42m.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant direct route up the wall. Climb the lower wall to the ledge. Move up and right towards a niche in the roof. Swing about on the huge holds and wave to your mates, then realise that the jugs disappear at the top of the niche and start to panic a bit. Climb up to another roof, pass it on its right then move back left into the awkward finishing corner. © Rockfax

FA. R.Harrison 17/Apr/1981

Ticklists: Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Becky's ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
julesmckim 22/Apr 2nd

Wow! Amazing route! Steeper than it looks (and it looks steep). Sustained interest to the top.

AlexRenshaw 22/Apr Lead
davkeo 19/Apr Lead O/S

One of the best pitches iv ever done. Got myself into a horribly cramped position under the roof which could have been avoided with better planning.

timmyfuckinmiller 19/Apr 2nd O/S

Good steep juggy climbing lead by Dave

bede.west 17/Apr Lead O/S

fell off Test Case as it was wet so pleased to get up this

Hidden 15/Apr 2nd
mattlyons 15/Apr 2nd O/S
with Ed, benkelsey
benkelsey 15/Apr 2nd rpt

Amazing route. Good connies.

with mrteale
Elliot Walker 15/Apr 2nd O/S
mrteale 15/Apr Lead O/S

Easier than Test case but a better line? Great moves.

pete johnson 15/Apr Lead rpt
with Elliot
Duncan Campbell 15/Apr Lead O/S

Rediculous juggy fun!

with Kate Keltie
Chris Redding 12/Mar Lead O/S

Persuaded to try it, very glad I tried now :P. Got a decent rest under the main roof to recover.. nearly fell off going over the second overlap but was lucky. Last crack is definitely awkward.. not over till the end at all. fairly sustained all the way but great if you have the guns.

andyinglis 12/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Murdoch Jamieson
cem 30/Aug/16 Lead dnf

A very stupid decision to try it as the holds in the niche were sopping. Bailed out and lost some (fortunately second hand) gear as a result.

scottcoates 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with williap
williap 27/Aug/16 2nd

Absolutely stunning route!

WillAndrew 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Massive jugs the whole way, amazing route.

steve_gibbs 27/Aug/16 2nd dnf
beni 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Jess
M_Robinson 18/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Chris Shepherd, Adam Bowman
Adam24B 18/Aug/16 2nd
with Chris Shepherd, Mike Robinson
Hidden 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/16 2nd O/S
The Grist 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this route. Found it very straight forward which was pleasing.

Hidden 31/Jul/16 2nd
JenShelley 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Ed
john lynch 24/Jun/16 Lead O/S

brilliant, meaty pitch.

with Lewis Andrew
nigel bassam 17/Jun/16 2nd
with paul
FlavioL1989 12/Jun/16 Lead O/S
ben.phillips 12/Jun/16 2nd dog
with Flavio
Hidden 05/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/16 2nd
Luxulyan 30/May/16 Lead O/S
with Tim
onlyfoddington 30/May/16 2nd O/S

Sustained interest, really pleased I managed to stay the course.

with Michael, Ian
ian d f 30/May/16 2nd O/S
tim.fairhall 30/May/16 2nd O/S
with Richard
pearson9596 30/May/16 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with Russ
Russtygibbons 29/May/16 2nd dog
with Ant
Hidden 28/May/16 2nd
jon_gill1 25/May/16 2nd O/S
Richard Kendrick 25/May/16 Lead O/S
Adam24B 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S
M_Robinson 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 29/Apr/16 Lead β

Andy started leading but came off, although not before he'd led up the wrong groove. I then got on it and ended up having to climb up a sketchy run out groove which was part of the neighboring e4. Run out and scary onsight, but a great route - about e4 with this variation.

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 29/Apr/16 Lead dog

Again read the guide book! Went left at the top of the jugs into a hanging crack, could not place good gear, lowered off a very poor cam, this turnd out to be the e4 next to space cadet

Sash.C 23/Apr/16 Lead

Previously seconded

with Ali
mike mo ??/2016 -
JulesV 25/Sep/15 2nd
Owen W-G 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Woo! Big lead of the trip and first Pembroke E3. Pumpier placing gear than climbing the steep jugfest but happy to find it all bomber, found the transition to the slab loads easier than described but nearly fluffed upper roof, so pumped. Maybe bottom end of grade but top end of my game.

with Ben French
Brian H 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Excellent - and much easier than Test Case.

anguskille 14/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Just awesome, didn't find it too tricky, great route

with Mike Grant
benkelsey 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Mega, total bomb shelter before committing from shaun.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

ace! nearly fell on the awkward finishing corner

Ed Babs 11/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Sweet end of the day tick. So steep, and so many jugs!

with AlexD
AlexD 11/Aug/15 2nd

Ace!

with Ed
JBO 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 25/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with KP
James Marshall 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with ollie
Dan724 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Best E3 I've done anywhere.

with Brendan Fraser
james.slater 03/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/May/15 2nd rpt
with Eszter
Chris_barr 23/May/15 Lead
with Gus
Gus 23/May/15 2nd
with chris barr
markalmack 23/May/15 Lead rpt

Wet. So apparently ive done this before... is news to me.

ben.phillips 23/May/15 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Nice steep moves, felt good. Superb moves coming under the roof!

with Ben Philips
billb ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Adam Coles 06/Apr/15 Lead
with hilty
hilty 06/Apr/15 2nd
brices 05/Apr/15 2nd β

Great lead by Llinos

with Llinos
Llinos C 05/Apr/15 Lead
chrisscutt 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with oly
ollie_e 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Really good, quite pumpy.

