UKC

58m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A memorable climb, its two upper pitches containing some especially great climbing. They are split by an exposed belay. Start at the base of the reddish left-slanting rake.
1) 26m. Climb up the rake to a small ledge where it steepens.
2) 4b, 12m. Step up and then pull up right on good holds to a small slanting overhang and make a tricky move past it to a good ledge. Move up the wall into a slabby bay and traverse left to good wire belays in a crack. A great stance.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb the technical crack and corner above to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , High Quality Adventure routes , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Classic VS's , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Cornwall 2021 , Cornwall , Kernow , Cornwall - October 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 1 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1 is disappointing - easy and uninspiring. Didn't find it obvious at all where to belay. Pitch 2 we got lost and ended up mainly on Autumn Flakes. So I traversed back across for pitch 3. Pitch 3 is good - very run out crux!! Hard moves with only a small nut getting further away. IMO there are too many lines on this cliff. A combination of Autumn Flakes (especially first pitch) into Nameless would be much better - don't see the point of the first pitch? Second pitch sounds good if you find it.
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βeta: Pitch 1 is disappointing - easy and uninspiring. Didn't find it obvious at all where to belay. Pitch 2 we got lost and ended up mainly on Autumn Flakes. So I traversed back across for pitch 3. Pitch 3 is good - very run out crux!! Hard moves with only a small nut getting further away. IMO there are too many lines on this cliff. A combination of Autumn Flakes (especially first pitch) into Nameless would be much better - don't see the point of the first pitch? Second pitch sounds good if you find it.
Tall Oak 17 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Led P2 and P3 in one. Conor on P1.
βeta?
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βeta: Led P2 and P3 in one. Conor on P1.
JimOakleyAdventures 5 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Easy first pitch more like a Severe
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βeta: Easy first pitch more like a Severe
LakesWinter 1 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 2 stars max - ok but not amazing.
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βeta: 2 stars max - ok but not amazing.
mishabruml 8 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: terrible rockfax description for p2, and I am not the first to make this mistake judging by the amount of chalk/clearly used holds/gear on p2 of paradise (??) description should indicate climbing well up above the belay before pulling right... unless the way I climbed was correct in which case it should mention the slim corner-slab and difficult moves left to rounded jugs... but the topo does not indicate going this way, to be fair
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: terrible rockfax description for p2, and I am not the first to make this mistake judging by the amount of chalk/clearly used holds/gear on p2 of paradise (??) description should indicate climbing well up above the belay before pulling right... unless the way I climbed was correct in which case it should mention the slim corner-slab and difficult moves left to rounded jugs... but the topo does not indicate going this way, to be fair

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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Repeated
DNF
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Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
South Face Direct

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Chair Ladder)

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