UKC

Restricted Access

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points) This restriction has been lifted for 2024 as of 27th May 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

42m.

Rockfax Description
A seldom-climbed route up the wall right of the pedestal on Test Case. Climb the lower wall to the ledge. Step left then make steep moves back right to gain a flake. Continue above until it is possible to step right for a rest. Climb the wall above and move right around a roof. The crack above leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. R.Harrison, D.Carter, S.Findlay 23/May/1981.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

13 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 1 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Alien World Direct

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

Loading Notifications...