Jack93 22/Mar/15 2nd dog
spidermonkey09 22/Mar/15 Lead dog

Did the steep stuff and then just read the moves round the overhang wrong and came off- good meaty whipper! Felt ok after a rest on the rope - will be back.

mike lawrence? 19/Mar/15 2nd

A brilliant climb

with FatRob
i_a_coops 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S

soggy and magical

with Harry
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Kirill 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Amazing!

nathanlee 16/Sep/14 2nd
with Jack Lawledge
Hidden 16/Sep/14 2nd β
Ramon Marin 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with ciaran tracey
Ciro 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Great route with a little bit of everything.

with Ramon
HAJ Francis ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
dan gibson 30/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Misha
Apharri 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Misha 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Dan
Lessworkmoreclimbing 23/Aug/14 2nd

Seconded clean, pleased but not ready for lead yet!!

with Kev
bigie bob 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
guy757 13/Jul/14 -
redjerry 09/Jul/14 Lead
with Ed Morris
Ramon Marin 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

a whole lot of fun and much easier than test case for sure. Not hard move and lots of good gear, just steep, that's all

with viki harvey
Stefan_Morris 11/Jun/14 Lead β
mountain_jay 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Bit of a battle! Great route though.

Pippa 04/May/14 2nd rpt
Justin T 03/May/14 2nd
with Rachel
Rachel Slater 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Much easier than Test Case.

Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Stuart Johnston 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Good rests and good gear.

adam 24 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 20/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Tom Mills
simon kimber 20/Apr/14 2nd
with Rich Howell
Dibdawg 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Dean177 19/Apr/14 2nd dog
thebigeasy ?/Apr/14 Lead
Sarah Black 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Joyce
Hidden 15/Mar/14 2nd dog
robgixer 05/Oct/13 2nd
robgixer 05/Oct/13 2nd
masa-alpin 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

In the initial part, many things went wrong, such as a crucial nut popped out, which left me with no runner while hanging just below the steepest part, and clipping the wrong rope etc. Fortunately the climbing was a lot easier than expected and managed to find some rest as well, so flashed. Soft E2 5b?

with Rob G
mikeshewring 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S
tim newton 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
dan gibson 11/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with jacquie robinson
Tom Livingstone 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Great route, bomber gear, straightforward if you an cope with the steepness at the start where the holds are massive!

with Kevin Stephens
Lenny 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Phil .N
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Jake Young 14/Jun/13 2nd O/S

cool

climbingsheep 14/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Jake Young, Mike Watson
Jim Tan 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
clams ?/Jun/13 2nd dog

With multiple rests - too hard really

with Jim
markalmack 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with gwen
barni 29/Mar/13 Lead
with Oates
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
HarryB 22/Sep/12 2nd dnf

came off on the overhang and couldnt swing bag on

with Ross
khawk 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with DT
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Si
Ed morris 10/Aug/12 2nd β

Hot and slippery, still pretty good

with Adam Bevan
dswansonlow 09/Aug/12 2nd O/S
jacobjlloyd 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Dougie
quiffhanger 15/Jul/12 2nd rpt

Brilliant, even on second.

theotherpetehill 14/Jul/12 Lead β
with Ross McKerchar
Short&Savage 07/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Started raining at the top groove, foot popped off and had to cut loose - power scream to top - all very emotional

gazhbo 13/May/12 Lead O/S
al99 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Luke Hodson
lukehodson 12/May/12 2nd O/S

Brilliant

Glyn 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Luke
Luke Brooks 14/Apr/12 2nd
with Glyn Hudson
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead
Pippa 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tink
esther ?/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
Adam Booth 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Greg Cunningham ?/Sep/11 Lead rpt

seconded nigel birtwell in 1995

with paul christie
cem 30/Aug/11 Lead dog

A bit gutted: like Cragrat Rich I also got badly pumped at the second small roof but I couldn't hold out & fell off. Completed it cleanly after shaking out & climbing back up to my high point

drcorbasisgod 30/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Mike_Hayes 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Bry 27/Aug/11 2nd β
with Mike
Graham Iles 27/Aug/11 Lead
with Neil Stabbs
Fred_Richard 27/Aug/11 2nd
with bill turner
Ian Jones 20/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Superb and very easy to second.

