33m.

Rockfax Description
The magnificent hanging groove in the front arete of the block gives a popular pitch. Start by climbing up on the left then pulling across to gain a short groove above the roof. Move right into the main groove and climb it.
Variation, E1 5a - The steep groove left of the main groove. © Rockfax

FA. D.Armstrong 31/Dec/1976

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Pembroke VDiff-HVS.


ClimberDateStyle
eb202 08/Jul Lead O/S
with Michael
Mike505 08/Jul 2nd O/S
GregClixby 22/Jun Lead O/S
with Jaime
Hidden 04/Jun 2nd
Stroppy 29/May 2nd O/S

Would give this 3 stars, superb steep corner, as much gear as you can throw at it. Better than Army Dreamers IMO

Sam Husband 29/May Lead O/S

Awesome. Tons of gear after a slippery start.

with Ed
PaulTanton 29/May Lead rpt
with Spenser Grey
MarcinK 29/May Lead O/S

very nice route

with Ivan Tanner
eduardo 27/May Lead rpt

Pretty straightforward in spite of the grease!

with Mark H
Miss_Dani 26/May 2nd O/S
Jonoban 26/May Lead
brian watson 20/May 2nd rpt

A absolute beauty as good as i remember it last time.

with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 17/Apr 2nd O/S
mattlyons 15/Apr 2nd O/S
Katekeltie 15/Apr Lead
franhammond92 15/Apr Lead rpt

Better than I remembered, mainly due t being less covered in bird shit.

Hidden 15/Apr Lead O/S
Jake Young 15/Apr 2nd rpt
Duncan Campbell 15/Apr 2nd rpt
Lessworkmoreclimbing 13/Apr 2nd

Dry at the start for a change, makes it so much easier!

with Kev
Robb Bert 27/Mar Lead O/S
with Steve George
fuzzysheep01 26/Mar 2nd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 26/Mar Lead
millgate 26/Mar Lead

Only us on the Crag late in the day on a beautiful sunny day, gear pulled out at the bottom of the climb so big faff to get off

with Jonah
Hidden 02/Jan 2nd rpt
luke glaister 18/Dec/16 Lead rpt
JoeCoxson 02/Oct/16 Lead

The hanging groove is excellent, and the moves keep coming until the last moment. Wedging myself into the constriction at the top may not have been pretty, but by that point thrutching seemed like a better idea than actual technique. Wrong.

Wendy Watthews 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with joe c
Hidden 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S
rachelpearce01 20/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Joris.Roulleau 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Scott Bradshaw
jamie d 16/Sep/16 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Lena
lena.drapella 06/Sep/16 2nd
Dale Comley 04/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Charlie Low 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/16 Lead O/S
FredTB 01/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/16 2nd
minaturechris 29/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Claire Lee
keithpeck 29/Aug/16 Lead
R Brown 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Danny A
samkat 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Adina, Joe Hiley
JHiley 28/Aug/16 2nd
with Adina , Sameer
Hidden 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
williap 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Jess Carr 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Beni
matt1024 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Chrissy, Luke Doherty
professorcobra 12/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Jack93 05/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Chris WT
Benn k 04/Aug/16 2nd
td72 22/Jul/16 2nd O/S

good route, low in the grade but good bridging all the way

bryan61 22/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Tom D
KeenClimber 21/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Ron
John Bunney 03/Jul/16 Lead
with Charlie
charlietorrance 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Joemanglerocks 03/Jul/16 2nd
TimKnight 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
SenzuBean 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Saw some guys do the start from the boulders (below where the Rockfax topo begins) so decided to do that as well to see if we could do better than a beached whale mantel. Then I was expecting the route to be very pumpy - however it was full of superb rests, and just had a few tricky moves here and there. Very enjoyable :)

with Peter
George Frisby 02/Jul/16 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 02/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Jun/16 2nd β
tyho 24/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with James O Tool
john lynch 24/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
mrteale 20/Jun/16 2nd
with Tom
James-m-h 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with matt hinkley
nigel bassam 17/Jun/16 Lead
with paul
Hidden 02/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/16 2nd
WillAndrew 30/May/16 2nd O/S
with Cara, Matt G
steve_gibbs 30/May/16 2nd O/S
with Ali Scott, Tom Nunns
ali.scott 30/May/16 Lead dog

