35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
To the right is a trench which turns into a chimney above. This fun route takes the easiest line up the chimney and wall.
1) 25m 5a. Climb the right wall of the chimney past a ledge. Step left to a cave and move left again around a rib. Finish up the bay.
2) 10m 4a. Climb the right-hand side of the bay. © Rockfax

FA. Colin Mortlock 31/May/1969

Exocet 05/Aug 2nd

Very scary to belay. You have to be tight on the belay otherwise if your leader comes off you will be pulled off the ledge over the bottomless zawn and would find it impossible to get back on to the belay or climb up the blank wall you would end up on. The start looks very intimidating to second but is easier than it looks - good friction on the rough right hand wall and holds on the left wall to help you bridge up to the break where the first gear goes. Good climb to second though - fun though the final moves up the bulge to the belay are way harder than 4c. (And given VS 4b in the old single volume guidebook.

Pete_Frost 15/Apr AltLd O/S

P1 is really good, but with a run-out section on the slab which could be nasty in the event of a slip. P2 is just a scramble. Led P2

with Catrin
catrin289 15/Apr AltLd

1st pitch

with Pete Frost
Hidden 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Gavinwm 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Chris
Hidden 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
minaturechris 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Very interesting route finding on this one. Committing from the off and kept me interested throughout!

with Gavinwm
mariannekhoo 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S

First pitch has no meaningful gear until you're at the horizontal break.

with Gary Wong
garywong 06/Aug/16 Lead rpt

Led this so badly it felt like I'd dogged it! The step over the zawn followed by a greasy, protectionless lower wall didn't help my head.

joem 30/Jul/16 AltLd G/U

tried to lead this first, got stopped by the last hard moves of the 1st pitch surely at least 5b unless both me and Adam missed something. managed on second and led the second easy pitch.

with Adam
George Killaspy 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Alex
ADConway 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Exciting traverse from the corner and nice slappy moves up the pillar!

with Wrekin MC
ben.phillips 25/May/15 Lead O/S

Solid 5a to get over the bulge and the first traverse deserves E1 (or was I missing something)

MichaelGallimore 25/May/15 2nd O/S

First section was well run out! Probably the most scared I've ever been belaying. The traverse was also way harder than 4c. Closer to 5b. Great route though, and crossing some stunning ground. Probably best to run the two pitches together as the second pitch was a bit boring.

with Ben Philips
fizzychewitt 09/May/15 Lead dog

Stayed too high at the end of the traverse and had to have a rope lowered down as the way I went was steep, blank and very hard. Good, 'thrilling' climb up to that point. I think it should be 5a for the initial moves on the traverse.

with Phil, Jayne
louby 23/Aug/14 2nd
strudles 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Scott Bradshaw
chris_B 23/Aug/14 Lead
GDS 14/Jun/14 2nd
with harry
owain86 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
leglesslizard ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Bry 05/May/13 2nd β
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead dnf
Palindrome ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Giles Davis 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Should be HVS 5a. Crux must have shed a hold as my mate (led it) and I thought the moves were harder than any on Cool for Cats. Decent route though.

sleeplessjb 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Nice climbing once it had dried off. Bold but easy (though slightly greasy) climbing to start and then a well-protected crux. Definitely 5a rather than 4c on the first pitch.

with Si
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
paul horabin 20/May/12 Lead
steven 20/May/12 2nd
with Paul Horabin, Ade
Julie Carroll 06/Apr/12 2nd
with Tristan Graham
turdburglar ??/2012 -
turdburglar ??/2012 -
Kirill 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Excellent! 3 stars!

Paul Baxter 27/Aug/11 2nd
with Kirill
mountain.martin 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Chickend out of the first bold wall and avoided this by starting near the start of pleasure dome. Steep and exciting with good protection from the cave on. The moves from where the good holds run out seemed solid 5a.

Edd Reed 28/Apr/11 2nd


with Martin Allen
Ben1983 02/May/10 Lead β
lyneux 01/May/10 2nd O/S

Ran both pitches together. Gave two nuts as an offering to the sea gods whilst crossing the zawn.

with Chris Bull
katherinesydney 05/Apr/10 2nd dog

ooh! a good adventure. got soaked by a massive wave which turned my chalk to slime and made the damp balancy start over the bottomless zawn interesting. loads of variety of moves. took a rest after the left traverse where it got steep and i missed a finger jam on first attempt. run out start and lots of exposure for gary!

with gary burgess
Ed morris 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S

really varied. Scary climbing up the unprotectable slab start

with mark dwyer
wild_nomad 24/May/09 2nd

Lots of variety on this multi-pith. Crux is getting up over the slight bulge at the end of the second traverse to get to the first stance. Just this move makes it a 5a in my opinion. I had to hold onto a quick draw at this point so I didn't complete the route properly. Very enjoyable and challenging!

with Nick
JD19081986 23/May/09 2nd O/S
with Gary Wong
garywong 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Jayne Jackson
petecallaghan 03/May/09 Lead O/S

Character forming

Different Steve ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Paz 11/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Disastrous warm up. I didn't back off the VS, I backed off, off route of the VS. Like a total muppet I didn't realise the route presumably turns the arete and traverses really quite far left, and tried in vain to go up a groove instead (in which jugs were not forthcoming).

with TS2,PS
steve.warrington 06/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

matt.woodfield 06/Nov/08 AltLd
dannyboy83 14/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Mike Soldner
Mark D 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ant
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Mark (UBMC)
Docent 07/Oct/07 2nd
with stecu
Tim W 20/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/07 AltLd
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 Lead O/S
drysori ??/2007 -
Hidden 19/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 02/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with martina
david morse ?/Apr/06 Lead dog
with ben lea
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Darrell Read 21/May/05 AltLd

Led second pitch which was easy. First pitch under graded.

Hidden 30/Jan/05 Lead dnf
Smelly Fox ?/Aug/04 2nd
with Rob Clifton
Hidden 12/Apr/04 Lead
Stone Muppet ??/2002 -
Hidden 25/Jun/00 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/00 2nd
Si Clapham ??/1998 -
Marti999 ??/1996 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/92 AltLd
Tim Sparrow ??/1990 -
Dave Musgrove 21/Apr/81 Lead
with Bob Knapton
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 28
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set