35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
To the right is a trench which turns into a chimney above. This fun route takes the easiest line up the chimney and wall.
1) 25m 5a. Climb the right wall of the chimney past a ledge. Step left to a cave and move left again around a rib. Finish up the bay.
2) 10m 4a. Climb the right-hand side of the bay. © Rockfax

FA. Colin Mortlock 31/May/1969

Feedback

UserDateNotes
John2 8 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This has got to be worth HVS. The crux is at least 5A and is not well protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This has got to be worth HVS. The crux is at least 5A and is not well protected.
derekm 9 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A truly scary sandbag of a route! Given VS in the Climbers Club guide but in a wondeful position and with a crux sequence reminiscent of Thorn on Beeston Tor (well I thought so!!!) AND not a lot of gear around the rather airy traverse... Just into uncomfortable territory, although we were tired after a great day doing Bludgeon and other stuff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A truly scary sandbag of a route! Given VS in the Climbers Club guide but in a wondeful position and with a crux sequence reminiscent of Thorn on Beeston Tor (well I thought so!!!) AND not a lot of gear around the rather airy traverse... Just into uncomfortable territory, although we were tired after a great day doing Bludgeon and other stuff.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Remco 24 Aug 2nd
with Edgar
with Edgar
KSP 23 Aug Lead O/S
with Rocky
with Rocky
Rocky 23 Aug 2nd O/S
with KSP
with KSP
Hidden 27 Jul AltLd
takaczapka 27 Jul Lead O/S
with JerDon
with JerDon
williap 5 May Lead O/S further left than i thought! a tough little warm up today
further left than i thought! a tough little warm up today
Heather Osborne 4 May 2nd rpt
Hidden 4 May Lead dog
George Killaspy 4 May 2nd rpt
with Army Jon
with Army Jon
myrddinmuse 4 May Lead O/S An airy start, and a difficult crux for the grade. Placed good gear from the solid hand jams at the horizontal break, so didn't feel run out like some said.
with Joe Dinn, Heather Osborne
An airy start, and a difficult crux for the grade. Placed good gear from the solid hand jams at the horizontal break, so didn't feel run out like some said.
with Joe Dinn, Heather Osborne
Tradical 4 May 2nd O/S
N0tBiggieSmalls 22 Apr Lead O/S So good, feels very adventurous as you climb on thin holds (but good feet) over the crevice. Traversing right and then up from my last piece of gear at the ledge was probably the runout of my life. The traverse under the cave finishing with bold moves over the bulge was also very enjoyable. Great route.
So good, feels very adventurous as you climb on thin holds (but good feet) over the crevice. Traversing right and then up from my last piece of gear at the ledge was probably the runout of my life. The traverse under the cave finishing with bold moves over the bulge was also very enjoyable. Great route.
jflloyd 21 Apr Lead O/S
gtaylor997 21 Apr 2nd O/S Definitely a sandbag, climbing is fairly steady (if a little perplexing) but definitely harder than the grade suggests
with jflloyd
Definitely a sandbag, climbing is fairly steady (if a little perplexing) but definitely harder than the grade suggests
with jflloyd
Heather Osborne 20 Apr Lead O/S Really cool!
Really cool!
M_Robinson 20 Apr 2nd O/S
mattgrange 20 Apr 2nd Fairly frightening to second or lead, with some very tricky moves along the traverse including an 'on-off' overhead balance-y reach.
with Paul Sagar
Fairly frightening to second or lead, with some very tricky moves along the traverse including an 'on-off' overhead balance-y reach.
with Paul Sagar
Paul Sagar 19 Apr Lead O/S Gets HVS 4C in the CC guide. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. The first 7-8 meters is a solo on greased up holds which don't get the sun until evening. Then there's a committing traverse, followed by a 5b move to gain the upper part of the pillar. E1 in my book. Ran it together as one pitch because I could. Was pleased to get it, as it's a flipping scary sandbag.
