Rockfax Description
An excellent climb up the big corner. This is the first feature encountered when traversing leftwards below the wall. Start below a slim groove below and slightly right of the corner. Climb the groove then step left into the corner and follow it to the top. © Rockfax

FA. S.Titt 15/Apr/1979

Ticklists: Ultimate HVS ticklist, Pembroke VDiff-HVS, Orange Spot Pembroke, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs.

AngelaC 02/Sep/17 Lead

Great climb though hard as a first climb (Rick!) I found the steep crack the crux especially with the polished hold that my hand slipped off cause me to barn door and just about hang on with other hand! In my flustered state I then dropped a cam into the sea (sorry Rick!!). Happily found the overhang was much easier than it looked - As someone who mainly climbs VS and only occasional HVS I consider this a definite but friendly HVS!

Andrew Sloan 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S

A bit greasy but pretty straightforward for the grade.

with Tim
Hidden 22/Aug/17 2nd rpt
John Nuttall 13/Aug/17 Lead
with Sharon
JonesE 12/Aug/17 2nd O/S
dinodinosaur 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with JonesE
Roget 05/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with jon
John Brayshaw 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Intimidating to look at but the climbing is very enjoyable and friendly and at the grade

with Erica
cem 04/Aug/17 2nd rpt
Brodes 04/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with cem
alanblyth 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S

So good! Our traverse involved a couple of step downs that were.... engaging, great venue, great route.

with Aidan
adie84 20/Jul/17 -
Hidden 09/Jul/17 2nd
Chris_barr 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Jo
CameronH 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Holly Rowland
Felicity Eperon 23/Jun/17 2nd
with Josh Abrahams
khalidq 17/Jun/17 Lead rpt
Dan Vaj 17/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Khalid
AndrewP 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S

VS 4c I reckon. Great route.

Julian Prieto 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
FelixPeterken 03/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with AndrewP
cliffy 03/Jun/17 2nd
Alison Cairns 28/May/17 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/May/17 Lead O/S
HannahC 28/May/17 Lead
with Pinnacle Club
catrin289 18/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Peter Harris, Omar
Dizz 15/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with Matt t
Hidden 15/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Dizz 14/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with megan, EJ
Mark Pickrell 14/Apr/17 2nd
with Dick
Hidden 14/Apr/17 Lead
etrillaud 13/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Tubs 03/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Good route but liberally plastered with holds and gear. Top-end VS 4c?

with Dave M
millgate 26/Mar/17 Lead
with Jonah
msoldn ??/2017 Lead dnf

Ripped out a large block half-way through the steep corner, took a 7m whipper, then finished off the ramp to the right

with Markus
Mathias Willerup ??/2017 -
gingernick 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant. 3 stars from me

with Darrell
dmorgan27 13/Nov/16 2nd
Hidden 02/Oct/16 2nd
jamie d 09/Sep/16 Lead
WillAndrew 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
robgixer 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Dizz 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Paul Tanton
rich_hw 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Pete
PaulTanton 26/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Liz
Lenny 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Hidden
Hidden 26/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Pete Wimbush 26/Aug/16 2nd
with Richard Williams
David Staples 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Tim Sparrow 10/Aug/16 2nd

Drizzly fun

with Ian Armstrong
Nick Russell 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Good climb on great rock. Feels a bit isolated after the traverse.

with Emily
Emily 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Good start to the weekend.

with Nick
Richard Kendrick 29/May/16 2nd
with Nick Loc
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead O/S
rosiehawker 29/May/16 2nd
with Martin Johnson
Jack93 27/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/16 Lead O/S
andy dunn 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Mike, J
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Ollie B 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with B.Brewer
Kris2fa 04/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Superb climbing. Never too strenuous but beware of two loose blocks in the corner around the crux

with Adam24B
Adam24B 04/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
mila.and 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Rob - traverse pitch, Mila - route pitch

with Rob
Hidden 31/Aug/15 Lead
joem 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Flavio
staceyjg 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Absolutely loved this climb, my first "real" HVS lead, found it very pleasant with enough of a bite to make it interesting, just my style of route.... Also was constantly drizzling too, so starting to get a little damp!