Stupidly dropped my set of big nuts halfway up; rested on the rope while a set was lowered to me. :(

Leedearden 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead
Droyd 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden 28/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May/16 2nd
Dizz 21/May/16 Lead O/S
with Mike grant
Hidden 14/May/16 2nd
Sarah Black 14/May/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/May/16 2nd
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead
markalmack 02/May/16 Solo O/S
WB 02/May/16 Solo rpt
Hidden 02/May/16 2nd O/S
ruairidhwad ?/May/16 Lead
with Fran Hammond
Amy Sears 30/Apr/16 2nd
matt.stevenson 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
ClimberJimmyB 23/Mar/16 2nd
with Ben Jones
Hidden 06/Mar/16 2nd
Robrossmills 06/Mar/16 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Nice, soft for HVS- the actual groove is the easy bit! Pumpy getting into it on greasy jugs.

callumbtaylor 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S
with Chris Ringrose
adie84 ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
climb62 ??/2016 Lead O/S
with rich
Matt1234 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Found it harder than Army Dreamers

steveprice.exmouth 30/Sep/15 2nd
with Graham Mead
cdpuk 28/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Faffed on steep lower section due to tiredness on the 4th day of climbing!

fizzychewitt 25/Sep/15 Lead
with Phil
Hidden 24/Sep/15 2nd O/S
benwmorgan 06/Sep/15 2nd β
mike.moss 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Rollo 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Did a slightly ridiculous start on the left which was hard. The rest was fine

Hidden 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Palindrome 31/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/15 2nd O/S
JHiley 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Pretty steady compared to other HVS routes of this style.

with Krzysztof, Nina
joem 28/Aug/15 Lead G/U
FelixL 28/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with joem
Scooter Young 27/Aug/15 2nd
Rob Rocket 27/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Dilwat 14/Aug/15 Lead O/S
SurferStan 14/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Dilwat
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 07/Aug/15 2nd
steve.warrington 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Alison Cairns 17/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Almost did the E1 up the LH crack by mistake! Disconcertingly windy.

with Ian C, Abi
JamesWilliams 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Bren
Hidden 03/Jul/15 2nd O/S
james.slater 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Amazing position in the top groove!

tobydunford 07/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Harry Martin
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
james1978 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with pam
Hidden 05/Jun/15 Lead
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 05/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Dunx 26/May/15 2nd
with Jon Gupta, Jake Thompsett
hotfeet 21/May/15 2nd
Hidden 19/May/15 Lead O/S
jimmatthews 19/May/15 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 19/May/15 Lead O/S
bryce.dorin 17/May/15 Lead O/S
with Katie
Monster 13/May/15 -
admackie 11/May/15 Lead G/U

a wild ride

with andy
Andy Peak 1 11/May/15 2nd

Held a big fall after Andy Mc fell off after pulling a hold off in the wet:-)

hlegge 04/May/15 2nd
with Dan Gyi
DanielGyi 04/May/15 Lead O/S
SEDaniels 04/May/15 2nd O/S
with Hamish Legge, Dan Gyi
M_Robinson 03/May/15 Lead O/S
with Mike Gee
Richard Kendrick ?/May/15 2nd O/S
with Tim Johnston
Kris2fa 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Found it quite steep and intimidating but jugs where you need them. Quite polished but doesn't detract from the climbing much. Great route!

