33m.

Rockfax Description
The prominent crack in the side wall of the rubble-filled gully. Start at the bottom of the crack and climb to the top. Steep and awkward but quite satisfying. © Rockfax

FA. S.Monks Oct/1978

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Frank the Husky 25 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Definitely E2. Sustained and varied - and often greasy at the start. A large (5/+) cam isn't necessary for the top, but save your green camalot for a slot that will protect the offwidth moves. Otherwise it will be very spooky and not much fun.
 
Show beta
βeta: Definitely E2. Sustained and varied - and often greasy at the start. A large (5/+) cam isn't necessary for the top, but save your green camalot for a slot that will protect the offwidth moves. Otherwise it will be very spooky and not much fun.
Kirill 15 Apr, 2017 Show βeta
βeta: Good line and satisfying moves but not impressed with the quality of the rock. Took a surprise fall from an easy section when seemingly solid hold snapped in my hand. Also dislodged a few Bigmac sized blocks which thankfully missed everyone. Big gear for the top crack is not necessary as there's a good horizontal slot that takes couple of small cams.
 
Show beta
βeta: Good line and satisfying moves but not impressed with the quality of the rock. Took a surprise fall from an easy section when seemingly solid hold snapped in my hand. Also dislodged a few Bigmac sized blocks which thankfully missed everyone. Big gear for the top crack is not necessary as there's a good horizontal slot that takes couple of small cams.
John Alcock 16 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Rarely done but really good. Only dry late in the day. Take a little big gear.
 
Show beta
βeta: Rarely done but really good. Only dry late in the day. Take a little big gear.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Rocky1339 9 Jun Lead O/S Brilliant route! Really enjoyed, kinda got schooled by the cracks but its KRAKIN route! Must do :)
Brilliant route! Really enjoyed, kinda got schooled by the cracks but its KRAKIN route! Must do :)
Petar Samkov 9 Jun 2nd O/S Classic!!
Classic!!
Hidden 12 May 2nd O/S
Ollie B 12 May Lead O/S
with Robyn
with Robyn
myrddinmuse 6 May 2nd O/S Burly burly burly. Props to Heather for even wanting to lead this one! Made me shiver from the belay. Ripped my skin, but honestly just happy not to have fallen off. *** from me.
Burly burly burly. Props to Heather for even wanting to lead this one! Made me shiver from the belay. Ripped my skin, but honestly just happy not to have fallen off. *** from me.
Heather Osborne 6 May Lead So steep at the start, fantastic route, even better than expected!
So steep at the start, fantastic route, even better than expected!
Bernie L 5 May Lead O/S
with Brian
with Brian
DanWeiss 4 May 2nd
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 4 May Lead O/S
Frank the Husky 23 Apr -
with Fleuriot
with Fleuriot
Graeme Hammond 20 Apr Lead O/S Quality steep jamming :)
with bryan61
Quality steep jamming :)
with bryan61
bryan61 20 Apr 2nd rpt
Mike_Hayes 19 Apr Lead O/S
Hidden ?? -
jsmcfarland 5 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S Fantastic route. So steep in places! well protected and fun climbing, though some friable rock near the top.
Fantastic route. So steep in places! well protected and fun climbing, though some friable rock near the top.
Hidden 5 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
neilmclean 29 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Johnny Dawes
with Johnny Dawes
deklan 29 Aug, 2018 Lead
with con
with con
Tom.Priestley 17 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Wanted to climb the top crack as an offwidth but ended up just using the holds. Big gear not nessasry there is a 0.75 slot to protect the top part instead so just save that for the end.
Wanted to climb the top crack as an offwidth but ended up just using the holds. Big gear not nessasry there is a 0.75 slot to protect the top part instead so just save that for the end.