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
Ollie B 16/Aug/11 Lead rpt

seconded previously

with L.Postlewaith
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
redjerry ?/Aug/11 TR O/S
thomasadixon 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant.

with Mike
quiffhanger 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

very very wet

barni 27/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with luke
Luke Brooks 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Barni
dan gibson 01/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with richard lade
chris wyatt 30/May/11 Lead O/S

Loved the juggy lower section with its massive holds. Loved the slabby middle section. Loved the top groove but my feet hurt!

Cragrat Rich 27/May/11 Lead O/S

Awesome steep climbing. Got dangerously pumped at second small roof but just held out. Closest i've sailed to the wind in a while!! Just collapsed at the top

mux 27/May/11 Lead O/S

Dead nice and ace and that.?

with Pete Harrison, frost
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
frost 27/May/11 2nd
with Pete H, D Garry
haydng 15/May/11 2nd rpt

Almost had to be dragged up this!

with Rob
zero six ?/May/11 Lead β
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/May/11 Lead β
spidey 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
squicky 26/Apr/11 2nd dnf

One move halfway up was just too difficult. Looked like a beautiful route.

with spidey
robinsi197 25/Apr/11 2nd
with Piotr, Nick
Nick Sillem 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Pippa 23/Apr/11 Lead
with Jon
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
nickcanute ??/2011 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Amazing position and route!

with Deniz Sumengen
Ed morris 15/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with -martin
jacobjacob 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
SuseH 30/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Iain
chiverstom 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with zappa
drysori 29/Aug/10 2nd
with Tom
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
d_meacher 08/Aug/10 2nd dog
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Fran S8 31/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch 16/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with mick
Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
gnc760 11/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Mega

with James Kay
Hidden 29/May/10 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 24/May/10 2nd
with Nick Arding
nick arding 24/May/10 Lead O/S
with rob pitt
nick arding 24/May/10 Lead O/S
with rob pitt
Hidden 04/May/10 2nd
eddy-on-the-rocks 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with ollie, max
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
drcorbasisgod 01/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead rpt
david morse 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S

some of the biggest jugs in Pembroke. Awesome

with General
simonp ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
belay bunny turned bad 25/Jul/09 2nd
with marcus
RobRock84 09/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Awesome route,been on my wish list for a while and it was worth the wait,nothing to difficut,holds are where you need them to be,very enjoyable.

with Adam Bevan
Hidden 21/Jun/09 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Alex Mason 03/Jun/09 Lead rpt

First trad route for about 2 months, suprised at the sustained technicalities. grand.

with Nick Rabb
belay bunny turned bad ?/Jun/09 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dmoir 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/09 2nd O/S
mynyddresident ??/2009 2nd
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd
morganator 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with James Hall
tonanf 08/Aug/08 AltLd
with Pep
Mark Stevenson 27/May/08 Lead O/S
with not seconded
Richard Horn 17/May/08 Lead O/S
haydng 03/May/08 Lead dog
with Will
LC ?/May/08 Lead O/S
mbutton ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
Hidden ??/2008 -
JulesV ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/07 Lead O/S
feilx 23/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Phil Davis
Hidden 19/May/07 Lead O/S
Chad123 05/May/07 Lead O/S

Classic route - interesting all the way, and not particularly hard moves, just lots of them! Usually has an in situ audience on the cliff top!

with Emily
Ram MkiV 03/May/07 Lead O/S
with Al
Billg ?/May/07 -
Tony Little 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ed Brown
haydng ??/2007 Lead O/S
janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
a_radiohead_fan ?/Aug/06 -
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
Hidden 13/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Chubbard 08/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with C Godfrey
Ricky Rocks ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Gus 29/May/04 Lead O/S
with simon "the horse" wilson
Hidden 13/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Neil Ireson ??/2003 Lead

A contender for the best single pitch climb I've done.

with John
Hidden ??/2003 2nd
PaulTclimbing ??/2002 -
with Johnjames, Trelewis gang, Neville, Adrian, Neil, Howell graham
Hidden 27/Aug/00 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Phil T
Andy Edgar ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Hugh Woodland
WB 30/May/99 Lead O/S
with Guy
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Apr/99 Lead
with Jenny Ibbotson, James Ibbertson
Hidden ??/1999 -
GuyM ??/1999 -
with will
The Jazz Butcher ??/1999 -
Rich Kirby 30/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/98 Lead O/S
PaulTanton ?/May/98 2nd
jfletcher 28/Sep/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S
sadams 22/Jun/97 2nd
with Team Midlands
ukb & bmc shark 26/May/96 Lead O/S
with Sonia
Steve Crowe 04/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with KM
phardman 08/Sep/95 2nd

A brilliant picth

with Jon Bibby
Hidden ?/Aug/95 2nd
AlexRenshaw 07/May/95 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH ?/May/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 2nd
FATBOYFAT ??/1993 -
innes ?/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Chris
Roget 08/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with jon
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
Eduardo Martinez ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden 26/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/87 -
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Mike Owen 13/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Ian Carr
William Robertson ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Shaun Derry
Steve Lewis 23/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Mark Kemball 21/Jul/83 Lead
with Dave Abbey
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 66
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 63
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set