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50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The steep gully is better than it appears, and stays dry in light rain. Start just to the right of The Fang below the deep corner.
1) 5a, 35m. Climb the chimney and pull around the overhang on its right. Continue over more bulges to a tree belay on the right. Most people abseil off at this point.
2) 4b, 12m. The short arete leads to another tree belay just below the top. Either scramble up the gully or abseil off this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A climb not to be underestimated. The first pitch is a little cheeky in places and although the pro is good its not always where you want it. Second pitch is very short and easy. Overall an interesting and rewarding clmb!

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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User Date Notes
09packhamg 15 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: very loose rock after belay tree
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: very loose rock after belay tree

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Votes cast 173
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Votes cast 161
Votes cast 145
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
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Route of Interest

Kirkus's Route

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig Lloer)