54m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The most popular way of finishing Heart of Darkness is to climb direct from the arete belay at the end of pitch 1 of Heart of Darkness to gain the crack of New Morning. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin, J.Kingston 1971

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Extreme 2018, Adventure ticklist 2018, Pembroke Goalz, 2019 all-rounder Psyche list, 3 star Pembroke e1., Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

UserDateNotes
a_radiohead_fan 22 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: lovely climbing. airy and exposed but very easy traverse with a rather strenny crack which in my book e1 as it pretty sustained. cc guide is spot on once again.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: lovely climbing. airy and exposed but very easy traverse with a rather strenny crack which in my book e1 as it pretty sustained. cc guide is spot on once again.
Tony Holdsworth 17 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: An utterly superb trip this combination.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An utterly superb trip this combination.
John2 13 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 3 stars are not enough for this route. The New Morning crack is possibly sustained enough to be worth E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3 stars are not enough for this route. The New Morning crack is possibly sustained enough to be worth E1.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Martin Bagshaw 29 Oct AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Sep AltLd O/S
perrys 8 Sep Lead O/S
with George Evans
with George Evans
FH 6 Sep 2nd
with SP
with SP
bobpilgrem 6 Sep AltLd Lead traverse pitch. Top pitch harder than expected.
Lead traverse pitch. Top pitch harder than expected.
tompilgrem 6 Sep AltLd O/S Lead 2nd pitch (new morning) - class route! Hard work placing the gear on new morning
Lead 2nd pitch (new morning) - class route! Hard work placing the gear on new morning
Hidden 6 Sep Lead
Matt Magecha 5 Sep 2nd Best traverse ive done! I queefed off the new morning crack after a couple of attempts, felt hard going and a bit scary. Al led it like a champ and i still found it hard on second... gotta go back to crack school! one to come back to!
Best traverse ive done! I queefed off the new morning crack after a couple of attempts, felt hard going and a bit scary. Al led it like a champ and i still found it hard on second... gotta go back to crack school! one to come back to!
ClimbingAlex 5 Sep Lead O/S
Freshprintce 4 Sep AltLd
Kye Gregory 2 Sep 2nd O/S
Hidden 2 Sep AltLd O/S
Lewproff 2 Sep AltLd O/S One of the best routes I've ever done!
One of the best routes I've ever done!
alasdair.scott 2 Sep AltLd O/S Led P1 - Technically quite easy but also terrifying! Followed Peter up the E1 pitch as the line looked better than carrying on with the traverse
Led P1 - Technically quite easy but also terrifying! Followed Peter up the E1 pitch as the line looked better than carrying on with the traverse
markalmack 31 Aug 2nd O/S
with Trouble Bird
with Trouble Bird
Katekeltie 31 Aug Lead O/S
Ian MK 29 Aug Lead O/S
fechtn 25 Aug AltLd O/S Beautiful route. I led the traverse pitch, amazing position, never too hard, used plenty of large cams. Managed to get some rests using jams. Got some rope drag because I didnt extend a runner in the corner of the cave. Dave lead the New Morning finish which was glorious, a mix of jams and laybacking, tons of gear. Overall great route
with David (PCC)
Beautiful route. I led the traverse pitch, amazing position, never too hard, used plenty of large cams. Managed to get some rests using jams. Got some rope drag because I didnt extend a runner in the corner of the cave. Dave lead the New Morning finish which was glorious, a mix of jams and laybacking, tons of gear. Overall great route
with David (PCC)
planetmarshall 25 Aug 2nd
Sut 25 Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Aug Lead O/S
Norman_P_W 23 Aug AltLd
with Fallow, Max S
with Fallow, Max S
Max Streeton 23 Aug AltLd dog Seconded Darkness, lead New Morning with rests
with John Fallowfield, Norman wright
Seconded Darkness, lead New Morning with rests
with John Fallowfield, Norman wright
Fallow 23 Aug 2nd W/max and norm
W/max and norm
philhilo 23 Aug AltLd O/S
with Phil simister
with Phil simister
JagoNeath 25 Jul Lead
with 96izzi
with 96izzi
96izzi 25 Jul 2nd
brian watson 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S P1
with Ed Babs
P1
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S P2
P2
therat 1 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S P2
P2
Tombennett85 ?Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Louis hudson
with Louis hudson
roym 23 Aug, 2018 AltLd First pitch was fantastic, loved the exposure.
