315m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
VS. A good route following a strong natural line and with a grand finish. The whole thing can be managed on a single rope although this might make retreat difficult. Start at the groove where the name is scratched.
1) 4+, 45m. The vegetated groove, and its cleaner continuation lead to a tree belay. The groove 12m to the left is a better and cleaner alternative, with no change in the grade.
2) 4, 45m. Traverse diagonally right to a tree and continue past a pair of bolts to a belay on a pair of pegs.
3) 4+, 30m. Move right into a groove with a bush and climb this. At the its top move right up slabs to belay on a huge ledge.
4) 4+, 55m. Scramble up right to a left slanting break (possible belay), and climb this to a long ridge. Follow this to the top of a pillar and a two bolt belay in a corner.
5) 4+, 50m. Move up and left into a groove and left again into another. Up this to an exit on the left to ledge and peg belay.
6) 4+, 45m. Continue up the ridge (pegs) to reach a ledge just below the crest, single peg belay.
7) 3, 45m. Move up right onto the ridge and traverse right to first deep notch in the ridge, and a 3 bolt belay with wire cable. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, The Big Easys

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Ramon Marin 8 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It's more like a walk than a climb. Don't forget your gardening tools
βeta?
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βeta: It's more like a walk than a climb. Don't forget your gardening tools
Rob Webb 17 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good route. Overgraded at 5. Much easier decent if, at the notch, you absail off down the right side in 3 abs. You miss the scree altogether then, avoiding the need to take different footware. One ab down to a big ledge on the face (ab rings) another down to the big platform, then another from the single tree on the cliff edge.
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βeta: A good route. Overgraded at 5. Much easier decent if, at the notch, you absail off down the right side in 3 abs. You miss the scree altogether then, avoiding the need to take different footware. One ab down to a big ledge on the face (ab rings) another down to the big platform, then another from the single tree on the cliff edge.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ladempsey 30 Dec, 2018 AltLd Only the last three pitches felt really worthwhile. As others have said the pitch lengths are a little off. The first two were each about 30 m, and the remainder all around approximately 45 m. Lots of pegs on this route and not many bolts. Most of the anchors are okay except for at the top of pitch 6 where there is only a single peg. Backed it up with a nut. It general I think a light rack would be sufficient. Slings definitely useful. We used 60 m halves and abbed off the back in two raps. The first from the wire and the top, and the second about 40 m down where there is more thick wire around a tree. There are some dodgy tat anchors at other points if you are brave enough to use them... nasty section of scree on the way down which then leads directly back to the start of the climb.
Only the last three pitches felt really worthwhile. As others have said the pitch lengths are a little off. The first two were each about 30 m, and the remainder all around approximately 45 m. Lots of pegs on this route and not many bolts. Most of the anchors are okay except for at the top of pitch 6 where there is only a single peg. Backed it up with a nut. It general I think a light rack would be sufficient. Slings definitely useful. We used 60 m halves and abbed off the back in two raps. The first from the wire and the top, and the second about 40 m down where there is more thick wire around a tree. There are some dodgy tat anchors at other points if you are brave enough to use them... nasty section of scree on the way down which then leads directly back to the start of the climb.
ice bank mice elf 30 Dec, 2018 AltLd
Ian Campbell 26 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S Climbed pitch 1, seconded pitch 2 and abbed off due to high winds
Climbed pitch 1, seconded pitch 2 and abbed off due to high winds
Jon Gordon 22 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
Sujan limbu 22 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S
with mills, christen
with mills, christen
rkoelner 5 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Nice mountain adventure. Rock look rather loose in many places. There were maybe two very short sections (or just moves) at almost 5. Easy repels with 2x50m ropes (3 repels). Windy at the top. Lot of scrambling rather than climbing, probably a bit too much. After first two repels (15m + full 50m) walk down to the tree, and repel from there (45m).
with Marcin Wodnicki
Nice mountain adventure. Rock look rather loose in many places. There were maybe two very short sections (or just moves) at almost 5. Easy repels with 2x50m ropes (3 repels). Windy at the top. Lot of scrambling rather than climbing, probably a bit too much. After first two repels (15m + full 50m) walk down to the tree, and repel from there (45m).
with Marcin Wodnicki
SteveSBlake 9 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S A worthwhile adventure, the better climbing is high up after the massive ledge. We only used one of the Rockfax belays low down, and the stated pitch lengths seem off a bit. British VS is a good way of expressing the grade, there is fixed gear, but some of it is spaced and some tatty. Descended down the back in two abs - used a 100m skinny, so had 50m to play with. I had about 10m spare at the end of the first ab and we didn't see an intermediary belay/station on the way down..... Though some seem to have spotted one. The second ab was much shorter. A small path cuts off the scree around the base back to the start. I think around 4 1/2 hours up and down.
