Rockfax Description
This once classic line has suffered a serious collapse in its upper section and is no longer stable. Please avoid it. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Sadly, the top half has fallen down and the bottom half is now dangerously unstable. Avoid!

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

cameron_hall 02/May/17 Lead O/S

Well, that was a mistake. We didn't realise from the bottom that this route had fallen down. I can confirm that there is still a great deal of loose and friable rock, and the protection in the top half is no longer good (although I'd have been much happier if I'd had a cam that fitted the one solid-looking slot). Technically, the route is probably still much the same grade (low end of 5a, maybe even 4c if you could trust what you're standing on), but it is now just horrible and dangerous. We felt very happy to get to the top without incident. As the new route description says: Avoid!

jack morris 94 ??/2016 -
hutchay 04/May/14 Lead

Easy climbing. But the top section was rather loose and the crack larger than all my gear. Top out was also pretty sketchy as there was nothing to hold onto.

with Tom
Sandreas 03/May/14 2nd
dmannion 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

started with a 5b direct boulder problem

steven703 ?/Apr/14 -
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2014 2nd O/S
with Mark the vet
mike mo ??/2014 -
Mark Kemball 29/Dec/13 2nd
with Nick Cox, Nic Dill
Hidden 31/Oct/13 2nd
jezb1 30/Oct/13 Lead

Nice route. Atmospheric with the wind and fast approaching tide! Didn't really have any big enough gear for the top crack which added some spice. In my opinion 4c and a slightly easy hvs due to slightly dodgy rock. Didn't think top out was bad.

Adrian Daniels 21/Sep/13 Lead
with John Parrott, Steve Webster
Steve Webster 21/Sep/13 2nd
Jelly Mould Surfer 08/Sep/13 TR
with skip
Skip 08/Sep/13 TR rpt
with Joel
Hidden 13/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 06/Aug/13 2nd
burto 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with tom powell
Hidden 19/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/13 Lead
gg4419 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Direct start and dropped a rope over the top for last section.

jmills94 ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
timstyles 19/May/13 Lead O/S
jon bradley 19/May/13 2nd rpt
with Tim Styles
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Hmgslade 05/May/13 Lead
with Jack
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
stuart34 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Robin Woodward ?/May/13 Lead
demarcation86 30/Mar/13 2nd O/S

Direct start well worth it.

with Elbish
Kirill 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
cem 29/Mar/13 2nd rpt
Jelly Mould Surfer 02/Feb/13 2nd rpt

Direct start - hard 5b, but protected (not that I lead it) and short lived.

Skip 13/Dec/12 2nd O/S

Excellent climb, lots of "interesting moves". Probably low end of HVS.

Cheese Monkey 13/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Best route on the crag today, but no way HVS. Loads of sort of awkward but good 4c moves, all most back n footed a section. Belay was straightforward. Will come back for the direct start!

with Skip
Jim Malo 17/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Putt
treg 23/Sep/12 2nd

Think Ben led it, but can't remember for sure cos it was a couple of years ago.

with Ben
benkelsey 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

felt loose but probably wasn't, but good route. take big gear for the top. interesting yet safe belay.

with Anna
Whitmoreaa 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Dan Pinkney
climbingchippie 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
markhill371 25/Aug/12 2nd
with Jonathon Percival
gripped01 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Mark Hill
martin clarke 01/Jul/12 2nd
simonhammond1966 05/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Nice climb with Nicola. Didn't realise it at the time that this route would disappear and this would be the last time I'd climb it.

Jelly Mould Surfer 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Went really well, but the run out over the loose stuff is very exciting. If a rope is fixed to the top to protect the loose finish the route would go at a satisfying VS 4c.

Hidden 26/May/12 2nd
Jelly Mould Surfer 25/May/12 2nd O/S

Mike T lead

Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/12 2nd
AJH 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Pretty straightforward - need larger gear than I had, and the top out is a bit loose and scary

with Rebecca
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead
climbingchippie ??/2012 Lead
Anna duckett ??/2012 2nd
with Ben Kelsey
Hidden 20/Nov/11 2nd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Nov/11 Lead

bit loose at top

edmitchell 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
emmarowe 16/Oct/11 2nd
bobtheclimber 21/Sep/11 TR O/S
Mark Kemball 21/Sep/11 Lead
with Steph Le Cornu, Rob Keough
domskezz 19/Sep/11 Lead
with Jamma
msoldn 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Did direct start (5b), which makes for a more consistent route with fun from the word go.

with Rory
ruaidh 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Direct start (5a/b) makes this a HVS. Otherwise top end VS 4c. Cracking route. Take at least three big cams and save two for the top third to avoid the runout. 60m rope will just about make it to the fence posts, otherwise belay of clumps of grass.

with Michael
Chad123 10/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

HVS 5a in new rockfax and has a pumpy symbol which is funny cos it's on your feet the whole way! Also more like VS 4b, but very enjoyable all the same and a slightly exciting topout.

with Jo
annetweddell 03/Aug/11 Lead

Dirty, loose and character building finish up soil. Max seconded in Jeff's rucksack.

with Max, the dog, Jeff
Joey C 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Legs 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Began on the 5b start up the crack. Its better rock than if you begin on the 4a start the guide book recommends. I really enjoyed following the crack up, lay-backing at points and a lot of bridging. There are some good no hands rests and the gear is fine. I think some 'seagull bashers' would be useful as the crack widens, but by then there are some massive flat jugs to hold on to (and I had not got any!) The crux is probably when the crack leaves the arete. The top out is the worst part; proper Culm Coast top out! Rocks jammed into mud, which are very loose. A really good HVS for an introduction to what this coastline can be like sometimes; loose top outs and imaginative belays!

Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
mikeyg 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Comedy top out and belay when your ropes are only 45m......

thehugehead 11/Jun/11 2nd
with mikeyg
tim exley 02/Jun/11 Lead β
with spooner
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
jonnie3430 24/May/11 Lead O/S
with Carol
steveprice.exmouth 22/May/11 2nd
with Pete Callaghan
petecallaghan 22/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
jkarran 24/Apr/11 Lead

Good climbing if a little worrying at the top, it's actually sounder than it looks

with Karen
petellis 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S


crossdressingrodney 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Michael Aylen 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Joel Perkin 21/Jan/11 2nd dnf

Looked like a brilliant climb, however only Tim led up because we ran out of time. He told me it was a good climb with fairly lush handholds and protection. Deffinately one to go back and try again.

with Tim Holland, Mike Garret
gavkellyuk ??/2011 Lead O/S
El3ctroFuzz 11/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Direct Start - Good quality Route. Looseness just a prerequisite for the North Coast!

with Joby
Steve Woollard 24/Oct/10 Lead
with Kevin Colclough, Bob Dawson
sdi 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tom K
Hidden 29/Aug/10 2nd
manwithacam 29/Aug/10 Lead

Climbed the direct start, all seemed easy for the grade. Didnt take big gear tho so felt a bit unnerved. Sorting out the belay at the top to the fence was a pain, would have been better off just lying down on other side of ridge and using my bodyweight.

with Sarah
demarcation86 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 07/Aug/10 -
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Aug/10 -
with Clare
Barry Kerslake ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Steve H
Chris_barr 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Good route, but chossy top and very little to belay one, belayed over other side of the ridge. 5b start.

with Mike
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 29/Jun/09 Solo
Hidden 23/Mar/09 Lead O/S
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden 26/Aug/07 2nd O/S
mrtom 25/Aug/07 2nd O/S

Did the direct (5b) start. Not as hard as it looked. Good climb, but top out on loose, crappy rock. Not much to belay off if you don't want to go right back to the fence...

with Roger HSmith
riddle ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S

magic route, direct move is special.

with Tom Elliot
Bob M 12/Apr/07 Lead
greg101 04/Feb/07 2nd
with Ben Amor
Hidden ??/2007 -
Bob Peters ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Dad
eley1 ?/Jul/06 Lead
with graham
Hidden ?/Jul/06 2nd
Katy Nelson 18/Jun/05 2nd O/S
with Mark Kemball
Hidden 12/Jun/05 2nd
angleseykayaker 02/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Kate Lucas
Mark Kemball ?/Jun/05 Lead
cem 28/Mar/05 2nd
furry 26/Jun/04 Lead O/S

Direct start, a bit soggy

with Neil
duncan 18/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
drpeters ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2003 TR
Hidden 17/Aug/01 Solo
rockjedi12345 ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Stocker
Macca_7 09/Mar/01 Lead O/S
with Bev Brody
rockjedi12345 ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Phil Mathews
Hidden 07/May/00 Lead O/S
mikej 28/Aug/99 Lead

Carried a short metal stake (plus hammer) up the route to use as a belay.

with Fiona Turner
kp64zl ?/Jun/97 2nd
with Kirsten
andy_pemberton ??/1997 Lead
colin milton 08/Sep/96 Lead
with eric milton
Hidden 02/Jun/96 Lead
Hidden 10/Apr/96 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/95 2nd O/S
alan moore ??/1995 -

Really enjoyable.

clark alston ?/Jul/94 2nd
with Dave Henderson
Ian Jones ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Nigel Coe ??/1993 -
kp64zl ?/Apr/92 Lead
with Keith, Jason M
Marti999 ??/1992 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull 31/May/91 Lead
with Jane Turnbull
JimR ??/1991 -
Dave Rumney ?/Jun/90 -
Bullybones ??/1990 -
Andy Say 03/Nov/89 Lead
eroica64 25/Apr/88 AltLd
with Denis Crampton
Mickdenali ??/1988 Lead
with Gail Waller
Tom V 17/Aug/87 -
with Howie Darwin
Hidden 24/May/87 Lead
Andy Fielding ??/1987 2nd
Ken Taylor 12/May/85 AltLd
with Andy Chadwick, Richard Langthorp
Hidden 11/Aug/84 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ?/Jul/82 Lead O/S

First HVS Lead

Mike C 05/Jun/82 Lead
with Chris Davis
The Reaper 24/Aug/81 Lead O/S
mark-abz 17/Apr/81 2nd
with Lionell
Chris Terrey 14/Mar/81 Lead
with Gerry Dunford
Paul Clarke ??/1981 -
with FMC
babymoac 22/Aug/80 2nd
with MTW
Martin Bennett 31/Jul/80 TR
with Magi
Hidden ??/0000 2nd
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 36
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set