Hidden 17/Apr/15 Solo O/S
duncan 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Dani Wolf
CRiddiford 06/Apr/15 2nd
Jake Young 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
robgixer 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Phil Baxter
Hidden ?/Apr/15 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/Apr/15 Lead
with Robin Brooke
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
youwillfindjimbo 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Ely
FlavioL1989 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Jamie Everitt 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
TomRiddelsdell 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic route after the unprotected moves off of the boulder

islandlynx 13/Sep/14 2nd

Great climb, perhaps spoiled by the slightly sketchy start. Worth getting past this though

Hidden ?/Sep/14 2nd
steve-grigg 31/Aug/14 Lead
David Maddison 31/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead
Matt77 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Tricky start. Really pleasant after that.

Binder 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Harri K
RyanOsborne 23/Aug/14 2nd
John Brayshaw 22/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Erica
John Nuttall 22/Aug/14 Lead
with Elisabeth
erica 22/Aug/14 2nd
with John
Duncan Campbell 17/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with GuyVG
Wood for Trees 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S

very good, for a corner.

Steven Carter 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Andy Chubb 08/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Steep and a bit intimidating from the ground but don't be put off, it"s got jugs all the way and you could place an entire rack of gear on it

with Nick Gregory
luke glaister 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

The start is fun.... then moving up on jugs and great gear till a long reach is needed. I down climbed to rest 3 times. Looked at my great gear and just went for it. More jugs and bomber gear is the reward. Bridge when ever u can. Makes it a lot easier. 2**s

casey johns 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/14 2nd O/S
3 Names 01/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Harri777 ?/Aug/14 Lead
with George M
Paula Ryan ?/Aug/14 Lead
with Robin Brooke
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead
Danstephens 01/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with maddie sweetman
Maddie 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Pleased to get straight on it. A bit steep but easy enough to bridge it all

with Dan S
Rob84 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Chris James
tgeh 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with imogene
ifletcher 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with tgeh
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Ollie B 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with B.Brewer
Dan Geh 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Paddy
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd
FelixPeterken 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Very memorable climb, first "proper" HVS lead. managed to get knee bars galore in the lower, more awkward section, but the upper corner was also fun and, in places, technical.

with AndrewP
AndrewP 26/May/14 2nd O/S
spragglerocks 24/May/14 2nd O/S
Lumbering Oaf 24/May/14 Lead O/S

Excellent

Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
BFG 02/May/14 Lead
The Grist 21/Apr/14 2nd
Becky E 21/Apr/14 2nd

Another steep and awkward start. Great route.

with Andrea
PaulTanton 21/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Very wet

hazeysunshine 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Ann B
Abi Chard 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Ian
Murilo Lessa 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S

The challenge is to do the start in good style without wedging in the crack/roof.

with Lee Harisson
Big Lee 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Ended up lying flat under the initial horizontal break after manteling. Fortunately able to shuffle left in order to stand up. Crux was probably gaining the corner but too nothing strenuous with some good bridging. Big holds nearly all the way. Very pleasant. Maybe better than Army Dreamers (although felt slightly easier). Gear was excellent.

Jim Slater 19/Apr/14 2nd rpt

Good lead from Maia.

with Maia
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
CharlieMack 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Few loose holds at the top. But amazing route.

with Alice, Jen Maxfield
pftom 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Dan0Me 13/Mar/14 2nd
with James S
James S 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with dan
Ed morris 08/Mar/14 2nd rpt
with Adam Bevan
rosiehawker ??/2014 2nd O/S
with Tom Grady
mike mo ??/2014 -
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
Cheese Monkey 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Wet but still excellent

with Vienna
MarkRoe 07/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Luke W Edwards 07/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Dibdawg 12/Oct/13 2nd rpt
with Richard Lade
gjd 28/Sep/13 2nd rpt
with Hutch
gurumed 28/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Kenny
catrin289 01/Sep/13 2nd
Liam Ingram 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd
rich_hw 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
MartinWilliams87 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with ross garfoot
RM199 17/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 17/Aug/13 2nd
nickstephens 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
gg4419 13/Aug/13 2nd

Be careful on the start.

Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead rpt
mikecollins 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead
Stone Muppet 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Great route but I'd forgotten how bad the start is. Ended up caving along the break this time!

with ah
Joe Innes 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Drew
Hidden 11/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Alpenglow 11/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Greasy and slightly scary.

with Ben S
joese7en ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with James M
Jonny Nick 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with eleytim
Tim Rodgers 24/May/13 Lead
Hidden 13/May/13 2nd
vinspin 13/May/13 Lead rpt
with GerM
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd O/S
burto 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with hertha
Sophie Nunn 04/May/13 2nd rpt
with Floris
Sidekick 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
dj hannaford 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Tom colquhoun
MoWalker3 12/Apr/13 -
with Cormac
Thunderthighsontheloose 30/Mar/13 2nd
Mike_Hayes 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
catty_9 02/Mar/13 2nd
with Alistair Docherty
VPJB ??/2013 -
Sarah Black ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Jillybean 29/Oct/12 2nd
with Brad
msoldn 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Wild route, maybe even a tad better than Army Dreamers with less polish

with Edwin
Hidden 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Nice juggy climbing with plenty of bridging rests - just what I needed after tiring myself out on the Butcher. Came in from way left at the start.

with Emily
HarryB 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ross
gjd 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Mark V
tim.fairhall 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 31/Aug/12 2nd O/S
JamesRich 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S

awesome route! All of it was pretty wet though

stuaart 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kat Torr, Thomas Smith
thomasaneurinsmith 20/Aug/12 2nd
with Katherine Torr, Stuart Reeves
Quarryboy 20/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Direct start felt very greasy and much more like 5b but once in the upper grove the climbing eases a lot and turns into a rather pleasant severe.

Stanners 20/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Another solid lead from the James meister. Found this quite hard with the direct start. Especially as it was a tad greasy. Didn't delete the footage of this one!

Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
mattyork2 11/Aug/12 Lead

Had forgotten leading this before. Got on it after backing off another HVS and then a VS. Nice bridging.

Ian Broome 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Simon
alastairbegley 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
petellis 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Didymus 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Gwen
Rick Ashton 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Robert Drynda
Louise Hall 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Coops_13 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Bry 02/Jun/12 Lead β
Patrick Hill ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mes32 27/May/12 2nd O/S
with Chris
chrisallan 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead rpt
w-watson 19/May/12 Lead
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd O/S
martinazando 12/May/12 Lead O/S

start and getting in the groove was the hardest

with Charlotte
dan gibson 07/May/12 2nd rpt
with richard lade
Kyuzo 06/May/12 -
hrgcb 06/May/12 -
with Virgil Scott
alasdair19 ?/May/12 -
andyjirvin 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Lovely route though the start is a bit awkward and not really in keeping with the rest of the route. Once through the initial bulge it becomes lovely reasonably sustained bridging. Never desperate and with plenty of gear. Still, for someone leading steady HVS probably should have warmed up on something slightly easier for my first visit to the steep Pembroke limestone!

Hidden 11/Apr/12 2nd O/S
ritchierich 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
vinspin 10/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with sammy
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead
tomB 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Matt Roper, Tim Griffin
Julie Carroll 08/Apr/12 2nd
with Tristan Graham
tobydunford 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
pembrokeshirecaver 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
louby 07/Apr/12 2nd
Dean177 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
chris_B 06/Apr/12 Lead
Richard James Edmunds ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Lenny 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with John
keith leonard 10/Mar/12 -
Hidden ?/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
hrgcb ??/2012 -
with Virgil Scott
alan moore ??/2012 -

Quite hard.

Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
w-watson ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
clams ??/2012 Lead
with Sean
Hidden 05/Nov/11 2nd rpt
eburki1 20/Oct/11 2nd O/S
yekko 20/Oct/11 2nd dog
dpmUK 14/Oct/11 2nd RP
victim of mathematics 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant.

with Dan
climbingpixie 14/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Good climbing after a tricky start.

with Andy
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/11 2nd
Colin Scotchford 30/Sep/11 2nd
David Kay 30/Sep/11 2nd
Batt 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Lovely sustained bridging

with Mel
Hoyes 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with David K
Rob84 30/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Rob Adie, Chris Ashton
d_meacher 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
vanderz 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Katya 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 27/Aug/11 Lead
liamoloughlin 27/Aug/11 2nd
Bry 27/Aug/11 Lead β
with Mike
smolders 27/Aug/11 2nd
with Tracey T
DubyaJamesDubya 26/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
CRiddiford 26/Aug/11 2nd
with Mark
mark20 26/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Rob84 22/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Jess P, Mike Thomas
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Jams Crwca 10/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Lee
Jess patel ?/Aug/11 2nd
tonanf ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with john sun
Ian Jones 27/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Roger Benton
Tom Colquhoun 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with bleggs, mick
Hidden 23/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Jim, Si
ojp 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing bottom was a little scary with greasy holds

with Jim, Dave
Jams Crwca 05/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Had backed off this years ago as 2nd!! Bridging technique will prevent any pumpyness

with Roy
clipskipper 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Direct ascent - E1 5a. Nice steady route, with a good crux section - positive holds and good gear

with Davey Boy
pebbles 31/May/11 2nd

the most slippery polished horror ever. would not go near this on lead with an extra long bargepole. neither of us did the proper start, though the jamming crack to the left was quite a good substitute I thought

with guido
bigdrew 28/May/11 2nd O/S
with Si
Si dH 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with Andy
mikelaing ?/May/11 2nd
with Ian Whitehead
Little AndyH 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
vinspin 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Great climbing all the way 3 stars for me!

with sammy
spidey 25/Apr/11 Lead
squicky 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Best route of the trip

with spidey
simonf 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Simon, Chris
Mark Kemball 23/Apr/11 2nd

A chance meeting at Mrs Weston's lead to a great day's climbing. Thanks Jules.

with Jules McKim
dan gibson 21/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with richard lade
Hidden 18/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S
HeatherF 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Super polished and a bit squirmy at the top but good fun

Duncan Campbell 03/Apr/11 2nd

Nice, but polished.

sam820 13/Mar/11 2nd
with Noe
AlistairB 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Lisa
LisaA 13/Mar/11 2nd O/S
lanky_bastard 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Should've read the guide book better. Did half the E1 before realising and moved back to the HVS

NoeD 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Paul Boggis ??/2011 Lead
Elliot Carrington ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Tristan Pollitt
nickcanute ??/2011 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
matt.woodfield 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Edd Reed 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Donna Mawson
misskebab 10/Oct/10 2nd
with Edd Reed
Hidden 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Oliver Sherman 26/Sep/10 2nd
with Deniz Sumengen
DaNo123 30/Aug/10 2nd
with steve
John Brayshaw 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Great climb, crux for me was moves up into final groove

with Chris
chris skipton 29/Aug/10 2nd
liamoloughlin 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
3 Names 28/Aug/10 2nd
Owen Pinch 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Different Steve 28/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Ala, Dan
drcorbasisgod 27/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd
Oliver Sherman 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Reed
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd rpt
catblack 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Reds 12/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/10 2nd O/S
andy dunn 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S

bit of a thuggy/ugly start to get onto the ledge - once out some really great bridging moves up the groove

with Alan
irish paul 01/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Jim Slater 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
RobRock84 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Steep start.

with Adam Bevan
ian d f 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 24/Jun/10 2nd
with Ian
metal arms 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
thetradlad 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Steffen Cruz
mikeyg 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Laurence Everitt
Laurence Everitt 14/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/10 2nd O/S
gnc760 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S

E1 Variation

with James Kay
Dave89 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Fat Al
Alan100 05/Jun/10 2nd

Nice steady bridging. Can get an extra few meters if you start at low tide.

