2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine counter line to The Fang.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb The Fang to the top of the pinnacle, then pull straight up the sustained and demanding crack above and climb it through a bulge. Take the continuation of the crack in the corner above to a belay in the corner below the fang.
2) 5c, 30m. Move up right to a small ledge on the arete. Climb into a hanging groove above, then make a hard traverse up and left onto the upper wall. Finish up the delicate slab above. Small/micro wires useful. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

George_Surf 01/Aug/17 Lead O/S

p1 is pretty sustained with a few hard moves and a tricky final move to reach the fang, safe but very tiring. p2 is nice and easy as far as the ledge on the arete, then i made a layaway off the undercut roof to go straight round the corner for the hidden jug, it wasnt that bad at all, the low crack is a red herring! slab above i climbed pretty much as for the fang, maybe slightly more to the right, virtually no good gear until youre at the top. awesome route

rachelpearce01 01/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
foostu4 31/Jul/17 AltLd

Fell of at crux on second pitch. Climbed clean next time, just got pumped and couldn't chalk up!

Hidden 11/Jun/17 2nd rpt
geoff b 11/Jun/17 Lead rpt

Done in one pitch. One of the few routes dry enough today & still very windy at the top. Non-stop entertainment!

Adam Booth 17/May/17 AltLd rpt
with Freddy
FreddieSmith 17/May/17 AltLd O/S
suds_01 02/Apr/17 Lead dnf
with Ian Davidson
tprebs 25/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
with Andy
scarmichael 09/Oct/16 AltLd

P1, straight from the van, felt very steep!

with MSD
Hidden 09/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
will9911 25/Sep/16 Lead
JendeHoxar 25/Sep/16 AltLd
Lakesben 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Mark
SAF 13/Aug/16 2nd
with Phil
Hidden 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
adie84 07/Aug/16 -
esther ?/Aug/16 Lead
efrance24234 21/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Jacob
Jacob Bloodworth 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch.

pie_eater_pete 14/Jul/16 -
Hidden 13/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
RebekahD 13/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Calum
Hidden 01/Jul/16 Lead rpt
wi11 22/Jun/16 AltLd O/S


with Emma T
williap 18/Jun/16 2nd

Initially mistaken as P1 of The Fang

Fatherof2 11/Jun/16 -

Led pitch 1 nearly clean got to good jam and took a rest on rope its steeper than it looks. Pitch 2 is out there wild few moves.

with Jeff
GPN 03/May/16 Lead O/S
with Trad Exchange
belay bunny turned bad 03/May/16 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/16 AltLd dog
jezb1 20/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

P2. Brilliant. Short and sharp difficulties on P1, then committing and techy climbing on the p2 crux before the spicy run out on the top slab.

JendeHoxar 03/Apr/16 AltLd dog
Hidden 03/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
pbb081079 18/Mar/16 2nd

Complete but not sure if exact date

wolf.leeb 17/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
with nic
mynyddresident 17/Mar/16 AltLd
with wolf
Hidden ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
joedean ??/2016 -

Two very different pitches! Crack has to be done efficiently! Then the second pitch was a bit polished and chalked up but still good fun.

anguskille 03/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 03/Nov/15 2nd rpt
with Angus Kille, Tim Neill
WB 18/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

another route i might have done in the past distant past

with Andy M
Dawn_K_B 10/Oct/15 2nd dnf

Well that went badly. Tried to get on the Fang but Tom led Extraction P1 instead, I rested on second, got to the stance and Tom was pumped and I wasn't keen. Abbed off and the next party retrieved our gear. Need to come back and actually climb the Fang next time!

with Tom Brown
craggyfingers 20/Sep/15 Lead
Scott Quinn 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S

p1 only linked into the fang

Tom.Priestley 12/Sep/15 2nd O/S

P1 only, found it more difficult that it looked. Pumpy.

mynyddresident 16/Aug/15 AltLd

Did p1 years ago. Lead p2 this time.

jacob shieldhouse hadley 30/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Dervey 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

P1 only, Liam led P2 of The Fang

with Ollie, Liam
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Brian H 04/Jul/15 2nd rpt
alice fuller 04/Jul/15 2nd dog

fell off jam on 1st pitch.. to amuse pete:)

