Restricted Access

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points) This restriction has been lifted for 2024 as of 27th May 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 






Rockfax Description
A beefy route which makes the most of the good rock around the rubble-filled chimney. Start 6m left of the prominent crack of the Kraken. Follow the easiest line up the bulging wall until it is possible to bridge across to the left wall of the chimney. Pull left and climb up to the niche of The Call Up. Pull up rightwards through the roof into a hanging niche and layback urgently up the wide crack on the right. Easier ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. A.Donson, M.Rose 11/Jun/1994.


User Date Notes
Ed morris 21 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A fair bit of sandy but solid rock low down. Totally solid and well protected once pas the bridge across.
Show beta
βeta: A fair bit of sandy but solid rock low down. Totally solid and well protected once pas the bridge across.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Route of Interest
Out of My Mind

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Stennis Head)

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