Rockfax Description
This popular E5 has a hard start and a bold finish. Start just left of Shape-Up below some pockets and cracks. Climb these and the easier flakes above to the overlap. Move left below the old peg and then up to the next overlap. Fill this full of gear, pause for a long time, and then climb direct to the top. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 08/Apr/1983

Ticklists

101Pembroke Extremes, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Theo's Pembroke ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Andrew1 10 Aug Lead O/S
with Hulda
with Hulda
afterthesend 11 May 2nd β Stiff at the start and on the slab.
with Ed Babs
Stiff at the start and on the slab.
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 11 May Lead dog Good route. I worked hard on this! Did the tricky start but then missed a foothold out left on the slab traverse and was off. Gutted. And I had to run out the top with no hope of glory.
Good route. I worked hard on this! Did the tricky start but then missed a foothold out left on the slab traverse and was off. Gutted. And I had to run out the top with no hope of glory.
beni 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Tangerine_Kingdom 6 May, 2018 Lead G/U Peg still good, but the ring a just about ok. Threads in good condition. Probably should've waited a bit longer for the sun to dry the bottom.
Peg still good, but the ring a just about ok. Threads in good condition. Probably should've waited a bit longer for the sun to dry the bottom.
Ed morris 25 Apr, 2018 Lead β Think I toproped this years ago, but didn't remember it as I climbed the crux all wrong! Nice, intense wall climbing, reasonable gear for the start.
Think I toproped this years ago, but didn't remember it as I climbed the crux all wrong! Nice, intense wall climbing, reasonable gear for the start.
Stefan_Morris 25 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S some really nice moves. bit rambly in the middle.
some really nice moves. bit rambly in the middle.
Hidden 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Holister 7 May, 2017 2nd O/S Tricky little number
with ali k
Tricky little number
with ali k
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Steve Crowe 11 Aug, 2016 Lead β I gave it a good clean on abseil. Both led. There is a good RP (hard to place) which protects the start.
with karin
I gave it a good clean on abseil. Both led. There is a good RP (hard to place) which protects the start.
with karin
soph 4 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
miastacey ?Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Did the climb, fell off the grass at the top of the leap. 20m head first. Good catch from Soph.
with Sophie Whyte
Did the climb, fell off the grass at the top of the leap. 20m head first. Good catch from Soph.
with Sophie Whyte
bigie bob 19 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
pipof747 26 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 25 May, 2015 2nd rpt Tricky little number!
Tricky little number!
nathanlee 25 May, 2015 Lead O/S Found this really hard work!
Found this really hard work!
Tom Livingstone 9 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Oli Grounsell
with Oli Grounsell
tim newton 19 Apr, 2014 2nd rpt Misha started up slap up to the half height ledge which actually gives a much better route without the slightly pokey ankle braking start of Fitzcarraldo, and unlike the true start gives good and sustained difficulties all the way to the mid height ledge and then includes the top two cruxes of the original route. The final hard move still felt tricky on second, hard E4/easy E5 for this combo.
with Misha
Misha started up slap up to the half height ledge which actually gives a much better route without the slightly pokey ankle braking start of Fitzcarraldo, and unlike the true start gives good and sustained difficulties all the way to the mid height ledge and then includes the top two cruxes of the original route. The final hard move still felt tricky on second, hard E4/easy E5 for this combo.
with Misha
LRob 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Misha 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 19 Apr, 2014 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2014 Lead O/S
tim newton 25 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S A hard & committing start, then it's steady for a fair way, then a hard traverse left by the 2 pegs (should you hand or foot traverse the line of 'holds'? I foot traversed, Jon hand traversed) then the tricky final top slab. I was nearly off a few times.
A hard & committing start, then it's steady for a fair way, then a hard traverse left by the 2 pegs (should you hand or foot traverse the line of 'holds'? I foot traversed, Jon hand traversed) then the tricky final top slab. I was nearly off a few times.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 1 Apr, 2013 Lead
Duncan Campbell 1 Apr, 2013 2nd Steady away until the top (though niether rob nor I did the proper start, we cam in from shape-up).
Steady away until the top (though niether rob nor I did the proper start, we cam in from shape-up).