First pitch was fantastic, loved the exposure.
Stuart Walker 23 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Had top pitch, quite hard.
Had top pitch, quite hard.
Sam Brown 13 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Nat williams
with Nat williams
Sam Brown 13 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Nat williams
with Nat williams
Hidden 13 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Tom Redwood 8 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Lead both pitches. Fantastic route, HoD felt quite cruisy so long as various types of jams were used to give different muscles a rest and the core kept weight on the feet (training & technique paying off!!), amazing traversing so far with water beneath you. Great view of the coast & route from the belay. Blasted up the NM crack, gives just enough, not one to faff with the reasonable but often not 100% perfect gear on (luckily I didn't)! What more could you want from a route?
Lead both pitches. Fantastic route, HoD felt quite cruisy so long as various types of jams were used to give different muscles a rest and the core kept weight on the feet (training & technique paying off!!), amazing traversing so far with water beneath you. Great view of the coast & route from the belay. Blasted up the NM crack, gives just enough, not one to faff with the reasonable but often not 100% perfect gear on (luckily I didn't)! What more could you want from a route?
DavidMcK 7 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S One of those routes where you are just smiling the whole way along, totally outrageous!
One of those routes where you are just smiling the whole way along, totally outrageous!
John McKenna 7 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
andy_pemberton 5 Aug, 2018 Lead Compiled from two attempts!
with Steve Gibson
Compiled from two attempts!
with Steve Gibson
Hidden ?Aug, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 22 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Ian1001 ??, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
jesse.stuck ??, 2018 AltLd β
Simon Allcock 26 Oct, 2017 2nd dog Very wet. Gripping first pitch, extraordinary position. Got spat off the steep wet crack above
with Wilki
Very wet. Gripping first pitch, extraordinary position. Got spat off the steep wet crack above
with Wilki
Hugh Simons 11 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Last route of the day, incredible light. What a fucking route though. That Heart of Darkness traverse is something else. I led the E1 top crack which was excellent as well. One of my all time favourite routes, so so good.
Last route of the day, incredible light. What a fucking route though. That Heart of Darkness traverse is something else. I led the E1 top crack which was excellent as well. One of my all time favourite routes, so so good.
Euan Todd 11 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Absolutely breathtaking. Easily one of my favourite routes ever. Abbed in to the ledge (again, with tide incoming, sun setting and showers - sensing a theme at Pembroke here). Wasn't sure if it was gonna be climbable due to the showers, time restrictions and wave-washed rock at the start. The feeling of reaching the corner, and seeing that traverse, perma-dry under the roof, golden in the sunset was pretty special. Did the first pitch, absolutely cheesing the whole way. Ran out of extenders as well, had to make do with prussiks on occasion. p1 HVS 4c ****. Finally made a belay and got Hugh climbing just before the tide/waves swamped his ledge - he led the top pitch easily, and we topped out to the last of the sunset. p2 E1 5b ***. TLDR: Spectacular route, do it!
Absolutely breathtaking. Easily one of my favourite routes ever. Abbed in to the ledge (again, with tide incoming, sun setting and showers - sensing a theme at Pembroke here). Wasn't sure if it was gonna be climbable due to the showers, time restrictions and wave-washed rock at the start. The feeling of reaching the corner, and seeing that traverse, perma-dry under the roof, golden in the sunset was pretty special. Did the first pitch, absolutely cheesing the whole way. Ran out of extenders as well, had to make do with prussiks on occasion. p1 HVS 4c ****. Finally made a belay and got Hugh climbing just before the tide/waves swamped his ledge - he led the top pitch easily, and we topped out to the last of the sunset. p2 E1 5b ***. TLDR: Spectacular route, do it!
duncana 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd Led traversé P1. Really good, holds a bit greasy and I was a bit gripped, but amazing line. New Morning top crack is steep!
with Pippa Archer
Led traversé P1. Really good, holds a bit greasy and I was a bit gripped, but amazing line. New Morning top crack is steep!
with Pippa Archer
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
justdoit 15 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S really good fun, lead the traverse pitch under the roof.
really good fun, lead the traverse pitch under the roof.
