21m.

Rockfax Description
To the right of the open corner is a blunt arete which is undercut on its right-hand side. This route follows the crack to the left of the arete. Not very well named, thankfully. © Rockfax

FA. B.Newman 07/Apr/1980

Feedback

UserDateNotes
chris j 2 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If you can jam you know it's in the bag as soon as you sink the first one into the crack. If you can't... Gear's ok anyway, lots of big wires, some cams, monster thread.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you can jam you know it's in the bag as soon as you sink the first one into the crack. If you can't... Gear's ok anyway, lots of big wires, some cams, monster thread.
Furzy Sleight 22 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Standard E0
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Standard E0
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I didn't think this was terribly hard or poorly protected for an HVS. Have you ever tried The Sloth? Conditions were good when I lead it, but anyone used to the overhangs at indoor walls would be ok for strength on this.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I didn't think this was terribly hard or poorly protected for an HVS. Have you ever tried The Sloth? Conditions were good when I lead it, but anyone used to the overhangs at indoor walls would be ok for strength on this.
John Alcock 25 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Watched someone climb this with a rack of cams. Nearly all shifted or fell out. Pembroke cracks aren't parallel.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watched someone climb this with a rack of cams. Nearly all shifted or fell out. Pembroke cracks aren't parallel.
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I think this one is really conditions-dependent. I've done it when it was dirty & seeping and found it desperately pumpy, but in good condition it's a nice climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think this one is really conditions-dependent. I've done it when it was dirty & seeping and found it desperately pumpy, but in good condition it's a nice climb.
John2 8 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Standard HVS 5A if you can jam. Well protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Standard HVS 5A if you can jam. Well protected.
john horscroft 21 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Poss E1?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Poss E1?
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ClimbingAlex 14 Jul Lead O/S Gopping
Gopping
Matt Magecha 14 Jul 2nd Queefed off this twice, but Al came to the rescue! Still found the move tough on second, the grease was strong with this one!
Queefed off this twice, but Al came to the rescue! Still found the move tough on second, the grease was strong with this one!
ian d f 30 Jun 2nd rpt
Hidden 30 Jun Lead O/S
professorcobra 29 Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Jun Lead
Lenny 27 May Lead O/S
with Dizz
with Dizz
Dizz 27 May 2nd O/S
with leon
with leon
myrddinmuse 26 May Lead O/S Harsh for HVS! Or maybe I'm shit. Yo yo'd up and down after placing the first piece but really all it took was for me to man up and go for it. Would've been less scary had Tom had any cams bigger than #1 but hey, it was great anyway. Thanks for the encouragement Tom!
with Tom Luddington the Magician
Harsh for HVS! Or maybe I'm shit. Yo yo'd up and down after placing the first piece but really all it took was for me to man up and go for it. Would've been less scary had Tom had any cams bigger than #1 but hey, it was great anyway. Thanks for the encouragement Tom!
with Tom Luddington the Magician
Dale 25 May Lead O/S Tryed the e2 to the right couldn't hold the soapy hold to get over the lip. So down climbing and took the gear out. I escaped up this hvs. This felt the hardest thing a did all day maybe tierd and it had a lot of jamming in it which just didn't work due to the soapyness. Like trying to jam two soapy bath tubs.a very good rout steep and pumpy.
Tryed the e2 to the right couldn't hold the soapy hold to get over the lip. So down climbing and took the gear out. I escaped up this hvs. This felt the hardest thing a did all day maybe tierd and it had a lot of jamming in it which just didn't work due to the soapyness. Like trying to jam two soapy bath tubs.a very good rout steep and pumpy.
Hidden 19 Apr Lead rpt
Pete_Frost 4 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Steeper than it looks. Protection wasn't plentiful at the start but it soon got better. Enjoyed this.
Steeper than it looks. Protection wasn't plentiful at the start but it soon got better. Enjoyed this.