Gets HVS 4C in the CC guide. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. The first 7-8 meters is a solo on greased up holds which don't get the sun until evening. Then there's a committing traverse, followed by a 5b move to gain the upper part of the pillar. E1 in my book. Ran it together as one pitch because I could. Was pleased to get it, as it's a flipping scary sandbag.
Dave Rumney 13 May, 2018 2nd
pauldrew 13 May, 2018 Lead O/S Very good route - lots of atmosphere with sea crashing in slot below.
Very good route - lots of atmosphere with sea crashing in slot below.
ManuelS 6 May, 2018 2nd Seemed very hard. Must have been off route.
Seemed very hard. Must have been off route.
chris wyatt 22 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S had a quick look at the topo then followed my nose. My version of the route went up the start of pleasure dome avoiding the slab. To make us for it I traversed right to the superbly positioned pillar at the top (instead of scrambling up in the bay) 1 big and beautiful pitch
with Silv, Mike Barclay
had a quick look at the topo then followed my nose. My version of the route went up the start of pleasure dome avoiding the slab. To make us for it I traversed right to the superbly positioned pillar at the top (instead of scrambling up in the bay) 1 big and beautiful pitch
with Silv, Mike Barclay
JamesEG 14 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S
with Stuart
with Stuart
Exocet 5 Aug, 2017 2nd Very scary to belay. You have to be tight on the belay otherwise if your leader comes off you will be pulled off the ledge over the bottomless zawn and would find it impossible to get back on to the belay or climb up the blank wall you would end up on. The start looks very intimidating to second but is easier than it looks - good friction on the rough right hand wall and holds on the left wall to help you bridge up to the break where the first gear goes. Good climb to second though - fun though the final moves up the bulge to the belay are way harder than 4c. (And given VS 4b in the old single volume guidebook.
Very scary to belay. You have to be tight on the belay otherwise if your leader comes off you will be pulled off the ledge over the bottomless zawn and would find it impossible to get back on to the belay or climb up the blank wall you would end up on. The start looks very intimidating to second but is easier than it looks - good friction on the rough right hand wall and holds on the left wall to help you bridge up to the break where the first gear goes. Good climb to second though - fun though the final moves up the bulge to the belay are way harder than 4c. (And given VS 4b in the old single volume guidebook.
Pete_Frost 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S P1 is really good, but with a run-out section on the slab which could be nasty in the event of a slip. P2 is just a scramble. Led P2
P1 is really good, but with a run-out section on the slab which could be nasty in the event of a slip. P2 is just a scramble. Led P2
catrin289 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd 1st pitch
with Pete Frost
1st pitch
with Pete Frost
msoldn ??, 2017 Lead O/S Dropped an entire rack of large nuts into the zawn!
with Dan
Dropped an entire rack of large nuts into the zawn!
with Dan
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Gavinwm 27 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with Chris
with Chris
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
minaturechris 27 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Very interesting route finding on this one. Committing from the off and kept me interested throughout!
with Gavinwm
Very interesting route finding on this one. Committing from the off and kept me interested throughout!
with Gavinwm
Bruise Apprentice 6 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S First pitch has no meaningful gear until you're at the horizontal break.
First pitch has no meaningful gear until you're at the horizontal break.
garywong 6 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt Led this so badly it felt like I'd dogged it! The step over the zawn followed by a greasy, protectionless lower wall didn't help my head.
Led this so badly it felt like I'd dogged it! The step over the zawn followed by a greasy, protectionless lower wall didn't help my head.
joem 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd G/U tried to lead this first, got stopped by the last hard moves of the 1st pitch surely at least 5b unless both me and Adam missed something. managed on second and led the second easy pitch.
with Adam
tried to lead this first, got stopped by the last hard moves of the 1st pitch surely at least 5b unless both me and Adam missed something. managed on second and led the second easy pitch.
with Adam
George Killaspy 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Alex
with Alex
ADConway 31 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Exciting traverse from the corner and nice slappy moves up the pillar!
with Wrekin MC
Exciting traverse from the corner and nice slappy moves up the pillar!
