33m.

Rockfax Description
A steep and taxing pumper. From the ramp on Charisma, follow a crack up and left to a small roof (old peg - other gear available). Pull over this into another crack and continue past a thread to the top. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 04/Jul/1985

Ticklists

Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, The Best of Pembroke, Theo's Pembroke ticklist, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Steve Crowe 6 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The Easy start is hollow and about to collapse. Take care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The Easy start is hollow and about to collapse. Take care.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Adam Lincoln 19 Aug Lead O/S Always thought this was supposed to be an easy E5 but found it quite tricky and pumpy!
with Tyler
Always thought this was supposed to be an easy E5 but found it quite tricky and pumpy!
with Tyler
Hidden 19 Aug 2nd dog
Hidden 19 Aug 2nd O/S
Scott Quinn 19 Aug Lead O/S excellent wall climbing, intense leaving gear at the shield going up to the peg - felt you could clip the ledge but looking back afterwards probably not?
excellent wall climbing, intense leaving gear at the shield going up to the peg - felt you could clip the ledge but looking back afterwards probably not?
Callum Clark 1 Aug 2nd
Alex hall 1 Aug Lead O/S
harry_lewis 20 Jul 2nd rpt
with Jwatson
with Jwatson
Jwatson 20 Jul Lead dog Battled through the grease all the way to top of the crack. Promptly fell off by the thread where it got dry. Nice one Joe.
Battled through the grease all the way to top of the crack. Promptly fell off by the thread where it got dry. Nice one Joe.
Andrew1 13 Jul Lead O/S
with Shannyb
with Shannyb
harry_lewis 13 Jul Lead O/S Maybe dubious as an onsight as i had gear in up to the ramp. very good
with Ed Teale
Maybe dubious as an onsight as i had gear in up to the ramp. very good
with Ed Teale
Hidden 13 Jul 2nd O/S
EmmaAtkinson 10 Jul TR dog
with Rory Brown
with Rory Brown
Hidden 11 May Lead O/S
Richard Kendrick 21 Apr 2nd rpt
with Alice, Frances Bensley
with Alice, Frances Bensley
M_Robinson 21 Apr Lead β Ab-ed down the line to check out the thread and peg first. Totally misread where the crux would be and found those moves desperate
with Brant Rumberger
Ab-ed down the line to check out the thread and peg first. Totally misread where the crux would be and found those moves desperate
with Brant Rumberger
Ed morris 17 Apr Lead rpt Early season repeating.
Early season repeating.
janegallwey 9 Sep, 2018 TR Shunt
Shunt
Matt Cooke 23 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez 16 May, 2018 Lead O/S A little smeggy in places. Price you pay when climbing on a cloudy day. Great route and a nice shiny peg with extension sling in place. 27 years since we were last here at St Govan's !!!!
A little smeggy in places. Price you pay when climbing on a cloudy day. Great route and a nice shiny peg with extension sling in place. 27 years since we were last here at St Govan's !!!!
Tangerine_Kingdom 5 May, 2018 2nd O/S Peg replaced - bomber, almost sport climbing ;)
Peg replaced - bomber, almost sport climbing ;)
Rocky 30 Mar, 2018 2nd dog Ascent style 'with falls/rests (dogged)' doesn't quite accurately describe my actual style on this route. There needs to be an option of 'hauled up'. To be fair, this wasn't entirely my fault as Remus appeared to forge a new line by going direct and foregoing the ramp which is common practice. It was quite humiliating and degrading being yanked up like a living sack of spuds!!! People watching and pointing ... okay this bit was in my head. Didn't really enjoy this route.
Ascent style 'with falls/rests (dogged)' doesn't quite accurately describe my actual style on this route. There needs to be an option of 'hauled up'. To be fair, this wasn't entirely my fault as Remus appeared to forge a new line by going direct and foregoing the ramp which is common practice. It was quite humiliating and degrading being yanked up like a living sack of spuds!!! People watching and pointing ... okay this bit was in my head. Didn't really enjoy this route.
Hidden 30 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Aug, 2017 2nd rpt
Adam24B 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S I love this route, had some much harder moves than I expected but made it through and was pleasantly surprised to find a shiny new peg after the moves off the ramp.
with Kris2fa
I love this route, had some much harder moves than I expected but made it through and was pleasantly surprised to find a shiny new peg after the moves off the ramp.
with Kris2fa
Kris2fa 12 Aug, 2017 2nd dog
with Adam24B
with Adam24B
JendeHoxar 9 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 9 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S #4
with Jumar Jenny
#4
with Jumar Jenny
ian bryant 16 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Richard Kendrick 14 Jun, 2017 Lead β So good!! Abbed down the line to check the gear and then led. First E5
with Luke, Julian
So good!! Abbed down the line to check the gear and then led. First E5
with Luke, Julian
Hidden 14 Jun, 2017 2nd dog
Hidden ??, 2017 -
andyinglis 10 Oct, 2016 2nd
with Murdoch Jamieson
with Murdoch Jamieson
coula1 7 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
pete johnson 13 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
papashango 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
shed_hed 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Pumpy! Feels quite committing leaving the ledge at the start and I nearly backed off. Was hanging around for ages at the start and got pumped, so then had to make a move and shake out and rest my way up until through the steep section!
