Rockfax Description
A steep and taxing pumper. From the ramp on Charisma, follow a crack up and left to a small roof (old peg - other gear available). Pull over this into another crack and continue past a thread to the top. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 04/Jul/1985

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, The Best of Pembroke.

Hidden 30/Aug/17 2nd rpt
Adam24B 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S

I love this route, had some much harder moves than I expected but made it through and was pleasantly surprised to find a shiny new peg after the moves off the ramp.

Kris2fa 12/Aug/17 2nd dog
with Adam24B
JendeHoxar 09/Aug/17 2nd
with Flavio
Flavio 09/Aug/17 Lead O/S

#4 ***

ian bryant 16/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Richard Kendrick 14/Jun/17 Lead β

So good!! Abbed down the line to check the gear and then led. First E5

with Luke, Julian
LDudill 14/Jun/17 2nd dog

One fall, pumpy and definately not able to lead e5 yet! Would love to come back and lead one day though!!

with Rich
Hidden ??/2017 -
andyinglis 10/Oct/16 2nd
with Murdoch Jamieson
coula1 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S
pete johnson 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S
shed_hed 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Pumpy! Feels quite committing leaving the ledge at the start and I nearly backed off. Was hanging around for ages at the start and got pumped, so then had to make a move and shake out and rest my way up until through the steep section!

Billg 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S


with Will Calvert
Hidden 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 04/Jun/16 Lead G/U

Bit of a suspect style; ground-up but on Anna's kit. Anna wanted a go and I had originally asked her to strip it as I wanted to save myself for Darkness at Noon the next day. After watching her do it I was so inspired and worried that connies wouldn't improve for Darkness I asked her to drop the ropes. Should prob have got her to strip it and put my own kit in but oh well...

Hidden 08/May/16 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 08/May/16 Lead dnf

Took a pretty good sized lob eyeballing the peg! My last gear was down on the ramp of charisma so was a bit of a sweeping fall, fortunately into space. Was a little silly going for it as it was pretty greasy but didn't want to down climb taking my kit out. Ended up doing that anyway but at least I gave it a go! Will be back for sure.

with Almadad
Wendy 08/May/16 2nd O/S
with Ali
markalmack 02/May/16 Lead O/S

really enjoyed this. Felt pretty straightforward with no stressfull gear placements

Ramon Marin 05/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Saved the onsight for so long, and glad I just went for it. It looks harder than it is, it's actually not that bad. Resting at the break by the tat is a mistake, you get pumped, just moving up one move up the crack gets you amazing finger jams. I thought it was soft

with Douglas Russell
D.Russell 05/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Ramon
will smith11 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Twisty
Hidden 21/Jul/15 Lead
Ed morris 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Henry
brunomarks 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Had climbed this 12yrs previous but a gear rescue prompted the repeat. Very enjoyable! Well protected straightforward pumpy climbing. Good for the sport fit.

with Neil Lowry
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 05/Jun/15 Lead dog
anguskille 02/Jun/15 Lead O/S

spent ages on the steep bit, pumped! great climbing despite the windy conditions

Adam Booth 02/Jun/15 2nd rpt
NDD 25/May/15 Lead O/S
with tony stone
Tom Livingstone 07/Apr/15 2nd β
with Oli Grounsell
Adam Booth 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
brices 06/Apr/15 Lead RP

Wussed out and grabbed the tat first go, route is so good got back on it at the end of the day and did it clean

with Llinos
Ed Booth 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
nathanlee 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Amazing top section!

with Jack Lawledge
soph 22/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Blair Fyffe
bigie bob 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
malx ?/Aug/14 Lead G/U
Mike Goldthorp 17/May/14 Lead O/S

So much fun! After a cheeky move off the slab, the juggy crackline is just a joy to climb, felt a bit like the headwall of Arm's race at Avon, superb!

with Jack G, Simon
Justin T 15/May/14 Lead dog

Failed to man up and get on with it leading to excessive pump and much dogging. The peg mentioned in the Rockfax description consists of one rusty angle and a weird tied off aluminium bar concoction. Yummy!

with Tom N
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead dog
tim newton 24/Aug/13 Lead G/U

Ground up, second go. Took a big fall from just below the pegs onto gear at the bottom of the ramp. Lowered, pulled the ropes and did it second go. I could barely clip the thread near the top, so pumped. Well chuffed

willoates 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

not amazing, but a good route, went up and left a bit early on some slopey undercuts which felt a bit bold.

with soph
soph 31/Mar/13 2nd rpt
colesy 31/Mar/13 Lead rpt

Glad to get this after falling off it last year.

with Sasha Coombes
dswansonlow 30/Mar/13 2nd dog
with Emma Twyford
redjerry 22/Aug/12 Lead


with Ben Williams
Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Quite hard to convey how pumped I got on this. Clawed my way up, placing terrible gear (luckily the insitu stuff was generally sufficient). I could barely even open crabs to clip by the end.

theotherpetehill 14/Jul/12 2nd dog

Totally frigged

with Ross McKerchar
dan gibson 07/May/12 Lead RP

fell off the day before.

with richard lade
jacobjacob 05/May/12 Lead O/S
barni 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with fra
thomasadixon 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Hard work! Was trashed after the crux and had to 'rest' on the holds by the pegs for ages to get anything back, just managed it. Could have been really tired I guess...

with Mike
Glyn 28/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Luke, Barni
Luke Brooks 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Glyn Hudson, Barni
barni 27/Jun/11 2nd
with luke
Alex Mason 23/Jun/11 Lead β

A stellar sprint. Abbed in down the line unintentionally (thought i would be further right) but in retrospect it made it all the more satisfying as i had a vague idea of what was coming and new the insitu stuff was in good nick. Awesome fun and probably one of my best performances to date. Good second chris.

Toby Dunn 23/Apr/11 2nd
with Andy Reeve
mwatson ??/2011 Lead O/S

drank a a load of coke just before starting, got really psyched up and crushed it with out even getting pumped, then seconded it, hard second time roud

Andrew Barker 08/Aug/10 Lead

I was depressingly close to onsighting this. I spent too long putting gear in between the peg and the thread but went for it and ended up staring at the thread without being able to move or to clip it. It was a fun fall as I wasn't sure if my gear would hold. Thankfully it did as otherwise it would have been an enormous lob. Lowered down, pulled the ropes and did it next go.

with Si
Fran S8 31/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
Toby Dunn 27/Aug/09 Lead
feilx 01/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Gus 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
nicolat ??/2008 2nd
JulesV ??/2008 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks ??/2007 Lead G/U
Steve Crowe 01/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/02 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr 29/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Viv
Hidden 07/Jul/01 Lead dnf
Hidden 29/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 TR dog
Tim M ??/2000 2nd
with Pete V
Hidden 16/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
innes ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Jon Bracey
Greg Cunningham ?/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with guy exley
sadams 22/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with Team Midlands
keefe ??/1996 -
jfletcher 14/Aug/94 Lead O/S
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Style of ascent
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