Rockfax Description
The prominent crack in the side wall of the rubble-filled gully. Start at the bottom of the crack and climb to the top. Steep and awkward but quite satisfying.
There is an eliminate called The Wake, E4 6a which starts up the Kraken and tackles the wall on the right. © Rockfax

FA. S.Monks Oct/1978

DubyaJamesDubya 16/Sep Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
J_Spooner 29/Aug Lead O/S
with Ben Smart
khalidq 29/Aug 2nd rpt
with Hywel Rowlands
Hidden 10/Aug 2nd
bryan61 10/Aug Lead O/S
with sally
mountain.martin 10/Aug 2nd rpt
with louis
Hidden 05/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul 2nd O/S
GregClixby 22/Jun 2nd β
with Jaime
Kevster 28/Apr Lead O/S

Only a traditional route could give climbing like this. Very absorbing.

mrteale 17/Apr Lead O/S
with Jake
Jake Young 17/Apr 2nd O/S
Kirill 15/Apr Lead

Good line and satisfying moves but not impressed with the quality of the rock. Took a surprise fall from an easy section when seemingly solid hold snapped in my hand. Also dislodged a few Bigmac sized blocks which thankfully missed everyone. Big gear for the top crack is not necessary as there's a good horizontal slot that takes couple of small cams.

with Ilia
Justin T 15/Apr Lead O/S

Fairly enjoyable low down but a fairly unpleasantly chossy top-out. Not the worst climbing experience out there, but not one I'll be rushing to repeat.

with Nancy
Gus 15/Apr Lead O/S
with malx
Ilia Nadyrbayev 15/Apr 2nd
Hidden 08/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden 28/Aug/16 Lead
khalidq 15/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Ian Lau
Hidden 15/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Greg Cunningham 09/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Debbie
Martin Bagshaw 01/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Ed Green
JulesV 31/May/16 Lead O/S
steveboote 28/May/16 2nd
with Jumper Mark
Shauna ?/May/16 2nd RP
with Jules
Andy Peak 1 29/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Almost went for full off with aproch to the top crack, lay away and use the foot holds its much better

with Theo
Hidden 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/15 2nd
Brian H 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Much more enjoyable than it looks.

Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Needed big gear for the top, didn't have any... Enjoyed it though .

with KP
soph 16/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Adam Brown
ian d f 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Not sure whether this was enjoyable or not. Probably better in the afternoon, once the moisture has gone!

pearson9596 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
morganator 25/May/15 Lead
nicola parkin 25/May/15 2nd O/S
with jon
FlavioL1989 25/May/15 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 09/Apr/15 Lead
with Metal
Hulda 05/Apr/15 2nd
with Andi
Andrew1 05/Apr/15 Lead
with Hulda
Monster 18/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Robin Neath, Steve Quinton
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
nickstephens 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
gg4419 08/Sep/14 2nd O/S
valecoastclimber 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
simon kimber 05/Sep/14 2nd
with Rob Andrews
dan gibson 30/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Misha
Misha 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dan
tim newton 19/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Wanted to do this for years. Better than it looks! Glad to have a biggish cam for the top.

Olli-C 03/May/14 Lead dnf

Broke a large foothold at the bottom, got to below the wide crack at bottled it.

shed_hed 20/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Greasy at the start. Actually enjoyed this more than I thought I would!

The Grist 20/Apr/14 2nd
dswansonlow 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Just one hard move at the start, but not very hard. The rest is steady, fun climbing. Lot better than it looks.

steve.warrington 31/Aug/13 Lead β
Lessworkmoreclimbing 27/Aug/13 2nd RP

Fell off at bottom trying to get gear out. Lowered down and did whole route clean from ground. Really enjoyed this route.

with Kev
Ed morris 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Martin
shoulders 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead
mikeyjbs 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Charles Green
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Grezza 18/May/13 Lead

awkward and - if everyone is honest- not particularly pleasant

with Paul E
Fran S8 06/May/13 2nd
Goose4 26/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
quiffhanger 14/Jul/12 2nd rpt
theotherpetehill 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Ross McKerchar
ellis 20/May/12 2nd O/S
with Alan Willoner
Billg 19/May/12 Lead O/S

Really great route. Take the biggest cam you own for the top crack!

with Ollie
pembrokeshirecaver 16/May/12 Lead O/S
with Adam
david morse 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Josh,Nath+Mikey
Dean177 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Dibdawg 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Katya 28/Aug/11 2nd dog
Haydn Jones 08/Aug/11 2nd O/S

hard start but eased up

with dan
tonanf ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with john sun
mountain.martin 14/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Exciting, varied climbing with an adventurous feel, although it is well protected. A confidant commited approach helps.

feilx 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andy L
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
barni 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with luke
Luke Brooks 27/Jun/11 2nd
with Barni
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Si
Phill Mitch 23/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with mick
Alex Mason 15/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Wanted to do this for an age but always greasy. Was today but did it anyway. Awesome route, a proper trad climb. E2 without a few big cams (3+ size and quantity).

dan gibson 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
ksjs 31/Aug/10 2nd O/S

tricky enough wee start then pleasure all the way. better than Rockfax makes out

with phil
3 Names 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Chosen for the shade it provided but turned out to be better than expectations. The top offwidth was errr... fun? Not.

Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
catblack 12/Aug/10 2nd dog
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S

A brilliant and underrated route marred only by its proximity to the chossy corner at the top and the fact that it tops out into choss. A steep thuggy start followed by a more delicate finish. I thought it was tough for E1.

Rich Kirby 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Nige
Hidden 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
metal arms 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S

A few holds snapped off - probably shouldn't be starred

with Conner - UBMC
conorjclarke 11/Jun/10 2nd

If you like wet overhanging cracks with lots of loose rock and a first-move crux that strongly resembles a one-arm pullup, this is the climb for you.

with Ant
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 01/May/10 Lead O/S
mattyork2 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S
RobRock84 09/Sep/09 2nd O/S

what a great climb,really enjoyed this route

with Robin neath
cem 30/Aug/09 2nd
clipskipper 02/May/09 2nd dog

Steep, steep start, and the crack further up defeated my tired arms.

with Davey Boy
chris wyatt 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S

I would recommend this route to anyone who likes 'real old skool' stuff. Jamming, laybacking, difficult gear placements (especially without big cams) Dampness etc. You can't beat it

Hidden 29/Mar/09 2nd rpt
Aaron Lines ??/2009 Lead O/S
Paz 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Hard move at the start took me a while. Don't forget a Cam 5 or so if you've got one.

with TS
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ricky Rocks ??/2006 2nd O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
Andy S 22/May/04 Lead O/S
with Rich
alex_th 11/Apr/04 2nd
with Tim Riley
dickypips ??/2003 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ??/2001 -
Hidden 08/Sep/99 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/99 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/99 2nd
Hidden 01/May/99 Lead O/S
Steve Long ??/1997 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 -
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 2nd
Nigel Coe ??/1989 Lead
Dave Musgrove 17/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jan/83 -
jon 03/May/82 -
with willie todd
Lone Rider ??/1982 -
13 users have this on their wishlist
High E2
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Low E1
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High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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