Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
The route up the wall right of Deranged has a steep start with a wicked move. Start 4m right of Deranged. Pull up the wall on huge holds until they run out then make a hard move to a ledge. Move up then swing right onto a slabby groove which leads more easily to a break below the overhanging headwall. Finger traverse right to the arete, then move back left to a large hold above. Finish direct. © Rockfax
FA. B.Berzins, C.Sowden 22/Aug/1981.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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W d c | 28 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Big jugs to below cracks. Difficult moves to ledge with good gear ( small friends ) at feet. Good holds traverse into blind climbing up the groove. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Big jugs to below cracks. Difficult moves to ledge with good gear ( small friends ) at feet. Good holds traverse into blind climbing up the groove. |
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Steve Crowe | 6 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I tried a cunning sequence slightly right and fell off! returned to some more straight forward crimping and sidepulls slightly left and that worked just fine. Suggest that you remove "Make a baffling move upwards" it pursuaded me to try something bizzare instead of the obvious! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I tried a cunning sequence slightly right and fell off! returned to some more straight forward crimping and sidepulls slightly left and that worked just fine. Suggest that you remove "Make a baffling move upwards" it pursuaded me to try something bizzare instead of the obvious! |
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Skrinkle Haven)