Pumpy! Feels quite committing leaving the ledge at the start and I nearly backed off. Was hanging around for ages at the start and got pumped, so then had to make a move and shake out and rest my way up until through the steep section!
Billg 2 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Superb.
with Will Calvert
Superb.
with Will Calvert
Hidden 4 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 4 Jun, 2016 Lead G/U Bit of a suspect style; ground-up but on Anna's kit. Anna wanted a go and I had originally asked her to strip it as I wanted to save myself for Darkness at Noon the next day. After watching her do it I was so inspired and worried that connies wouldn't improve for Darkness I asked her to drop the ropes. Should prob have got her to strip it and put my own kit in but oh well...
with Anna G
Bit of a suspect style; ground-up but on Anna's kit. Anna wanted a go and I had originally asked her to strip it as I wanted to save myself for Darkness at Noon the next day. After watching her do it I was so inspired and worried that connies wouldn't improve for Darkness I asked her to drop the ropes. Should prob have got her to strip it and put my own kit in but oh well...
with Anna G
pipof747 26 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 8 May, 2016 Lead dnf Took a pretty good sized lob eyeballing the peg! My last gear was down on the ramp of charisma so was a bit of a sweeping fall, fortunately into space. Was a little silly going for it as it was pretty greasy but didn't want to down climb taking my kit out. Ended up doing that anyway but at least I gave it a go! Will be back for sure.
Took a pretty good sized lob eyeballing the peg! My last gear was down on the ramp of charisma so was a bit of a sweeping fall, fortunately into space. Was a little silly going for it as it was pretty greasy but didn't want to down climb taking my kit out. Ended up doing that anyway but at least I gave it a go! Will be back for sure.
Wendy 8 May, 2016 2nd O/S
with ali k
with ali k
markalmack 2 May, 2016 Lead O/S really enjoyed this. Felt pretty straightforward with no stressfull gear placements
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
really enjoyed this. Felt pretty straightforward with no stressfull gear placements
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Ramon Marin 5 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Saved the onsight for so long, and glad I just went for it. It looks harder than it is, it's actually not that bad. Resting at the break by the tat is a mistake, you get pumped, just moving up one move up the crack gets you amazing finger jams. I thought it was soft
with Douglas Russell
Saved the onsight for so long, and glad I just went for it. It looks harder than it is, it's actually not that bad. Resting at the break by the tat is a mistake, you get pumped, just moving up one move up the crack gets you amazing finger jams. I thought it was soft
with Douglas Russell
D.Russell 5 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
will smith11 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Twisty
with Twisty
Hidden 21 Jul, 2015 Lead
Ed morris 4 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Henry
with Henry
brunomarks 7 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Had climbed this 12yrs previous but a gear rescue prompted the repeat. Very enjoyable! Well protected straightforward pumpy climbing. Good for the sport fit.
with Neil Lowry
Had climbed this 12yrs previous but a gear rescue prompted the repeat. Very enjoyable! Well protected straightforward pumpy climbing. Good for the sport fit.
with Neil Lowry
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 5 Jun, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 2 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 2 Jun, 2015 2nd rpt
NDD 25 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with tony stone
with tony stone
Tom Livingstone 7 Apr, 2015 2nd β
with Oli Grounsell
with Oli Grounsell
Adam Booth 6 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
brices 6 Apr, 2015 Lead RP Wussed out and grabbed the tat first go, route is so good got back on it at the end of the day and did it clean
Wussed out and grabbed the tat first go, route is so good got back on it at the end of the day and did it clean
Ed Booth 6 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Apr, 2015 2nd rpt
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2015 -
nathanlee 16 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Amazing top section!
with Jack Lawledge
Amazing top section!
with Jack Lawledge
soph 22 Aug, 2014 Lead rpt
with Blair Fyffe
with Blair Fyffe
bigie bob 15 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
malx ?Aug, 2014 Lead G/U
Mike Goldthorp 17 May, 2014 Lead O/S So much fun! After a cheeky move off the slab, the juggy crackline is just a joy to climb, felt a bit like the headwall of Arm's race at Avon, superb!
with Jack G, brices
So much fun! After a cheeky move off the slab, the juggy crackline is just a joy to climb, felt a bit like the headwall of Arm's race at Avon, superb!
with Jack G, brices
Justin T 15 May, 2014 Lead dog Failed to man up and get on with it leading to excessive pump and much dogging. The peg mentioned in the Rockfax description consists of one rusty angle and a weird tied off aluminium bar concoction. Yummy!
with Tom N
Failed to man up and get on with it leading to excessive pump and much dogging. The peg mentioned in the Rockfax description consists of one rusty angle and a weird tied off aluminium bar concoction. Yummy!
