Rockfax Description
An underrated route which is probably as good as Tactician. Start as for the last three routes but move right and climb a crack to gain a left-trending scoop. Follow this into the triangular niche and then move up to a ledge. Make a deceptive move up the groove above to reach a ledge, then climb the wildly-positioned corner to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Botteril 04/Apr/1979

luke glaister 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Really good route. I was a bit eadgy in the heat but battled on. The top there is a big flake that's got a lot of movement in it. It's on the right of the roof at the top and obviously a big hold so go steady.

Tala A 26/Aug/17 2nd O/S
hfotheri 19/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with simon
Longsufferingropeholder 13/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Mike
Ian MK 07/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden ?/Aug/17 -
rosiehawker 02/Jul/17 2nd
with Mike
mikeski 02/Jul/17 Lead
with Rosie
goddamm7 17/Jun/17 2nd O/S
goddamm7 17/Jun/17 2nd O/S
LDudill 16/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Cool route! Steep for the grade but luckily a lot of wide bridging helps! Bomber gear throughout though!

with Rich
Richard Kendrick 16/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with Paul, Luke
goddamm7 16/Jun/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/May/17 Lead dog
Sophie Nunn 20/May/17 Lead O/S
with Mike R, Jane W
Jane Weir 20/May/17 2nd β
with Mike R, Sophie Nunn
JamesWilliams 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S
pete1993 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S

good from start to end, wild position to finish in the groove

with David
JendeHoxar 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Great steep moves on huge holds - how is this not worth 3 stars?!

robgixer 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Lenny 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Hidden
Lessworkmoreclimbing 26/Aug/16 2nd

Had led many years ago, in one of those flow moments. Good to get back on it and reminisce!

with Kev
amccann 24/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Shaun H
shaunhumphreys 24/Aug/16 Lead rpt

forgot i did this! felt horrendous in the mega heat of the day!

with Alex M
khalidq 15/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ian Lau
Hidden 15/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Emily 07/Aug/16 2nd O/S

My favourite climb of the weekend, really enjoyed this and I think I managed some good moves on it.

with Nick
Nick Russell 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Another great E1 at Pembroke. You don't have to go far round the corner even at St Govan's to get away from the crowds.

with Emily
Hidden 30/Jul/16 2nd
Pavol 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
td72 24/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Felt hard and unrelenting at the grade, great route though.

bryan61 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

sustained there are easier e2's

with Tom D
Lakesben 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 17/Jun/16 2nd
cem 17/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with Deniz Sumengen
Richard Kendrick 30/May/16 Lead rpt
jon_gill1 30/May/16 2nd rpt
ASchwirtz 29/May/16 2nd O/S
with Russ
Russtygibbons 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with Ant
Jack93 29/May/16 Lead O/S

Had an interesting time when I got up to a ledge with a seagull nest on it! Luckily we reached an undestanding and all it did was squawk

Hidden 29/May/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/May/16 2nd
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead O/S
brices 08/May/16 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this

with Llinos
Sarah Black ??/2016 Lead O/S
Richard Kendrick 01/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Jon Gill
jon_gill1 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Richard Kendrick, nick loc
Tom.Priestley 31/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Awesome jugfest.

Richard Kendrick 31/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/15 2nd
Scott Quinn 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant, steep... jugfest

Tim Sparrow 27/Aug/15 -

Very steep! Slab lizards like me will struggle.

with Ian Armstrong
Dawn_K_B 18/Aug/15 2nd O/S
shaunhumphreys 18/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Dawn
MD 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Mark H
callumbtaylor 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Gainz 21/Jul/15 2nd O/S

The route went through a sea gull nest. Unpleasant.

soph 19/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Adam Brown
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead dog
LJKing 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Paul Clarkson
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead rpt
elliptic 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tom R.
Mike_Hayes 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Mike Lea
Hidden ?/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Justin T ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Nick B
Mark Warnett ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
AidanBT 22/Mar/15 2nd dog
Greg Cunningham ??/2015 2nd
with guy exley
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Kirill 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
gurumed 26/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with gjd
gjd 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Gurumed
simon kimber 05/Sep/14 2nd
with Rob Andrews
ollie_e 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 2nd
red_rhodesha 23/Aug/14 2nd
Rob Rocket 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Scooter Young 22/Aug/14 2nd
Steven Carter 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/14 2nd RP
3 Names 05/Aug/14 Lead β
adam 24 14/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Backed off due to grease and angry gulls

with Paul Clarkson
Hoyes 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Found the crux hard to read. Initially went too far left (and placed a high number 10 stopper now institute) before realising I needed to be further right.

