70m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good trip which gains a ledge below the arete right of the big chimney by a long traverse. Considering the grade, a rope is advisable for this first pitch.
1) 40m. Descend from the end of the disappearing rock platform to and pick the easiest line leftwards, above the high tide line, to a ledge on the arete.
2) 30m. Climb left from the belay then move up onto the wall. Either move left into the corner and climb it or, better, climb the wall to the right of the corner. © Rockfax

FA. C.Mortlock 31/May/1969

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Must-do routes, Beginners Pembroke

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Montecore 4 Aug AltLd rpt P1 this time. Avoiding rope drag a nightmare, had to go back and extend or move gear in one section at least five times. Maybe I should have gone lower sooner. Mike planned to do Stennis Arete for P2 but the start was wet and he didn't like the look of the end so went up the wall right of the corner
with Mike Burnett
P1 this time. Avoiding rope drag a nightmare, had to go back and extend or move gear in one section at least five times. Maybe I should have gone lower sooner. Mike planned to do Stennis Arete for P2 but the start was wet and he didn't like the look of the end so went up the wall right of the corner
with Mike Burnett
Montecore 22 Jul AltLd O/S Led P2. Wow, what a corker of a route.
Led P2. Wow, what a corker of a route.
John Brayshaw 21 Jul AltLd rpt
geoff_blackman 20 Jul 2nd O/S
with AMC
with AMC
CasualLime 7 Jul Lead O/S First pitch is an absolute ballache in the rope drag department. Don’t put a lot of gear in, extend the bits you do place. Plenty of good holds to run it out. Second pitch rescued my foul mood after the first pitch.
with Alex
First pitch is an absolute ballache in the rope drag department. Don’t put a lot of gear in, extend the bits you do place. Plenty of good holds to run it out. Second pitch rescued my foul mood after the first pitch.
with Alex
cpoad 22 Jun 2nd O/S Just the first traverse pitch
Just the first traverse pitch
paulerussell 22 Jun AltLd On the first pitch there is a lot of rope drag and you can't see or hear your belayer, if I do it again, I'll split it in two.
with cpoad
On the first pitch there is a lot of rope drag and you can't see or hear your belayer, if I do it again, I'll split it in two.
with cpoad
RiPomc 22 Jun 2nd
with Steve Grey
with Steve Grey
Johnathan 6 May 2nd rpt
jobangles 20 Apr Lead O/S
with Ladislav
with Ladislav
Hidden ?Apr AltLd O/S
Kimberley Maiyh 9 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
with dutchman
with dutchman
ProtonSL 27 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
with Gemma
with Gemma
Max Streeton 24 Aug, 2018 Lead G/U Soloed approach (pitch 1).then climbed as rain started.
with Norman wright
Soloed approach (pitch 1).then climbed as rain started.
with Norman wright
Johnathan 7 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Johnathan 7 May, 2018 Lead rpt
nickstephens 17 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Completely messed up the route I was supposed to be doing. Started too low coming up walk on the wild side: I blame the management team who had the guide book. Despite being wet and wrong, a great little climb.
with leelagetsbulliedintoclimbing, Chris Spencer
Completely messed up the route I was supposed to be doing. Started too low coming up walk on the wild side: I blame the management team who had the guide book. Despite being wet and wrong, a great little climb.
with leelagetsbulliedintoclimbing, Chris Spencer
CmSpencer 17 Sep, 2017 2nd
Simon Caldwell 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Fantastic stuff. Bold and tricky start to the second pitch, HS 4a?
with Lemming
Fantastic stuff. Bold and tricky start to the second pitch, HS 4a?
with Lemming
peakschris 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Led traverse
with Roger PCC
Led traverse
with Roger PCC
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
CathS 28 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Moved together on the 1st traverse pitch with me leading the way (or trying to...). Finding the right line was more difficult than I remembered from when we did Stennis Arete . Lost my head and completely bottled out of leading the second pitch as the start looked hard (and damp), and very intimidating over the crashing sea, with no immediate way of protecting it. Visions of plummeting into the sea or smacking into the corner. So Dave to the rescue again... Turned out that after a couple of tricky moves, it quickly eases off, and the pitch is more like an easy VDiff than a Severe, with massive holds all over the place. Some problems with the rope snagging on the spikey rocks.
with Dave Clark
Moved together on the 1st traverse pitch with me leading the way (or trying to...). Finding the right line was more difficult than I remembered from when we did Stennis Arete . Lost my head and completely bottled out of leading the second pitch as the start looked hard (and damp), and very intimidating over the crashing sea, with no immediate way of protecting it. Visions of plummeting into the sea or smacking into the corner. So Dave to the rescue again... Turned out that after a couple of tricky moves, it quickly eases off, and the pitch is more like an easy VDiff than a Severe, with massive holds all over the place. Some problems with the rope snagging on the spikey rocks.
with Dave Clark
Hidden 28 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
John Geoffrey 26 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
with FDixon
with FDixon
FDixon 26 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Cuillin Calling 12 May, 2017 Lead
MD 29 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Happy Wanderer 29 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with MD
with MD
ray2k 17 Apr, 2017 2nd Soloed first pitch.