with Tom N
Hidden 19 Apr, 2014 Lead dog
tim newton 24 Aug, 2013 Lead G/U Ground up, second go. Took a big fall from just below the pegs onto gear at the bottom of the ramp. Lowered, pulled the ropes and did it second go. I could barely clip the thread near the top, so pumped. Well chuffed
Ground up, second go. Took a big fall from just below the pegs onto gear at the bottom of the ramp. Lowered, pulled the ropes and did it second go. I could barely clip the thread near the top, so pumped. Well chuffed
willoates 31 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S not amazing, but a good route, went up and left a bit early on some slopey undercuts which felt a bit bold.
with soph
not amazing, but a good route, went up and left a bit early on some slopey undercuts which felt a bit bold.
with soph
soph 31 Mar, 2013 2nd rpt
colesy 31 Mar, 2013 Lead rpt Glad to get this after falling off it last year.
with Sasha Coombes
Glad to get this after falling off it last year.
with Sasha Coombes
dswansonlow 30 Mar, 2013 2nd dog
with Emma Twyford
with Emma Twyford
redjerry 22 Aug, 2012 Lead β .
with Ben Williams
.
with Ben Williams
Hidden 20 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 14 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Quite hard to convey how pumped I got on this. Clawed my way up, placing terrible gear (luckily the insitu stuff was generally sufficient). I could barely even open crabs to clip by the end.
Quite hard to convey how pumped I got on this. Clawed my way up, placing terrible gear (luckily the insitu stuff was generally sufficient). I could barely even open crabs to clip by the end.
theotherpetehill 14 Jul, 2012 2nd dog Totally frigged
with Ross McKerchar
Totally frigged
with Ross McKerchar
dan gibson 7 May, 2012 Lead RP fell off the day before.
with richard lade
fell off the day before.
with richard lade
jacobjacob 5 May, 2012 Lead O/S
barni 15 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with fra
with fra
thomasadixon 19 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Hard work! Was trashed after the crux and had to 'rest' on the holds by the pegs for ages to get anything back, just managed it. Could have been really tired I guess...
with mwatson
Hard work! Was trashed after the crux and had to 'rest' on the holds by the pegs for ages to get anything back, just managed it. Could have been really tired I guess...
with mwatson
Glyn 28 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 27 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Glyn Hudson, barni
with Glyn Hudson, barni
barni 27 Jun, 2011 2nd
Alex Mason 23 Jun, 2011 Lead β A stellar sprint. Abbed in down the line unintentionally (thought i would be further right) but in retrospect it made it all the more satisfying as i had a vague idea of what was coming and new the insitu stuff was in good nick. Awesome fun and probably one of my best performances to date. Good second chris.
A stellar sprint. Abbed in down the line unintentionally (thought i would be further right) but in retrospect it made it all the more satisfying as i had a vague idea of what was coming and new the insitu stuff was in good nick. Awesome fun and probably one of my best performances to date. Good second chris.
Toby Dunn 23 Apr, 2011 2nd
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
mwatson ??, 2011 Lead O/S drank a a load of coke just before starting, got really psyched up and crushed it with out even getting pumped, then seconded it, hard second time roud
drank a a load of coke just before starting, got really psyched up and crushed it with out even getting pumped, then seconded it, hard second time roud
Andrew Barker 8 Aug, 2010 Lead I was depressingly close to onsighting this. I spent too long putting gear in between the peg and the thread but went for it and ended up staring at the thread without being able to move or to clip it. It was a fun fall as I wasn't sure if my gear would hold. Thankfully it did as otherwise it would have been an enormous lob. Lowered down, pulled the ropes and did it next go.
I was depressingly close to onsighting this. I spent too long putting gear in between the peg and the thread but went for it and ended up staring at the thread without being able to move or to clip it. It was a fun fall as I wasn't sure if my gear would hold. Thankfully it did as otherwise it would have been an enormous lob. Lowered down, pulled the ropes and did it next go.
Fran S8 31 Jul, 2010 2nd
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 -
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Toby Dunn 27 Aug, 2009 Lead
feilx 1 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Gus 19 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
nicolat ??, 2008 2nd
JulesV ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks ??, 2007 Lead G/U
Steve Crowe 1 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 -
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2002 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr 29 Aug, 2001 Lead O/S
with Viv
with Viv
Hidden 7 Jul, 2001 Lead dnf
Hidden 29 May, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2000 TR dog
Tim M ??, 2000 2nd
with Pete V
with Pete V
Hidden 16 Jul, 1999 AltLd O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??, 1999 Lead O/S
innes ?Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
with Jon Bracey
with Jon Bracey
Greg Cunningham ?Jul, 1998 Lead O/S
with guy exley
with guy exley
Neil McA 2 Aug, 1997 Lead dog Had a rest on a runner when i wilted, then carried on. Just timmied out really!
with Neil Comyn
Had a rest on a runner when i wilted, then carried on. Just timmied out really!
with Neil Comyn
sadams 22 Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
with Team Midlands
with Team Midlands
Si Witcher ??, 1997 -
keefe ??, 1996 -
jfletcher 14 Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
17 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 29
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set