UKC

315m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
VS. A good route following a strong natural line and with a grand finish. The whole thing can be managed on a single rope although this might make retreat difficult. Start at the groove where the name is scratched.
1) 4+, 45m. The vegetated groove, and its cleaner continuation lead to a tree belay. The groove 12m to the left is a better and cleaner alternative, with no change in the grade.
2) 4, 45m. Traverse diagonally right to a tree and continue past a pair of bolts to a belay on a pair of pegs.
3) 4+, 30m. Move right into a groove with a bush and climb this. At the its top move right up slabs to belay on a huge ledge.
4) 4+, 55m. Scramble up right to a left slanting break (possible belay), and climb this to a long ridge. Follow this to the top of a pillar and a two bolt belay in a corner.
5) 4+, 50m. Move up and left into a groove and left again into another. Up this to an exit on the left to ledge and peg belay.
6) 4+, 45m. Continue up the ridge (pegs) to reach a ledge just below the crest, single peg belay.
7) 3, 45m. Move up right onto the ridge and traverse right to first deep notch in the ridge, and a 3 bolt belay with wire cable. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, The Big Easys.


ClimberDateStyle
SteveSBlake 09/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

A worthwhile adventure, the better climbing is high up after the massive ledge. We only used one of the Rockfax belays low down, and the stated pitch lengths seem off a bit. British VS is a good way of expressing the grade, there is fixed gear, but some of it is spaced and some tatty. Descended down the back in two abs - used a 100m skinny, so had 50m to play with. I had about 10m spare at the end of the first ab and we didn't see an intermediary belay/station on the way down..... Though some seem to have spotted one. The second ab was much shorter. A small path cuts off the scree around the base back to the start. I think around 4 1/2 hours up and down.

Mark Eddy 20/Oct/17 AltLd

In 6 huge pitches. Stayed in the shade until 1pm. We had an 80m rope so 2 abseils was enough to get to the deck. It's possible to split into 3 abseils if using shorter ropes

with Stig
Stiga 20/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
with Mark eddy
TMTSZ 17/Oct/17 2nd O/S
Hellieg 17/Oct/17 2nd
Jim-Roberts-1987 05/Oct/17 Lead
with Gemmapan, Tony McPhillips
Gemmapan 05/Oct/17 2nd
Juan Ruiz 03/Sep/17 AltLd

Primero en 1º, 3º, 5º y 7º.

with David
Hidden 07/Apr/17 AltLd
KittyKat 29/May/16 AltLd

First pitch is very green but route gets better the higher up you get. Lead P1, 3, 5, 7

with Rocio, Fede
Mark Eddy 19/Jan/16 Lead

Brilliant day out. 7h 30m car to car climbing as a 3 and not rushing. The climbing is reasonable, with a few sections being excellent. But the atmosphere and exposure make this into a very worthwhile route. A fair few old pegs and some bolted belays, but not all and definitely consider this a trad route, take a full rack. Abseil off the back then a fun scree run descent back to the crag base.

with Ann Leese, Kim Jackson
gaz3212 06/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
Rhyswhitehead1 08/Oct/15 2nd

7 pitches, all day climb

Hidden 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Mattwc 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S
ads 07/Mar/15 AltLd
Zoomer 26/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Rockfax pitch lengths are way off. Good route with some route finding needed. Pretty much trad all the way.

with A Student
Hidden 26/Nov/14 2nd
Hidden 25/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
bridget143 03/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

ASCENT: Some route finding difficulties as pitch lengths given are mostly too long and it is perfectly possible to do fewer longer pitches here as plenty of belaying opportunities. Ended up doing a harder looser variation higher up but still good although the harder routes in the area appear less vegetated. DESCENT: No problem abseiling off back in 2 abseils with single 70m rope, would have needed a third with a 60m. Much better, if you have double ropes, to abseil back down the west face off shiny bolts and chain which you can find at the same point on ridge, this brings you down to big ledge and avoid the steep scree slope at the back.

with Simen
Hidden 28/Dec/13 2nd
Freshprintce 04/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Hotcake 05/Apr/13 AltLd

Very good route. 8 pitch Trad (VS). Alt leads but Lead the top two harder pitches. Top pitch is exposed and excellent.

bluenose 05/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

7 Pitch trad

tmawer 20/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Lead 1,3,5 &7. We backed off Delicatesan, but this saved the day. Done with 5 nuts and slings, but adequate fixed gear so safe.

with chris king
auld al 07/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Ken lindsay ??/2013 AltLd O/S
jones6269 ?/Dec/12 -
Juan Ruiz 07/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Pablo Perea
Stuart Macfarlane 23/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1,3,4,5,7 and Jeanie led pitches 2 & 6.

with Jeanie
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
leemagowan ??/2012 2nd O/S

First big MP with Andy Hogarth, very exposed at top and mental abseil from wire on exposed ridge

1918hasti 14/Nov/11 AltLd
Ash_Johnson ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S

7 Pitches, 315 meters.

antonymcphillips ?/Nov/11 AltLd
pete johnson ?/Feb/09 -
with Paul Donnithorne
Martin Bennett 04/May/08 -
with SF
DafSWMC 14/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Spectacular location. So-so climbing. Christian & Alys 2nd party. Not obvious what happens after pitch 5/6. Took 2PB behind 2nd tree about 10m below ridge. Pitch lengths more like 30m, 30m, 30m, 55m, 25m, 40m, 45m. Descended in dark.

with Melanie
Christian Reynish 14/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
TonyP 12/Dec/07 Lead O/S
with M Green
jamie ward 03/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

1st pitch of El Donde Volar 6a

with Marcus Harvey
LAW 24/Feb/06 2nd O/S
with Chris NG, Mark B
Ramon Marin 15/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Lim
John Brayshaw 17/Mar/04 AltLd O/S
with Chris
Howard J 01/Mar/02 Lead O/S

Also Dave Checkley and Julie Wassell

with John Waterhouse
Hidden ?/Nov/98 AltLd
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High 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
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High 4c
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Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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