Steffen Cruz ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Danhan 31/May/10 Lead
Dan_Carroll 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with Dan Hancock
teflonpete 15/May/10 2nd β
with Tom
spacey 14/May/10 Lead
Paul Evans 14/May/10 2nd
with spacey
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 02/May/10 Lead O/S
Chi Cheng 02/May/10 2nd O/S
davefount 01/May/10 Lead O/S
theotherpetehill 01/May/10 Lead O/S
alitamlit 01/May/10 2nd
with Dave
koalapie 24/Apr/10 2nd β
Bob Loblaw 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 17/Apr/10 Lead
with Mark
Helen Gibson 13/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Richard
mattyork2 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 04/Apr/10 2nd O/S

great climb - only narrowly beaten to best of the weekend by bludgeon

with gary burgess
Byronius Maximus 03/Apr/10 2nd
Twisty 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Really nice for a bridging route. Can adopt a pretty sick traditional climbing style.

with Byron Buck
Arcarn 21/Mar/10 2nd β
with Rob, Paul
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
benkelsey 16/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd
Paul Bowen 27/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Sep/09 Lead O/S
davidwright 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with MJP
MJP 31/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Misha 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd
Chris Craggs 21/Aug/09 -

The start is butch and slippery. Easier above.

with Colin Binks
Shauna 17/Aug/09 2nd rpt
with Steve
Irn Bruce 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Very nice climb, well protected with nuts throughout and nice bridging up the groove.

scorpia97 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Paul
lukea 15/Aug/09 2nd
with Nathan M
hepitt 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Phillipa Arding
Aaron Lines ?/Aug/09 Lead
with simon
Hidden 09/Jul/09 Lead β
Sophie Nunn 06/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Shauna 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jules
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 19/Jun/09 2nd
with GF
Sam W 18/Jun/09 Lead
Bux 31/May/09 Lead rpt
with Dave Simpson
lukea 29/May/09 Lead O/S
with dan
Leelogs 23/May/09 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 22/May/09 -
Kirill 02/May/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/May/09 2nd
nic42 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Jack
alek 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Martin Lane
Hidden 02/May/09 2nd O/S
joehanks61 02/May/09 -
with Guy Reid
karly54 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Peter Goodwin
Hidden 10/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead rpt
irish paul 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Ed morris 20/Feb/09 Lead β
with arthur
Aaron Lines ??/2009 Lead
mynyddresident ??/2009 2nd
Ally Smith ??/2009 Lead
Richard Hession 29/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Stu
Rob84 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Rich Patterson
Hidden 22/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 22/Sep/08 Lead
morganator 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with James Hall
Hidden 13/Aug/08 Lead O/S
eagleopus 02/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with Gareth
Danos 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Andras
Bob M 14/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
Ramon Marin 25/May/08 2nd O/S
with Gerry Sheehy
RocknRoll 24/May/08 Lead O/S

Didn't present any problems. Felt more like VS but I started on the ledge indicated in the Rockfax miniguide and I have since been advised that the climb to the ledge from the bottom is the HVS bit.

with Ramon Marin Martinez
riddle 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
Hidden 24/May/08 2nd dog
Hidden 12/May/08 Lead O/S
mrtom 03/May/08 Lead O/S
eagleopus 03/May/08 2nd O/S
with Martin Skinner
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
jl 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Penny
Docent 06/Oct/07 2nd
with stecu
Hidden 01/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/07 2nd β
AlexRenshaw 07/Jul/07 Lead
with Thomas Renshaw, Ted Lister
johnboyrevel ?/Jul/07 Lead
with Faye
Hidden 17/Jun/07 Lead rpt
Ramon Marin 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Gilbert
Ramon Marin 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Gilbert
Ramon Marin 09/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Kirill 28/May/07 2nd
with Ed Snelson, Pete Horn
Tim W 20/May/07 2nd rpt
with Dylan Tomlinson
JPGR 07/May/07 2nd
with Justin Adams
Geras 06/May/07 Lead O/S

did a bit of a belly flop, into the firts break from the step up from the boulder. a bit ungainly but effective.