Guy Arnold 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Dave Adler
with Dave Adler
EllieWoods 12 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Perfect conditions for an amazing route. Sun baked afternoon. Took double set of big cams and used them all. Found the New Morning pitch sustained and had to work hard to get the gear in and stay on the rock. Well protected tho. Fabulous
Perfect conditions for an amazing route. Sun baked afternoon. Took double set of big cams and used them all. Found the New Morning pitch sustained and had to work hard to get the gear in and stay on the rock. Well protected tho. Fabulous
Hidden 9 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 May, 2017 AltLd
aiyer 17 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead New Morning - must learn to crack climb.... Got it clean by the skin of my teeth!
Lead New Morning - must learn to crack climb.... Got it clean by the skin of my teeth!
James Oswald 1 Apr, 2017 AltLd Lead new morning pitch. Heart of darkness traverse was good, quite wet though and felt serious. The main crack of new morning was really wet though and felt hard. Good adventure
with Mr. K
Lead new morning pitch. Heart of darkness traverse was good, quite wet though and felt serious. The main crack of new morning was really wet though and felt hard. Good adventure
with Mr. K
Mr. K 1 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead pitch one. Climbed at high tide with a big swell, felt really serious, all the holds were wet and sandy. Second pitch was really wet so felt really hard on the day. An amazing adventure.
Lead pitch one. Climbed at high tide with a big swell, felt really serious, all the holds were wet and sandy. Second pitch was really wet so felt really hard on the day. An amazing adventure.
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
bruce ??, 2017 -
msoldn ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Nick
with Nick
Hidden ??, 2017 -
julesmckim 23 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Climbed again after 32 years! What a route
with Alex Renshaw
Climbed again after 32 years! What a route
with Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 23 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Tom.Priestley 22 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Led Heart of Darkness
Led Heart of Darkness
George_Surf 19 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Fairly steep climbing but good gear, excellent finish to HOD
Fairly steep climbing but good gear, excellent finish to HOD
rachelpearce01 19 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
Pippa 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Rob
with Rob
Lawcallum 4 Sep, 2016 -
mattnuttall 31 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Quality.... Easy but superb P1 (could and have done as a DWS)/then super positive jams on steep E1 crack of New Morning. Very enjoyable indeed.
Quality.... Easy but superb P1 (could and have done as a DWS)/then super positive jams on steep E1 crack of New Morning. Very enjoyable indeed.
Andrew Wilson 31 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
FredTB 30 Aug, 2016 2nd
Hidden 30 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 30 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 2nd
rich_hw 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
Mike W 27 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Pete Wimbush 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with Richard Williams
with Richard Williams
Chriswallis2 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Mike W
with Mike W
Vilius A. 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead 1st pitch
with Hugh Merritt
Lead 1st pitch
with Hugh Merritt
khalidq 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd dog I tried to lead the New Morning pitch but after a long battle getting within reach of the final finger ledge, I had to concede.
with Peter Harris
I tried to lead the New Morning pitch but after a long battle getting within reach of the final finger ledge, I had to concede.
with Peter Harris
Stanners 11 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S led P2. Been a long time coming to climb at Stackpole. Didn't really enjoy the first pitch seconding, but once finally left the awkward belay and sorted out my foreign rack I really got into it and enjoyed the relatively straightforward E1 crack (except a small section at 2/3 height) Good finish to the trip with Giles. 4 hours drive off to Lukes grad party!
with Giles
led P2. Been a long time coming to climb at Stackpole. Didn't really enjoy the first pitch seconding, but once finally left the awkward belay and sorted out my foreign rack I really got into it and enjoyed the relatively straightforward E1 crack (except a small section at 2/3 height) Good finish to the trip with Giles. 4 hours drive off to Lukes grad party!
with Giles
Chris Murray 5 Aug, 2016 AltLd Led P1. What a route!
with DMC
Led P1. What a route!
with DMC
DMC 5 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Led the New Morning pitch.
Led the New Morning pitch.