Flavio 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/15 2nd O/S
The Ivanator 14/Aug/15 Lead O/S

VS 4c IMO - good route, atmospheric crag.

with Rob
pete johnson 13/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Dave Rumney
Dave Rumney 13/Aug/15 Lead

horribly damp

with Pete Johnston
Razor ?/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead
Alison Cairns 18/Jul/15 2nd

Such a beautiful climb

with Hazel J
hazeysunshine 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Jul/15 2nd rpt
james1978 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with pam
TobyA 06/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Tom R
scottcoates 24/May/15 Lead O/S
with Will
chancer 23/May/15 2nd O/S

The corner is superb.

with Jason Wood
williap 23/May/15 2nd
sheelba 16/May/15 2nd
with Kevin
fizzychewitt 09/May/15 2nd
with Phil, Jayne
albarnett93 04/May/15 2nd dog

Would have (probably) been a clean ascent but missed a piece of gear just before the crux (dumb I know), had to down climb to get it after successfully completing the crux, then fell off (Y).

with Laura Brown, Dylan Kenworthy
Laurabrown 04/May/15 2nd
with Dylan Kenworthy, Alec Barnett
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
TomRiddelsdell 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
islandlynx 13/Sep/14 2nd
simon kimber 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S


with Rob Andrews
luke glaister 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant. One of the best hvs in the area. Great gear. A little run out to more gear. Move the feet and bridge when u can. Ace.

charles-green 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Nice sustained climbing on clean rock with good gear. Very atmospheric crag, nice and quiet.

RobScarisbrick 06/Sep/14 2nd
casey johns 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Matt77 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
mariannekhoo 23/Aug/14 Lead β

It's still a lead with beta, even though I couldn't remember much about the route from seconding it a few years earlier. Think it is easier than Pink 'Un at Saddle Head.

with Peri Cheal
poeter210 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
RyanOsborne 23/Aug/14 Lead
gazj1986 18/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Steven Carter 04/Aug/14 2nd O/S
turnertactics 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Started on Maelstrom Chimney but this looked like a better line. Ample gear placements & holds.

Matt250 26/May/14 2nd O/S
dsh 26/May/14 Lead dog

Unfortunately it was sopping wet so I fell at the bulge as my foot just slipped off the wet wall. Still an excellent route though.

with Matt Williams
Hidden 24/May/14 2nd rpt
Paul Baxter 24/May/14 Lead O/S

First full HVS! Felt fairly sustained

JemGreening 05/May/14 2nd
with Dylan Kenworthy
john. e.r 05/May/14 TR dog
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd
asmith37 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

It somehow manages to feel intimidating most of the way as you can't see the holds from below, but with maybe 1 easy 5a move and reasonable gear its quite steady.

Hidden 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S
will_benfold 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Pero 14/Sep/13 Lead
John Nuttall 01/Sep/13 Lead
with Jon
pigeonslipper 31/Aug/13 Lead
metal arms 31/Aug/13 2nd
Ann S 26/Aug/13 2nd

Very thuggy HVS well led by John who brought 3 of us up behind him.

with John Carlin
Hidden 24/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 22/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 22/Aug/13 2nd
joe gallacher 18/Aug/13 2nd

Big swell running below the high tide traverse...climbing team coming the other way who didn't fancy the traverse (understandable given the seas) Matt , undetered , cracked on up it & made a fine job of it too. His first HVS lead and a bold choice...well done buddy BIG RESPECT.

with Matt Moore
mattrm 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

First HVS onsight lead. Spot on for the grade. Holds and gear just kept on coming. Some nice bridging and laybacking. Bit of Diff scrambling to get round to the bottom of the route. Which was unexpected.

with Joe Gallacher
nickstephens 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
gg4419 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
duncan 21/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
khalidq 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Ian Lau
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
guy757 06/Jun/13 -
soph 25/May/13 2nd
with Annelies Sarrazyn
riddle 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Bry 05/May/13 2nd β
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Anna Kennedy
Becky E 04/May/13 2nd O/S


annak 04/May/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Stephenson
Graeme Hammond 04/May/13 Lead O/S


with Becky E
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Neil Morbey 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Alastair
alastairbegley 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
haydng 06/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Rachel
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Anthony Dixon 26/Aug/12 Lead
with Caleb
Kemics 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Traversed in from the right. Really nice climb.

