16 2nd
with Brendon Green , Laurance Haxton
Laurence20 16/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Callum Mackay, Brendan Greene
jack morris 94 ??/2016 -
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Homes 04/Jul/15 -
with Leo
steveprice.exmouth 04/Jun/15 2nd
with Scott
stephen ashworth 06/Mar/15 Lead
with Jack gray
Jackislav 06/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Seconded Steve on this amazing climb, really nice climbing all the way, gear looked like it required a bit of a head game!

Thinker01 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Nice and easy but you wouldn't want to fall off! If you've got some micro cams take them or it'll be even further down.

RFWilkie 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Probably more like a fluttery but very easy VS 4a/4b.

with Mark
Trobbo 17/Jun/14 2nd
with martin dale
Matthew Martin Wsm 27/May/14 TR O/S

good climb, pretty sparse protection but good hold all the way! will return to lead this by end of the year!

with matt sim
Hidden 25/May/14 2nd
CurlyStevo 18/May/14 Lead

lovely climb a 3 star route IMO. run out in places so a steady leader at the grade is required.

with clipskipper
clipskipper 18/May/14 2nd O/S

Pleasant steady route with some amazing rock on the first section. Worth the trip, for sure.

Sandreas 06/May/14 2nd
Matt Smith 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Technically easy but sparse gear. Very nice climb.

Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
misterb 30/Mar/14 2nd
with crispin
mike mo ??/2014 -
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Colin
dmannion ??/2014 -

Good route

Hidden 17/Dec/13 Lead O/S
outdoorrob999 17/Dec/13 2nd
Macca_7 28/Nov/13 Lead rpt

Really nice to do a route with Phil again

Macca_7 24/Nov/13 Solo

Lovely route lovely day always a pleasure to do this especially on a day like today!

with Stu Bradbury
Skip 08/Sep/13 TR rpt
with Joel
Jelly Mould Surfer 08/Sep/13 TR rpt

Too wet to lead

with skip
Hidden 07/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 25/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 06/Aug/13 2nd
Tala A 24/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Mr Powly 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Ian B
Hidden 17/Jul/13 Lead
Marti999 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Ian JL 30/May/13 Lead O/S
westong 26/May/13 2nd
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Robin Woodward ?/May/13 Lead
demarcation86 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Lots of small cams make it pretty safe. Nice route.

with Elbish
Kirill 29/Mar/13 2nd O/S

It didn't look like it had much gear, so it was my partner's turn to lead.

cem 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Joel Perkin 14/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Thorpe
Jelly Mould Surfer 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Top route. Not much protection, but all that's needed is a cool head

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Skip 13/Dec/12 2nd O/S

Grade about right.

Cheese Monkey 13/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Nice route with some lovey moves.

with Skip
treg 23/Sep/12 2nd
with Ben
benkelsey 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

lead then belayed anna on my gear then seconded it. good effort from anna on first HVS lead!

with Anna
gripped01 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Mark Hill
markhill371 25/Aug/12 2nd
with Jonathon Percival
Michael Aylen 07/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Macca
Hidden 01/Jul/12 2nd
dohart 26/Jun/12 2nd
with stu bradbury
Okecroak 01/Jun/12 Lead

No pegs

with W. Frost
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Spearos 06/May/12 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead
Tom Seccombe 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ben Woods, tj murry
josh william legg ??/2012 Lead
Anna duckett ??/2012 2nd
with Ben Kelsey
sparbus 12/Oct/11 Lead
with mike b
Steve Webster 03/Oct/11 2nd
Adrian Daniels 03/Oct/11 Lead
just one more 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Spaced gear,but easy technically

with Max B, Phil K
oscaig 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Lovely route and fascinating rock. Gear OK on lower half but starts to disappear on upper part (thankfully where it starts to ease off a bit).

with R Tidy
bobtheclimber 21/Sep/11 TR O/S
Mark Kemball 21/Sep/11 Lead
with Steph Le Cornu, Rob Keough
domskezz 19/Sep/11 Lead
with Jamma
Jim Malo 17/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Stu
msoldn 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Thoroughly enjoyable, with plenty of gear if you look for it.