A worthwhile adventure, the better climbing is high up after the massive ledge. We only used one of the Rockfax belays low down, and the stated pitch lengths seem off a bit. British VS is a good way of expressing the grade, there is fixed gear, but some of it is spaced and some tatty. Descended down the back in two abs - used a 100m skinny, so had 50m to play with. I had about 10m spare at the end of the first ab and we didn't see an intermediary belay/station on the way down..... Though some seem to have spotted one. The second ab was much shorter. A small path cuts off the scree around the base back to the start. I think around 4 1/2 hours up and down.
Mark Eddy 20 Oct, 2017 AltLd In 6 huge pitches. Stayed in the shade until 1pm. We had an 80m rope so 2 abseils was enough to get to the deck. It's possible to split into 3 abseils if using shorter ropes
with Stig
In 6 huge pitches. Stayed in the shade until 1pm. We had an 80m rope so 2 abseils was enough to get to the deck. It's possible to split into 3 abseils if using shorter ropes
with Stig
Stiga 20 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Mark eddy
with Mark eddy
TMTSZ 17 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S
Hellieg 17 Oct, 2017 2nd
Jim-Roberts-1987 5 Oct, 2017 Lead
with Gemmapan, Tony McPhillips
with Gemmapan, Tony McPhillips
Gemmapan 5 Oct, 2017 2nd
Juan Ruiz 3 Sep, 2017 AltLd Primero en 1º, 3º, 5º y 7º.
with David
Primero en 1º, 3º, 5º y 7º.
with David
Hidden 7 Apr, 2017 AltLd
KittyKat 29 May, 2016 AltLd First pitch is very green but route gets better the higher up you get. Lead P1, 3, 5, 7
with Rocio, Fede
First pitch is very green but route gets better the higher up you get. Lead P1, 3, 5, 7
with Rocio, Fede
Mark Eddy 19 Jan, 2016 Lead Brilliant day out. 7h 30m car to car climbing as a 3 and not rushing. The climbing is reasonable, with a few sections being excellent. But the atmosphere and exposure make this into a very worthwhile route. A fair few old pegs and some bolted belays, but not all and definitely consider this a trad route, take a full rack. Abseil off the back then a fun scree run descent back to the crag base.
with Ann Leese, Kim Jackson
Brilliant day out. 7h 30m car to car climbing as a 3 and not rushing. The climbing is reasonable, with a few sections being excellent. But the atmosphere and exposure make this into a very worthwhile route. A fair few old pegs and some bolted belays, but not all and definitely consider this a trad route, take a full rack. Abseil off the back then a fun scree run descent back to the crag base.
with Ann Leese, Kim Jackson
gaz3212 6 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
Rhyswhitehead1 8 Oct, 2015 2nd 7 pitches, all day climb
7 pitches, all day climb
Hidden 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Mattwc 15 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
ads 7 Mar, 2015 AltLd
Zoomer 26 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S Rockfax pitch lengths are way off. Good route with some route finding needed. Pretty much trad all the way.
with A Student
Rockfax pitch lengths are way off. Good route with some route finding needed. Pretty much trad all the way.
with A Student
Hidden 26 Nov, 2014 2nd
DylanAsena 29 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
bridget143 3 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S ASCENT: Some route finding difficulties as pitch lengths given are mostly too long and it is perfectly possible to do fewer longer pitches here as plenty of belaying opportunities. Ended up doing a harder looser variation higher up but still good although the harder routes in the area appear less vegetated. DESCENT: No problem abseiling off back in 2 abseils with single 70m rope, would have needed a third with a 60m. Much better, if you have double ropes, to abseil back down the west face off shiny bolts and chain which you can find at the same point on ridge, this brings you down to big ledge and avoid the steep scree slope at the back.
