51m.

Rockfax Description
Classic steep climbing past loads of threads - about 7a+ but check the threads first! Start 10m left of the Mother Night ledge. Climb up then move right around the first bulge to a thread in a diagonal slab. Climb up the overlaps leftwards to the traverse line of Hyper Space. Pull up above and follow the line of threads, keeping left of the short groove, to the upper break. Either finish straight up the wall, or as for Mother Night. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 1992

Ticklists

Trad climbs for sport climbers, 101Pembroke Extremes, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, James' Summer Ticklist, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Gareth H 16 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I agree, a superb route never that hard but very pumpy, there is a reasonable knee bar before the three close together threads in a hole. I might be wrong but I think the rockfax guide shows the wrong way at the top. I tried to go up a smooth groove right of the last big thread and found it nails, broke a foothold off and fell off, going left is much easier and in keeping with the route. Anybody else found this? Gareth
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree, a superb route never that hard but very pumpy, there is a reasonable knee bar before the three close together threads in a hole. I might be wrong but I think the rockfax guide shows the wrong way at the top. I tried to go up a smooth groove right of the last big thread and found it nails, broke a foothold off and fell off, going left is much easier and in keeping with the route. Anybody else found this? Gareth
The Jazz Butcher 8 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic space trip up the main part of this cliff at such an amenable grade, ie virtually "sported up" with all the threads. This would be a very different kettle of fish without threads, more like E6 to put in all the gear at such an outrageous angle. Make sure threads are in good condition or else it will feel like Worf is running you down with The Sword of Kahless!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic space trip up the main part of this cliff at such an amenable grade, ie virtually "sported up" with all the threads. This would be a very different kettle of fish without threads, more like E6 to put in all the gear at such an outrageous angle. Make sure threads are in good condition or else it will feel like Worf is running you down with The Sword of Kahless!
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 31 Jul Lead RP
Owen Diba 31 Jul Lead O/S
harry_lewis 29 Jun Lead O/S very good
with milena
very good
with milena
milena 29 Jun 2nd O/S So much pump! Amazing position.
So much pump! Amazing position.
Ramon Marin 27 May Lead RP My god, so good to put this one to bed after failing on it 5 years ago. I wished i’d saved it for conditions like today.
My god, so good to put this one to bed after failing on it 5 years ago. I wished i’d saved it for conditions like today.
Richard Kendrick 27 May 2nd rpt
Billg 6 May 2nd dog
with Timm Oertel
with Timm Oertel
Richard Kendrick 22 Apr Lead O/S
with Alice, Frances Bensley
with Alice, Frances Bensley
Gus 21 Apr Lead β More onsight than flash but was psyched to have chalk on the route and have Mark shouting which direction to go as we didn't have a guidebook! Mega route!!
with Vicky hurley
More onsight than flash but was psyched to have chalk on the route and have Mark shouting which direction to go as we didn't have a guidebook! Mega route!!
with Vicky hurley
markalmack 21 Apr Lead RP Fell off going the wrong way. Was still close 2nd attempt.
with Trouble Bird
Fell off going the wrong way. Was still close 2nd attempt.
with Trouble Bird
Katekeltie 20 Apr 2nd dog
datoon 24 Aug, 2018 Lead
Robb Bert 24 Aug, 2018 2nd dog Covered in jugs !! Hung on 2 threads. Wasn't switched on, could have got up this clean.
with Dave Toon
Covered in jugs !! Hung on 2 threads. Wasn't switched on, could have got up this clean.
with Dave Toon
Adam24B 9 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Ballsed it up, came flying off super high up after a massive fight with greasy holds and unrelenting sun. Went too far left and ran out of steam, didn't have the option to do it ground up because of the tide :(
Ballsed it up, came flying off super high up after a massive fight with greasy holds and unrelenting sun. Went too far left and ran out of steam, didn't have the option to do it ground up because of the tide :(
J_Spooner 1 Sep, 2017 2nd dog Amazing route, but yes it is steep!
with Ben Smart
Amazing route, but yes it is steep!
with Ben Smart
Haydn Jones 14 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S With direct finish... Possibly the best e5 I've ever done
With direct finish... Possibly the best e5 I've ever done
Andy Peak 1 14 Jul, 2017 2nd dog The steepest Route I've ever bean on, mainly jugs with two crux sections, the one at the top I was two pumped to do so stept of to the rite.
The steepest Route I've ever bean on, mainly jugs with two crux sections, the one at the top I was two pumped to do so stept of to the rite.
maddy.c 13 Jul, 2017 -
Wendy 25 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S The most pumped I've been on a trad route! Amazing route.
with gazhbo
The most pumped I've been on a trad route! Amazing route.
with gazhbo
Ed Booth 13 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 13 Jun, 2017 2nd RP Tried on lead, all a bit wet, pumped out of my mind, no chalk so couldn't work out what to do above the second thread, pumped off. Tried ground up and got one or two moves further but it was quite apparent I wasn't going to get to the top with arms that pumped! Just about seconded Ed clean, but found the top nails too. Great route. Need to get fitter!
