Rockfax Description
Suffered from a rock fall and now loose and unstable although it has been climbed since the rock fall. It was the finest pitch at Compass Point and one of the Culm Coast's enduring classics. Start right of the earth ramp below a large pocket at 4m. Easily gain a massive pocket and then climb to a peg up and to the left. Continue up with conviction to another large pocket and peg. Move out of the pocket leftwards with difficulty and gain the final shallow pocket, peg. Take the wall above past a further peg to the top. Awkward belays on the backside of the ridge. Descend by scrambling left an abseiling from stakes. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
APRIL 2015 UPDATE - The summit ridge above this has suffered another rock fall and the top section is likely to be unstable. Take great care on this route.

Sustained, delicate slab climbing makes this the pick of the routes at Compass Point. Starting under the overhangs on the right of the slab, link the larger and smaller pockets trending leftwards before finishing the top half of the slab direct. Protected mostly by pegs, small nuts and cams are useful, as are larger gear for the belay.

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Rooney90 05/Nov/17 2nd
danjouan 05/Nov/17 2nd O/S
whiteexplorer 13/Mar/17 2nd O/S

If you want to climb this route, you had better be quick, it won't be around for long, superb route

dready 13/Mar/17 Lead O/S

2017 update this climbs fine all the pegs are ok the last 6ft has slumped back but this doesn't affect the route. An outstanding climb

RachelP 24/Sep/16 2nd

Base of route in good condition. Care required at the top of the cliff. Big gear for the reasonably (?) stable blocks at the top. Crag best accessed from about 200m up the hill from the point, down a steep path and walking across the beach. DO NOT attempt to walk the ridge...its sketchy!!

Legs 21/Jul/16 Lead β

We checked the top on the route first and all is still solid at the moment. A belay can be created using massive cams. I wouldn't venture any further along the top though. The route is still awesome. I seconded this a few times when I lived locally. I have been wanting to lead it for years. Brilliant climbing with just enough gear between the pockets. The pegs are in ok condition and the first two can be backed up with nuts. There is also a nut in the first pocket to make the start not as bold before the first peg. It will be a shame when this finally falls into the sea.

jack morris 94 ??/2016 -
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
steveprice.exmouth 04/Jun/15 2nd
with Scott
stephen ashworth 06/Mar/15 Lead
with Jack gray
Jackislav 06/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Incredible route, lovely slab climbing all the way, gear is a bit run out but nonetheless straightforward

chris wyatt 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

First peg looked worrying to me. Bold but relatively straightforward. Tide seems to stay up a long time when you are waiting to do this route

with rich
FelixJT ?/Aug/14 2nd
with stu bradbury, ben terrell
Trobbo 17/Jun/14 2nd
with martin dale
Mark Kemball 04/May/14 Lead
Matt Smith 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Surprised how comfortable I found this. Plenty of places for rests before tricky sections

Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd
Alex Mason ??/2014 Lead O/S

Superb climbing. Run up it with an encrouching tide to have waves smash the base of the route moments after Jem set off. A nice day out in Bude.

with Jemma Powell
mike mo ??/2014 -
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Mark the vet
Mark Kemball 29/Dec/13 Lead
with Nic Dill
Samuel Wainwright 17/Dec/13 2nd O/S
with Rob Steer
outdoorrob999 17/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Macca_7 28/Nov/13 Lead rpt

Really nice to do a route with Phil again even if I couldn't convince him to follow!

Hidden 07/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead
RCrockford 28/Jul/13 2nd
with Mike B
Tala A 24/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Mr Powly 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Ian B
burto 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with tom powell
Hidden 19/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 19/Jul/13 2nd O/S
nickstephens 14/Jul/13 Lead dog

3G has been nice and said that I can consider this a clean accent despite resting my finger on the bolt whilst trying to disengage the tangled quickdraw! Todays lesson, the quickdraw does not fit through both lobes of the bolt and "gentle" persuasion will only make things worse :o) To be honest, it was such a great route I don't mind going back to ammend the record!

gg4419 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Lovely route, pegs seemed in fairly good condition, run out but seemed safe.

simonhammond1966 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Great climb. A bit run out but this just gets you focused on the moves.