Howard Lawledge ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
with Maddy
with Maddy
Hidden 28 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Si Witcher 27 May, 2012 2nd O/S bold initial sequence, but the top slab has some good small cams halfway up
bold initial sequence, but the top slab has some good small cams halfway up
dan gibson 5 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with richard lade
with richard lade
JulesV 10 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 10 Aug, 2011 2nd
Ally Smith 26 Apr, 2011 2nd rpt Felt harder seconding it than leading it a few years back
with Aly
Felt harder seconding it than leading it a few years back
with Aly
Hidden 26 Apr, 2011 Lead
Toby Dunn 24 Apr, 2011 2nd
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
owenH ??, 2011 -
Adam Long 10 Oct, 2010 2nd
with Neil 'Nige' Kershaw
with Neil 'Nige' Kershaw
Alex Mason 27 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Screaming feet. The start is ok, with a decent sideways rock 8 up to the right. Then E1 climbing to the pegs. The crux was passing these. Then good gear at the overlap, got established above, hung around forever getting really sore feet, was ready to give up, but then found more holds out left which gave access to slopey muddy pockets, a few exciting pulls led to the top. Exciting.
Screaming feet. The start is ok, with a decent sideways rock 8 up to the right. Then E1 climbing to the pegs. The crux was passing these. Then good gear at the overlap, got established above, hung around forever getting really sore feet, was ready to give up, but then found more holds out left which gave access to slopey muddy pockets, a few exciting pulls led to the top. Exciting.
morganator 14 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Andy Benson
with Andy Benson
Toby Dunn 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
with Joe Bawden
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
phil64 ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Paz 12 Apr, 2009 Lead dnf Just tried the first move and down climbed as wasn't psyched for damp ish rock above ankle snapping rocks (was psyched for head hunter which was minging).
with TS2
Just tried the first move and down climbed as wasn't psyched for damp ish rock above ankle snapping rocks (was psyched for head hunter which was minging).
with TS2
Ed Booth 25 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S awesome runnout at the top! shame a little dirty as its wicked clibming!
with Gus
awesome runnout at the top! shame a little dirty as its wicked clibming!
with Gus
Gus 25 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with ed booth
with ed booth
fennerz 25 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S
with Ed and Gus
with Ed and Gus
robyn1 ??, 2008 -
Ally Smith ??, 2005 -
with Aly
with Aly
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
Alan Cameron-Duff ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Heather, Toby
with Heather, Toby
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
PaulTanton 12 Sep, 1999 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
with Dave Taylor
Roget 22 May, 1999 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
sadams 16 Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
with Pete Bukowski
with Pete Bukowski
Pete Wimbush ?Aug, 1996 2nd
with Dave Langrish
with Dave Langrish
Greg Cunningham ?Jun, 1995 2nd
with nigel birtwell
with nigel birtwell
AlexRenshaw 6 May, 1995 Lead
Hidden ??, 1995 2nd
pete johnson 2 Jul, 1994 2nd
with Crispin Waddy
with Crispin Waddy
jfletcher 28 May, 1994 Lead O/S Awesome day in the Leap with Captain Nick, 1st in & last to leave, led 3 routes each, starting with Bloody Sunday and Just Another Day (E4s) & then the rest E5s.
with Nick Wharton
Awesome day in the Leap with Captain Nick, 1st in & last to leave, led 3 routes each, starting with Bloody Sunday and Just Another Day (E4s) & then the rest E5s.
with Nick Wharton
Billg ?May, 1994 Lead O/S
with Keith Sharples
with Keith Sharples
geoff b 26 Aug, 1991 Lead Super varied climbing in the days when I could remember crux moves from previous ascents!
with Greg Forward, Ken Wilkinson
Super varied climbing in the days when I could remember crux moves from previous ascents!
with Greg Forward, Ken Wilkinson
Hidden ?Apr, 1990 2nd
Hidden ??, 1990 2nd
geoff b 29 May, 1989 2nd
with Big Mark Hopkins
with Big Mark Hopkins
Alan James - UKC and UKH 29 May, 1989 Lead
with Tudor Griffiths
with Tudor Griffiths
Eduardo Martinez 24 May, 1989 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1989 -
Will Webb ?Jun, 1987 Lead G/U big fall from crux, lowered down, pulled ropes through and then sent it next time
with Mark Cole
big fall from crux, lowered down, pulled ropes through and then sent it next time
with Mark Cole
UKB Shark 24 May, 1987 2nd
with Nick Postlethwaite
with Nick Postlethwaite
Mike Owen 22 Apr, 1987 Lead O/S
with Simon King
with Simon King
Hidden ??, 1987 -
mitch1960 ??, 1987 Lead
with Alan Dance
with Alan Dance
andy gittins ??, 1987 -
Seymore Butt ??, 1985 2nd
with Roy
with Roy
Hidden ??, 1984 2nd
Hidden 27 Aug, 1983 Lead
Gary Gibson 8 Apr, 1983 Lead First ascent
with Phil Gibson
First ascent
with Phil Gibson
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