Scott Quinn 17 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
Chris Murray 5 Aug, 2018 2nd Holds on the initial overlap were damp and slimy. Fell off twice, but managed a ground up ascent on the third attempt.
with DMC
Holds on the initial overlap were damp and slimy. Fell off twice, but managed a ground up ascent on the third attempt.
with DMC
DMC 5 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
dmoir 22 Jul, 2018 2nd dog
with Ed Hastrop
with Ed Hastrop
Stroppy 22 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Loads of gear, but definitely an E2 imo.
with Dave
Loads of gear, but definitely an E2 imo.
with Dave
Hidden ?Jul, 2018 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
mcgovern 27 Jun, 2018 Lead
with dc
with dc
scarmichael 22 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S E2 anyday of the week!
with Mihkel
E2 anyday of the week!
with Mihkel
Hidden 22 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
Sujan limbu 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with shired leha
with shired leha
Toby 23 May, 2018 2nd
with Nate
with Nate
Stuckey 23 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Satisfying
with Margo
Satisfying
with Margo
aiyer 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S Something to calm the nerves... Lovely in the evening sun! E2 in the new guide book
with Wendy
Something to calm the nerves... Lovely in the evening sun! E2 in the new guide book
with Wendy
M_Robinson 5 May, 2018 Lead O/S Had my eye on this for ages, just ignored the wetness today!
with Chris Shepherd
Had my eye on this for ages, just ignored the wetness today!
with Chris Shepherd
Pete Wimbush 20 Apr, 2018 2nd
with Chris Hindley
with Chris Hindley
debsb ??, 2018 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 16 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
with Andrew Bevan
J_Spooner 29 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ben Smart
with Ben Smart
khalidq 29 Aug, 2017 2nd rpt
with Hywel Rowlands
with Hywel Rowlands
Hidden 10 Aug, 2017 2nd
bryan61 10 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
mountain.martin 10 Aug, 2017 2nd rpt
with louis
with louis
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
FaffmasterG 22 Jun, 2017 2nd β
Paul Eckton 28 Apr, 2017 2nd
with Kevster
with Kevster
Kevster 28 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Only a traditional route could give climbing like this. Very absorbing.
Only a traditional route could give climbing like this. Very absorbing.
mrteale 17 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Jake Young 17 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
with mrteale
with mrteale
Kirill 15 Apr, 2017 Lead Good line and satisfying moves but not impressed with the quality of the rock. Took a surprise fall from an easy section when seemingly solid hold snapped in my hand. Also dislodged a few Bigmac sized blocks which thankfully missed everyone. Big gear for the top crack is not necessary as there's a good horizontal slot that takes couple of small cams.
Good line and satisfying moves but not impressed with the quality of the rock. Took a surprise fall from an easy section when seemingly solid hold snapped in my hand. Also dislodged a few Bigmac sized blocks which thankfully missed everyone. Big gear for the top crack is not necessary as there's a good horizontal slot that takes couple of small cams.
Justin T 15 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Fairly enjoyable low down but a fairly unpleasantly chossy top-out. Not the worst climbing experience out there, but not one I'll be rushing to repeat.
Fairly enjoyable low down but a fairly unpleasantly chossy top-out. Not the worst climbing experience out there, but not one I'll be rushing to repeat.
Gus 15 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with malx
with malx
Ilia Nadyrbayev 15 Apr, 2017 2nd
with Kirill
with Kirill
Hidden 8 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 Lead
khalidq 15 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Greg Cunningham 9 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with Debbie
with Debbie
Martin Bagshaw 1 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Ed Green
with Ed Green
JulesV 31 May, 2016 Lead O/S
steveboote 28 May, 2016 2nd
with Jumper Mark
with Jumper Mark
Hidden ?May, 2016 2nd RP
Andy Peak 1 29 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Almost went for full off with aproch to the top crack, lay away and use the foot holds its much better
with Theo
Almost went for full off with aproch to the top crack, lay away and use the foot holds its much better
with Theo
Hidden 9 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2015 2nd
Brian H 15 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S Much more enjoyable than it looks.
Much more enjoyable than it looks.
