UKC

Restricted Access

Climbing is banned on most sectors including Deportivo (sometimes known as Chorreras or Sucina) and Sherpa from 1st january till 30th June due to nesting birds.https://www.valenciaclimb.com/regulations/

315m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
VS. A good route following a strong natural line and with a grand finish. The whole thing can be managed on a single rope although this might make retreat difficult. Start at the groove where the name is scratched.
1) 4+, 45m. The vegetated groove, and its cleaner continuation lead to a tree belay. The groove 12m to the left is a better and cleaner alternative, with no change in the grade.
2) 4, 45m. Traverse diagonally right to a tree and continue past a pair of bolts to a belay on a pair of pegs.
3) 4+, 30m. Move right into a groove with a bush and climb this. At the its top move right up slabs to belay on a huge ledge.
4) 4+, 55m. Scramble up right to a left slanting break (possible belay), and climb this to a long ridge. Follow this to the top of a pillar and a two bolt belay in a corner.
5) 4+, 50m. Move up and left into a groove and left again into another. Up this to an exit on the left to ledge and peg belay.
6) 4+, 45m. Continue up the ridge (pegs) to reach a ledge just below the crest, single peg belay.
7) 3, 45m. Move up right onto the ridge and traverse right to first deep notch in the ridge, and a 3 bolt belay with wire cable. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes , The Big Easys

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mark Eddy 19 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Pared de los Alcoyanos area is NOT affected by current nesting restrictions
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pared de los Alcoyanos area is NOT affected by current nesting restrictions
Ramon Marin 8 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It's more like a walk than a climb. Don't forget your gardening tools
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's more like a walk than a climb. Don't forget your gardening tools

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Voting
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Prats

Grade: 4c ***
(Marin)

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