Rockfax Description
Strike uphill through light brush to the base of the ridge.
1) Follow the narrowing and steepening arete (3 - red dots) to the summit of El Realet One (548m).
2) Continue along the awesome knife-edge ridge (4 c) past the occasional bolt - very exposed - to a midway summit.
3) From the midway summit, scrambling along the ridge gains a short step down, or jump (3 ) to easier ground that rises to the summit of El Realet Two (799m) - also marked on maps as Penya dels Castellets.
4) From the summit of El Realet Two, descend easily until a bolted abseil station is encountered as the ground starts to steepen.
5) Abseil 30m to less steep ground and scramble down to a col.
6) Continue along the exposed, castellated ridge (3 ) to a bolted abseil station.
7) Abseil 20m to a col.
8) Walk up the broad ridge to the summit of El Realet Three.
9) From the summit of El Realet Three, retrace your steps back along the ridge for 70m to a white patch of gravel.
10) Go down a ramp leftwards a short distance to the start of a vegetated gully. Don't go down the gully, instead, zig-zag down the vegetated face and pick up a vague path that again heads leftwards.
11) Follow the vague path for about 100m and locate an abseil point on the small ridge to the right (next to a pine tree).
12) Make a 25m abseil to ledges, and follow another vague path past some orange dots to another abseil point, just before the V-notch.
13) Either downclimb to the V-notch (4a ) or abseil to easy ground just below the V-notch.
14) Scramble down the path to easier ground and terraces, before heading across terraces to a low ridge on the right above a house. Follow the ridge to the road and pick-up point. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, Costa Blanca 25 by 2025

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
jk29 26 Apr AltLd Great route, long day out with plenty of faff, plus a run at the end since we only had one car. Points worth noting; the first abseil is just over 30m as our 60m didn’t quite reach the bottom (would recommend a 70m rope); there is a ring on a bolt before the second abseil noted in Rockfax, we came off Castellated ridge here - it’s almost bang on 30m so would recommend a 70m rope; do not drive up as far as possible to the base of the ridge before setting off, this is a private road - the owner was very friendly and didn’t seem to mind too much but asked us not to again
with Rob, Anna, JonParton
Great route, long day out with plenty of faff, plus a run at the end since we only had one car. Points worth noting; the first abseil is just over 30m as our 60m didn’t quite reach the bottom (would recommend a 70m rope); there is a ring on a bolt before the second abseil noted in Rockfax, we came off Castellated ridge here - it’s almost bang on 30m so would recommend a 70m rope; do not drive up as far as possible to the base of the ridge before setting off, this is a private road - the owner was very friendly and didn’t seem to mind too much but asked us not to again
with Rob, Anna, JonParton
JonParton 26 Apr AltLd O/S
with jk29
with jk29
Hidden 29 Mar 2nd
Hidden 29 Mar Lead O/S
Matt Magecha 29 Mar 2nd
with Jaidigi
with Jaidigi
Rory Shaw 23 Mar -
with jkfb, jkfb
with jkfb, jkfb
Hidden 23 Mar -
Mark Eddy 9 Jan Lead Really nice to traverse this again. As much fun as I remembered and brilliant exposure. All the climbing is straightforward, more like top end scrambling. 60m rope needed as a minimum for one of the abseils
with Kim Jackson, KateA
Really nice to traverse this again. As much fun as I remembered and brilliant exposure. All the climbing is straightforward, more like top end scrambling. 60m rope needed as a minimum for one of the abseils
with Kim Jackson, KateA
Hidden 18 Dec, 2018 2nd
Smithy90 18 Dec, 2018 2nd
millingworth3 18 Dec, 2018 -
Hidden 18 Dec, 2018 2nd
dw.rob4 18 Dec, 2018 2nd
Hidden 18 Dec, 2018 2nd
Bethan May Davies 20 Feb, 2018 Solo
john lynch 20 Feb, 2018 - Great day out.
with Bethan May Davies, Lewis Andrew
Great day out.
with Bethan May Davies, Lewis Andrew
tobyk 13 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Did from our apartment, door to door took 11.5 hrs. Such a fun route!
with sadie, karl_waterhouse, Emma Knights
Did from our apartment, door to door took 11.5 hrs. Such a fun route!
with sadie, karl_waterhouse, Emma Knights
Steve Woollard 20 Jan, 2018 AltLd
with Rich
with Rich
meanderthal 2 Jan, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 2 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Dec, 2017 2nd O/S
swmackey 7 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S
Whitmoreaa 5 Dec, 2017 Solo O/S Retreated after pitch 5 on advice from local guru rich Mayfield. Probably could have continued as we had loads of time left
Retreated after pitch 5 on advice from local guru rich Mayfield. Probably could have continued as we had loads of time left
Hidden 5 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S
Tommo0930 3 Dec, 2017 2nd O/S
mjeffery 10 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S 4 1/2 hours car to car
4 1/2 hours car to car
largejason 10 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
Andypeak 8 Nov, 2017 -
gaz3212 8 Nov, 2017 -
Yox89 5 Nov, 2017 2nd
Hidden 5 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
Wyndcliff Wizard of the West 19 Oct, 2017 2nd RP
TommyKips 19 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S Great ridge with enough bolts, had no need for a rack. The castellated ridge on pitch 6 is a bit awkward and crumbling in the middle quite badly but it is fine. Goodluck finding the correct path to the road (if there is one) and prepare to be scratched to death by shrubbery!
