Rockfax Description
A brilliant direct route up the wall. Climb the lower wall to the ledge. Move up and right towards a niche in the roof. Swing about on the huge holds and wave to your mates, then realise that the jugs disappear at the top of the niche and start to panic a bit. Climb up to another roof, pass it on its right then move back left into the awkward finishing corner. © Rockfax

FA. R.Harrison 17/Apr/1981

Ticklists: Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

andyinglis 12/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Murdoch Jamieson
cem 30/Aug/16 Lead dnf

A very stupid decision to try it as the holds in the niche were sopping. Bailed out and lost some (fortunately second hand) gear as a result.

scottcoates 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with williap
beni 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Jess
williap 27/Aug/16 2nd

Absolutely stunning route!

WillAndrew 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Massive jugs the whole way, amazing route.

steve_gibbs 27/Aug/16 2nd dnf
M_Robinson 18/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Chris Shepherd, Adam Bowman
Adam24B 18/Aug/16 2nd
with Chris Shepherd, Mike Robinson
Hidden 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/16 2nd O/S
The Grist 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this route. Found it very straight forward which was pleasing.

Hidden 31/Jul/16 2nd
JenShelley 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Ed
john lynch 24/Jun/16 Lead O/S

brilliant, meaty pitch.

with Lewis Andrew
nigel bassam 17/Jun/16 2nd
with paul
FlavioL1989 12/Jun/16 Lead O/S
ben.phillips 12/Jun/16 2nd dog
with Flavio
Hidden 05/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 05/Jun/16 Lead
onlyfoddington 30/May/16 2nd O/S

Sustained interest, really pleased I managed to stay the course.

with Michael, Ian
tim.fairhall 30/May/16 2nd O/S
with Richard
Luxulyan 30/May/16 Lead O/S
with Tim
ian d f 30/May/16 2nd O/S
pearson9596 30/May/16 Lead O/S
Russtygibbons 29/May/16 2nd dog
with Ant
ASchwirtz 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with Russ
Hidden 28/May/16 2nd
Richard Kendrick 25/May/16 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 25/May/16 2nd O/S
Adam24B 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S
M_Robinson 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 29/Apr/16 Lead dog

Again read the guide book! Went left at the top of the jugs into a hanging crack, could not place good gear, lowered off a very poor cam, this turnd out to be the e4 next to space cadet

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 29/Apr/16 Lead β

Andy started leading but came off, although not before he'd led up the wrong groove. I then got on it and ended up having to climb up a sketchy run out groove which was part of the neighboring e4. Run out and scary onsight, but a great route - about e4 with this variation.

with Andy
Hidden 23/Apr/16 Lead
mike mo ??/2016 -
JulesV 25/Sep/15 2nd
Owen W-G 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Woo! Big lead of the trip and first Pembroke E3. Pumpier placing gear than climbing the steep jugfest but happy to find it all bomber, found the transition to the slab loads easier than described but nearly fluffed upper roof, so pumped. Maybe bottom end of grade but top end of my game.

with Ben French
Brian H 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Excellent - and much easier than Test Case.

anguskille 14/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Just awesome, didn't find it too tricky, great route

with Mike Grant
benkelsey 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Mega, total bomb shelter before committing from shaun.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

ace! nearly fell on the awkward finishing corner

Ed Babs 11/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Sweet end of the day tick. So steep, and so many jugs!

with AlexD
AlexD 11/Aug/15 2nd


with Ed
JBO 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 25/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with KP
James Marshall 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with ollie
Dan724 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Best E3 I've done anywhere.

with Brendan Fraser
james.slater 03/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/May/15 2nd rpt
with Eszter
markalmack 23/May/15 Lead rpt

Wet. So apparently ive done this before... is news to me.

Chris_barr 23/May/15 Lead
with Gus
ben.phillips 23/May/15 2nd O/S
Gus 23/May/15 2nd
with chris barr
MichaelGallimore 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Nice steep moves, felt good. Superb moves coming under the roof!

with Ben Philips
billb ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S
hilty 06/Apr/15 2nd
Adam Coles 06/Apr/15 Lead
with hilty
brices 05/Apr/15 2nd β

Great lead by Llinos

with Llinos
Llinos C 05/Apr/15 Lead
ollie_e 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Really good, quite pumpy.

chrisscutt 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with oly
Jack93 22/Mar/15 2nd dog
spidermonkey09 22/Mar/15 Lead dog

Did the steep stuff and then just read the moves round the overhang wrong and came off- good meaty whipper! Felt ok after a rest on the rope - will be back.