Abi Chard 5 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Droyd 30 May, 2016 AltLd O/S P2, amazing
with Ian1987
P2, amazing
with Ian1987
DubyaJamesDubya 24 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Brilliant route in perfect conditions
with Ian Smith
Brilliant route in perfect conditions
with Ian Smith
Adam24B 14 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Kris2fa
with Kris2fa
Kris2fa 14 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1. What an amazing pitch! Possibly a little harder for the tall (or maybe I'm just being a wimp) due to having to remain in a crouched position to fit between the top and bottom breaks
with Adam24B
Led pitch 1. What an amazing pitch! Possibly a little harder for the tall (or maybe I'm just being a wimp) due to having to remain in a crouched position to fit between the top and bottom breaks
with Adam24B
Hidden ??, 2016 -
FelixPeterken 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Did the HVS pitch, bring big gear!
with AndrewP
Did the HVS pitch, bring big gear!
with AndrewP
AndrewP 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Mihkel 20 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S I led the traverse (fantastic, very 'Exposure Explosion'), Nik led New Morning finish.
I led the traverse (fantastic, very 'Exposure Explosion'), Nik led New Morning finish.
theotherpetehill 1 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
chrisallan 1 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
lost.arrow 29 Aug, 2015 Lead Reiterate a previous comment. Excellent, atmospheric route. Soft E1, with the first (committing traverse) pitch feeling much more serious than the second (strenuous crack) pitch.
with Stu Sherwood
Reiterate a previous comment. Excellent, atmospheric route. Soft E1, with the first (committing traverse) pitch feeling much more serious than the second (strenuous crack) pitch.
with Stu Sherwood
Hidden 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 18 Aug, 2015 2nd rpt Really enjoyed following the traverse this time. Superb fun. Hardest part of the top pitch is getting established in the crack.
with Alan Smith, Derek Rudeforth
Really enjoyed following the traverse this time. Superb fun. Hardest part of the top pitch is getting established in the crack.
with Alan Smith, Derek Rudeforth
deklan ?Aug, 2015 AltLd
with louis
with louis
soph 17 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Adam Brown
with Adam Brown
james1978 15 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Outstanding crack on the headwall in a sensational position.
with pam
Outstanding crack on the headwall in a sensational position.
with pam
alastairbegley 23 May, 2015 AltLd RP Fell off the second pitch three years ago. Lead p2 cleanly this time, lovely route!
with Slick
Fell off the second pitch three years ago. Lead p2 cleanly this time, lovely route!
with Slick
Slick 23 May, 2015 AltLd
Thunderthighsontheloose 5 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 5 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
andy dunn ??, 2015 AltLd O/S
with J
with J
gjd 27 Sep, 2014 AltLd rpt
with gurumed
with gurumed
gurumed 27 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead second pitch.
with gjd
Lead second pitch.
with gjd
manxclare 23 Sep, 2014 2nd
John sealey 23 Sep, 2014 Lead
Flavio 14 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Jamie E
with Jamie E
Jamie E 14 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead 1st pitch, retreated after seeing the traverse around the arête, rested on the ledge, manned up and did it. Very intimidating (the horror, the horror) but exhilarating route!
with Flavio
Lead 1st pitch, retreated after seeing the traverse around the arête, rested on the ledge, manned up and did it. Very intimidating (the horror, the horror) but exhilarating route!
with Flavio
Hidden 5 Sep, 2014 AltLd dog
poeter210 5 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Adrian did all the hard work on New Morning, which made Heart of Darkness feel like a path, definitely E1 and brilliant!
with druss
Adrian did all the hard work on New Morning, which made Heart of Darkness feel like a path, definitely E1 and brilliant!
with druss
leon 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S i lead the traverse on heart of darkness. easy climbing but very intimidating moving around the arete to see 30m of traverse across the cave. holds greasy even in the afternoon. we finished about 2 mins before the heavy rain arrive. a great day out.
i lead the traverse on heart of darkness. easy climbing but very intimidating moving around the arete to see 30m of traverse across the cave. holds greasy even in the afternoon. we finished about 2 mins before the heavy rain arrive. a great day out.
fabricio 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Second on the traverse, which was very greasy, lead the crack of New Morning.
with leon
Second on the traverse, which was very greasy, lead the crack of New Morning.
with leon
Steven Carter 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Justin T 19 May, 2014 AltLd P2
P2
Justin T 9 May, 2014 AltLd O/S P1. Exciting getting to the route in a fair swell, timed swing across on ab rope to avoid a soaking. A truly, truly superb line and the most fun I've had climbing for a while!