Great ridge with enough bolts, had no need for a rack. The castellated ridge on pitch 6 is a bit awkward and crumbling in the middle quite badly but it is fine. Goodluck finding the correct path to the road (if there is one) and prepare to be scratched to death by shrubbery!
Phil_Brock 8 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S Amazing climb - lots of easy scrambling mixed with a few hard sections. Great exposure with some excellent sharp ridge sections. Awesome day out!
Amazing climb - lots of easy scrambling mixed with a few hard sections. Great exposure with some excellent sharp ridge sections. Awesome day out!
vertical worm ?Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Mar, 2017 AltLd
ewanjp 11 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Great route! Really nice - a step up from the Bernia ridge. Did with one car, for anyone else thinking about it it's 5.5km from the pickup point to the parking spot. Did the first two 4c pitches after the top of el Realet 1 belayed after that just soloed it, with the exception of the step 6 when we moved together on a rope. Took a rack but didn't use it - only placed one cam, the rest we protected with the infrequent bolts or with slings. Rock is very sharp so don't bring your thinnest slings! The grade 4c is fair but you want to be confident at that level as you definitely do not want to fall off on the first bit! Only downer on the day was that our hire car got broken into (nothing left in it) - we left it at the start point which is on the main road (CV758) and very isloated. If I was doing it again (with one car again) i'd leave it at the 'pick up point' in rockfax - much less likely to get broken into there. If you see any white blobs in the pine trees stay away - these are nests of processionary caterpillars and whose hairs will burn your skin.
with Pete Kittoe
Great route! Really nice - a step up from the Bernia ridge. Did with one car, for anyone else thinking about it it's 5.5km from the pickup point to the parking spot. Did the first two 4c pitches after the top of el Realet 1 belayed after that just soloed it, with the exception of the step 6 when we moved together on a rope. Took a rack but didn't use it - only placed one cam, the rest we protected with the infrequent bolts or with slings. Rock is very sharp so don't bring your thinnest slings! The grade 4c is fair but you want to be confident at that level as you definitely do not want to fall off on the first bit! Only downer on the day was that our hire car got broken into (nothing left in it) - we left it at the start point which is on the main road (CV758) and very isloated. If I was doing it again (with one car again) i'd leave it at the 'pick up point' in rockfax - much less likely to get broken into there. If you see any white blobs in the pine trees stay away - these are nests of processionary caterpillars and whose hairs will burn your skin.
with Pete Kittoe
Hidden ?Mar, 2017 AltLd
will_benfold 30 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S Moved together on the 4+ part, soloed most of the rest. Great fun!
Moved together on the 4+ part, soloed most of the rest. Great fun!
gaz3212 4 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
powelli 20 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Oct, 2016 AltLd
andrew.tyrrell 20 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Phenomenal route! Amazing exposure on the knife edges, but with brand new bolts at decent intervals. First ab very much 30m, as my feet touched the ground at the same time as the knots in the ends of the rope (60m) touched my prussik! Got to an abseil station slightly early for the second ab, with rap ring attached to second bolt by tat (which we replaced). We realised we should have carried on down the slabby ridge a bit more, but abbed off it anyway into free space and then onto easy ground (~20m). Sat on summit of El Realet three waiting for our other group when the thunder started, so quickly backtracked to the col to find the descent route. We thought we were zig-zagging down the correct 'vegetated face', but ended up bypassing the third ab, which actually saved us time. For the final ab, we descended by the orange dots, off tat around a flake and through a peg. The heavens opened and we were soaked through within minutes. Final walk/scramble/glissade down through the scrubland was extremely muddy! Total time ~8.5hrs, including 30mins at summit of El Realet two, and about an hour on El Realet three waiting for our second group
Phenomenal route! Amazing exposure on the knife edges, but with brand new bolts at decent intervals. First ab very much 30m, as my feet touched the ground at the same time as the knots in the ends of the rope (60m) touched my prussik! Got to an abseil station slightly early for the second ab, with rap ring attached to second bolt by tat (which we replaced). We realised we should have carried on down the slabby ridge a bit more, but abbed off it anyway into free space and then onto easy ground (~20m). Sat on summit of El Realet three waiting for our other group when the thunder started, so quickly backtracked to the col to find the descent route. We thought we were zig-zagging down the correct 'vegetated face', but ended up bypassing the third ab, which actually saved us time. For the final ab, we descended by the orange dots, off tat around a flake and through a peg. The heavens opened and we were soaked through within minutes. Final walk/scramble/glissade down through the scrubland was extremely muddy! Total time ~8.5hrs, including 30mins at summit of El Realet two, and about an hour on El Realet three waiting for our second group
Juan S 15 Oct, 2016 Lead
with Wei
with Wei
LivBarron 3 Oct, 2016 AltLd
Karlgreasley 22 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Juan Ruiz 9 Apr, 2016 2nd
with Pepe Seiquer, Lola CMM
with Pepe Seiquer, Lola CMM
Kieran Duncan 14 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Sam, Ben, Freya
with Sam, Ben, Freya
bryan p 27 Dec, 2015 -
with Kay Dee, James
with Kay Dee, James
Hidden 27 Dec, 2015 -
onlyfoddington 19 Dec, 2015 2nd O/S Smashed guidebook time - an hour less including walking back 6km up the road as opposed to using a second car. In danger of becoming competent?