Hidden 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 7 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Needed big gear for the top, didn't have any... Enjoyed it though .
with KP
Needed big gear for the top, didn't have any... Enjoyed it though .
with KP
soph 16 Jul, 2015 2nd rpt
with Adam Brown
with Adam Brown
ian d f 4 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Not sure whether this was enjoyable or not. Probably better in the afternoon, once the moisture has gone!
Not sure whether this was enjoyable or not. Probably better in the afternoon, once the moisture has gone!
pearson9596 4 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
morganator 25 May, 2015 Lead
nicola parkin 25 May, 2015 2nd O/S
Flavio 25 May, 2015 Lead O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 9 Apr, 2015 2nd
mike lawrence? 9 Apr, 2015 Lead
Hulda 5 Apr, 2015 2nd
with Andrew1
with Andrew1
Andrew1 5 Apr, 2015 Lead
with Hulda
with Hulda
Monster 18 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
with Robin Neath, Steve Quinton
with Robin Neath, Steve Quinton
NuclearNev ??, 2015 -
nickstephens 8 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with gg4419
with gg4419
gg4419 8 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
valecoastclimber 6 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
simon kimber 5 Sep, 2014 2nd
with Rob Andrews
with Rob Andrews
nuts and bolts ?Sep, 2014 -
dan gibson 30 Aug, 2014 2nd rpt
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 30 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
tim newton 19 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 19 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Wanted to do this for years. Better than it looks! Glad to have a biggish cam for the top.
Wanted to do this for years. Better than it looks! Glad to have a biggish cam for the top.
pipof747 ?Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Olli-C 3 May, 2014 Lead dnf Broke a large foothold at the bottom, got to below the wide crack at bottled it.
Broke a large foothold at the bottom, got to below the wide crack at bottled it.
shed_hed 20 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S Greasy at the start. Actually enjoyed this more than I thought I would!
Greasy at the start. Actually enjoyed this more than I thought I would!
The Grist 20 Apr, 2014 2nd
dswansonlow 20 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 20 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Just one hard move at the start, but not very hard. The rest is steady, fun climbing. Lot better than it looks.
Just one hard move at the start, but not very hard. The rest is steady, fun climbing. Lot better than it looks.
steve.warrington 31 Aug, 2013 Lead β
Ed morris 24 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
shoulders 19 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 Lead
mikeyjbs 9 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Charles Green
with Charles Green
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead
Hidden 4 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Grezza 18 May, 2013 Lead awkward and - if everyone is honest- not particularly pleasant
with Paul E
awkward and - if everyone is honest- not particularly pleasant
with Paul E
Fran S8 6 May, 2013 2nd
Goose4 26 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2013 -
quiffhanger 14 Jul, 2012 2nd rpt
theotherpetehill 14 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Ross McKerchar
with Ross McKerchar
ellis 20 May, 2012 2nd O/S
with Alan Willoner
with Alan Willoner
Billg 19 May, 2012 Lead O/S Really great route. Take the biggest cam you own for the top crack!
with Ollie B
Really great route. Take the biggest cam you own for the top crack!
with Ollie B
pembrokeshirecaver 16 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Adam
with Adam
david morse 15 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Josh,Nath+Mikey
with Josh,Nath+Mikey
Dean177 7 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
with Dibdawg
with Dibdawg
Dibdawg 7 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Dean177
with Dean177
Hidden 2 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Katya 28 Aug, 2011 2nd dog
with ChrisC
with ChrisC
Haydn Jones 8 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S hard start but eased up
with dan
hard start but eased up
with dan
tonanf ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
with john sun
with john sun
mountain.martin 14 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S Exciting, varied climbing with an adventurous feel, although it is well protected. A confidant commited approach helps.
Exciting, varied climbing with an adventurous feel, although it is well protected. A confidant commited approach helps.
feilx 3 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with La Mont
with La Mont
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
barni 27 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 27 Jun, 2011 2nd
with barni
with barni
Hidden 24 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 24 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
Phill Mitch 23 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
with mick
with mick
Alex Mason 15 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Wanted to do this for an age but always greasy. Was today but did it anyway. Awesome route, a proper trad climb. E2 without a few big cams (3+ size and quantity).