with Simen
ASCENT: Some route finding difficulties as pitch lengths given are mostly too long and it is perfectly possible to do fewer longer pitches here as plenty of belaying opportunities. Ended up doing a harder looser variation higher up but still good although the harder routes in the area appear less vegetated. DESCENT: No problem abseiling off back in 2 abseils with single 70m rope, would have needed a third with a 60m. Much better, if you have double ropes, to abseil back down the west face off shiny bolts and chain which you can find at the same point on ridge, this brings you down to big ledge and avoid the steep scree slope at the back.
with Simen
Hidden 28 Dec, 2013 2nd
Freshprintce 4 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hotcake 5 Apr, 2013 AltLd Very good route. 8 pitch Trad (VS). Alt leads but Lead the top two harder pitches. Top pitch is exposed and excellent.
Very good route. 8 pitch Trad (VS). Alt leads but Lead the top two harder pitches. Top pitch is exposed and excellent.
bluenose 5 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S 7 Pitch trad
7 Pitch trad
tmawer 20 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead 1,3,5 &7. We backed off Delicatesan, but this saved the day. Done with 5 nuts and slings, but adequate fixed gear so safe.
with chris king
Lead 1,3,5 &7. We backed off Delicatesan, but this saved the day. Done with 5 nuts and slings, but adequate fixed gear so safe.
with chris king
auld al 7 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
Ken lindsay ??, 2013 AltLd O/S
jones6269 ?Dec, 2012 -
ollienwood1 4 Nov, 2012 -
ollienwood1 2 Nov, 2012 -
Juan Ruiz 7 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Pablo Perea
with Pablo Perea
Stuart Macfarlane 23 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S I led pitches 1,3,4,5,7 and Jeanie led pitches 2 & 6.
with Jeanie
I led pitches 1,3,4,5,7 and Jeanie led pitches 2 & 6.
with Jeanie
Hidden ??, 2012 AltLd
leemagowan ??, 2012 2nd O/S First big MP with Andy Hogarth, very exposed at top and mental abseil from wire on exposed ridge
First big MP with Andy Hogarth, very exposed at top and mental abseil from wire on exposed ridge
1918hasti 14 Nov, 2011 AltLd
Ash_Johnson ?Nov, 2011 Lead O/S 7 Pitches, 315 meters.
7 Pitches, 315 meters.
antonymcphillips ?Nov, 2011 AltLd
pete johnson ?Feb, 2009 -
with Paul Donnithorne
with Paul Donnithorne
Martin Bennett 4 May, 2008 -
with Simno
with Simno
DafSWMC 14 Mar, 2008 Lead O/S Spectacular location. So-so climbing. Christian & Alys 2nd party. Not obvious what happens after pitch 5/6. Took 2PB behind 2nd tree about 10m below ridge. Pitch lengths more like 30m, 30m, 30m, 55m, 25m, 40m, 45m. Descended in dark.
with Melanie
Spectacular location. So-so climbing. Christian & Alys 2nd party. Not obvious what happens after pitch 5/6. Took 2PB behind 2nd tree about 10m below ridge. Pitch lengths more like 30m, 30m, 30m, 55m, 25m, 40m, 45m. Descended in dark.
with Melanie
Christian Reynish 14 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
with DafSWMC
with DafSWMC
TonyP 12 Dec, 2007 Lead O/S
with M Green
with M Green
jamie ward 3 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S 1st pitch of El Donde Volar 6a
with Marcus Harvey
1st pitch of El Donde Volar 6a
with Marcus Harvey
LAW 24 Feb, 2006 2nd O/S
with Chris NG, Mark B
with Chris NG, Mark B
Ramon Marin 15 Apr, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Lim
with Gavin Lim
John Brayshaw 17 Mar, 2004 AltLd O/S
Howard J 1 Mar, 2002 AltLd O/S Also Dave Checkley and Julie Wassell
with John Waterhouse
Also Dave Checkley and Julie Wassell
with John Waterhouse
steve prior ?Nov, 1998 AltLd
with Andy C
with Andy C
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Voting
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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Onsighted
Not Set