with Wrekin MC
ben.phillips 25 May, 2015 Lead O/S Solid 5a to get over the bulge and the first traverse deserves E1 (or was I missing something)
Solid 5a to get over the bulge and the first traverse deserves E1 (or was I missing something)
Hidden 25 May, 2015 2nd O/S
fizzychewitt 9 May, 2015 Lead dog Stayed too high at the end of the traverse and had to have a rope lowered down as the way I went was steep, blank and very hard. Good, 'thrilling' climb up to that point. I think it should be 5a for the initial moves on the traverse.
with Phil, Jayney D
Stayed too high at the end of the traverse and had to have a rope lowered down as the way I went was steep, blank and very hard. Good, 'thrilling' climb up to that point. I think it should be 5a for the initial moves on the traverse.
with Phil, Jayney D
Hidden ??, 2015 2nd
louby 23 Aug, 2014 2nd
with chris_B
with chris_B
strudles 23 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
with Scott Bradshaw
with Scott Bradshaw
chris_B 23 Aug, 2014 Lead
with louby
with louby
GDS 14 Jun, 2014 2nd
with harry
with harry
owain86 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
leglesslizard ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
pete johnson ?Aug, 2013 -
with Lun
with Lun
Hidden 29 Jun, 2013 2nd
Bry 5 May, 2013 2nd β
Hidden 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Aug, 2012 Lead dnf
Palindrome ?Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
VPJB 28 Jul, 2012 Lead
Giles Davis 28 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S Should be HVS 5a. Crux must have shed a hold as my mate (led it) and I thought the moves were harder than any on Cool for Cats. Decent route though.
with VPJB
Should be HVS 5a. Crux must have shed a hold as my mate (led it) and I thought the moves were harder than any on Cool for Cats. Decent route though.
with VPJB
david wands 25 Jul, 2012 2nd
sleeplessjb 25 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 2 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Nice climbing once it had dried off. Bold but easy (though slightly greasy) climbing to start and then a well-protected crux. Definitely 5a rather than 4c on the first pitch.
with SCC
Nice climbing once it had dried off. Bold but easy (though slightly greasy) climbing to start and then a well-protected crux. Definitely 5a rather than 4c on the first pitch.
with SCC
Hidden 2 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
paul horabin 20 May, 2012 Lead
steven 20 May, 2012 2nd
with Paul Horabin, Ade
with Paul Horabin, Ade
Julie Carroll 6 Apr, 2012 2nd
with Tristan Graham
with Tristan Graham
turdburglar ??, 2012 -
turdburglar ??, 2012 -
Kirill 27 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Excellent! 3 stars!
Excellent! 3 stars!
Paul Baxter 27 Aug, 2011 2nd
with Kirill
with Kirill
mountain.martin 28 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Chickend out of the first bold wall and avoided this by starting near the start of pleasure dome. Steep and exciting with good protection from the cave on. The moves from where the good holds run out seemed solid 5a.
Chickend out of the first bold wall and avoided this by starting near the start of pleasure dome. Steep and exciting with good protection from the cave on. The moves from where the good holds run out seemed solid 5a.
Edd Reed 28 Apr, 2011 2nd interesting
with Martin Allen
interesting
with Martin Allen
Ben1983 2 May, 2010 Lead β
lyneux 1 May, 2010 2nd O/S Ran both pitches together. Gave two nuts as an offering to the sea gods whilst crossing the zawn.
with Chris Bull
Ran both pitches together. Gave two nuts as an offering to the sea gods whilst crossing the zawn.
with Chris Bull
katherinesydney 5 Apr, 2010 2nd dog ooh! a good adventure. got soaked by a massive wave which turned my chalk to slime and made the damp balancy start over the bottomless zawn interesting. loads of variety of moves. took a rest after the left traverse where it got steep and i missed a finger jam on first attempt. run out start and lots of exposure for gary!