Soloed first pitch.
Hidden 14 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 2 Apr, 2017 AltLd
ninjawil 2 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
ianburton 2 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S
chitty 12 Nov, 2016 -
Hidden 22 Oct, 2016 AltLd
HimTiggins 22 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
with tebs
with tebs
Steve Webster 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Dazluke2000 27 Aug, 2016 Lead
Adrian Daniels 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd
ads 7 Aug, 2016 Lead
Hidden 28 May, 2016 Lead rpt
Steve Clegg 28 May, 2016 2nd
with Zoe
with Zoe
theotherpetehill 24 Apr, 2016 2nd
with Georgina Brooke
with Georgina Brooke
Georgina Brooke 24 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Got intimidated on Stennis arete as was blind, led this instead...
Got intimidated on Stennis arete as was blind, led this instead...
steve_gibbs 13 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with John Harris
with John Harris
Hidden ??, 2016 2nd
john. e.r 30 Aug, 2015 Lead
with rx
with rx
Clegm 27 Aug, 2015 Lead
MarkRoe 11 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Even with two ropes and loads of long extenders whenever necessary, it's still damn hard to properly protect the first pitch for your second without getting a stack of rope drag. I'd recommend either soloing it or doing it in two. The second pitch however is totally first rate!
with Ann Marie Raikes
Even with two ropes and loads of long extenders whenever necessary, it's still damn hard to properly protect the first pitch for your second without getting a stack of rope drag. I'd recommend either soloing it or doing it in two. The second pitch however is totally first rate!
with Ann Marie Raikes
AnnMarie3 ?Aug, 2015 AltLd
with MarkRoe
with MarkRoe
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 AltLd
TobyA 6 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Was aiming to do Stennis Arete but missed the crack up the steep headwall, ended up finishing on this instead.
with Tom R
Was aiming to do Stennis Arete but missed the crack up the steep headwall, ended up finishing on this instead.
with Tom R
Mr. K 25 May, 2015 Lead O/S
FlamehairedFrodo 25 May, 2015 2nd
with Mr. K
with Mr. K
Darren Vincent 16 May, 2015 AltLd
with Lucy
with Lucy
Willythegreat ??, 2015 -
Hidden 27 Sep, 2014 Lead
cdpuk 6 Sep, 2014 Lead dnf Last one of the day. Lucy didn't like the look of the initial awkward step so we bailed and went to soak up what was left of the sun. Will return. First pitch probably needs splitting to reduce drag.
with KLucy
Last one of the day. Lucy didn't like the look of the initial awkward step so we bailed and went to soak up what was left of the sun. Will return. First pitch probably needs splitting to reduce drag.
with KLucy
Hidden 23 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Roch 3 Aug, 2014 AltLd Think we were a bit high on the traverse, but not high enough for maelstrom chimney. A quick abseil got us on route. Second pitch was awesome.
with Rob Slack
Think we were a bit high on the traverse, but not high enough for maelstrom chimney. A quick abseil got us on route. Second pitch was awesome.
with Rob Slack
Hidden 27 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
turnertactics 31 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Overshot the belay ledge and had to down climb. Pleasant easy climbing. Doable in one pitch with 60m ropes.
Overshot the belay ledge and had to down climb. Pleasant easy climbing. Doable in one pitch with 60m ropes.
ads 31 May, 2014 AltLd
with Julie
with Julie
Benjaminblanc ??, 2014 - Great climbing but I went too high on P1 and didn't protect well for the seconds. Would love to repeat.
Great climbing but I went too high on P1 and didn't protect well for the seconds. Would love to repeat.
Stuart William 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Ben belayed part way through the 1st pitch because of drag so I led the second half of the 1st pitch along with the 2nd pitch. Avoided the bank holiday crowds on the belay ledge since no-one else seemed to like the look of the start of the 2nd pitch and all decided to stick to various variations of Maelstrom Chimney.
with Ben F
Ben belayed part way through the 1st pitch because of drag so I led the second half of the 1st pitch along with the 2nd pitch. Avoided the bank holiday crowds on the belay ledge since no-one else seemed to like the look of the start of the 2nd pitch and all decided to stick to various variations of Maelstrom Chimney.
with Ben F
JP78 25 Aug, 2013 Lead
Hidden 25 Aug, 2013 2nd
Hidden 25 Aug, 2013 Lead
Maia 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Fran 1, me 2
with FranC
Fran 1, me 2
with FranC
Hidden 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
church465 6 May, 2013 2nd O/S
erica 5 May, 2013 2nd
John Brayshaw 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S Very enjoyable expedition. Did the variation on the wall right of the chimney.
with erica
Very enjoyable expedition. Did the variation on the wall right of the chimney.
with erica
riddle 4 May, 2013 AltLd Lead P1, rope drag nightmare.
with Derek
Lead P1, rope drag nightmare.
with Derek
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead O/S
scott titt ??, 2013 -
djelkin1992 22 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Nexonen 10 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
with Anne
with Anne
Palindrome ?Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
luke glaister 15 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S What an first class route. as good as any sev ive done. Might even be hs just for the rough sea we had... great experance.