Joe Rudman 04/Jul/13 2nd dog

Excellent route, shame about the two falls :/

Hidden 26/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd O/S
stuart34 04/May/13 Lead O/S
tim.fairhall 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
Kirill 29/Mar/13 2nd O/S
cem 29/Mar/13 Lead rpt
Joel Perkin 14/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Thorpe
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
benkelsey 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

good! pegs are the main gear, but backed up within reason. first bit of bomber gear I felt was 1m from the top!

with Anna
jgordon75 29/Aug/12 Lead O/S

E1 5b

gripped01 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Mark Hill
markhill371 25/Aug/12 2nd
with Jonathon Percival
Davebryant ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Michael Aylen 07/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Macca
martin clarke 01/Jul/12 2nd
Frostie 01/Jul/12 Lead

Easy E2 unless I was climbing well.

with Martin Clarke
dohart 26/Jun/12 2nd
with stu bradbury
James Oswald 21/Jun/12 Lead O/S

E1 if the pegs would hold, e2 if they wouldn't. This was brilliant, non stressful climbing.

Okecroak 01/Jun/12 2nd
with W. Frost
Jelly Mould Surfer 25/May/12 2nd rpt

I can't believe I actually lead this thing 23 years ago, the years have taken their toll on my abilities. My hardest climb in 23 years, even if it was second.

Joel Perkin 16/May/12 2nd O/S

Brilliant climb, very technical climbing, but with really good rests in between. Only bit sketchy for the leader would be the climb up to the first peg and past it, bit run out.

with Simon Hammond
Spearos 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Soft for E2. Lots of rests ang pegs are in good condition. Maybe worth the grade if pegs were not used, natural protection is good. Nice climb though.

with Mike
Dan Lane 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Stunning route and the pegs are in fairly good condition too.

with Catherine Jackson, Martin Kocsis
boyceyboy6 25/Mar/12 -
Tom Seccombe 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Ben Woods, tj murry
cymjt ??/2012 -
Ian JL ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 Lead

Held the peg in place with my hand as I went past.

Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead
just one more 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Superb.Probably E1 as pegs seem ok and are mainly ok to back up

with Max B, Phil K
bobtheclimber 21/Sep/11 TR O/S
Mark Kemball 21/Sep/11 Lead
with Steph Le Cornu, Rob Keough
domskezz 19/Sep/11 Lead

Very nice climbing. E2 5c in my guidebook but i'd say 5b.

with Jamma
Jim Malo 17/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Stu
msoldn 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Doesn't look like much from below, but wow, the moment you step onto it you know this is gonna be one enjoyable ride. Feels easy when approached with E2 mindset.

with Rory
ruaidh 14/Aug/11 2nd

One 50/50 moment at the top, but otherwise manageable. Beautiful, open face climbing on perfect rock.

with Michael
Chad123 10/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Excellent route with lots of nice technical climbing, gear is good, though spaced in places and there are so many pegs it's almost a sport route! Soft E2 all in all like most at this cliff...

with Jo
annetweddell 03/Aug/11 2nd

Bit necky for E2, depending on how you feel about pegs in sea cliffs.

with Jeff
Country_Boy 28/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Stu Bradbury
tim exley 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
ParkFace 25/May/11 2nd O/S

Beautiful . . Not sure I could lead it though, pretty desperate!

with Pete Greening
jonnie3430 24/May/11 Lead O/S
with Carol
Hidden 14/May/11 2nd
Nick Wallis ?/May/11 Lead
with Laura
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
petellis 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Aly
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead
Tom Seccombe 23/Feb/11 TR rpt

bailed the lead

culmclimberRob 05/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Stu Bradbury
manwithacam 29/Aug/10 2nd

lovely stuff

with Mike R
Bristoldave 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Easy for 5b, not badly protected, never E2!