Trickett 25 Aug, 2018 2nd RP
with Cheeks
with Cheeks
JulioFranco 25 Aug, 2018 Lead
Cheeks 25 Aug, 2018 Lead
Felix la shat 24 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Freddy
with Freddy
Lukas_F 19 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Rebecca, Pauline
with Rebecca, Pauline
khalidq 19 Aug, 2018 2nd rpt
Hidden 19 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Paul Sagar 19 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Had an absolute nightmare. Utterly terrified in the lower bouldery section. Felt greasy and insecure and couldn’t get the gear in without getting pumped. Had to keep downclimbing. Eventually found my balls and sorted it out. Thank God Thread at two third height settled me down. Very committing for HVS. Need to practice trad climbing on overhangs and putting gear in when pumped....
with khalidq
Had an absolute nightmare. Utterly terrified in the lower bouldery section. Felt greasy and insecure and couldn’t get the gear in without getting pumped. Had to keep downclimbing. Eventually found my balls and sorted it out. Thank God Thread at two third height settled me down. Very committing for HVS. Need to practice trad climbing on overhangs and putting gear in when pumped....
with khalidq
Fakey Rocks 15 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S Might have had issues leading this, jugs but steep, greasy , insecure feeling most of the way.
Might have had issues leading this, jugs but steep, greasy , insecure feeling most of the way.
Luke90 12 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Top end of HVS, I think. Strenuous to protect in the bottom half. Mostly lovely jugs but not for every single move. Good fun. Worth the star CC give it.
Top end of HVS, I think. Strenuous to protect in the bottom half. Mostly lovely jugs but not for every single move. Good fun. Worth the star CC give it.
Hidden 12 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
John Nuttall ?Aug, 2018 2nd
with Elisabeth
with Elisabeth
annak 17 Jul, 2018 Lead dog ARGH fell off multiple times on lead and afterwards on second. Just got so pumped fiddling with gear and couldn't work out the crux.
with Big Lee
ARGH fell off multiple times on lead and afterwards on second. Just got so pumped fiddling with gear and couldn't work out the crux.
with Big Lee
Big Lee 17 Jul, 2018 Lead β Led on Anna's pre-placed gear at the start after she had failed to lead it. Sustained steep climbing in the lower half of the route.
with annak
Led on Anna's pre-placed gear at the start after she had failed to lead it. Sustained steep climbing in the lower half of the route.
with annak
David Staples 19 May, 2018 2nd O/S
Ffyona 5 May, 2018 2nd
Hidden 5 May, 2018 Lead O/S
monsteratt ?May, 2018 Lead rpt
with Bat Girl
with Bat Girl
josefft 31 Mar, 2018 2nd O/S
with Graham Woolven
with Graham Woolven
Hidden ??, 2018 -
neilmclean 10 Aug, 2017 Lead
with Al Randall
with Al Randall
Hidden 29 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
goddamm7 17 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
ian bryant 17 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
goddamm7 17 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Richard Kendrick 16 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Paul, Luke
with Paul, Luke
Dan Vaj 16 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
with khalidq
with khalidq
khalidq 16 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt
with Dan Vaj
with Dan Vaj
goddamm7 16 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 16 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
FelixPeterken 4 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Good practice for hanging on your arms, reasonably sustained after the overhanging section
with AndrewP
Good practice for hanging on your arms, reasonably sustained after the overhanging section
with AndrewP
AndrewP 4 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Jake Young 19 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Hard Work
Hard Work
Robb Bert 27 Mar, 2017 2nd
with Steve George
with Steve George
Hidden ??, 2017 -
simibrown 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd
with andre
with andre
CharlieMack 6 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Very wet throughout. Good holds though
with Wendy
Very wet throughout. Good holds though
with Wendy
FredTB 1 Sep, 2016 2nd
Hidden 1 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
khalidq 15 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Bilbo 14 Aug, 2016 - First route of the day and more than a little hung-over. Pleased I wasn't leading. Humid conditions made it quite greasy and the bottom felt like E1
with Twid Turner