with Ion
Billg ?/May/07 -
Andrew1 29/Apr/07 Lead
with Andy Lewington
Hidden 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Pythonist 09/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Beautiful climb

with Adamski
Katya 08/Apr/07 2nd
with Iain
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd
Tim W 31/Mar/07 Lead rpt
with Crispin
Tim W 24/Mar/07 2nd rpt
Pete Horn ??/2007 2nd O/S
with Ed and Kirill
willjones ??/2007 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
RichS-Bristol ??/2007 -
chris wyatt ??/2007 Lead rpt
with Dave Reaney
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
drysori ??/2007 Lead
andysroom ?/Nov/06 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Aug/06 2nd O/S
colin milton 21/Aug/06 2nd
with fenclimb
Hidden 21/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
waltersp ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
david morse ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with chris todd
Hidden 09/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
Ian Hinkins ?/Jul/06 -
Mike H 29/May/06 2nd
with Jamie Smith
tom.e 28/May/06 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
feilx 27/May/06 2nd
with Jon
Tim W 14/May/06 2nd O/S
leerybunny 14/May/06 Lead O/S
chris sm 01/May/06 2nd O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Ben1983 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
ewen ?/May/06 -
John Kettle ?/May/06 Lead
with ewen
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd
cmsg 18/Mar/06 Lead O/S

Nice. Not hard. Was carrying too few large nuts, though, so some less-than-ideal cam placements.

with Llewelyn Thomas
nathanmanc ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
John Kettle ??/2006 -
jfreeman ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Nick Gillet
duncana 27/Aug/05 2nd

Belly flopped onto ledge below overhang at start, nice after that

with Pippa Archer
Sam and will 17/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Anthony Bennett
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 15/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Rebecca
richgibson ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with John
Chad123 ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Huw
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
Stefan Kruger 31/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Sarah Porter
brian watson 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Garreth
Ramon Marin 20/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Dave Reaney
Mark Davies PK ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Ady Short
SteveM 30/Apr/05 Lead
with Chris
chrishedgehog 30/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with LMC
givemetea ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Ann Chong
reg_measures 27/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with steve burdett
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Ratfeeder 05/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Phil
dicky79 ?/Sep/04 2nd O/S
with Vic Odell
Smelly Fox ?/Aug/04 2nd
with Mark Button
Ally Smith 06/Jul/04 2nd
with Dave Emms
BenTiffin ?/Jul/04 -
with Gareth Field
Boxy 12/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Mick
ASchwirtz 05/Jun/04 2nd O/S
Andy S 22/May/04 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 02/May/04 2nd O/S
lukea 09/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Al
fyfee8a ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
al99 ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with James Byrne
mikeyjbs 23/Aug/03 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 21/Jul/03 -
Hidden 19/Jul/03 Lead O/S
PaulTanton ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/03 2nd
Digger 25/May/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
Hidden 14/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/02 Lead O/S
haydng ??/2002 -
Stone Muppet ??/2002 -
PaulTclimbing ??/2002 -
with Johnjames, Trelewis gang, Neville, Adrian, Neil, Howell graham
cem 27/Aug/01 2nd rpt
with Neil Northrop
Different Steve ?/May/01 Lead O/S

1st HVS lead

with Rupert Holbrook
LC ?/Mar/01 Lead O/S
dickypips 05/Feb/00 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead
with Karen Ghiselli
cornishben ??/2000 2nd O/S
with Andy Connor
timreynolds 25/Sep/99 Lead
with Gary Jackson
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Aug/99 Lead
with Richard Bower
alex_th 19/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Dave Lacey
cem 01/May/99 Lead O/S
with Gordon Carder
nickdonohue 01/May/99 Lead
with James Edwards
Rog Wilko ?/May/99 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Chris Reid 01/Apr/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 -
DafSWMC ?/Nov/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/98 Lead O/S
Scott McRae 03/May/98 Lead O/S