P1. Exciting getting to the route in a fair swell, timed swing across on ab rope to avoid a soaking. A truly, truly superb line and the most fun I've had climbing for a while!
Rachel Slater 9 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead the New Morning bit. Fun route.
Lead the New Morning bit. Fun route.
Sarah Black 4 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
DanielGyi 2 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
with jfane
with jfane
Olli-C 2 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2. Awesome route!
Lead pitch 2. Awesome route!
Hidden 19 Apr, 2014 Lead β
steve.warrington 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead 2nd pitch
Lead 2nd pitch
SJS 13 Apr, 2014 2nd
Nick Russell 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Excellent, atmospheric route. Soft E1, with the first (committing traverse) pitch feeling much more serious than the second (strenuous crack) pitch.
with SJS
Excellent, atmospheric route. Soft E1, with the first (committing traverse) pitch feeling much more serious than the second (strenuous crack) pitch.
with SJS
jfane ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Sardien 5 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Fantastic route. Led the heart of darknes pitch and loved every bit of it, thinking it couldn't get any better, until the splendid jamming-fest on New Morning, soooo much fun!
with nawface
Fantastic route. Led the heart of darknes pitch and loved every bit of it, thinking it couldn't get any better, until the splendid jamming-fest on New Morning, soooo much fun!
with nawface
Hidden 27 Sep, 2013 Lead
Pete_Frost 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1: atmospheric and intimidating for the first route of the day. Very damp and greasy before the sun gets near it, but has huge holds and eats as many medium/large cams as you can feed it. P2 is steep and technical, swapping finger-locks, jams, lay-backs, and face holds. Looking forward to leading it in future.
Led P1: atmospheric and intimidating for the first route of the day. Very damp and greasy before the sun gets near it, but has huge holds and eats as many medium/large cams as you can feed it. P2 is steep and technical, swapping finger-locks, jams, lay-backs, and face holds. Looking forward to leading it in future.
Hidden 25 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Harri777 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd I led the Heart of Darkness pitch, Megan led New Morning.
with Megan Beaumont
I led the Heart of Darkness pitch, Megan led New Morning.
with Megan Beaumont
Shaw Brown 24 Aug, 2013 Lead
with loz01
with loz01
Jim Slater 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led Heart of Darkness pitch.
with Trevor Wilson
Led Heart of Darkness pitch.
with Trevor Wilson
Dizz 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with EJ
with EJ
PTatts 30 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch.
Led 1st pitch.
The Grist 22 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
asmith37 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Mike Grant
with Mike Grant
Monkey_Alan 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1. Easy climbing in amazing location!
with DAJ Johnson
Led P1. Easy climbing in amazing location!
with DAJ Johnson
pipof747 26 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Elsier 19 Jun, 2013 2nd Superb route, very atmospheric!
with AdrianC
Superb route, very atmospheric!
with AdrianC
Hidden 31 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 30 May, 2013 AltLd O/S New morning pitch. Previously done heart of darkness in its entirety.
with D.Campbell
New morning pitch. Previously done heart of darkness in its entirety.
with D.Campbell
Duncan Campbell 30 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Soft E1 IMO, I led the HVS pitch 1.
with Ollie B
Soft E1 IMO, I led the HVS pitch 1.
with Ollie B
will6459 20 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
joem 20 Oct, 2012 2nd O/S greased off the heart of darkness pitch took a big swing.
greased off the heart of darkness pitch took a big swing.
Dangerous Dave 18 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S Great route.
with dave o
Great route.
with dave o
dave o 18 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
nickstephens 18 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
with gg4419
with gg4419
gg4419 18 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 2 Sep, 2012 AltLd
Cardi 28 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led New Morning. Outrageous exposure on Heart of Darkness with a fairly rough sea. P2 pretty strenuous and hard for 5b.