Mark Warnett ?/Jul/15 AltLd

hard first pitch, committing second

BRoe 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S


MarkRoe 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led First. Two excellent pitches!!

with Ben Roe
Hannes B 24/May/15 AltLd O/S


with Tom
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd dog
Robb Bert 23/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 13/May/15 AltLd dog
Hidden 12/May/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
Derek Ryden 11/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Mike Pycroft
Hidden 04/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 04/Apr/15 -
Dan Vaj 24/Mar/15 2nd β
with James McHaffie
Rachel Slater 08/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Lead p1 which i'd seconded a few years ago and found nails! Glad my jamming has improved since then.. Second pitch was fun too.

tim newton 08/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Darron ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
alice fuller ??/2015 2nd dog

fell off first pitch.. to make pete feel good;)

pete johnson 24/Nov/14 -
Hidden 24/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
Lenny 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S

In 1 pitch.

with Iain
Hidden 15/Nov/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd
bede.west 26/Sep/14 Lead

linked into the second pitch and then traversed into strip tease so not the full tick. well worth it though to do a Stride In A Thunderstorm across the striptease gully to the tree belay.

bigdrew 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1. Both really good, and very different. Second pitch more involving?..

with Dan
Hidden 30/Aug/14 -
bencole 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

led P1

climberchristy 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Another excellent line at this fabulous crag. Ben P1, I led P2.

with bencole
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead dog
mikeyjbs 02/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with will woodhead
Misha 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S

A good route, did it in one pitch in a race to best the rain. It started dripping a bit on P1 which was fortunately sheltered by the overhang but then stopped bar a few drops now and then. The P1 crack is the crux and just about earns the grade, whereas P2 is pretty straightforward and the hidden jug is pretty obvious! If only E2s always felt so easy! Nice run out 5a slab to finish. Abbed off. A great end to a great weekend!

with Eszter
Ewano 12/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P2. Pete led P1 and had to dog quite a bit, pumpy! Interesting crux, had to place blind wires and hope for the best. Committing crux, can't see the good holds till you're already going for it. Felt like tough E2.

Hidden 12/Jun/14 AltLd
geoff b 29/May/14 AltLd

Great route, which I hadn't done for a while.

pete johnson 29/May/14 -
PaulTanton 24/May/14 Lead rpt

Quite easy really. Lovely top slab. Nice n run out

The Grist 24/May/14 2nd
Luxulyan 23/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
switch 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy P
Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
PaulTanton 23/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Joe, Chris Reid
Tom Livingstone 11/Jan/14 AltLd rpt


with Gwen Lancashire
coldwill ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Matthew Ferrier 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

P2. Apparently I forgot how to extend runners under the roof so had to untie one rope mid rockover onto the slab. Possibly my favorite pitch of the weekend.

amccann 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch.

robgixer 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S

only first pitch

smallerrich 08/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

led P2 - was getting dark!

Hidden 08/Oct/13 AltLd
stuart34 30/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 30/Sep/13 Lead O/S
ben360 28/Aug/13 Lead

pitch one then fang p2 rested once

Swotson 11/Aug/13 2nd dog

Andy led in one pitch. Didn't quite get the moves right first time on one move of the strenuous first pitch. Second pitch went well though. Varied and technical - a great climb.

with Andy Brown
Kevster 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Will T
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 AltLd rpt
Alice Thompson 21/May/13 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 21/May/13 AltLd O/S
with alice thompson
sgl0jd 23/Feb/13 2nd
JCAshman ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Just first pitch.

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Luke Brooks ??/2013 -
dswansonlow 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Awesome route as one pitch! I found the crack near the start quite tricky for a warm up

shed_hed 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S
wynaptomos 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S
mike lawrence? 23/Aug/12 AltLd

finished in dark again

with FatRob
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 19/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/12 2nd
Glyn 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Luke
Michael Allday 14/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
nickmattia 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

P1 Me (wimped out onto Fang) P2 Aidan (hero, as usual)

with aiden jones
Michael Allday ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 AltLd
Bruce Houston ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Dave Foster 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Exposed second pitch.

with Si 2
Ed Booth 30/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Cool route. Adam led both pitches. Nice to finally do it. A good route!

with Edwin Mitchell, Adam Booth
edmitchell 30/Mar/12 2nd O/S


Adam Booth 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
samrad 23/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with tom livingstone
Tom Livingstone 23/Jan/12 AltLd O/S


Hidden ??/2012 -
Ewan Russell 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

I did first pitch(easy) jamie did second pitch which was exciting!