Very sunny.

with Claire Paton
Marti999 ??/1998 Lead
Just Another Dave ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Reds 27/Sep/97 2nd
with Sezer
chris sm 27/Aug/97 2nd β
with Dom Goodridge
IanGilbertJones 30/Mar/97 2nd O/S
Steve Long ??/1997 Lead
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
NeilGriffiths 21/Oct/96 -
with Neil Nussey
michael burrows 06/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with mark ryan
Hidden ?/May/96 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/96 Lead
Tim Sparrow ??/1996 -
with Scoob
Paul Boardman ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Iain Boardman
Colin Edwards ??/1995 Lead O/S
Colin Edwards 23/Aug/94 Lead
with Snoz
shoulders 12/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with MONKEY
shoulders 12/Jul/94 Lead
with MONKEY
pingora 04/May/94 -
with Shaun R
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 -
Iain Thow 06/Jun/93 Lead

Surely one of the best single pitches anywhere at any grade. I was still buzzing when I got back to Reading!

with John ?
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Chris Ellis 10/Sep/92 Lead
with Rick Kerr
Mark Kemball 28/Jul/92 Lead
with Alison Dorey
jfletcher 09/Jun/92 Solo
whispering nic ?/Jun/92 -
with Blaggy
Hidden 16/Apr/92 Lead
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Guy
Roget 08/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 03/Jul/91 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/91 Lead
mikej 28/May/91 Lead
with Mike Byles
Hidden 05/May/91 Lead O/S
auld al ?/Apr/91 2nd O/S
Dave Rumney 07/May/90 -
Hidden ?/May/90 Lead O/S
michael burrows 15/Apr/90 2nd
with steve williams
Steve Crowe 15/Apr/90 2nd O/S
Bullybones ??/1990 -
gingernick ??/1990 Lead
with Chris Patilano
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Chris Ellis 14/Nov/89 2nd
with Ernie Horrocks
Nick Biven 29/May/89 2nd
with Ray Jenkins, Rich Whitwell
Andy Say 29/May/89 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/89 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 02/Apr/89 Solo
phardman 19/Mar/89 Lead O/S
with Roger Gibbs
Jelly Mould Surfer ??/1989 2nd O/S
with al
craig h 03/Nov/88 2nd O/S

Was his 2nd ever lead! Didn't know how to set up a belay, so rolled a joint instead.

with Dave the Veg
AlexRenshaw 21/Oct/88 2nd
with Simon Donowho
michael burrows 30/May/88 Lead O/S
with steve williams
rob.grafton ??/1988 AltLd
with barry maybank
Hidden ??/1988 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 31/Oct/87 Lead
Hidden 09/May/87 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/87 2nd β
Dave Musgrove 17/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with David
steve taylor ?/Apr/87 2nd
with Nicky Beresford
Hidden 14/Feb/87 Lead
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Nigel Coe ??/1987 -
Hidden ??/1987 -
hazeysunshine ?/Jun/86 Lead O/S
with Phil
wynaptomos ?/Jun/86 Lead O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer ??/1986 2nd O/S
with al
Neil R 28/Jul/85 Lead
with Sharon
andybirtwistle 08/Apr/85 2nd
with Paul Fairbrother
William Robertson ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Emily
GuyM ??/1985 -
scree ?/Apr/84 -
Nigel Bond 28/Aug/83 Lead
with John
tapley 08/Aug/83 AltLd
with Alison Tapley
Martin Bennett 05/Apr/83 -
with Cec
Mark Kemball 04/Apr/83 2nd

Variation

with Dave McCann
Nigel Coe 30/Aug/82 Lead
with Steve Portnoi
babymoac ??/1982 -
with Jerry Codling
jon 20/Jun/81 Lead
with Elaine
Hidden 31/Dec/76 Lead
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 106
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 99
Votes cast 103
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set