Wanted to do this for an age but always greasy. Was today but did it anyway. Awesome route, a proper trad climb. E2 without a few big cams (3+ size and quantity).
dan gibson 21 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with richard lade
with richard lade
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
ksjs 31 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S tricky enough wee start then pleasure all the way. better than Rockfax makes out
with phil
tricky enough wee start then pleasure all the way. better than Rockfax makes out
with phil
3 Names 28 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 27 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Chosen for the shade it provided but turned out to be better than expectations. The top offwidth was errr... fun? Not.
Chosen for the shade it provided but turned out to be better than expectations. The top offwidth was errr... fun? Not.
Hidden 27 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
irish paul 15 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
with Sarah Joyce
catblack 12 Aug, 2010 2nd dog
Andrew Barker 12 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S A brilliant and underrated route marred only by its proximity to the chossy corner at the top and the fact that it tops out into choss. A steep thuggy start followed by a more delicate finish. I thought it was tough for E1.
A brilliant and underrated route marred only by its proximity to the chossy corner at the top and the fact that it tops out into choss. A steep thuggy start followed by a more delicate finish. I thought it was tough for E1.
Rich Kirby 7 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with nige
with nige
Hidden 5 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
metal arms 20 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 11 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S A few holds snapped off - probably shouldn't be starred
with Conner - UBMC
A few holds snapped off - probably shouldn't be starred
with Conner - UBMC
conorjclarke 11 Jun, 2010 2nd If you like wet overhanging cracks with lots of loose rock and a first-move crux that strongly resembles a one-arm pullup, this is the climb for you.
with Ant
If you like wet overhanging cracks with lots of loose rock and a first-move crux that strongly resembles a one-arm pullup, this is the climb for you.
with Ant
Hidden 4 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2010 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 1 May, 2010 Lead O/S
mattyork2 12 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
RobRock84 9 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S what a great climb,really enjoyed this route
with Robin neath
what a great climb,really enjoyed this route
with Robin neath
cem 30 Aug, 2009 2nd
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
clipskipper 2 May, 2009 2nd dog Steep, steep start, and the crack further up defeated my tired arms.
with Davey Boy
Steep, steep start, and the crack further up defeated my tired arms.
with Davey Boy
chris wyatt 29 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S I would recommend this route to anyone who likes 'real old skool' stuff. Jamming, laybacking, difficult gear placements (especially without big cams) Dampness etc. You can't beat it
I would recommend this route to anyone who likes 'real old skool' stuff. Jamming, laybacking, difficult gear placements (especially without big cams) Dampness etc. You can't beat it
Hidden 29 Mar, 2009 2nd rpt
Aaron Lines ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Jul, 2007 2nd
Paz 7 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S Hard move at the start took me a while. Don't forget a Cam 5 or so if you've got one.
Hard move at the start took me a while. Don't forget a Cam 5 or so if you've got one.
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Ricky Rocks ??, 2006 2nd O/S
Boy ??, 2006 -
daveayton ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Andy S 22 May, 2004 Lead O/S
with Rich
with Rich
alex_th 11 Apr, 2004 2nd
with Tim Riley
with Tim Riley
dickypips ??, 2003 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ??, 2001 -
steveb2006 8 Sep, 1999 Lead Greasy
Greasy
MikePycroft 8 Sep, 1999 2nd
MikePycroft 8 Sep, 1999 2nd
Hidden 1 May, 1999 Lead O/S
Steve Long ??, 1997 Lead
Hidden ??, 1994 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ??, 1993 Lead
scott titt ??, 1989 2nd
Nigel Coe ??, 1989 Lead
pauldrew ??, 1989 -
Dave Musgrove 17 Apr, 1987 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Jan, 1983 -
Hidden 3 May, 1982 -
Lone Rider ??, 1982 -
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 45
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set