70m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good trip which gains a ledge below the arete right of the big chimney by a long traverse. Considering the grade, a rope is advisable for this first pitch.
1) 40m. Descend from the end of the disappearing rock platform to and pick the easiest line leftwards, above the high tide line, to a ledge on the arete.
2) 30m. Climb left from the belay then move up onto the wall. Either move left into the corner and climb it or, better, climb the wall to the right of the corner. © Rockfax

FA. C.Mortlock 31/May/1969

Ticklists: Must-do routes.


ClimberDateStyle
CathS 28/May AltLd O/S

Moved together on the 1st traverse pitch with me leading the way (or trying to...). Finding the right line was more difficult than I remembered from when we did Stennis Arete . Lost my head and completely bottled out of leading the second pitch as the start looked hard (and damp), and very intimidating over the crashing sea, with no immediate way of protecting it. Visions of plummeting into the sea or smacking into the corner. So Dave to the rescue again... Turned out that after a couple of tricky moves, it quickly eases off, and the pitch is more like an easy VDiff than a Severe, with massive holds all over the place. Some problems with the rope snagging on the spikey rocks.

with Dave Clark
Hidden 28/May AltLd O/S
John Geoffrey 26/May AltLd O/S
with Fiona
FDixon 26/May AltLd O/S
MD 29/Apr AltLd O/S
with Jo
Happy Wanderer 29/Apr AltLd
with Mike D
ray2k 17/Apr 2nd

Soloed first pitch.

Mark Pickrell 14/Apr Lead O/S
with Dick
Hidden 14/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Apr AltLd
Hidden 02/Apr AltLd O/S
ianburton 02/Jan Lead O/S
chitty 12/Nov/16 -
tebs 22/Oct/16 AltLd
with Tim
HimTiggins 22/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Bart
Steve Webster 27/Aug/16 AltLd
Dazluke2000 27/Aug/16 Lead
Adrian Daniels 27/Aug/16 AltLd
ads 07/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead rpt
Steve Clegg 28/May/16 2nd
with Zoe
theotherpetehill 24/Apr/16 2nd
with Georgina Brooke
Georgina Brooke 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Got intimidated on Stennis arete as was blind, led this instead...

steve_gibbs 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with John Harris
john. e.r 30/Aug/15 Lead
with rx
Clegm 27/Aug/15 Lead
MarkRoe 11/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Even with two ropes and loads of long extenders whenever necessary, it's still damn hard to properly protect the first pitch for your second without getting a stack of rope drag. I'd recommend either soloing it or doing it in two. The second pitch however is totally first rate!

with Ann Marie Raikes
AnnMarie3 ?/Aug/15 AltLd
with MarkRoe
Hidden 07/Jun/15 AltLd
TobyA 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Was aiming to do Stennis Arete but missed the crack up the steep headwall, ended up finishing on this instead.

with Tom R
Mr. K 25/May/15 Lead O/S
FlamehairedFrodo 25/May/15 2nd
dvincen6 16/May/15 AltLd
with Lucy
Andrew will wilson ??/2015 -
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead
cdpuk 06/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Last one of the day. Lucy didn't like the look of the initial awkward step so we bailed and went to soak up what was left of the sun. Will return. First pitch probably needs splitting to reduce drag.

Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Roch 03/Aug/14 AltLd

Think we were a bit high on the traverse, but not high enough for maelstrom chimney. A quick abseil got us on route. Second pitch was awesome.

with Rob Slack
Hidden 27/Jun/14 Lead O/S
turnertactics 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Overshot the belay ledge and had to down climb. Pleasant easy climbing. Doable in one pitch with 60m ropes.

ads 31/May/14 AltLd
with Julie
Benjaminblanc ??/2014 -

Great climbing but I went too high on P1 and didn't protect well for the seconds. Would love to repeat.

Stuart William 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Ben belayed part way through the 1st pitch because of drag so I led the second half of the 1st pitch along with the 2nd pitch. Avoided the bank holiday crowds on the belay ledge since no-one else seemed to like the look of the start of the 2nd pitch and all decided to stick to various variations of Maelstrom Chimney.

with Ben F
JP78 25/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
church465 06/May/13 2nd O/S
erica 05/May/13 2nd
with John
John Brayshaw 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable expedition. Did the variation on the wall right of the chimney.

with Erica
riddle 04/May/13 AltLd

Lead P1, rope drag nightmare.

with Derek
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
djelkin1992 22/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Nexonen 10/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Anne
Palindrome ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
luke glaister 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

What an first class route. as good as any sev ive done. Might even be hs just for the rough sea we had... great experance.

casey johns 14/Jul/12 2nd O/S

great belaying position. great climb great day

Hidden 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
AMJ098 07/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Lovely route - great views

Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Kirill 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Charles Mason, Chris Donica
Hedley 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Doug Flute
canis cibo 29/Aug/11 AltLd

Followed hedley on the traverse, lead pitch 2

with hedley
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
mariannekhoo 26/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Tracey led P1, with lots of rope drag (unavoidable). I led P2. Interesting move to get off the arete and onto the slab for P2, should have been given a grade.

Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Stanley 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Cragking
Stanners 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

At least it only took 3 hours! Rope getting court on rock left martin with 15m of slack and some other stuff went wrong. If your as retarded as us at multi-pitch climbing where you cant see the leader, just DWS the first pitch at high tide. 2nd pitch was great fun but more like VD with that amount of gear and jugs.

with Martin Stanfield
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 AltLd
Lev 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Adam Coles ?/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Adam Coles 23/Jan/11 2nd
with ben1987
ben1987 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Wil.Hooke 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Leelogs 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with SCC
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with R.Horler
erinbastian 27/Jun/10 Lead
with jacob phillips
Stepanek 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

sucky traverse, but great chimney

with Louise Cowie
cjohn62 12/Jun/10 AltLd
with martin
martinp 12/Jun/10 2nd
with JohnC
Jess Christley 01/May/10 AltLd
with Alys Rook
Rob84 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with Lou & Aled
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Bex_M 29/Aug/09 Lead dnf
with Astrid Saxby
Ed morris 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Dickon
Nigel R Lewis 25/Jul/09 AltLd
with Huw Rees
nic42 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Jack
Hidden 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
Cardi 26/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

What a gem! Traverse was exposed and atmospheric, (not sure the guidebook mentions this fully!) top pitch was in a fantastic position. Blue skies and crashing waves. Fantastic. Think me may have done a bit of Maelstrom Chimney at the top

with Ed H
Hidden 27/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Si ?/May/06 Lead

Uni trip

gareth r ?/Mar/06 -
with Martin
Geoffers ?/Oct/05 2nd O/S
with Tim
timreynolds 18/Sep/05 Lead
Hidden 01/May/05 Lead O/S
babymoac 28/Aug/04 AltLd
with Natasha Greer
victim of mathematics 05/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead
Glenn Sutcliffe 19/Apr/92 -
with keefe
keefe 19/Apr/92 -
Hidden 29/Apr/89 Solo
hazeysunshine ?/Jun/86 AltLd O/S
with Phil, Jane
jon 01/Feb/81 Solo
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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set