Led New Morning. Outrageous exposure on Heart of Darkness with a fairly rough sea. P2 pretty strenuous and hard for 5b.
alastairbegley 9 Aug, 2012 Lead Fell on final few moves up the crack
Fell on final few moves up the crack
mattkemp70 ?Aug, 2012 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
Adam Booth 28 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
mick1jones 15 Jul, 2012 2nd dog Fine on heart although worth way more than 4c! On new morning tried to lay back instead of jam and had to rest. Jamming was the way and completed route with no problems
with Rich Rogers
Fine on heart although worth way more than 4c! On new morning tried to lay back instead of jam and had to rest. Jamming was the way and completed route with no problems
with Rich Rogers
chris wyatt 31 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S classic. Struggled up new morning after a long day
classic. Struggled up new morning after a long day
Ed morris ??, 2012 AltLd O/S
with mark dwyer
with mark dwyer
Ceridwen 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S Me P2
with Andy Mosienko
Me P2
with Andy Mosienko
Colin Scotchford 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Oct, 2011 Lead
with Sim Spencer, Alastair MacColl
with Sim Spencer, Alastair MacColl
Alex Winter 8 Sep, 2011 AltLd dog Abbed onto wrong ledge and had to make a soggy traverse over to the normal belay. Jake led the first pitch. Arsed about for too long on the second pitch and had to rest, fine if you keep moving.
with jiles
Abbed onto wrong ledge and had to make a soggy traverse over to the normal belay. Jake led the first pitch. Arsed about for too long on the second pitch and had to rest, fine if you keep moving.
with jiles
jiles 8 Sep, 2011 AltLd
Mr Sparkle 29 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Liam Byrne
with Liam Byrne
will9911 28 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Pete Nugent
with Pete Nugent
Pete Nugent 28 Aug, 2011 AltLd rpt Led p.1 Heart of Darkness, moved left directly from the arete, rather than move up the arete a few feet and then start the traverse. Harder this way! Will led p.2. Gets E1. 5b in the 2011 CC Guide
with Will Taylor (LC&CC)
Led p.1 Heart of Darkness, moved left directly from the arete, rather than move up the arete a few feet and then start the traverse. Harder this way! Will led p.2. Gets E1. 5b in the 2011 CC Guide
with Will Taylor (LC&CC)
Sebastien Gastaud 27 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Led the Second Pitch (New morning), Patrick led the first (Heart of Darkness)
Led the Second Pitch (New morning), Patrick led the first (Heart of Darkness)
Hidden 13 Aug, 2011 AltLd
tim newton 1 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Exodus
with Exodus
Jus 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
adie84 ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Sep, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 1 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Aug, 2010 2nd
Ketu 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S led 2nd pitch
with Ketu
led 2nd pitch
with Ketu
Katya 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with ChrisC
with ChrisC
Different Steve 28 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P2. 2 great, and very different, pitches.
with Guy Reid
Led P2. 2 great, and very different, pitches.
with Guy Reid
Dave Foster 18 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead P2. Incredible pumpy, juggy, sideways stuff followed by incredible pumpy, jammy, laybacky stuff. Indecently exposed.
with Andy
Lead P2. Incredible pumpy, juggy, sideways stuff followed by incredible pumpy, jammy, laybacky stuff. Indecently exposed.
with Andy
joese7en 15 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S class, sustained HVS 5a
class, sustained HVS 5a
Hidden 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd
d_meacher 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with dave657
with dave657
Dave Rumney ?Aug, 2010 -
Hidden ?Mar, 2010 -
alek 27 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Carl Reilly
with Carl Reilly
Hidden 20 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
spacey 4 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Paul Evans 4 Sep, 2009 AltLd
with spacey
with spacey
mynyddresident ??, 2009 AltLd Traverse pitch.
Traverse pitch.
irish paul 12 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with Tim W
with Tim W
Tim W 12 Oct, 2008 AltLd O/S Lead 1st pitch
Lead 1st pitch
Chris the Tall 29 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S Led the airy traverse pitch (4c), more than happy to let John have the final crack (hard 5b). Fortunately most of his gear fell out so I could save my energy for the climbing !