Hidden 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
markalmack 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S

1 long pitch. v. nice.

with andy lole
david morse 05/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Tricky with a raging hangover...

with todd
Hidden 05/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
Olli-C 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch by accident instead of doing the first pitch of the fang

CRiddiford 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Pete Graham
Si dH 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

with Neil Furniss
J.Wells 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
JasTaplin ?/Jun/11 2nd
john lynch 28/May/11 2nd O/S

finished up the fang

with simon smith
Owain Llewelyn 27/May/11 AltLd
with Gareth E
Hidden 20/May/11 AltLd
laurelfan 09/May/11 2nd
with Sophie
soph ?/May/11 Lead

In 1 pitch on international meet in between showers

soph ?/May/11 Lead

In 1 pitch on international meet in between showers

Tim Sparrow 28/Apr/11 Lead

In one pitch. Varied and brilliant. Failed attempt on p1 the previous evening so had to retrieve gear!

with Pete Robinson
Hidden 10/Apr/11 -
Duncan Campbell 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S

P2. From P1 of The Fang. Awesome little pitch, tricky crux but its actually fairly easy to read, don't be put off by the intimidating look of it.

with Mikey G
Katex 19/Mar/11 2nd
with Liam
kdalzell 19/Mar/11 2nd
with Kate Lawrence, Liam Fleming
Liam FLeming 19/Mar/11 Lead
with karen dalzell
benchwarmer 01/Mar/11 2nd dog
barni 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S

first pitch only

with Ewan
Hidden 23/Jan/11 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
al99 02/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

led 1st.

with Luke Thomas
Justin T 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 only, escaped off up Fang as rain came in

with Cherry
Hidden 29/Jul/10 -
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
tigertim 02/Jun/10 AltLd RP
with Tony Payne
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
JulesV 02/May/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
mr mills 27/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Gareth
Duncan Campbell 08/Mar/10 Lead dnf

got a rope thrown on me as i pulled through the steepness! spooked me a bit then got boxed figuring out the crux - 1 move away! will be back - this marks a definate improvement in my climbing!

with Bubbles
conorjclarke 06/Mar/10 2nd dog

a little rain, some falling, lots of cursing

gnc760 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Pretty tough cookie. Left the ground without really deciding what we wanted to do, ended up following this line to the top.

with Conor Clarke
Alex Mason 23/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Led first pitch. Best E2 if done at tremadog a pair of wicked pitches.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 23/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

a sick brace of pitches. did 2nd pitch, baffling at first!

nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
mr mills ??/2010 -
with Elfyn (chang)
barni 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Top only

with Ewan
benchwarmer 20/Sep/09 2nd dog
Liam FLeming 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with karen dalzell
Hidden 14/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
simonp ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with sophie whyte
Richard Horn 23/May/09 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 04/May/09 AltLd
with Kev
mike278 03/May/09 Lead dnf

Lots of confusion about which route i was on, ended up on this.

with John
Hidden 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/09 -
pete johnson 17/Apr/09 -
Castleclimber 12/Apr/09 Lead dnf

After having backed off the first pitch years ago, I nailed it relatively easily. Despite this, I backed off the easier but more exposed top pitch.. dammit

with Vince McNally
Ram MkiV 17/Mar/09 Lead O/S

as one big and excellent pitch.

with Lee
Brown 01/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with John
leepip ?/Mar/09 2nd
with steve ramsden
Hidden 31/Jan/09 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
AdrianP ??/2009 AltLd O/S

Run out top slab, sustained severe..

with Olli
Hidden 24/Aug/08 2nd
C@rwyn 22/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Seconded top pitch

with Heather and Caff
HeatherF 21/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Finished off the fang onto the top pitch of this route-quite scary moves round that overhang!

with Caff
kieranrex 11/May/08 AltLd

both pitches are awesome,and completely different!

centurion05 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/07 2nd
Mark Stevenson 16/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Iain K
Morgan Woods 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S

nice jamming on the first pitch then a few delicate moves on the second.