Smashed guidebook time - an hour less including walking back 6km up the road as opposed to using a second car. In danger of becoming competent?
pearson9596 19 Dec, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Nov, 2015 -
Hidden 6 Nov, 2015 Solo O/S
Phil Murray 7 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S Great day out, in guidebook time 6:08! Walk in description was slightly wrong but we were oK. First summit was a fun scramble - no need to rope up just be careful. Next bit was awesoem - enough pro / bolts, and not technically 4+ tho I do not disagree with this being stated. You do need a 60m rope for the big abseil. There was an addition mini-ab ring on the second ridge, this caused one of our party confusion, I assume it was just to protect the smooth ridge to to the next bolt, but he tried to abseil off into space on the LHS then had to hand-over-hand to get back up. Next abseil was fine but felt more than 20m .Minor errors in description of route down didnt' marr our day but in fog could be an issue. Highly recommended!
with Liz, Fenella, Steve Wright
Great day out, in guidebook time 6:08! Walk in description was slightly wrong but we were oK. First summit was a fun scramble - no need to rope up just be careful. Next bit was awesoem - enough pro / bolts, and not technically 4+ tho I do not disagree with this being stated. You do need a 60m rope for the big abseil. There was an addition mini-ab ring on the second ridge, this caused one of our party confusion, I assume it was just to protect the smooth ridge to to the next bolt, but he tried to abseil off into space on the LHS then had to hand-over-hand to get back up. Next abseil was fine but felt more than 20m .Minor errors in description of route down didnt' marr our day but in fog could be an issue. Highly recommended!
with Liz, Fenella, Steve Wright
Mark Eddy 4 Jan, 2015 Lead Very good day out. Initial section to El Realet one was very easy, wish we hadn't roped up for this bit. Beyond was dramatically different, with good exposure on both sides of the ridge. Loads of loose rock all the way, with bolts in the solid sections (of which there are few). Plenty of slings proved useful as spikes were in abundance (as were spiky bushes!). We started too late (circa 11am) so had to rush a bit, still finished in plenty time before night-fall. All members of the party will want to feel confident leading at least Severe before attempting this, so much traversing means the 2nd is every bit as exposed as the leader. Well worth doing and so much more fun than a clip-up route
with KateA
Very good day out. Initial section to El Realet one was very easy, wish we hadn't roped up for this bit. Beyond was dramatically different, with good exposure on both sides of the ridge. Loads of loose rock all the way, with bolts in the solid sections (of which there are few). Plenty of slings proved useful as spikes were in abundance (as were spiky bushes!). We started too late (circa 11am) so had to rush a bit, still finished in plenty time before night-fall. All members of the party will want to feel confident leading at least Severe before attempting this, so much traversing means the 2nd is every bit as exposed as the leader. Well worth doing and so much more fun than a clip-up route
with KateA
Hidden 4 Jan, 2015 2nd
Hidden 20 Dec, 2014 Solo
Matt Shepherd 26 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Tom.Priestley 15 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Really cool and well worth doing. About British HS in places and very exposed. Lots of exposed scrambling as well. Unnecessarily over bolted.
Really cool and well worth doing. About British HS in places and very exposed. Lots of exposed scrambling as well. Unnecessarily over bolted.
Hidden 8 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S
birbeck 11 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Richard Heard
with Richard Heard
Hidden 29 Mar, 2013 AltLd
Hotcake 28 Mar, 2013 Lead Amazing ridge route, fantastic mountain day. Lead 2 partners short roped, moving together and pitched. Hard bits protected with trad protection (occasional bolt) and trad stances.
Amazing ridge route, fantastic mountain day. Lead 2 partners short roped, moving together and pitched. Hard bits protected with trad protection (occasional bolt) and trad stances.
bluenose 28 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Mar, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead
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Voting
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Not Set