First route of the day and more than a little hung-over. Pleased I wasn't leading. Humid conditions made it quite greasy and the bottom felt like E1
with Twid Turner
papashango 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Twid, Nigel
with Twid, Nigel
Jack93 5 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Chris WT
with Chris WT
td72 22 Jul, 2016 Lead G/U Bottom is hard and steep, hard to place gear and felt greasy in the morning
with bryan61
Bottom is hard and steep, hard to place gear and felt greasy in the morning
with bryan61
bryan61 22 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
with td72
with td72
KeenClimber 22 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
with Ron
with Ron
Martin Bagshaw 1 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Steeper than it looked from the ground
with Ed Green
Steeper than it looked from the ground
with Ed Green
mrteale 20 Jun, 2016 2nd
with Tom
with Tom
Sarah Black 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 18 Mar, 2016 2nd
with Kate
with Kate
Hidden 28 Sep, 2015 Lead RP
burto 24 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Troy
with Troy
Hidden 2 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
steve.warrington 2 Aug, 2015 2nd β
Hidden 27 Jul, 2015 2nd
Ian Jones 27 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Andy Chubb 23 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Committing first few moves. To stop and place gear or keep going until you can rest...
with Nick Gregory
Committing first few moves. To stop and place gear or keep going until you can rest...
with Nick Gregory
luke384 19 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Mattlamb90 19 Jul, 2015 2nd β
JamesWilliams 10 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
with Bren
with Bren
clairejane ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Mare of a holiday. Finally got on a route. Ace, deserves more stars.
Mare of a holiday. Finally got on a route. Ace, deserves more stars.
pipof747 26 May, 2015 Lead O/S
duncan 19 Apr, 2015 Lead rpt
LJKing 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Paul Clarkson
with Paul Clarkson
Hidden 17 Apr, 2015 Solo O/S
mike lawrence? 15 Apr, 2015 2nd
Graeme Hammond 7 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S very enjoyable 2**s on almost any other crag
with Chris Hindley
very enjoyable 2**s on almost any other crag
with Chris Hindley
DubyaJamesDubya 6 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Anthony Barison
with Anthony Barison
NuclearNev ??, 2015 -
gurumed 26 Sep, 2014 Lead RP Much nicer in the dry.
with gjd
Much nicer in the dry.
with gjd
gjd 26 Sep, 2014 2nd rpt
with gurumed
with gurumed
Hidden 22 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 2014 2nd
Hidden 1 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
3 Names 1 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Slick 29 Jun, 2014 Lead Hard to tell as I was tired but probably the most pumpy HVS route I've done!
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Egons Issy
Hard to tell as I was tired but probably the most pumpy HVS route I've done!
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Egons Issy
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 2nd
ian d f 23 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
stevorobs3 23 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
monsteratt 16 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S With Dan's gear in the bottom half. Felt pretty tough for the grade.
with Dan Fairbank
With Dan's gear in the bottom half. Felt pretty tough for the grade.
with Dan Fairbank
Hidden 16 Jun, 2014 2nd dog
VPJB 27 May, 2014 Lead
tobydunford 25 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
with Harry Martin
Becky E 19 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S Better than the name suggests.
with Andrea
Better than the name suggests.
with Andrea
Thunderthighsontheloose 18 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 18 Apr, 2014 Lead
gjd 26 Sep, 2013 2nd rpt
with Hutch
with Hutch
gurumed 26 Sep, 2013 Lead dog Sand bag pile of shite.
with Kenny
Sand bag pile of shite.
with Kenny
metal arms 31 Aug, 2013 Lead
shoulders 30 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Polished holds and drizzle ...a great combination
with jon shewring, mikeshewring, sharpie
Polished holds and drizzle ...a great combination
with jon shewring, mikeshewring, sharpie
nickstephens 13 Aug, 2013 Lead dog
with gg4419
with gg4419
gg4419 13 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Dilwat 26 Jul, 2013 Lead dog Failed miserably on the start. Found it pretty greasy on this day. Managed it on the second after Nick took over the lead.