with Anthony
Jams Crwca 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Zoe, Craig
stuaart 23/Aug/12 2nd


thomasaneurinsmith 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Really nice. Loads of gear. Relatively straightforward.

with Stuart Reeves
timreynolds 18/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/12 2nd
EllieWoods 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S

traversed in high to do the main corner

with Tim
Jonners 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Very nice climb, exposed traverse with positive holds to start.

Sarah Welsh 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Tim led

Hidden 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Aug/12 Lead
with Emma Grant
Palindrome ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
coco rose ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
hels bels 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Ed morris 24/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Dickon
pembrokeshirecaver 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
David Kay 24/Jun/12 2nd
with Mel Michon
Hidden 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/12 2nd dog
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
The Reaper 06/May/12 Lead
melonmike 13/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with Nath
Julie Carroll 07/Apr/12 2nd
with Tristan Graham
tlmarjot 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Mikey Richmond
melonmike 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tim
keith leonard 11/Mar/12 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
clams ??/2012 Lead
with Sean
Hidden 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure 16/Sep/11 Lead
with Jon L
cem 30/Aug/11 2nd rpt
drcorbasisgod 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Voltemands 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Leelogs 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with SCC
mariannekhoo 26/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Tracey and I soloed the traverse to reach the base of the corner. Had rained for 12h solid overnight and the climb was very wet. Otherwise, a very enjoyable climb.

Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/11 2nd rpt
jgordon75 15/Aug/11 2nd
Owen W-G 15/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jim
thomasadixon 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Good climb.

with Mike
five 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with AV
Stone Muppet 28/May/11 Lead O/S

Wet, but I thought it was ok. Think I might have sandbagged some others saying this, particularly Dan who fell off the following day - sorry!

with ah
Hidden 27/May/11 2nd
Hidden 25/May/11 Lead
onlyfoddington 23/May/11 2nd O/S

Started 10m above actual belay, where Maelstrom Chimney traverse crosses the climb

theotherpetehill 22/May/11 Lead O/S

Traversed in along the line of the Severe - a bit spicy!

with David Brock
chrisallan 22/May/11 Lead O/S
mjeffery 22/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/11 2nd
mikelaing ?/May/11 2nd
with Ian Whitehead
Rachel Slater 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Olli-C 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
mountain.martin 28/Apr/11 2nd
Edd Reed 28/Apr/11 Lead

After backing off last year well chuffed to get this done.

with Pat Lowman, Martin Allen
Jake Young 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Steve J
Alan100 09/Apr/11 -

Would be a good first HVS - loads of protection, nice moves and memorable situation.

Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
stevorobs3 ??/2011 2nd O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Paul Boggis ??/2011 Lead
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
3kidsandanorton 25/Sep/10 2nd
with Pete Templar
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd rpt
John Lewis 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Hobson
teflonpete 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Thought the traverse to the start of the route was the hardest bit, pleasant route.

with Barry
greedo 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Guy reid
hazeysunshine 28/Aug/10 2nd
with Dave
rd20 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Loic
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
cem 27/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Ed morris 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant route with a surprisingly delicate crux.

with Tom
TM_Horton 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S

fun with awesome positions !

with ed
Dave Reeve 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
tigertim 11/Aug/10 2nd
Jams Crwca 09/May/10 2nd O/S
with Martin
davefount 02/May/10 Lead O/S

slightly gogarthesk

alitamlit 02/May/10 2nd
with Dave
petegruf 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with luke g
lyneux 01/May/10 2nd O/S
with Chris Bull
Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
katherinesydney 05/Apr/10 2nd O/S

wow, what a great route! sunshine, exploding waves (got wet), fun traverse in, then some interesting moves to the top

with gary burgess
Aaron Lines ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
ollyhorst 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S

my first HVS

with Tom Boeckx
Paul Bowen 26/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead β
ian d f 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Pete H
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Kirill 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Simeon, Gerard Thornley
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd
Shauna 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Jules
Hidden 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 19/Jun/09 2nd
with GF
Hidden 24/May/09 2nd O/S
climbingpixie 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Hobson
givemetea 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Patrick
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 03/May/09 Lead O/S