mike lawrence? 19/Mar/15 2nd

A brilliant climb

with FatRob
i_a_coops 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S

soggy and magical

with Harry
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Kirill 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S


Hidden 16/Sep/14 2nd β
nathanlee 16/Sep/14 2nd
with Jack Lawledge
Ramon Marin 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with ciaran tracey
Ciro 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Great route with a little bit of everything.

with Ramon
HAJ Francis ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Misha 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Dan
dan gibson 30/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Misha
Apharri 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Lessworkmoreclimbing 23/Aug/14 2nd

Seconded clean, pleased but not ready for lead yet!!

with Kev
bigie bob 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
guy757 13/Jul/14 -
redjerry 09/Jul/14 Lead
with Ed Morris
Ramon Marin 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

a whole lot of fun and much easier than test case for sure. Not hard move and lots of good gear, just steep, that's all

with viki harvey
Stefan_Morris 11/Jun/14 Lead β
mountain_jay 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Bit of a battle! Great route though.

Pippa 04/May/14 2nd rpt
Justin T 03/May/14 2nd
with Rachel
Rachel Slater 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Much easier than Test Case.

Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Stuart Johnston 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Good rests and good gear.

adam 24 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 20/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Tom Mills
simon kimber 20/Apr/14 2nd
with Rich Howell
Dibdawg 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Dean177 19/Apr/14 2nd dog
thebigeasy ?/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 15/Mar/14 2nd dog
Sarah Black 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Joyce
robgixer 05/Oct/13 2nd
robgixer 05/Oct/13 2nd
masa-alpin 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

In the initial part, many things went wrong, such as a crucial nut popped out, which left me with no runner while hanging just below the steepest part, and clipping the wrong rope etc. Fortunately the climbing was a lot easier than expected and managed to find some rest as well, so flashed. Soft E2 5b?

with Rob G
mikeshewring 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S
tim newton 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
dan gibson 11/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with jacquie robinson
Tom Livingstone 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Great route, bomber gear, straightforward if you an cope with the steepness at the start where the holds are massive!

with Kevin Stephens
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Lenny 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Phil .N
Jake Young 14/Jun/13 2nd O/S


climbingsheep 14/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Jake Young, Mike Watson
Jim Tan 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
clams ?/Jun/13 2nd dog

With multiple rests - too hard really

with Jim
markalmack 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with gwen
barni 29/Mar/13 Lead
with Oates
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
HarryB 22/Sep/12 2nd dnf

came off on the overhang and couldnt swing bag on

with Ross
khawk 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with DT
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Si
Ed morris 10/Aug/12 2nd β

Hot and slippery, still pretty good

with Adam Bevan
dswansonlow 09/Aug/12 2nd O/S
jacobjlloyd 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Dougie
quiffhanger 15/Jul/12 2nd rpt

Brilliant, even on second.

theotherpetehill 14/Jul/12 Lead β
with Ross McKerchar
Short&Savage 07/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Started raining at the top groove, foot popped off and had to cut loose - power scream to top - all very emotional

gazhbo 13/May/12 Lead O/S
lukehodson 12/May/12 2nd O/S


al99 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Luke Hodson
Luke Brooks 14/Apr/12 2nd
with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Luke
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead
Pippa 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tink
esther ?/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
Adam Booth 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Greg Cunningham ?/Sep/11 Lead rpt

seconded nigel birtwell in 1995

with paul christie
drcorbasisgod 30/Aug/11 2nd rpt
cem 30/Aug/11 Lead dog

A bit gutted: like Cragrat Rich I also got badly pumped at the second small roof but I couldn't hold out & fell off. Completed it cleanly after shaking out & climbing back up to my high point

Mike_Hayes 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Fred_Richard 27/Aug/11 2nd
with bill turner
Bry 27/Aug/11 2nd β
with Mike
Graham Iles 27/Aug/11 Lead
with Neil Stabbs
Ian Jones 20/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Superb and very easy to second.

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
Ollie B 16/Aug/11 Lead rpt

seconded previously

with L.Postlewaith
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
redjerry ?/Aug/11 TR O/S
thomasadixon 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant.

with Mike
quiffhanger 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

very very wet

Luke Brooks 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Barni
barni 27/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with luke
dan gibson 01/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with richard lade
chris wyatt 30/May/11 Lead O/S

Loved the juggy lower section with its massive holds. Loved the slabby middle section. Loved the top groove but my feet hurt!

Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 27/May/11 Lead O/S

Awesome steep climbing. Got dangerously pumped at second small roof but just held out. Closest i've sailed to the wind in a while!! Just collapsed at the top

frost 27/May/11 2nd
with Pete H, D Garry
mux 27/May/11 Lead O/S

Dead nice and ace and that.?

with Pete Harrison, frost
haydng 15/May/11 2nd rpt

Almost had to be dragged up this!

with Rob
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/May/11 Lead β
zero six ?/May/11 Lead β
squicky 26/Apr/11 2nd dnf

One move halfway up was just too difficult. Looked like a beautiful route.

with spidey
spidey 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
robinsi197 25/Apr/11 2nd
with Piotr, Nick
Nick Sillem 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Pippa 23/Apr/11 Lead
with Jon
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
nickcanute ??/2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Amazing position and route!

with Deniz Sumengen
Ed morris 15/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with -martin
jacobjacob 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
SuseH 30/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Iain
chiverstom 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with zappa
drysori 29/Aug/10 2nd
with Tom
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
d_meacher 08/Aug/10 2nd dog
irish paul 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
Brian Rodgers 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Awesome route with a sting in the tail.

Fran S8 31/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch 16/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with mick
gnc760 11/Jun/10 2nd O/S


with James Kay
Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/10 Lead O/S
nick arding 24/May/10 Lead O/S
with rob pitt
Rob Pitt 24/May/10 2nd
with Nick Arding
nick arding 24/May/10 Lead O/S
with rob pitt
Hidden 04/May/10 2nd
eddy-on-the-rocks 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with ollie, max
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
drcorbasisgod 01/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead rpt
david morse 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S

some of the biggest jugs in Pembroke. Awesome

with General
simonp ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
belay bunny turned bad 25/Jul/09 2nd
with marcus
RobRock84 09/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Awesome route,been on my wish list for a while and it was worth the wait,nothing to difficut,holds are where you need them to be,very enjoyable.

with Adam Bevan
Hidden 21/Jun/09 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Alex Mason 03/Jun/09 Lead rpt

First trad route for about 2 months, suprised at the sustained technicalities. grand.

with Nick Rabb
belay bunny turned bad ?/Jun/09 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dmoir 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/09 2nd O/S
mynyddresident ??/2009 2nd
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd
morganator 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with James Hall
tonanf 08/Aug/08 AltLd
with Pep
Hidden 27/May/08 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 17/May/08 Lead O/S
haydng 03/May/08 Lead dog
with Will
mbutton ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
LC ?/May/08 Lead O/S
JulesV ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 17/Aug/07 Lead O/S
feilx 23/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Phil Davis
Hidden 19/May/07 Lead O/S
Chad123 05/May/07 Lead O/S

Classic route - interesting all the way, and not particularly hard moves, just lots of them! Usually has an in situ audience on the cliff top!

with Emily
Ram MkiV 03/May/07 Lead O/S
with Al
Billg ?/May/07 -
Tony Little 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ed Brown
haydng ??/2007 Lead O/S
janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
a_radiohead_fan ?/Aug/06 -
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
Hidden 13/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Chubbard 08/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with C Godfrey
Ricky Rocks ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
Gus 29/May/04 Lead O/S
with simon "the horse" wilson
Hidden 13/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 2nd
Neil Ireson ??/2003 Lead

A contender for the best single pitch climb I've done.

with John
PaulTclimbing ??/2002 -
with Johnjames, Trelewis gang, Neville, Adrian, Neil, Howell graham
Hidden 27/Aug/00 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Phil T
Andy Edgar ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Hugh Woodland
WB 30/May/99 Lead O/S
with Guy
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Apr/99 Lead
with Jenny Ibbotson, James Ibbertson
Hidden ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 -
GuyM ??/1999 -
with will
Rich Kirby 30/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/98 Lead O/S
PaulTanton ?/May/98 2nd
jfletcher 28/Sep/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S
sadams 22/Jun/97 2nd
with Team Midlands
ukb shark 26/May/96 Lead O/S
with Sonia
Steve Crowe 04/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with KM
phardman 08/Sep/95 2nd

A brilliant picth

with Jon Bibby
Hidden ?/Aug/95 2nd
AlexRenshaw 07/May/95 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH ?/May/95 Lead
rc ??/1994 2nd
with Ian Lewis
FATBOYFAT ??/1993 -
innes ?/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Chris
Roget 08/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
Eduardo Martinez ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/87 -
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Mike Owen 13/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Ian Carr
William Robertson ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Shaun Derry
Steve Lewis 23/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Mark Kemball 21/Jul/83 Lead
with Dave Abbey
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 64
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 60
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set