Led the airy traverse pitch (4c), more than happy to let John have the final crack (hard 5b). Fortunately most of his gear fell out so I could save my energy for the climbing !
gjd 27 Sep, 2008 2nd
with Ronnie
with Ronnie
Paul Bowen 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S 2nd pitch, couple of big hexes would have been good.
with bec
2nd pitch, couple of big hexes would have been good.
with bec
Hidden 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd
Mark Davies PK 29 Aug, 2008 Lead dnf Breaks too wet and slimey - retreated from half way along traverse pitch
with Doug
Breaks too wet and slimey - retreated from half way along traverse pitch
with Doug
Hidden 17 Sep, 2007 2nd
Hidden 28 Aug, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 18 Aug, 2007 2nd
Hidden 6 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
pete johnson ?Aug, 2007 -
with Rob
with Rob
Hidden 20 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
Wil Treasure 12 Aug, 2006 AltLd Led New Morning finish, one rest on gear - in a panic that I wouldn't have big enough gear for the crack on P2 (was being a wuss) climbing is straightforward, and great fun.
with JenW
Led New Morning finish, one rest on gear - in a panic that I wouldn't have big enough gear for the crack on P2 (was being a wuss) climbing is straightforward, and great fun.
with JenW
a_radiohead_fan ?Aug, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
cem 27 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S Led both pitches
with James Gill
Led both pitches
with James Gill
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 16 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
with Rebecca
with Rebecca
Hidden 2 Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
Neil Ireson ?Aug, 2005 Lead
with John
with John
Hidden 26 Oct, 2004 AltLd
belay bunny turned bad ??, 2004 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
Pete Nugent ?Aug, 2001 AltLd led New Morning Finish, now given E1, 5b in 2011 CC guide
with Simon Harry
led New Morning Finish, now given E1, 5b in 2011 CC guide
with Simon Harry
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
Tim M ??, 2000 -
Hidden 13 Aug, 1999 AltLd
dickypips ?Aug, 1999 AltLd O/S john led first pitch
with john richards
john led first pitch
with john richards
Hidden ??, 1998 -
Si Witcher ??, 1997 -
craig h 14 Sep, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
with Janet Hannah
Hidden 15 Jun, 1996 AltLd
Steve Clegg 9 Oct, 1995 Lead
with Mrs C
with Mrs C
mikej 17 Aug, 1995 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
with Nick Salmon
Hidden ??, 1995 AltLd
Budge ?Sep, 1992 AltLd
with Richard Teed
with Richard Teed
Andy Edgar ??, 1992 Lead
with Hugh Woodland
with Hugh Woodland
nuts and bolts ?Aug, 1991 AltLd O/S
steve taylor ?Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
with Dave Gilkes
with Dave Gilkes
Jelly Mould Surfer 27 Aug, 1989 AltLd O/S A/L with Al. I lead pitch 1
A/L with Al. I lead pitch 1
Hidden ??, 1988 AltLd O/S
Neil McA 30 Aug, 1987 Solo rpt The New morning crack is quite dramatic when you are out there on your own. Brilliant route!
The New morning crack is quite dramatic when you are out there on your own. Brilliant route!
Dave Garnett 15 Aug, 1987 Lead O/S
with Jane Garnett
with Jane Garnett
Nigel Coe ?Aug, 1987 AltLd
Neil McA 17 Aug, 1986 AltLd O/S
with Jim Dockery
with Jim Dockery
Derek Furze ??, 1986 AltLd
with Rick
with Rick
Derek Furze ??, 1986 AltLd
with Rick
with Rick
Mark Kemball 21 Aug, 1985 Lead
with Dave McCann
with Dave McCann
Martin Bennett 31 Oct, 1983 -
with RA
with RA
tapley 5 Aug, 1983 -
with John Sumner
with John Sumner
RichardMc ?Aug, 1983 AltLd
with Derek Walker
with Derek Walker
Hidden 4 Oct, 1980 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Darron ??, 1980 -
Hidden 14 Apr, 1979 AltLd
Steve Lewis ??, 1978 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1975 Lead
68 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 62
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 60
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set