with Wilbur
Hidden 03/Mar/07 2nd O/S
Nicos 17/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
frost ?/Jun/06 AltLd
with N Griffiths
pete johnson 30/Apr/06 Lead
with Rob
IOAN D 19/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with gareth
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 29/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/05 2nd
Hidden 19/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
chrisbevins ??/2005 2nd O/S
pete johnson 03/May/04 -
with Kevin Sales
nicholas Barrowclough 07/Mar/04 Lead
nicholas Barrowclough 07/Mar/04 Lead
nige 20/Feb/04 Lead
with dave kells
cem 24/May/03 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with Neil Northrop
jgordon75 03/Oct/02 2nd
with Tim Jepson
rapidrich 01/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Jason
Shaw Brown ??/2002 2nd
with David Menadue
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun/99 AltLd
pete johnson 08/May/99 -
with Hughie
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd O/S
liabilityliz 26/Jul/97 2nd
with Nick Dixon
michael burrows 28/Mar/97 AltLd rpt
with pete bailey
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1997 -
Andy Say 27/Jul/96 Lead
crossleysm ?/Apr/96 -
Neil R 16/Sep/95 AltLd

Led 1st pitch

with Ian
Budge ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Richard Teed
michael burrows 19/Mar/95 AltLd rpt

led 1st pitch

with phil jones
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
rob.grafton ??/1995 Lead
with Ben, Bruce
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 AltLd
jfletcher 21/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with Phil Dowthwaite
Hidden ??/1994 2nd
Chris Ellis 28/Jul/93 2nd
with Dan Morgan
shoulders 23/Jul/93 Lead
Hidden 20/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Mick King 15/May/93 Lead
with Simon Walsh
3 Names ??/1993 AltLd O/S
ste_d 01/Sep/92 AltLd O/S
with mik
Hidden 13/Jun/91 Lead
mattnuttall 03/Apr/91 AltLd O/S

led p2

with Alan Holden
steve taylor ?/Mar/90 Lead
with mike robertson
Bob ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with Unsure
Seymore Butt ??/1990 Lead
with Spuz
Hidden 26/Nov/89 Lead
mark-abz 19/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with Andy W
michael burrows 30/Jul/89 AltLd O/S

and john roberts

with pete roberts
Chris Wright 31/May/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/88 2nd
Dave Musgrove 01/May/88 AltLd
with Pete Finklaire, David
Hidden 30/Apr/88 AltLd
Hidden 30/Apr/88 AltLd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 03/Apr/88 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
Hidden 03/Apr/88 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Steve Crowe 26/Sep/87 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Aug/87 Lead rpt
Bruce Kerr 21/Jul/87 Lead
with Johnny May
Mike Owen 25/Jan/87 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1987 AltLd O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1987 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
keefe 15/Nov/86 -
neilh 20/Jul/86 AltLd
with Neil Smith
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17/Sep/85 AltLd

Separate days

with Brian Harley
Hidden 17/Aug/85 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/85 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez 16/Jun/85 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/85 AltLd
Hidden 16/May/85 2nd
Melok ??/1985 AltLd
mitch1960 ??/1985 Lead
with Alan Dance
andy gittins ??/1985 -
sadams 05/May/84 Lead

Climbed the first pitch opf extraction in mistake for the Fang finished up the fang

with Chris Thwaites
keefe 15/Apr/84 -
Dave Turnbull 11/Mar/84 Lead
with Jim Thomas
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
TonyF 21/Aug/83 AltLd O/S
with Tony Cox
Mark Kemball 02/Jul/83 AltLd
with Dave Ball
uphillnow ??/1983 Lead

About 1983, may have seconded it before?

Hidden 14/Jul/82 AltLd
Neil McA 15/Feb/82 Lead dog
with Steve Hartland
stp ??/1982 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Hammy 27/Jun/81 AltLd
with Nick Arding
Mike Owen 16/May/81 Lead rpt
with Elaine Watson
duncan ?/Sep/80 Lead
Hidden 23/Feb/80 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1980 Lead rpt
with Mike Wright
daviesxxx ??/1980 -
Ian Jones ??/1978 2nd O/S

Very pleased with this.

with Dave Greenald
Steve Bell ??/1978 -
Mike Owen 18/Jun/77 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
Steve Lewis 19/Sep/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
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High E3
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High E2
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
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High 6a
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Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
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