UKC

Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  The restriction on the D-Day area has been lifted for the 2023 season as of 3rd July.

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)    RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

36m.

Rockfax Description
The arete left of the big groove of Tactician usually has a tempting thread dangling from its upper section. Start as for Tactician but break left along a crack to a junction with War Games. Move right around the arete and then climb a hard crack to a ledge. Finish up the arete above in a magnificent position. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson, P.Harrison 03/May/1986.

Ticklists

Theo's Pembroke ticklist , 30 For My 30s , The Local Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
James Oswald 9 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: If you climb the crux on the arete it\'s desperate, right of the arete is much easier.
Show beta
βeta: If you climb the crux on the arete it's desperate, right of the arete is much easier.
ian bryant 12 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Threads looked pretty good on 11.8.20
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Threads looked pretty good on 11.8.20
Billg 2 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Threads are getting old. Both would probably take 10mm rope.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Threads are getting old. Both would probably take 10mm rope.
John Alcock 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Wild. The thread wears easily over the winter and may need replacing regularly. There are nuts just below to back it up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wild. The thread wears easily over the winter and may need replacing regularly. There are nuts just below to back it up.

Logged Ascents

111 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 23
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sweet Smell of Sucess

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Stackpole Head)

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