Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
A beefy route which makes the most of the good rock around the rubble-filled chimney. Start 6m left of the prominent crack of the Kraken. Follow the easiest line up the bulging wall until it is possible to bridge across to the left wall of the chimney. Pull left and climb up to the niche of The Call Up. Pull up rightwards through the roof into a hanging niche and layback urgently up the wide crack on the right. Easier ground leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. A.Donson, M.Rose 11/Jun/1994.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ed morris | 21 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: A fair bit of sandy but solid rock low down. Totally solid and well protected once pas the bridge across. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: A fair bit of sandy but solid rock low down. Totally solid and well protected once pas the bridge across. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Hannah
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Lydstep Cavern Bay)