Rockfax Description
Classic steep climbing past loads of threads - about 7a+ but check the threads first! Start 10m left of the Mother Night ledge. Climb up then move right around the first bulge to a thread in a diagonal slab. Climb up the overlaps leftwards to the traverse line of Hyper Space. Pull up above and follow the line of threads, keeping left of the short groove, to the upper break. Either finish straight up the wall, or as for Mother Night. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 1992

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke.

J_Spooner 01/Sep 2nd dog

Amazing route, but yes it is steep!

with Ben Smart
Haydn Jones 14/Jul Lead O/S

With direct finish... Possibly the best e5 I've ever done

Andy Peak 1 14/Jul 2nd dog

The steepest Route I've ever bean on, mainly jugs with two crux sections, the one at the top I was two pumped to do so stept of to the rite.

maddy.c 13/Jul -
Wendy 25/Jun Lead O/S

The most pumped I've been on a trad route! Amazing route.

with Gaz
Ed Booth 13/Jun Lead O/S
Adam Booth 13/Jun 2nd RP

Tried on lead, all a bit wet, pumped out of my mind, no chalk so couldn't work out what to do above the second thread, pumped off. Tried ground up and got one or two moves further but it was quite apparent I wasn't going to get to the top with arms that pumped! Just about seconded Ed clean, but found the top nails too. Great route. Need to get fitter!

andyinglis 13/Oct/16 Lead dnf

Faffed around trying to figure out the line of mother night, lost interest and head up this till the inevitable air time. 2nded Murdo out.

with Murdoch Jamieson
coula1 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Threads look recently replaced. Loads of other gear too.

Dangerous Dave 07/Sep/16 2nd O/S

The faff involved in leading this after Ally would have been too great as the tide was in. Great route, well steep!

katy_abra 06/Jun/16 2nd
dan gibson 06/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Katerina petkova
Tom Livingstone 02/Jun/16 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone 02/Jun/16 2nd rpt

James went for a rematch.

Hidden 02/Jun/16 Lead G/U
quiffhanger 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Harder and scarier than expected. Threads not in good nick made it feel pretty serious - worryingly close to taking a v big lob onto them & not sure they would have held. Would probably have given up if the gear was better but I was forced to press-on instead! Think Rachel had almost as exciting an experience as her second ever E5 on second.

with Rachel
Ed morris 27/May/15 Lead O/S

Just got on with it, my anti style too, trad head back on!

with Ian Bryant
NDD 24/May/15 Lead O/S
with tony stone
bigie bob 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 23/May/15 2nd rpt

Felt significantly harder than when I lead this last year. Got a little pumped this time! (Must get fitter..)

with Misha
Misha 23/May/15 Lead dog

How can this be so damn hard when most of the holds are jugs?! Not used to hard steep stuff so footwork was shoddy. Completely misread the route at the first thread, missing the massive undercut next to the thread. Instead got into a strenuous dead end position and eventually peeled off. A decent lob but within reach of the face so pulled back on. Back up but couldn't figure out how to get off the ramp above the thread - looks like something you can rest on, well you can't! Slumped onto the thread for a rest. Next go figured it out and climbed through to the threads above. Seem good holds but hard to depump. Poor rest level with the stance of Mother Night. Above that it didn't relent! Got the next thread, which was round a thin finger or rock, and got up to the next one but was totally bolloxed so clipped the draw but unable to clip the rope! Tried hanging onto the draw (how pathetic!) but to no avail and gravity soon took its toll. Big fall as the next thread down blew - the thin finger of rock is no more! Take a yellow cam instead. Back up, had a rest on the top gear, climbed better this time so clipped the thread and moved up to the jug at the next thread. Spent a while there, trying out the tricky moves up and left. The jug was good enough to hang around on. Eventually went for it and the moves weren't too bad. Tried to finish direct but it was desperate - looked easy but everything was sloping the wrong way. Tried it twice, resting on gear both times, then gave up and stepped left to follow the next groove, which was fine. Totally wastes! Cams 0.3 to 2 plus wires/offsets. Most threads need replacing. Will be back!

with Rachel
nathanlee 23/May/15 2nd rpt
with Mal Scott
Cailean Harker 19/May/15 Lead O/S
malx ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead β
Tom Livingstone 11/Apr/15 2nd rpt
HAJ Francis ?/Apr/15 Lead G/U
Tom Livingstone 24/Mar/15 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
brices 26/Jul/14 Lead dog

Awesome route, super pumpy and massively intimidating, one to go back for

with Mike
Ramon Marin 26/May/14 Lead dnf

Got on it as first route of the day. Fairly wet and spend too much time protecting the first bit before clipping the first tat, so pumped out and lowered down. Will come back for take two hopefully in better conditions

Hidden 14/May/14 2nd
Rachel Slater 02/May/14 Lead O/S

Justin was going to do it but somehow persuaded me to do it instead? First E5 and I've never done an E4! Pretty intimidating but the climbing felt easy after sport climbing for a few months...

Justin T 02/May/14 2nd
with Rachel
nathanlee 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

got pumped going the wrong way then had to try hard! the top is immaculate

with Rob Greenwood
JBO 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Crazy route, it seems impossibly steep when you abseil in. Fortunately most of the holds were absolutely massive! Probably the physically hardest trad lead I've done, but well protected. Lots and lots of 6a moves - sooooo pumpy! Hard crux moving out left near the top before reaching the highest break.

Keendan 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Such a cool route! Tried to jam rest halfway but too painful (would be a great rest if taped up). Got a bit pumped high up, then went right into the groove to pull up some much smaller holds. Not sure if this is the right line? Very comfy kneebar no hands rest above the groove. I wimped out of the direct finish, scared of messing it up.

with Remus
Hidden 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
redjerry ?/Sep/12 TR
theotherpetehill 28/May/12 2nd dog

Totally frigged this

jacobjacob 28/May/12 Lead O/S

Wild! Some of the threads have seen better days but there are so many one is bound to hold! The loose top out made it much more interesting.

mgeek 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Neill Busby
JRae 22/Aug/11 2nd
pipof747 30/Jun/11 Lead RP

Sent 2. go after Fall at last hard move on the on sight. Sooo pumpy...

mwatson ??/2011 -
Ged Desforges ??/2011 -

Not a clip up! Great route, a fair bit spicier than i was expecting. Threads in good nick, but take a few extra slings

Toby Dunn 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
JulesV ??/2010 Lead O/S
with joe bawden
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Aug/01 2nd O/S
The Jazz Butcher ?/Jan/98 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/1998 2nd
Steve Crowe 02/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with KM
clark alston ?/Aug/95 2nd
with Dave Henderson
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