Tried on lead, all a bit wet, pumped out of my mind, no chalk so couldn't work out what to do above the second thread, pumped off. Tried ground up and got one or two moves further but it was quite apparent I wasn't going to get to the top with arms that pumped! Just about seconded Ed clean, but found the top nails too. Great route. Need to get fitter!
andyinglis 13 Oct, 2016 Lead dnf Faffed around trying to figure out the line of mother night, lost interest and head up this till the inevitable air time. 2nded Murdo out.
with Murdoch Jamieson
Faffed around trying to figure out the line of mother night, lost interest and head up this till the inevitable air time. 2nded Murdo out.
with Murdoch Jamieson
coula1 7 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Threads look recently replaced. Loads of other gear too.
Threads look recently replaced. Loads of other gear too.
Dangerous Dave 7 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S The faff involved in leading this after Ally would have been too great as the tide was in. Great route, well steep!
with coula1
The faff involved in leading this after Ally would have been too great as the tide was in. Great route, well steep!
with coula1
katy_abra 6 Jun, 2016 2nd
dan gibson 6 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with Katerina petkova
with Katerina petkova
Tom Livingstone 2 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone 2 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt James went for a rematch.
James went for a rematch.
Hidden 2 Jun, 2016 Lead G/U
quiffhanger 31 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Harder and scarier than expected. Threads not in good nick made it feel pretty serious - worryingly close to taking a v big lob onto them & not sure they would have held. Would probably have given up if the gear was better but I was forced to press-on instead! Think Rachel had almost as exciting an experience as her second ever E5 on second.
with Rachel
Harder and scarier than expected. Threads not in good nick made it feel pretty serious - worryingly close to taking a v big lob onto them & not sure they would have held. Would probably have given up if the gear was better but I was forced to press-on instead! Think Rachel had almost as exciting an experience as her second ever E5 on second.
with Rachel
Hidden 29 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Ed morris 27 May, 2015 Lead O/S Just got on with it, my anti style too, trad head back on!
with Ian Bryant
Just got on with it, my anti style too, trad head back on!
with Ian Bryant
NDD 24 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with tony stone
with tony stone
bigie bob 23 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 23 May, 2015 2nd rpt Felt significantly harder than when I lead this last year. Got a little pumped this time! (Must get fitter..)
with Misha
Felt significantly harder than when I lead this last year. Got a little pumped this time! (Must get fitter..)
with Misha
Misha 23 May, 2015 Lead dog How can this be so damn hard when most of the holds are jugs?! Not used to hard steep stuff so footwork was shoddy. Completely misread the route at the first thread, missing the massive undercut next to the thread. Instead got into a strenuous dead end position and eventually peeled off. A decent lob but within reach of the face so pulled back on. Back up but couldn't figure out how to get off the ramp above the thread - looks like something you can rest on, well you can't! Slumped onto the thread for a rest. Next go figured it out and climbed through to the threads above. Seem good holds but hard to depump. Poor rest level with the stance of Mother Night. Above that it didn't relent! Got the next thread, which was round a thin finger or rock, and got up to the next one but was totally bolloxed so clipped the draw but unable to clip the rope! Tried hanging onto the draw (how pathetic!) but to no avail and gravity soon took its toll. Big fall as the next thread down blew - the thin finger of rock is no more! Take a yellow cam instead. Back up, had a rest on the top gear, climbed better this time so clipped the thread and moved up to the jug at the next thread. Spent a while there, trying out the tricky moves up and left. The jug was good enough to hang around on. Eventually went for it and the moves weren't too bad. Tried to finish direct but it was desperate - looked easy but everything was sloping the wrong way. Tried it twice, resting on gear both times, then gave up and stepped left to follow the next groove, which was fine. Totally wastes! Cams 0.3 to 2 plus wires/offsets. Most threads need replacing. Will be back!
How can this be so damn hard when most of the holds are jugs?! Not used to hard steep stuff so footwork was shoddy. Completely misread the route at the first thread, missing the massive undercut next to the thread. Instead got into a strenuous dead end position and eventually peeled off. A decent lob but within reach of the face so pulled back on. Back up but couldn't figure out how to get off the ramp above the thread - looks like something you can rest on, well you can't! Slumped onto the thread for a rest. Next go figured it out and climbed through to the threads above. Seem good holds but hard to depump. Poor rest level with the stance of Mother Night. Above that it didn't relent! Got the next thread, which was round a thin finger or rock, and got up to the next one but was totally bolloxed so clipped the draw but unable to clip the rope! Tried hanging onto the draw (how pathetic!) but to no avail and gravity soon took its toll. Big fall as the next thread down blew - the thin finger of rock is no more! Take a yellow cam instead. Back up, had a rest on the top gear, climbed better this time so clipped the thread and moved up to the jug at the next thread. Spent a while there, trying out the tricky moves up and left. The jug was good enough to hang around on. Eventually went for it and the moves weren't too bad. Tried to finish direct but it was desperate - looked easy but everything was sloping the wrong way. Tried it twice, resting on gear both times, then gave up and stepped left to follow the next groove, which was fine. Totally wastes! Cams 0.3 to 2 plus wires/offsets. Most threads need replacing. Will be back!