Batt 26/May/14 2nd rpt

Finished up line to left due to seagull on nest below corner

tobydunford 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Olli-C 04/May/14 2nd rpt
with Hamish, Adam Knightly
hlegge 04/May/14 Lead O/S

A thuggish route in parts, but with good rests between difficulties. Lovely line and a nice challenge. Sadly, it was the last route before my back packed in, so last route at Pembroke this year :(

with Olli Crudge, Adam Knightly
pete johnson ?/May/14 -
with emma alsford
Hidden 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Brannock 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Really good, few lose bits at the top but rest is pretty solid, arms felt pretty tired pulling thorough the overhang and top groove.

Kevster 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S


Mike Tutt 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Andrew1 11/Apr/14 Lead
with Hulda
Hulda 11/Apr/14 2nd
with Andi
Dean Russell 03/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead rpt
phil64 ?/Apr/14 2nd

in the rain

with tom livingstone
Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
tonevert ??/2014 2nd
with Kevin Faux
Stefan_Morris 05/Oct/13 Lead
steve.warrington 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Shauna 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jules
JulesV 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
froglette 11/Aug/13 2nd dog

but only one brief rest at crux

with John Proudfoot
Dibdawg 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Good warm up route!

with Richard Snow
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Jake Young 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S


Grezza 18/May/13 Lead
with Paul E
Olli-C 06/May/13 2nd O/S

soapy, tough.

Rachel Slater 06/May/13 Lead O/S
tlmarjot 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Baker
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd O/S
tomB 05/May/13 2nd O/S
adie84 ??/2013 -
VPJB ??/2013 -
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd rpt
dprctr 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Damn you Paul Jones. Limestone trad is unpredictable and scary!

with Patrick
mountain_jay 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S

good value. 2 stars

Hidden 25/Aug/12 Lead
dswansonlow 13/Aug/12 2nd O/S
jacobjlloyd 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Dougie
Hidden 08/Jul/12 Lead
andy dunn 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
simonf 13/May/12 Lead O/S
with Simon
pembrokeshirecaver 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with Adam
alasdair19 ?/May/12 -
benchwarmer 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S
haydng 06/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Dave
pie_eater_pete 02/Apr/12 2nd
bwestwood ?/Apr/12 Lead
Ciro 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ramon
Ramon Marin 17/Mar/12 2nd
with ciaran tracey
Hidden 30/Sep/11 Lead
Batt 30/Sep/11 2nd O/S


with Mel
Hidden 30/Sep/11 2nd dog
Hidden 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure 17/Sep/11 2nd
with Jon L
Katya 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 27/Aug/11 Lead
Bry 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
Dizz 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S


with Matt K
Graham Iles 26/Aug/11 Lead
with Neil Stabbs
jgordon75 14/Aug/11 2nd
Owen W-G 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jim
Ollie B 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with L.Postlewaith
Fran S8 11/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/11 Lead
redjerry ?/Aug/11 TR O/S
tatz45 ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with john sun
Adam Booth 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
edmitchell 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
haydng 23/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Dave
chris wyatt 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Really excellent

with Rowan Crawford
Jessie Rushbrooke 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Si
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Dave Foster 19/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Jim, Si
ojp 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Steady climbing

with Jim, Dave
Ed morris 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Excellent route, straightforward E1 climbing

with Martin
mountain.martin 06/Jun/11 2nd O/S

good rests between crux sections one to lead sometime

with Edmund
Tommy Cole ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Rained all over me, got pumped and scared off my tits placing a piece lower down. Loved it!

with Max Stanley
feilx 30/May/11 Lead rpt
with Heather
bigdrew 29/May/11 2nd O/S
with Si
Si dH 29/May/11 Lead O/S

Had to fight on this, a few damp holds didnt help but I think its way harder than the arrow. Slabby scoop felt a bit scary (safe really but the gear closest to me seemed crap) and the crux steep groove was really quite tough for E1 - good pro but several steep sustained 5b moves with no rests.

with Andy
Jon_Warner 28/May/11 Lead O/S

Quite cruxy but not helped by grease. Good long route with an awesome finish.

al99 14/May/11 Lead O/S
martinazando 14/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
HeatherF 03/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Duncan Campbell 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing, not much harder than Tactitian, but maybe a bit bolder and more go-ey in the lower section. Top corner is an absolute dream to climb, really exposed 4c/5a climbing.

Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
going going gone 03/Oct/10 Lead β
steve.warrington 02/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Dan Hobbs
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure 29/Aug/10 2nd
with Andy Gray
Rob Pitt 29/Aug/10 2nd
with Owen Davies
Ketu 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 27/Aug/10 2nd O/S

really nice crux sequence, well worth the 2 stars in the new rockfax guide

haydng 24/Aug/10 Lead
with RachelG, Dave
RMG 24/Aug/10 2nd
with haydng
RagingPuffin 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Al
Paul ablitt 17/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Dave Foster 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Steady with plenty of rests. Good route, worth a couple of stars.

with Andy
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve 13/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Tony Payne
tigertim 13/Aug/10 2nd
with Tony Payne
tigertim 13/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Tony Payne
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Dave Ripley
d_meacher 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
irish paul 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Sidekick ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 30/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Bloody hard work! Was given the impression it was soft E1... I don't think so personally! It was very greasy though and spitting rain slightly. Quite brutal and thuggy in various places, but satisfying to complete

Hidden 30/Jul/10 Lead O/S
JonBrown 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Arnaud
ASchwirtz 14/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Cocky
Hidden 14/Jun/10 2nd O/S
gnc760 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with James Kay
adam coxsell 13/Jun/10 Lead dog
with ant
conorjclarke 11/Jun/10 2nd
with Ant
ASchwirtz 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Accidentally got on to the E4 - No Mans's land and rested on the graunchy overhanging crack line before stepping onto the correct route. Doh!

with Conner - UBMC
Paul Bowen 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Chad123 24/May/10 AltLd rpt

Still a great route, well worth two stars and felt easier than last time even with sprained thumb....

with Emily
feilx 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 16/May/10 2nd O/S
metal arms 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Pown 09/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Mr Sparkle 30/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Misha 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd
chris j 29/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Doug
Hidden 21/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/09 2nd O/S
haydng 12/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Rob
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
chris sm 31/May/09 2nd O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Chad123 18/May/09 AltLd O/S

Excellent varied route, 2 stars at least - similar but a bit easier to Deranged. Quite full value with tricky slab, pumpy bulge and testing, airy finish...

with James Humble
Ed Babs 07/May/09 2nd O/S
with Harry
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead O/S
Different Steve 02/May/09 Lead rpt
with Clio
david morse 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Juan
Clee 02/May/09 2nd
with Steve
joehanks61 02/May/09 -
with Guy Reid
simonp ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Neil Stabbs
RobRock84 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Steve Quinton
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd
matt.woodfield 22/Feb/09 AltLd
Hidden 14/Aug/08 Lead O/S
gforce 08/Aug/08 2nd
with Jason
tonanf 08/Aug/08 AltLd
with Pep
morganator 11/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Rich Cross
just one more 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with tim b
Ramon Marin 26/May/08 Lead O/S
with Gerry Sheehy
RocknRoll 25/May/08 2nd dog

Almost made it clean but I was so marginal all the way, greasy from the rain, three tenuous cruxes, the exit one got me.

with Ramon Marin Martinez
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead rpt
haydng 27/Apr/08 2nd rpt
with Will
haydng 26/Mar/08 Lead rpt
with Rachel
nicolat ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 25/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 20/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/07 2nd β
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 04/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Tony Little 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ed Brown
Hidden 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Tim W 24/Mar/07 2nd rpt
jfreeman 28/Jan/07 Lead O/S
simonr 28/Jan/07 2nd
Ricky Rocks ??/2007 2nd O/S
willjones ??/2007 Lead O/S
janegallwey ??/2007 Lead
NeilGriffiths 29/Aug/06 -
bfreeman ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/06 Lead rpt
chris j 24/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with James & Doug
Mark Davies PK 01/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Chris j
chris j 01/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Mark Davies
Tim W 01/May/06 2nd O/S
with Pippa Whitehouse, Jamie Moss
Different Steve 01/May/06 2nd O/S
PaulTanton 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Neil Ireson ?/Aug/05 Lead
with John
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
LC ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/04 Lead O/S
Ben1983 ?/May/04 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 12/Apr/04 2nd O/S
with KM
alex_th 11/Apr/04 2nd
with Tim Riley
Hidden ?/Nov/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/03 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/02 Lead O/S
PaulTclimbing ??/2002 -
with Johnjames, Trelewis gang, Neville, Adrian, Neil, Howell graham
cem 27/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Neil Northrop
jfletcher 22/Jun/01 Lead O/S
jonka ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/1999 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/Sep/98 2nd
sadams 15/Aug/98 Lead
with Pete Bukowski
duncan 15/Aug/98 2nd
with Dan Donovan
Rich Kirby ?/May/98 2nd
Steve Long ??/1997 Lead
Hidden 27/May/96 -
Hidden 29/Aug/93 Lead
Hidden 29/Aug/93 Lead
Hidden 29/Aug/93 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Neil McA 18/Apr/87 2nd O/S
with Andy Perkins
andy gittins ??/1987 -
malc 10/Apr/85 2nd
ukb & bmc shark 18/Sep/84 Lead O/S
steve.aisthorpe 18/Sep/84 2nd
with shark
Mark Kemball 03/Apr/83 2nd
with Dave McCann
Dave Musgrove 10/Apr/82 -
Hidden 22/Nov/81 Lead
Hidden 22/Nov/81 -
18 users have this on their wishlist
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 71
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 71
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set