What an first class route. as good as any sev ive done. Might even be hs just for the rough sea we had... great experance.
casey johns 14 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S great belaying position. great climb great day
great belaying position. great climb great day
Hidden 10 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
AMJ098 7 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S Lovely route - great views
Lovely route - great views
Hidden 4 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Kirill 29 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
with Charles Mason, Chris Donica
with Charles Mason, Chris Donica
Hedley 29 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Doug Flute
with Doug Flute
canis cibo 29 Aug, 2011 AltLd Followed hedley on the traverse, lead pitch 2
with Hedley
Followed hedley on the traverse, lead pitch 2
with Hedley
Hidden 27 Aug, 2011 2nd
Hidden 27 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Bruise Apprentice 26 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Tracey led P1, with lots of rope drag (unavoidable). I led P2. Interesting move to get off the arete and onto the slab for P2, should have been given a grade.
with tommo
Tracey led P1, with lots of rope drag (unavoidable). I led P2. Interesting move to get off the arete and onto the slab for P2, should have been given a grade.
with tommo
Hidden 13 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Stanley 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Cragking
with Cragking
Stanners 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S At least it only took 3 hours! Rope getting court on rock left martin with 15m of slack and some other stuff went wrong. If your as retarded as us at multi-pitch climbing where you cant see the leader, just DWS the first pitch at high tide. 2nd pitch was great fun but more like VD with that amount of gear and jugs.
with Martin Stanfield
At least it only took 3 hours! Rope getting court on rock left martin with 15m of slack and some other stuff went wrong. If your as retarded as us at multi-pitch climbing where you cant see the leader, just DWS the first pitch at high tide. 2nd pitch was great fun but more like VD with that amount of gear and jugs.
with Martin Stanfield
Hidden 25 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Lev 23 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Emma
with Emma
Adam Coles ?Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
Adam Coles 23 Jan, 2011 2nd
with ben1987
with ben1987
Adam Coles 23 Jan, 2011 2nd
with ben1987
with ben1987
Adam Coles 23 Jan, 2011 2nd
with ben1987
with ben1987
ben1987 23 Jan, 2011 Lead
ben1987 ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Wil.Hooke 16 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Aug, 2010 Lead
Hidden 28 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Leelogs 15 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
with SCC
with SCC
Hidden 15 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 7 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with R.Horler
with R.Horler
erinbastian 27 Jun, 2010 Lead
with jacob phillips
with jacob phillips
Stepanek 12 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S sucky traverse, but great chimney
with Louise Cowie
sucky traverse, but great chimney
with Louise Cowie
cjohn62 12 Jun, 2010 AltLd
with martin
with martin
martinp 12 Jun, 2010 2nd
with JohnC
with JohnC
Jess Christley 1 May, 2010 AltLd
with Alys Rook
with Alys Rook
Rob84 1 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Lou & Aled
with Lou & Aled
Hidden 10 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Bex_M 29 Aug, 2009 Lead dnf
with Astrid Saxby
with Astrid Saxby
Ed morris 21 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Dickon
with Dickon
Nigel R Lewis 25 Jul, 2009 AltLd
with Huw Rees
with Huw Rees
nic42 3 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Jack
with Jack
Hidden 3 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
Cardi 26 Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S What a gem! Traverse was exposed and atmospheric, (not sure the guidebook mentions this fully!) top pitch was in a fantastic position. Blue skies and crashing waves. Fantastic. Think me may have done a bit of Maelstrom Chimney at the top
with Ed H
What a gem! Traverse was exposed and atmospheric, (not sure the guidebook mentions this fully!) top pitch was in a fantastic position. Blue skies and crashing waves. Fantastic. Think me may have done a bit of Maelstrom Chimney at the top
with Ed H
Hidden 14 Apr, 2007 Lead
Hidden 27 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
Si ?May, 2006 Lead Uni trip
Uni trip
gareth r ?Mar, 2006 -
with Martin
with Martin
Geoffers ?Oct, 2005 2nd O/S
with Tim
with Tim
timreynolds 18 Sep, 2005 Lead
Hidden 1 May, 2005 Lead O/S
babymoac 28 Aug, 2004 AltLd
with Natasha Greer
with Natasha Greer
victim of mathematics 5 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2002 Lead
Glenn Sutcliffe 19 Apr, 1992 -
with keefe
with keefe
keefe 19 Apr, 1992 -
Hidden 29 Apr, 1989 Solo
hazeysunshine ?Jun, 1986 AltLd O/S
with Phil, Jane
with Phil, Jane
Hidden 1 Feb, 1981 Solo
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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set