with Nick
Failed miserably on the start. Found it pretty greasy on this day. Managed it on the second after Nick took over the lead.
with Nick
nickdonohue 26 Jul, 2013 Lead Ian tried to lead but had to back off. He'd placed 2 bits gear. I then led through.
with Dilwat
Ian tried to lead but had to back off. He'd placed 2 bits gear. I then led through.
with Dilwat
Hidden 18 May, 2013 Lead O/S
duncan 7 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 7 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
willoates 30 Mar, 2013 Solo O/S great climbing for the grade!
great climbing for the grade!
VPJB ??, 2013 -
jcw ??, 2013 -
Hidden 7 Oct, 2012 Lead rpt
gjd 20 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Mark V
with Mark V
Hidden 31 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
stuaart 20 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Kat Torr, thomasaneurinsmith
with Kat Torr, thomasaneurinsmith
thomasaneurinsmith 20 Aug, 2012 2nd Thuggy!
with Katherine Torr, Stuart Reeves
Thuggy!
with Katherine Torr, Stuart Reeves
robin_hackney 15 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S Climbed above crazy seas and strong winds. The start felt bold on wet holds.
Climbed above crazy seas and strong winds. The start felt bold on wet holds.
Hidden 15 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
mattyork2 12 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
petellis 12 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 15 Apr, 2012 2nd
Hidden ??, 2012 -
richiebongo ??, 2012 2nd O/S
with Nick Smith
with Nick Smith
annetweddell 2 Oct, 2011 Lead
with Jeff
with Jeff
Kirill 28 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Paul Baxter 28 Aug, 2011 2nd
with Kirill
with Kirill
Tom Colquhoun 23 Aug, 2011 2nd dog
Stanley 30 Jul, 2011 TR O/S
with Cragking, Jack Bradbrook
with Cragking, Jack Bradbrook
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Stanners 30 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S most pumpey HVS I have done.
with Martin Stanfield, Quarryboy
most pumpey HVS I have done.
with Martin Stanfield, Quarryboy
Adam Booth 23 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
edmitchell 23 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
mountain.martin 13 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt Sustained
Sustained
frume 24 May, 2011 2nd O/S pumpy
with Ian
pumpy
with Ian
Hidden 3 May, 2011 Lead rpt
Chi Cheng 1 May, 2011 Lead O/S lead to get out. backed off the year before. felt quite easy this time round
with jfane
lead to get out. backed off the year before. felt quite easy this time round
with jfane
Olli-C 30 Apr, 2011 2nd
Rachel Slater 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Olli-C
with Olli-C
Hidden 21 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
Oliver Sherman 26 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Deniz Sumengen
with Deniz Sumengen
Mr Sparkle 30 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Aug, 2010 2nd
metal arms 29 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Owen Pinch 28 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2010 TR β
Hidden 8 Aug, 2010 TR dog
Sut 31 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Alan100 5 Jun, 2010 Lead Lower section got a bit pumpy. Might have just been a bit of early morning greasiness though. Good route anyway - steep start, juggy and well protected.
Lower section got a bit pumpy. Might have just been a bit of early morning greasiness though. Good route anyway - steep start, juggy and well protected.
Paul Bowen 4 Jun, 2010 2nd
with bec
with bec
Philippa Arding 24 May, 2010 Lead dog
with helen pitt
with helen pitt
hepitt 24 May, 2010 2nd Very hot day! started trying to lead, but hands too hot and sweaty so swapped with Pa, good to second! Very sustained till about 2/3 height!!! Full on but good - will have to come back to this one!
with Phillipa Arding
Very hot day! started trying to lead, but hands too hot and sweaty so swapped with Pa, good to second! Very sustained till about 2/3 height!!! Full on but good - will have to come back to this one!
with Phillipa Arding
Phil PBC 18 May, 2010 Lead dog really steep start and damp, had a real greasy feel to it for the first 20ft.
really steep start and damp, had a real greasy feel to it for the first 20ft.
