Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.



Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.


Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The steep gully is better than it appears, and stays dry in light rain. Start just to the right of The Fang below the deep corner.
1) 5a, 35m. Climb the burly chimney and pull around the overhang on its right. Continue over more bulges to a tree belay on the right. Most people abseil off at this point, as there is loose rock on the next pitch.
2) 4b, 12m. The short arete leads past some loose rock to another tree belay just below the top. Either scramble up the gully or abseil off this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A climb not to be underestimated. The first pitch is a little cheeky in places and although the pro is good its not always where you want it. Second pitch is very short and easy. Overall an interesting and rewarding clmb!


North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List , BSR multipitch routes , N Wales VS longlist


User Date Notes
Sardien 6 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Very likely my wedding ring slipped out of my pocket here today :( If anyone finds a plain titanium band at the bottom of the route or thereabouts please get in touch!
Show beta
βeta: Very likely my wedding ring slipped out of my pocket here today :( If anyone finds a plain titanium band at the bottom of the route or thereabouts please get in touch!
emcawte 20 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1 only
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 1 only
09packhamg 15 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: very loose rock after belay tree
Show beta
βeta: very loose rock after belay tree

Logged Ascents

1534 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 165 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 199
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 184
Votes cast 163
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mur y Niwl

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)

Loading Notifications...