with Rory
ruaidh 14/Aug/11 2nd

A 'must do' climb. Soft HVS, but v. atospheric.

with Michael
Chad123 10/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

The gear is actually pretty good if a little spaced, small wires and cams useful. Technically it's no more than 4b but great rock and very enjoyable especially at high tide with big waves coming in!

with Jo
annetweddell 03/Aug/11 Lead
with Jeff
Country_Boy 28/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Stu Bradbury
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
laurie turpin 13/Jul/11 2nd
with Ed Evans
tom_hall(: ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
nickstephens 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 22/May/11 Lead O/S
tim exley 20/May/11 Lead O/S
with michael
Michael Aylen 20/May/11 2nd
Jo sumner 03/May/11 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis ?/May/11 Lead
with Laura
Jules 210681 25/Apr/11 2nd
Zoomer 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Easy climbing but don't 'think' about the lack of gear. Amazing rock, loved it.

victim of mathematics 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S

"Good but spaced gear" is rather inaccurate. More like "a reasonable amount of shonky gear, but not much that's very inspiring". Nice climbing though, maybe only 4b?

crossdressingrodney 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead
culmclimberRob 05/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Haytor_Haggis 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Bob Dawson, Steve Woollard
Steve Woollard 24/Oct/10 Lead
with Kevin Colclough, Bob Dawson
Hidden 14/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 13/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Luuuuuke 04/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Max C
Legs 04/Oct/10 2nd O/S
sdi 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Tom K
Hidden 29/Aug/10 2nd
manwithacam 29/Aug/10 Lead

great rock, nice climbing

with Sarah
Hidden 06/Aug/10 -
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Aug/10 -
with Clare
Bristoldave 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Fairly serious but prob only 4b

gangreen 03/Jul/10 -
Chris_barr 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Snappy top, gear not brilliant.

with Mike
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 22/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/May/09 Lead dnf
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Macca_7 18/Apr/08 Solo rpt

Really lovely climb as always

Hidden ?/Apr/08 TR
Hidden 23/Feb/08 TR O/S
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
drpeters ??/2008 -
with Iain Peters
dan gibson 30/Oct/07 Solo O/S
John Kettle 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S

no pegs present so rather bolder than expected

Bob M 12/Apr/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/07 TR
greg101 04/Feb/07 Lead
with Ben Amor
Hidden ??/2007 -
Bob Peters ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden ?/May/05 Solo
Hidden ?/Apr/04 TR
drpeters ??/2004 -
Hidden 25/Aug/03 TR
Hidden 03/May/03 Lead O/S
Samuel P 19/Apr/03 2nd
with Luke
Hidden ??/2003 TR
Hidden 17/Aug/01 Solo
rockjedi12345 ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Stocker
Macca_7 18/Mar/01 Lead O/S

Not much gear

with Bev Brody
rockjedi12345 ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Phil Mathews
Mark Kemball 30/Jul/00 Lead
Hidden 07/May/00 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/2000 -
mikej 17/Feb/98 Lead
with E
Roget 17/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Hidden 16/Jun/96 Lead
Didymus 11/Jul/95 Lead O/S

Only bold at top

with Marcus
auld al ?/May/95 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Dave Henderson
alan moore ??/1994 -

Not bad. Put a peg in but it turned out to be easy.

Ian Jones ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden 14/Jun/92 2nd
whispering nic ?/Dec/91 Lead
with Ali W
JimR ??/1991 -
Dave Rumney ?/Jun/90 -
Mickdenali ??/1988 Lead
with Gail Waller
Hidden 23/May/87 -
eroica64 06/Apr/86 Lead O/S
with Paul Smethurst
Paul Clarke ??/1981 -
with FMC
Martin Bennett 31/Jul/80 -
with Magi
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Ken Taylor 15/Apr/79 AltLd
with Richard Langthorp
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 35
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set