Very good

ASchwirtz 03/May/09 Lead O/S

Or try my version and travere into it! Goes at the same grade....... or does it?

with Mat tDrain
nic42 03/May/09 2nd O/S
with Jack
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead O/S
Dale ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with dave
karly54 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Peter Goodwin
duncan 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Toby Haughey
Paz 11/Apr/09 2nd β


with TS2,PS
Hidden ?/Apr/09 2nd
bennybeast ??/2009 Lead O/S
eagleopus 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Gareth
gareth r 01/Aug/08 2nd
with Hywel
Bob M 13/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead
leigh 10/May/08 2nd O/S
with Ed
Chad123 05/May/08 AltLd O/S

Easy HVS but great position and nice moves.

with Sam and Susie
sgl 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Susie and Chad
Dave Westby ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S

Excellent route on good holds with good gear.

with Dave Cundy
dan gibson 07/May/07 Lead O/S
with martina
Tim W 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/07 2nd
david morse 05/Apr/07 Lead
with chris todd and "dangermouse"
Hidden 05/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/07 2nd O/S
janegallwey ??/2007 Lead
RichS-Bristol ??/2007 -
Wil Treasure 10/Aug/06 -
with Malcolm
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Abi Chard ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S

First HVS!

with Ian
Neil Ireson 21/Jul/06 2nd
with Jane
Oliver Sherman 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with John Eales
feilx 29/May/06 2nd
with Jon
Different Steve 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Guy Reid
Hidden ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Si ?/Mar/06 2nd

With Jen. Uni trip

Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 28/Aug/05 2nd
with Carissa
Bella 28/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Shaw
Ramon Marin 18/Jun/05 2nd
with Dave Reaney
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 30/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Woody63 03/Aug/04 2nd
with Dave W
Hidden 03/Aug/04 Lead
Mark Davies PK ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with steve c
evhall ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/03 2nd
Sime64 25/May/03 2nd O/S
with Nick K, Steve M
LC ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
alex_th ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Tim Riley
nige pacer 12/Oct/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead
Laramadness 27/Jul/02 2nd β
with Jim Higgins
Laramadness 27/Jul/02 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/02 Lead O/S
chris wyatt ??/2002 2nd O/S
with Dave Reaney
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/01 2nd
Hidden 20/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Aug/00 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
DubyaJamesDubya 30/Apr/00 Lead O/S

Caroline seconded in good style. Going well early season.

with Caroline...
DafSWMC 29/Apr/00 2nd O/S
with UMIST
Hidden 18/Apr/00 -
alan moore ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
cem 02/May/99 Lead O/S
with Gordon Carder
Hidden 01/May/99 2nd O/S
Chris Ellis 15/Aug/98 Lead
with Maggie Ingrams
Hidden 30/May/98 2nd
Si Clapham ??/1998 -
kp64zl ?/Jul/97 2nd
with Jason M
Hidden 31/May/97 2nd
tlr 25/May/96 Lead
with Pete D
Roget 24/Jun/95 2nd O/S
with jon
mikej 10/Jun/95 2nd
with Nick Salmon
Andy Say 16/Apr/95 Lead
Tom V 21/Apr/90 2nd
with Glenn Watson
michael burrows 29/May/88 2nd
with steve williams
Dave Musgrove 29/May/88 2nd
with David
Hidden 10/Jul/87 -
Neil McA 21/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Alice Eisele
Hidden ?/Jan/87 2nd
Nigel Coe ??/1987 Lead
Martin Bennett 20/Jul/86 -
with RA
Steve Long ??/1986 Lead
Mark Kemball 21/Apr/84 -
with Dave Hall
Hidden 28/Dec/82 -
Hidden ?/Apr/82 Solo
Hidden 15/Apr/79 Lead
Hidden ??/0000 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 70
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 65
Style of ascent
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