Hidden 4 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Chi Cheng 3 May, 2010 Lead dnf Reversed to the ground. Saved Onsight of a later date??
Reversed to the ground. Saved Onsight of a later date??
Matthew Gray ?May, 2010 Lead O/S first trad lead!!
first trad lead!!
Hidden ?May, 2010 Lead O/S
Richard Hall 4 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Adam M
with Adam M
TiffTiff 13 Mar, 2010 2nd O/S
with Crazy Tom, Phil
with Crazy Tom, Phil
irish paul 7 Mar, 2010 2nd
with Tim W
with Tim W
Tim W 7 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead dog
RobRock84 9 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
with Robin neath
with Robin neath
Ed morris 20 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S steep!
steep!
trevor macalonan 13 Jun, 2009 2nd β
Hidden 13 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
cem 2 May, 2009 2nd
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Aaron Lines ??, 2009 Lead
nicolat ??, 2009 Lead O/S
morganator 22 Aug, 2008 Solo O/S
haydng 31 May, 2008 Lead rpt
with RMG
with RMG
RMG 31 May, 2008 2nd
with haydng
with haydng
featuresforfeet 5 May, 2007 2nd O/S
with Team Ginger
with Team Ginger
willjones ??, 2007 Lead O/S
chris wyatt ??, 2007 -
janegallwey ??, 2007 2nd
chris j 24 Jun, 2006 2nd rpt
with Doug
with Doug
chris j 1 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with Mark Davies
with Mark Davies
Hidden 29 Jan, 2006 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 Jan, 2006 Lead dog
belay bunny turned bad ??, 2006 -
Hidden 18 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
joe_alexander 8 May, 2005 2nd
with Dave Hope
with Dave Hope
daveayton ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Boxy 12 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
with Mick
with Mick
ASchwirtz 5 Jun, 2004 2nd O/S
Hidden 24 Mar, 2004 Lead
Hammy 10 Aug, 2003 TR
Hidden ?Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2002 -
jfletcher 20 Jun, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1999 -
mikej 1 Oct, 1996 Lead
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
Hidden 19 Apr, 1995 2nd
Hidden 22 Sep, 1994 Lead
Hidden ??, 1994 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ??, 1993 Lead
steveb2006 4 May, 1992 Lead
with Simon Mee, MikePycroft
with Simon Mee, MikePycroft
MikePycroft 4 May, 1992 2nd
MikePycroft 4 May, 1992 2nd
ndm 4 Jun, 1991 Lead
nuts and bolts ?Sep, 1990 -
Hidden ??, 1989 Lead
AlexRenshaw 21 Oct, 1988 Lead
with Simon Donowho, jcw
with Simon Donowho, jcw
Martin Bennett 26 Oct, 1987 -
with Simno
with Simno
Billg 24 Jul, 1987 2nd
with Dave Gregory
with Dave Gregory
andy gittins ??, 1987 -
keefe 15 Feb, 1986 -
wynaptomos ?Feb, 1986 2nd O/S
Dave Musgrove 24 Apr, 1984 Lead
with Kenny Winkworth
with Kenny Winkworth
Nigel Coe 27 Aug, 1983 Lead
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
Mike Owen 8 Apr, 1983 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Martin Bennett 5 Apr, 1983 -
with Cec
with Cec
Hidden 2 Jan, 1983 -
Mark Kemball 9 Apr, 1982 2nd
with Dave Abbey
with Dave Abbey
Hidden 20 Dec, 1981 Lead
Ken Taylor 20 May, 1981 AltLd
with Richard Langthorp
with Richard Langthorp
DonnyDave 10 Jul, 1980 2nd
with Ian Freebie
with Ian Freebie
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 42
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set