nathanlee 23 May, 2015 2nd rpt
with Mal Scott
with Mal Scott
Cailean Harker 19 May, 2015 Lead O/S
malx ?May, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Apr, 2015 Lead β
Tom Livingstone 11 Apr, 2015 2nd rpt
HAJ Francis ?Apr, 2015 Lead G/U
Tom Livingstone 24 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
with TS
with TS
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
brices 26 Jul, 2014 Lead dog Awesome route, super pumpy and massively intimidating, one to go back for
Awesome route, super pumpy and massively intimidating, one to go back for
Ramon Marin 26 May, 2014 Lead dnf Got on it as first route of the day. Fairly wet and spend too much time protecting the first bit before clipping the first tat, so pumped out and lowered down. Will come back for take two hopefully in better conditions
Got on it as first route of the day. Fairly wet and spend too much time protecting the first bit before clipping the first tat, so pumped out and lowered down. Will come back for take two hopefully in better conditions
Hidden 14 May, 2014 2nd
Rachel Slater 2 May, 2014 Lead O/S Justin was going to do it but somehow persuaded me to do it instead? First E5 and I've never done an E4! Pretty intimidating but the climbing felt easy after sport climbing for a few months...
Justin was going to do it but somehow persuaded me to do it instead? First E5 and I've never done an E4! Pretty intimidating but the climbing felt easy after sport climbing for a few months...
Justin T 2 May, 2014 2nd
nathanlee 18 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S got pumped going the wrong way then had to try hard! the top is immaculate
with Rob Greenwood
got pumped going the wrong way then had to try hard! the top is immaculate
with Rob Greenwood
JBO 25 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Crazy route, it seems impossibly steep when you abseil in. Fortunately most of the holds were absolutely massive! Probably the physically hardest trad lead I've done, but well protected. Lots and lots of 6a moves - sooooo pumpy! Hard crux moving out left near the top before reaching the highest break.
Crazy route, it seems impossibly steep when you abseil in. Fortunately most of the holds were absolutely massive! Probably the physically hardest trad lead I've done, but well protected. Lots and lots of 6a moves - sooooo pumpy! Hard crux moving out left near the top before reaching the highest break.
Keendan 10 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Such a cool route! Tried to jam rest halfway but too painful (would be a great rest if taped up). Got a bit pumped high up, then went right into the groove to pull up some much smaller holds. Not sure if this is the right line? Very comfy kneebar no hands rest above the groove. I wimped out of the direct finish, scared of messing it up.
with remus
Such a cool route! Tried to jam rest halfway but too painful (would be a great rest if taped up). Got a bit pumped high up, then went right into the groove to pull up some much smaller holds. Not sure if this is the right line? Very comfy kneebar no hands rest above the groove. I wimped out of the direct finish, scared of messing it up.
with remus
Hidden 10 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
redjerry ?Sep, 2012 TR
theotherpetehill 28 May, 2012 2nd dog Totally frigged this
Totally frigged this
jacobjacob 28 May, 2012 Lead O/S Wild! Some of the threads have seen better days but there are so many one is bound to hold! The loose top out made it much more interesting.
Wild! Some of the threads have seen better days but there are so many one is bound to hold! The loose top out made it much more interesting.
mgeek 1 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Neill Busby
with Neill Busby
JRae 22 Aug, 2011 2nd
with mwatson
with mwatson
pipof747 30 Jun, 2011 Lead RP Sent 2. go after Fall at last hard move on the on sight. Sooo pumpy...
Sent 2. go after Fall at last hard move on the on sight. Sooo pumpy...
mwatson ??, 2011 -
Ged Desforges ??, 2011 - Not a clip up! Great route, a fair bit spicier than i was expecting. Threads in good nick, but take a few extra slings
Not a clip up! Great route, a fair bit spicier than i was expecting. Threads in good nick, but take a few extra slings
Toby Dunn 28 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
with Joe Bawden
JulesV ??, 2010 Lead O/S
with joe bawden
with joe bawden
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30 Aug, 2001 2nd O/S
with James Ibbertson
with James Ibbertson
Si Witcher ??, 1998 -
Marti999 ??, 1998 2nd
The Jazz Butcher ??, 1998 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 2 Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Hidden ?Aug, 1995 2nd
Hidden ??, 1995 2nd O/S
27 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 10
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set