UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
A popular route which is often found hard by people who climb it too directly. Start just left of the detached flake on the ledge. Climb up to the bulge then pull round virtually on the arete to gain the finger-traverse which leads back right. Move up and back left to gain the delightful finishing slab. © Rockfax

FA. S.Bancroft, B.Newman 05/Apr/1980.

Ticklists

World Graded List , Becky's ticklist , Soft Touches , 2021

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User Date Notes
david morse 2 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: took a 10m lob. 3 wires ripped. be careful on top wall!!
βeta?
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βeta: took a 10m lob. 3 wires ripped. be careful on top wall!!
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I loved this route, and I felt like it warranted E2 mainly because of the slab near the top which is tricky to protect. The polish lower down is nowhere near as bad - just for example - as that on the start of Sunlover.
βeta?
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βeta: I loved this route, and I felt like it warranted E2 mainly because of the slab near the top which is tricky to protect. The polish lower down is nowhere near as bad - just for example - as that on the start of Sunlover.
John Alcock 25 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nothing like as pleasant as years ago
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βeta: Nothing like as pleasant as years ago
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with a bit of everything - overhang on jugs, some technical climbing at the bulge and then a delicate slab above.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route with a bit of everything - overhang on jugs, some technical climbing at the bulge and then a delicate slab above.

Logged Ascents

1071 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 163
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 153
Votes cast 144
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Deranged

Grade: E2 5b ***
(St. Govan's Head)

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