with gary burgess
ooh! a good adventure. got soaked by a massive wave which turned my chalk to slime and made the damp balancy start over the bottomless zawn interesting. loads of variety of moves. took a rest after the left traverse where it got steep and i missed a finger jam on first attempt. run out start and lots of exposure for gary!
with gary burgess
Ed morris 28 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S really varied. Scary climbing up the unprotectable slab start
with mark dwyer
really varied. Scary climbing up the unprotectable slab start
with mark dwyer
wild_nomad 24 May, 2009 2nd Lots of variety on this multi-pith. Crux is getting up over the slight bulge at the end of the second traverse to get to the first stance. Just this move makes it a 5a in my opinion. I had to hold onto a quick draw at this point so I didn't complete the route properly. Very enjoyable and challenging!
with Nick
Lots of variety on this multi-pith. Crux is getting up over the slight bulge at the end of the second traverse to get to the first stance. Just this move makes it a 5a in my opinion. I had to hold onto a quick draw at this point so I didn't complete the route properly. Very enjoyable and challenging!
with Nick
JD19081986 23 May, 2009 2nd O/S
with Gary Wong
with Gary Wong
garywong 23 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Jayne Jackson
with Jayne Jackson
petecallaghan 3 May, 2009 Lead O/S Character forming
Character forming
Different Steve ?May, 2009 Lead O/S
Paz 11 Apr, 2009 Lead dnf Disastrous warm up. I didn't back off the VS, I backed off, off route of the VS. Like a total muppet I didn't realise the route presumably turns the arete and traverses really quite far left, and tried in vain to go up a groove instead (in which jugs were not forthcoming).
with TS2,PS
Disastrous warm up. I didn't back off the VS, I backed off, off route of the VS. Like a total muppet I didn't realise the route presumably turns the arete and traverses really quite far left, and tried in vain to go up a groove instead (in which jugs were not forthcoming).
with TS2,PS
steve.warrington 6 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S 2nd pitch
2nd pitch
matt.woodfield 6 Nov, 2008 AltLd
dannyboy83 14 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
with Mike Soldner
with Mike Soldner
Mark D 7 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ant
with Ant
ASchwirtz 7 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
with Mark (UBMC)
with Mark (UBMC)
Docent 7 Oct, 2007 2nd
with stecu
with stecu
Tim W 20 May, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2007 2nd
Hidden ?Apr, 2007 AltLd
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure ??, 2007 -
Hidden 19 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 2 Jul, 2006 2nd O/S
with martina
with martina
david morse ?Apr, 2006 Lead dog
with ben lea
with ben lea
Hidden ?Apr, 2006 2nd O/S
Darrell Read 21 May, 2005 AltLd Led second pitch which was easy. First pitch under graded.
Led second pitch which was easy. First pitch under graded.
Mihkel 30 Jan, 2005 Lead dnf Very damp. The 'step' over the trench felt intimidating. In retrospect, I was way off route. I started up a groove (actually part of a nearby E3), began to find it pretty hard and opted to jump back into space as I knew I had a bomber hex metres below me and wall was overhanging. Then backed off. A fairly engaging experience.
with Jack Vanstone
Very damp. The 'step' over the trench felt intimidating. In retrospect, I was way off route. I started up a groove (actually part of a nearby E3), began to find it pretty hard and opted to jump back into space as I knew I had a bomber hex metres below me and wall was overhanging. Then backed off. A fairly engaging experience.
with Jack Vanstone
Smelly Fox ?Aug, 2004 2nd
with Rob Clifton
with Rob Clifton
Hidden 12 Apr, 2004 Lead
Stone Muppet ??, 2002 -
Hidden 25 Jun, 2000 AltLd
Hidden 25 Jun, 2000 2nd
Si Clapham ??, 1998 -
Marti999 ??, 1996 Lead
Hidden ?Sep, 1992 AltLd
Alan Scowcroft 22 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ??, 1990 -
Brian Wilderspin 2 May, 1981 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 21 Apr, 1981 Lead
with Bob Knapton
with Bob Knapton
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 33
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set