Hidden 29/Jul/10 -
Chris_barr 13/Jun/10 Lead β

Lead on Mikes gear after he lead.

with Mike
Hidden 01/Jun/10 Lead β
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Bobby Gilbert 03/May/10 Lead O/S

Good pegs at present, and they can nearly all be backed up with reasonable gear. Enjoyable route.

with Gary Burgess
Hidden 15/Apr/10 2nd
surfboybert 07/Mar/10 Lead β

exelent climb first E2 first moves are the boldest then becomes easier as you get further left! defiantly worth 3 stars

vertically_challenged ?/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2010 -
JasonG ??/2010 -
pezzerrr 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/09 TR
Hidden 15/Sep/08 2nd O/S
climbingpixie 15/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Great route. Pegs seemed in reasonable nick but glad I didn't fall on them.

with James
Owen W-G 21/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Superb moves throughout. Pegs in good condition Jul 08. E2 5b but low in grade and certainly 3 stars.

with Simon Denison
chris sm 25/May/08 Lead rpt

Excellent route - easy climbing but quite bold. You would deck out from the moves into the big pocket at 40'. Best E1 on the Culm?

with Pippa Froggatt
Mike W ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 Solo
JasonG ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Kirsti Gordon
John Kettle 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
AJM ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Cool route. Given E2 5b in the current guide, and E1/2 5c in South West Climbs.

with Dave Westlake
Mark Kemball 14/Jan/06 Lead

Have lead this a number of times before - an excellent route.

with Stacey Ward
Katy Nelson 18/Jun/05 2nd dog
with Mark Kemball
Hidden 10/May/05 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/05 Solo
cem 28/Mar/05 Lead O/S
furry 26/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Neil
duncan 18/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
Hidden 03/May/03 Lead O/S
Samuel P 19/Apr/03 2nd
with Luke
spidermonkey ??/2002 Lead O/S

Was a nice route. Very soft e2 I thought. Shame about the rockfall now tho

Macca_7 03/Jun/01 Lead O/S

Great line up a lovely slab of rock slightly scared before I clipped the first peg

with Andy H
SR1970 ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Stocker
rockjedi12345 ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/00 2nd
Bullybones ??/2000 -
hdog76 ??/1999 Lead
goi.ashmore 20/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 08/Apr/98 2nd rpt
mikej 17/Feb/98 Lead
with E
Nigel Coe ??/1998 Lead
chris sm ?/Sep/97 2nd O/S
with Jim Hall
John Southworth ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S
Roget 17/Jun/97 Lead O/S
kp64zl ?/Jun/97 Lead
with Kirsten
andy_pemberton ?/Apr/97 Lead
with Rik Meek
nickcanute ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/96 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/96 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/96 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/96 Lead
Didymus 11/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Marcus
frost ?/May/95 -
with M Pritchard, J Turner
auld al ?/May/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 -
with Dave Henderson
daviesxxx ??/1994 Lead
Rob Davies 29/Aug/93 Lead

Not too hard technically but spaced gear - E2 5b?

with Roy Lindsay
Ian Jones ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Nigel Coe ??/1993 Lead
Hidden 14/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 10/May/92 Lead
with Lee Bartrop
Hidden 27/Apr/92 Lead O/S
kp64zl ?/Apr/92 2nd
with Jason M
Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
whispering nic ?/Dec/91 Lead
with Ali W
Andy Fielding 06/Sep/91 2nd
with Mark Lardner
Dave Turnbull 31/May/91 Lead
with Jane Turnbull
kp64zl ?/May/91 Lead
with Paul
Hidden 07/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney ?/Jun/90 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Andy Say 03/Nov/89 Lead
Jelly Mould Surfer 02/Sep/89 Lead O/S

Fantastic Climb

Tom V 17/Aug/87 -
with Howie Darwin
Hidden 24/May/87 Lead
clark alston ?/Sep/86 Lead O/S
with Andy Turner
Hidden 21/Jul/86 Lead O/S
eroica64 06/Apr/86 Lead

Soft touch E1 lead. Second did not follow.

with Paul Smethurst
ecowaller ??/1986 Lead
with bunny
Hidden 08/Aug/84 TR O/S
Greg Cunningham ??/1984 Lead
Hidden 28/Oct/82 Lead
Mike C 05/Jun/82 2nd
with Chris Davis
The Reaper 24/Aug/81 2nd O/S
Chris Terrey 11/Jul/81 Lead
with Mike O'Brien, Gerry Dunford
mark-abz 31/May/81 Lead O/S
with Brian W
Paul Clarke ??/1981 -
with FMC
Martin Bennett 31/Jul/80 TR
with Magi
DanW ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Ken Taylor 15/Apr/79 AltLd
with Richard Langthorp
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